cutting the battery out of a 510 passthrough

[MIKEOUK]

i bought a 510 passthrough with a battery in line but it was really hit and miss, it worked, then just stopped, very frustrating. The other night (after about 8 bottles of stella) i decided it would be a good idea just to cut the battery bit out and join the wires, i didnt succeed, i cut the wires too near to the usb plug and didnt leave me enough to re attatch. I also have a faulty 901 passthrough which would not cut off, it just kept heating the atomiser, so i was thinking i could use the wire and usb plug from that and attatch it to the 510 passthrough. Is it as easy as that? does it matter which wire connects to which and will it work?

 

[Can_supplier]

All the passthrough is doing is taking the current from the USB port.

All you need is 2 leads, positive and negative. It is possible there will be 5 wires inside the main wire because the manufacture used a standard USP cable.

You will need to find positive and negative from the source USB, using a multimeter. Then connect it to the positive and negative of the PT.

Easiest case, both ends have 2 wires, one red and one black, connect like to like and be done.

Worse case, each end has 5 wires of different colour.. Then have fun guessing. Red and black are your best guesses.

Not having the batt won't matter, it will still work. However it may produce less vape, because the point of the battery was to act as a capacitor because the USB doesn't provide enough power alone to allow the 510 to run and full strength.

 

[bogiediver]

Attached is a diagram of the USB pins...

I'm skeptical about the: "However it may produce less vape, because the point of the battery was to act as a capacitor because the USB doesn't provide enough power alone to allow the 510 to run and (sic) full strength."

A typical 510 battery is about 3.7 volts - USB is 5 volts... seems to me the direct wire USB would be higher voltage...

But, I could be wrong...

-bogie

 

[ShadowWulf]

I was getting ready to try this myself with my Joye usb-passthrough, I didnt want the internal battery and i would like to be able to run it as close to 5v as possible.

The only thing stopping me atm is weather or not there might be enough current without the battery. Having a rather top of the line system ive built myself i have zero worry's about the usb ports or mobo burning out.

 

[Can_supplier]

Its all about ohms law and current, volts are just potential....

current (amps) = volts / resistance (constant for the device)

What the assumption is, is that your USB is short on amps to fully fire the device, and although you have higher volts, the lower amps may result in lower power watts.

watts = volts x amps

USB 2.0 is supposed to output 500ma. There isn't a lot of information because for anything you normally plug into the USB 500ma is almost overkill. To shawdow, you might want to find out what your USB puts out...

So using ohms law for the 510 at 5 volts (usb)

amps = 5 (volts) / 2.5 (ohms of a 510) = 2 amps
- therefor at 5 volts it wants to draw 2 amps but is limited to the output of the usb at 500 mA

So for power, you have watts = .5 amps x 5 volts = 2.5 watts

However using a 3.7 battery...

amps = 3.7 (volts) / 2.5 (ohms) = 1.48 amps
- in the case of the batt it can deliver 1.48 or greater amps...

So again for power you have watts = 1.48 amps X 3.7 volts = 5.48

As you see the battery at 3.7 volts gives out more power (watts) than the 5 volts USB at only .5 amps, which will give you more vape, almost twice as much 2.5 watts vs. 5.48 watts..

If you usb can put out 1 amp, at 5 volts that 5 watts, still less than the 3.7 batt..

Your usb has to put out 1.1 amps at 5 volts to be equal to the 3.7 volt batt.

 

[Shadowdr]

USB is supposed to by design supply 500ma. While it might be the case it also may not, it depends more on the motherboard. Many laptops, especially older ones cannot power even smaller devices because the power supply is barely up to par because of space constraints. A usb port is able to supply 1000ma easily as long as the mobo supports it and the power supply is up to the task, most these days are. On older mobo's more ma could be supplied but needed a request by software to accomplish this. This was done by the 2 wires in the center that identify the device as well as communicate with the software. The passthrough does not have these wires and it is why it is not identified as a device.

However if you do manage to cut out the battery box you will probably find that the switch does nothing and the power stays on to the atty as long as it is plugged in. That was the result in my case when I tried the same thing. It would seem that the manual switch may activate the battery box and not be a plain old current interrupt. It is also highly possible that the manual switch may not be capable of handling the 5 volts and burns it up on contact.

 

[Shadowdr]

Sorry for not answering the question you asked about the terminal oreintation. See here for the + and - sides. About half way down and to the right. positive should go to the center pole but as you ahve no way to know which is which, I would wire it one way and check it very quickly. I used the color coding on the wire itself to attach them and did not do a quick check. Live and learn.

 

[MIKEOUK]

hmmm,,,well the wires on the 510 passthrough are both black, the wires that were attatched to the 901 passthrough are black and red, i dont have a multi meter. Is it safe to try the red and black either way round on the 2 black wires from the 510? or is it likely to damage my computer? thats my concern

 

[caesar]

Check the black wires by connecting them to the battery to see the proper orientation then to the other USB cable.