Cyclone bf questions.
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Ooooh...not an easy question.
It takes two resistors (coils) although you can wrap two wires in tandem to accomplish the same thing.
The important thing to remember is that you need your two resistors to be twice (2x) the ohms of your final build. For instance...to get a 1 ohm dual coil you need to build two 2ohm coils.
I strongly recommend reading through this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...271-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th.html
There are lots of examples of the proper way to set up your coils.
It takes two resistors (coils) although you can wrap two wires in tandem to accomplish the same thing.
The important thing to remember is that you need your two resistors to be twice (2x) the ohms of your final build. For instance...to get a 1 ohm dual coil you need to build two 2ohm coils.
I strongly recommend reading through this thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...271-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th.html
There are lots of examples of the proper way to set up your coils.
Another question custom. Did you drill the center post just straight down the middle of screw it that part out of the bottom? I'm having issues of the bit not catching onto anything. I'm using a cordless which is making things tough.
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I followed turbocad's instructions here in post #67: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/492768-milled-catch-cups-oversized-atomizers-7.html
Straight dowm from the top. I used a brand new DeWalt 1/16th drill bit and an 18v DeWalt cordless drill. A decent quality bit that's new and sharp is a must.
Please take the time to read t-cad's post. It was extremely helpful.
Here's turbocad6's post from the other thread:
yeah, I drill from the top down through the threads when drilling by hand and from the bottom up on the drill press or mill. from the top down by hand you won't ruin the threads as long as you don't reach for... yeah... what he said
once you start the hole you won't damage the threads even if you touch them slightly with the bit. you could touch them a whole lot more than you'd think without affecting the functionality of the threads, hell you'd have to try really hard to damage them beyond use, just try to stay relatively straight and use the threads as your guide
1) mark and measure bit so you know when you're almost through and ease up at the end
2) firm pressure and as slow as possible
3) lube and a good bit. carbide or at least hss
most of the time the hardest thing is holding the post from spinning as you get deeper, def remove from atty if ss, brass you could try it in the atty if you really wanted to I guess, it might work but SS you def need to pop it out and clamp it better. I usually can pop it out with a bigger needle nose pliers, one jaw on the atty base off to one side of the 510 and the other right at the top of the post and squeeze, usually pops out without a problem. before removing it measure exactly where you want your feed hole I've done a few just above the deck but now I do them right at the deck level and the bottom of my feed hole extends slightly into the insulator. this allows as much suck back as possible, like the rm2, stock some of them are above the deck but then this doesn't suck back all excess and leaves a more wet deck, more excess fluid, I prefer as low as possible
I use a 1/16th bit, any smaller and you're really risking breaking it in ss without a drill press.
after the center hole you then hav to drill your side hole, drilling the side of a tiny round stainless steel cylinder is difficult even in a press but by hand it can be almost impossible, what I do is fire up the dremel with a cut off wheel and flatten out a spot on the side of the shaft where I want my hole. this will make the metal thinner there and also give you a flat spot that you can then center a drill on, you can actually open the hole all the way with just the cuttoff wheel too, wind up being more of a slot than a hole but works just as well
Picked up a cobalt bit at home Depot today. Still wouldn't catch and ended up breaking. I don't know what path to take now... It's pretty frustrating but I don't want to pay for the bf Cyclone just to use my afc cap on it if I don't have to.
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I share your frustration. I'd like to see a comprehensive guide from someone for drilling out the posts and air holes. I've gone through six bits just drilling air holes, only two of which survived the process. I hesitate to even consider drilling a post without a drill press (which is out of my budget at this time).
I've read through many of the threads covering this and have still had issues just with air holes.
I've read through many of the threads covering this and have still had issues just with air holes.
Assuming you're just trying to make them bigger, air holes are pretty easy with diamond needle files.
I'm trying to make the afc Cyclone a bottom feeder.
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Yep, sorry - that was aimed at Crash Moses. Still may not be even vaguely helpful, I'm not absolutely sure who's doing what any more...
Use cutting fluid! When you drill, all you need is enough pressure to get some flakes... take it nice and slow and let the bit do the work for you. Oh, and use cutting fluid! A drill press will make your life much easier in this case, but it could be done with a hand drill if you're careful. Put the bit as far into the drill as you can. Use a smaller bit, they sell bit sets that have a ton of tiny #50 - #80 bits in them for about $14.00 at my LHS. For the cyclone I'd drill from the top and clean/re-wet with cutting fluid often. Just a drop on the tip of the bit is all you need, if you use too much you'll have a heck of a time getting it off and getting the taste out.
Two biggest mistake made when drilling metal is too much pressure, let the bit do the work not your bicep. If the bit is breaking it's almost a given that you are pressing to hard. Pressing will not get the job done faster it will make it harder and will take longer. I typically just use the weight of the drill. Also switch bits often.
Go slow, very slow, I mean low rpms, If you generate heat in the bit you dull the bit quicker and risk hardening what your drilling. Use lots of cutting oil to cool things down. You want a drill with variable speed, not just a two speed switch. I put mine in low speed and then by changing the pressure on the switch I can go even slower. Full speed with the switch in slow or low is still too fast for drilling SS.
I end up drilling a lot of steel on my jeep, if doing larger holes start small and go in steps. It's much easier to drill a 1/16 and then expand to 5/64 that to drill the 5/64 to start.
I also prefer to use Cobolt drill bits with split points not brad points. Cobolt can take higher temps and stay sharper longer. Bosch CO2131 Cobalt Jobber Length Drill Bit, 1/16-Inch - Amazon.com
Go slow, very slow, I mean low rpms, If you generate heat in the bit you dull the bit quicker and risk hardening what your drilling. Use lots of cutting oil to cool things down. You want a drill with variable speed, not just a two speed switch. I put mine in low speed and then by changing the pressure on the switch I can go even slower. Full speed with the switch in slow or low is still too fast for drilling SS.
I end up drilling a lot of steel on my jeep, if doing larger holes start small and go in steps. It's much easier to drill a 1/16 and then expand to 5/64 that to drill the 5/64 to start.
I also prefer to use Cobolt drill bits with split points not brad points. Cobolt can take higher temps and stay sharper longer. Bosch CO2131 Cobalt Jobber Length Drill Bit, 1/16-Inch - Amazon.com
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I'll drill it out for you if you wanna ship just the center pin to me. Just throwin' it out there.
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