Copper LP getting dark

[RattlerX]

I grabbed a can off the shelf at auto-zone
Rust-Oleum - Crystal Clear Enamel

Taped it up and sprayed a light coat....came back 20 minutes later and did it again...repeated a third time and let dry for a few hours in the sun. Worked like a charm both my new Copper veins looks day 1 new.

 

[ed101z]

You need to use it, not stare at it. Do you folks clear coat your cars?

This Copper Vein is absolutely GORGEOUS! I'd like for it to be coated and protected from oils and salts from my hands... before it starts the turning process. Also want a little protection from scuffs and marks as well.

Rattler... you got a picture of it?

 

[ed101z]

Been testing the Krylon on some items. I'm getting a Milky whitish color. Guess the humidity is to high.

 

[vapnmuse]

there is a great product called protectaclear from everbrite coatings. I have used it on copper mods and is not too expensive. Eventualy I will coat my brass rm2 and button cover but I cant be without my REO for A day!!!!!

 

[ed101z]

...you got a link?

I'm using some drippers until I can get this bedazzling beautiful piece of metal coated with something.

Would this be what you're talking about Vapnmuse?
https://www.everbritecoatings.com/cart/protectaclear-coating-only-c-7.html

 

[Raynman]

This seems to come up quite often, that's why my next reos will be black and I'm going to clear coat immediately. I don't want it to go changing colors on me. Clear coating metal? Really?

We're talking about a metal mixed in with powder coat paint.

Thanks, but I'm not taking any chances.

You need to use it, not stare at it. Do you folks clear coat your cars?

Most cars are clear coated anyway and unless you have very large hands I don't think you'll be holding a car in your hands. And this coming from someone who wants to clear coat black. All in good fun man all in good fun.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

You need to use it, not stare at it. Do you folks clear coat your cars?

Yes, almost all car paint jobs have a clear coat over the top of the base paint. The Copper vein is the one that reacts to our hand oils and changes color. The copper vein finish is not metal, it's paint, so the tricks for cleaning copper metal don't seem to work.

If you want it to stay showroom pretty, then clear coat it.

 

[Clark F]

Yeah, I just don't get it. I have a copper vein but I don't worry about it turning darker. It's a metal box, it's in my hand or in my murse ready to go. I drip at home so the reos is the road - take to work unit.

 

[ed101z]

Yes, almost all car paint jobs have a clear coat over the top of the base paint. The Copper vein is the one that reacts to our hand oils and changes color. The copper vein finish is not metal, it's paint, so the tricks for cleaning copper metal don't seem to work.

If you want it to stay showroom pretty, then clear coat it.

I'm wanting to bro. I'm wanting to. Just can't figure out what to use on this Reo.
Some say Minwax; some say Rust-Oleum; some say Clear Coat (which I think is Krylon).

After testing Krylon, I don't believe I'll be using that.

Damn, feels like I'm taking my baby to Surgery! All nervous and afraid of messing it up. And knowing me, IF F.U.B.A.R was a picture... it would have me under it!

 

[Clark F]

I guess I would understand if it was a woodvil to protect the wood. Nevermind, I'm confused.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I'm wanting to bro. I'm wanting to. Just can't figure out what to use on this Reo.
Some say Minwax; some say Rust-Oleum; some say Clear Coat (which I think is Krylon).

After testing Krylon, I don't believe I'll be using that.

Damn, feels like I'm taking my baby to Surgery! All nervous and afraid of messing it up. And knowing me, IF F.U.B.A.R was a picture... it would have me under it!

We are using "clear coat" as general process term not a specific product. Use what RattlerX did for yours. two biggest mistakes people make when spray painting is hold the can too close or putting too much on, both leads to runs, I've done both. Be patient and use more light coats like RattlerX did.

 

[vapnmuse]

edz101 thats it bro. watch the vids on the website. I coated 2 copper mods with it 3 months ago and they look brand new. If you happen to scratch the coating it can be removed with zylene in seconds and reapplied. I have refinished my mod after scratches started getting dark from patina. polish with the flitz and recoat, let it dry overnight and done.

 

[LarryPer]

I have one coming with a copper door
Just curious??
Its not real copper is it ?
Just copper paint?
Can I use wax on it instead of spray sealer?
If I did spray it , will it affect the door movement?

Thanks

 

[Filthy-Beast]

No wax will not work, I tried that and it still darkened,

 

[thewomenfolk]

Ummm....how do you put it down to dry it?

 

[ed101z]

Ummm....how do you put it down to dry it?

I personally won't be setting it on anything to let it dry - as I'm spraying. Rattler suggested an excellent idea about screwing an old Carto into the 510 connection. You'll then have a small handle to hold on to it while you're spray coating it. But as other suggested, use light coatings - one at a time - 6 inches away from the Reo. Don't overdo it with one heavy coat because you'll most likely get running.

I'll drill a small hole through the old Carto to allow to hang it using a wire... once I've finished the overall job.

 

[thewomenfolk]

Not being very handy with the drill, I suppose I'll use a fat flat piece of duct tape on the carto, then put a string thru that to hang it up. I love duct tape.

 

[built4feel]

I have one coming with a copper door
Just curious??
Its not real copper is it ?
Just copper paint?
Can I use wax on it instead of spray sealer?
If I did spray it , will it affect the door movement?

Thanks

I ordered one like this as well. I used Rust-o-leum Painter's touch 2X Ultra Cover Satin CLEAR...the day I got it. I taped up the flanges where it slides into the whole unit, and I used one coat. It has been doing great so far. I probably should have done more than 1 coat though, but it is doing fine....

 

[ed101z]

Ummm....how do you put it down to dry it?

Not being very handy with the drill, I suppose I'll use a fat flat piece of duct tape on the carto, then put a string thru that to hang it up. I love duct tape.

Thought I would update this since I did my Copper Vein yesterday evening. She looks OUTSTANDING!!! I noticed some things during the process that would’ve made it easier. I'll share them with everyone.

Helpful tools you’ll need: (some are optional)

• Carboard Box big enough to allow hands to go inside, and plenty of movement.
• Lamp or Work Light.
• An Old 510 Cartomizer with a hold drilled in it (on the end you put in your mouth)
• Masking tape (blue kind works better)

1) Before you even begin spraying your Reo, I recommend practicing on something you have lying around.

2) Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel works great!! Make sure to read the manufacturer’s directions before use about temperature and humidity. Hold the can 12 inches away from the Reo. Spraying in bursts works great because you want light, even coats as you rotate the Reo using the old Carto as a handle.

3) LINT- To help avoid LINT from getting on the fresh spray, get an empty cardboard box and lay it on the side. Set a lamp or work light in front of the box so you have good vision, and make sure you have plenty of elbow space so you can move your hands around inside the box as you're holding the Reo. I found the box to be helpful in both vision (light bounces off sides), and reducing LINT from getting on the fresh coating.

4) The old Cartomizer screwed in the 510 connection idea Rattler gave me works great. It acts like a turntable as your spraying. You can hold it certain directions and spray all sides evenly. Screw it in snugly to avoid it coming loose while you’re spraying.

* If you get the Rust-Oleum on the metal part of the 510 connection, and on the Magnets... don't sweat it. When it dries, you can take a razor blade to cut around it, and then scrap it off.

5) After spraying, I ROTATED mine slowly to keep the wet spray even, and to keep it from running. Rust-Oleum Enamel dries to the touch in 15 minutes, and to FULL handling in 30 minutes (I recommend an hour). Your hand may get tired after rotating it for 15 minutes. At this time, you can carefully insert a piece of wire through the hole on the Carto, and hang it on a nail to dry.

Note: I sprayed the inside, and outside of my Copper Vein. If you choose to do both, you'll need to remove the Battery; Battery Spring; Juice Bottle and Tube; little Black cover, and Fire button. Use the Blue masking tape to cover things you don't want to get sprayed.

To fill in the Holes: I used tweezers to push small, wet pieces of a paper towel into the holes.

Hope these tips help others that want to coat their Reo Grand with Rust-Oleum Enamel.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Thought I would update this since I did my Copper Vein yesterday evening. She looks OUTSTANDING!!! I noticed some things during the process that would’ve made it easier. I'll share them with everyone.

Helpful tools you’ll need: (some are optional)

• Carboard Box big enough to allow hands to go inside, and plenty of movement.
• Lamp or Work Light.
• An Old 510 Cartomizer with a hold drilled in it (on the end you put in your mouth)
• Masking tape (blue kind works better)

1) Before you even begin spraying your Reo, I recommend practicing on something you have lying around.

2) Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel works great!! Make sure to read the manufacturer’s directions before use about temperature and humidity. Hold the can 12 inches away from the Reo. Spraying in bursts works great because you want light, even coats as you rotate the Reo using the old Carto as a handle.

3) LINT- To help avoid LINT from getting on the fresh spray, get an empty cardboard box and lay it on the side. Set a lamp or work light in front of the box so you have good vision, and make sure you have plenty of elbow space so you can move your hands around inside the box as you're holding the Reo. I found the box to be helpful in both vision (light bounces off sides), and reducing LINT from getting on the fresh coating.

4) The old Cartomizer screwed in the 510 connection idea Rattler gave me works great. It acts like a turntable as your spraying. You can hold it certain directions and spray all sides evenly. Screw it in snugly to avoid it coming loose while you’re spraying.

* If you get the Rust-Oleum on the metal part of the 510 connection, and on the Magnets... don't sweat it. When it dries, you can take a razor blade to cut around it, and then scrap it off.

5) After spraying, I ROTATED mine slowly to keep the wet spray even, and to keep it from running. Rust-Oleum Enamel dries to the touch in 15 minutes, and to FULL handling in 30 minutes (I recommend an hour). Your hand may get tired after rotating it for 15 minutes. At this time, you can carefully insert a piece of wire through the hole on the Carto, and hang it on a nail to dry.

Note: I sprayed the inside, and outside of my Copper Vein. If you choose to do both, you'll need to remove the Battery; Battery Spring; Juice Bottle and Tube; little Black cover, and Fire button. Use the Blue masking tape to cover things you don't want to get sprayed.

To fill in the Holes: I used tweezers to push small, wet pieces of a paper towel into the holes.

Hope these tips help others that want to coat their Reo Grand with Rust-Oleum Enamel.

Excellent write up, thanks for sharing.