Now this may be the future of vaping.............Damn. That thing double as a room heater?
I've got one of these somewhere. Maybe I should wick it?
Looks convienent to me.....
Coppervape BF Mod
- Thread starter Layzee Vaper
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Looks convienent to me.....
I assemble the Switch in a slightly Different order then some, but it works Best for Me.
I put the 510 Pin/Insulator in 1st. Holding it in place by putting an Atomizer in the 510 threading. Then I put the Disk Insulator on the Bottle side of the 510 Pin.
Now I put the Contact Screw in the Long Side of the Transfer Bar/Spring and it is held in place by that Little Black O-Ring.
Then I place the 2nd Disk Insulator over the Switch Side Hole and put the Transfer Bar/Contact Screw assembly on the Bottle Side of the 510 Pin. Then I screw on the Bottle till it is just Finger Tight.
To get the Contact Screw centered on the Switch Hole, so you can start threading the Fire Button onto the Contact Screw, you need to Push Down on the transfer bar hump slightly. Now you can screw on the Fire Button on a few times which will hold Everything in place.
Now Turn the Fire Button until the Line on it is Parallel with the Long Side of the mod's Top Half. And then Gently Push the Fire Button all the way Down.
Now snug up the Contact Screw with a Flat Screw Driver.
At this point everything is Basically Assembled. But Not fully tightened. And you can test the Fire Button throw. And the Fire On/Off.
If everything feels Good, then Remove the Atomizer from the 510 Threading and with a Small Flat Screw Driver, GENTLY Tighten the 510 Pin while holding the Bottle. The 510 Pin Doesn't need to be Super Tight. Just Snug.
Now do the Same Thing for the Contact Screw. Tighten it till it feels Snug. And you feel that Black O-Ring Compressing. It Doesn't need to be Super Tight.
Give it one last Fire - On/Off Check and you should be Good To Go.
Hope this Helps. And if it does, you could Copy n' Past it to something Printable, then print it out and stick a copy of it in your Coppervape Box for future reference.
Thanks. I can't tell you how many times I've had this apart in the last year. I used some of a rebuild kit I recently purchased and specifically replaced the copper strip and switch-side oring. As such the oring started pushing through the larger of the two holes. Anyway, was looking for some direction on what was indeed 'right'. I'll have to reread this a couple times as I'm still a bit unclear being a visual learner. Thank you..
I take mine Completely apart and Clean Everything and Shine Up the Contact Points with a Scotch Brite pad about once a month. Maybe closer to every 6 weeks?
I think the Tech I listed is the Easiest. But some say that putting the Fire Button together 1st is the way to go.
There really Isn't a Right or Wrong way as long as it all goes back the together the way it came from Coppervape.
Yeah, I'm trying to see what the original setup order is...
Every four weeks I break the whole thing down and sand it with 800 then 1500 sand paper first lubed with ejuice I don't care for and then under running water. I lube all the electrical contacts with Dielectric grease also. Lastly, I'll go over her exterior with metal polish. Not sure why I'm having trouble this time.
She's all I use. I <3 her. lol
Every four weeks I break the whole thing down and sand it with 800 then 1500 sand paper first lubed with ejuice I don't care for and then under running water. I lube all the electrical contacts with Dielectric grease also. Lastly, I'll go over her exterior with metal polish. Not sure why I'm having trouble this time.
She's all I use. I <3 her. lol
zoiDman, when I follow your procedure (which is what I think I've always done) this new oring is squeezing through the whole in the new copper strip. Hence my self-doubt about the whole thing.
:dunno: I need to take a break from it. I'll try again later.
Thanks for writing this out! I printed it out and am saving for reference. Much appreciatedI assemble the Switch in a slightly Different order then some, but it works Best for Me.
I put the 510 Pin/Insulator in 1st. Holding it in place by putting an Atomizer in the 510 threading. Then I put the Disk Insulator on the Bottle side of the 510 Pin.
Now I put the Contact Screw in the Long Side of the Transfer Bar/Spring and it is held in place by that Little Black O-Ring.
Then I place the 2nd Disk Insulator over the Switch Side Hole and put the Transfer Bar/Contact Screw assembly on the Bottle Side of the 510 Pin. Then I screw on the Bottle till it is just Finger Tight.
To get the Contact Screw centered on the Switch Hole, so you can start threading the Fire Button onto the Contact Screw, you need to Push Down on the transfer bar hump slightly. Now you can screw on the Fire Button on a few times which will hold Everything in place.
Now Turn the Fire Button until the Line on it is Parallel with the Long Side of the Mod's Top Half. And then Gently Push the Fire Button all the way Down.
Now snug up the Contact Screw with a Flat Screw Driver.
At this point everything is Basically Assembled. But Not fully tightened. And you can test the Fire Button throw. And the Fire On/Off.
If everything feels Good, then Remove the Atomizer from the 510 Threading and with a Small Flat Screw Driver, GENTLY Tighten the 510 Pin while holding the Bottle. The 510 Pin Doesn't need to be Super Tight. Just Snug.
Now do the Same Thing for the Contact Screw. Tighten it till it feels Snug. And you feel that Black O-Ring Compressing. It Doesn't need to be Super Tight.
Give it one last Fire - On/Off Check and you should be Good To Go.
Hope this Helps. And if it does, you could Copy n' Past it to something Printable, then print it out and stick a copy of it in your Coppervape Box for future reference.
Thanks for writing this out! I printed it out and am saving for reference. Much appreciated
Hey No Problem Heartsdelight.
You might want to look at the Gorge for an RDA. Got one in route after a few mentioned it on another forum. I'm finding myself happy with a ChiNarda, Goon & Goon Lp clones, Velocity V2 clones (every so often). I'm usually running 0.5 - 0.1Ω net coil builds on those. I do so with caution minded. Seem to produce nice vaping.
I assemble the Switch in a slightly Different order then some, but it works Best for Me.
I put the 510 Pin/Insulator in 1st. Holding it in place by putting an Atomizer in the 510 threading. Then I put the Disk Insulator on the Bottle side of the 510 Pin.
Now I put the Contact Screw in the Long Side of the Transfer Bar/Spring and it is held in place by that Little Black O-Ring.
Then I place the 2nd Disk Insulator over the Switch Side Hole and put the Transfer Bar/Contact Screw assembly on the Bottle Side of the 510 Pin. Then I screw on the Bottle till it is just Finger Tight.
To get the Contact Screw centered on the Switch Hole, so you can start threading the Fire Button onto the Contact Screw, you need to Push Down on the transfer bar hump slightly. Now you can screw on the Fire Button on a few times which will hold Everything in place.
Now Turn the Fire Button until the Line on it is Parallel with the Long Side of the Mod's Top Half. And then Gently Push the Fire Button all the way Down.
Now snug up the Contact Screw with a Flat Screw Driver.
At this point everything is Basically Assembled. But Not fully tightened. And you can test the Fire Button throw. And the Fire On/Off.
If everything feels Good, then Remove the Atomizer from the 510 Threading and with a Small Flat Screw Driver, GENTLY Tighten the 510 Pin while holding the Bottle. The 510 Pin Doesn't need to be Super Tight. Just Snug.
Now do the Same Thing for the Contact Screw. Tighten it till it feels Snug. And you feel that Black O-Ring Compressing. It Doesn't need to be Super Tight.
Give it one last Fire - On/Off Check and you should be Good To Go.
Hope this Helps. And if it does, you could Copy n' Past it to something Printable, then print it out and stick a copy of it in your Coppervape Box for future reference.
I will need to try this method when next I clean up and repair one of my CVs. Sounds like it would help with some otherwise fumbling issues I run into on trying to put it all back together. Thanks.
I will need to try this method when next I clean up and repair one of my CVs. Sounds like it would help with some otherwise fumbling issues I run into on trying to put it all back together. Thanks.
The thing that makes it So Handy is that the Atomizer holds the 510 Pin in place during the Assembly process. Which makes One Less Thing to Align and to Hold Steady.
I actually Don't use an Atomizer. I use a CE2. But few anymore know what a CE2 is. And just about anything with a 510 Thread on it will work.
Well, I kind of recall the CE2's but only vaguely. I come along about the time the CE4's were being replaced by the CE5's. Did find a vendor selling CE2's. Kind of has piqued my squonking curiosity now. Might have to locate these a little more affordable, give them a try.
The CE2 does hold a Historical Significance in the evolution of vaping. Because they were the 1st "Clearo".
Albeit a Painful process of 3 Steps forward and 4 Steps back at times, they Did pave the way for New Generation of Atomizers.
As to trying them? Well... I guess you could? That is, if you're into trying something and then say'n...
"Holy Flinkering Snit. I Can't believe that things were So Bad back in the day! I'll NEVER Complain about anything New that I get. Because even the Worst Atomizer Today is about 10 Times Better than This!"
LOL
*chuckling* Well a person doesn't know until they try.
I did use Smok ARO, T-Dux up version 3 and even have T-Dux 4 tank. These were alright for me but then some Hank guy started seducing me into squonking and mech mods, Goons, Nardas. *chuckles* I now enjoy RDAs more than tanks I think. Still might be good to try something different.*chuckling* Well a person doesn't know until they try.
Guess I Can't Bag on someone for wanting to Try something New.
If you do get Ahold of some CE2's, LMK. And I'll let you know how to get them going.
Checking the pics on the Gorge, it looks interesting... single coil setup. I've yet to own a 24mm rda and must admit my testing backlog is growing.You might want to look at the Gorge for an RDA. Got one in route after a few mentioned it on another forum. I'm finding myself happy with a ChiNarda, Goon & Goon Lp clones, Velocity V2 clones (every so often). I'm usually running 0.5 - 0.1Ω net coil builds on those. I do so with caution minded. Seem to produce nice vaping.
80% of my vaping is mtl, hence the cyclone, little 16, viper, etc. Sort of a nic connoisseur at 12 mg, rotating vapertek, Carolina xtract, nude and hiliq throughout the week. I'll lung hit on occasion through the day, which is when the gorge would come out. My current favorite is the entheon, loving it. Have a armor 1.0 from FT and a pocket from the Philippines that I've yet to even try, also a haku phenom clone inbound which I hope doesn't disappoint. My $20 gift certificate at FT would probably swing me a gorge.
BTW magic mist, if you are the same from the bonkers thread 'over there', shoot me a pm and I'll make you an offer you can't refuse. I have something that might interest you.
cheers
You might want to look at the Gorge for an RDA. Got one in route after a few mentioned it on another forum. I'm finding myself happy with a ChiNarda, Goon & Goon Lp clones, Velocity V2 clones (every so often). I'm usually running 0.5 - 0.1Ω net coil builds on those. I do so with caution minded. Seem to produce nice vaping.
I will give a second recommendation for the Gorge. I own 2 an it has become my preferred RDA to run on Mechs.
Easy to build on, nice juice well, and for me the airflow is just right.
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