Dear Odysseus... why do you hate me? (Leaking)

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Lonely^Driver

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I'm sure I've said it before but I always get some leakage after refilling.

I always take my Odysseus off my mod and refill, then stand it on some paper towel for 30 to 60 seconds, I think about 5 or so drops comes out.

I then give it a suck and put back on my mod, vapes perfect till next refill.

I take it off my mod because I dont want the juice dripping into the adaptors.

To minimise wastage on refill, what I did was I will close off the juice control and vape till my wick is almost dry (can tell by the slight burnt taste), then refill. After refilling and screwing on the top cap, I will tilt my odysseus horizontally 90 degrees and start to 'suck' a little. This is to allow the the liquid that has collected at the center post to flow to the dry wick.

This method helps me save a little on the wastage of liquid.
 

Shaitaan

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i sent you a pm about the filling proceedure...doing it differently usually causes excess pressure inside the Ody and will cause leakage... I usually take mine apart in the reverse order so I know it's going to go together the same way every time when I need to fill 'er up :) Imeo's correct about the 'guts' assembly via Scott's video.....dont wrap the wires at all, just pass through the groove down, and along the inside 'post/threads', let the parts hold it in place...for both wires...that way, with the wires not wrapped around for connection, the assy will seat itself further down in the endcap and you'll have a better seal with the o-rings inside the 510 connection... the ground wire, will be secure when you tighten down the connection ring around the ceramic base...
 

loft

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i sent you a pm about the filling proceedure...doing it differently usually causes excess pressure inside the Ody and will cause leakage... I usually take mine apart in the reverse order so I know it's going to go together the same way every time when I need to fill 'er up :) Imeo's correct about the 'guts' assembly via Scott's video.....dont wrap the wires at all, just pass through the groove down, and along the inside 'post/threads', let the parts hold it in place...for both wires...that way, with the wires not wrapped around for connection, the assy will seat itself further down in the endcap and you'll have a better seal with the o-rings inside the 510 connection... the ground wire, will be secure when you tighten down the connection ring around the ceramic base...

So instead of winding it around the post 2x like Scott suggests, just stick it in there and snip?
 

Shaitaan

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exactly.....I didnt wind it at all and have had no leakage as long as I follow the filling steps as well...just make sure the wire is laying in the same direction as the threads so when you tighten it on it doesnt bunch up/loosen and actually tightens slightly

edit: i do the same thing with my iatty, but then that unit is a totally different animal itself... I find them to be more prone to leaking than the ody...
 
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imeothanasis

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The only difference is the positive wire loft. You screw the big nut that secures the rebuildable part in the Ody base without catching the positive wire with this nut. So if you cut the positive wire a little shorter in a way that the nut cant catch but the wire is still touching the nut, you would be ok
Could you elaborate on the steps you explained?
 

Shaitaan

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another thing to check is your connector assembly....make sure the nut holding the 'guts' to it is snug up against the connector, if it's loose, there's another chance of juice flowing down through too... it's also possible that the delrin or whatever plastic it is, may be worn down a bit from the pin moving up and down over time. if it's ok, you should still feel some resistance from the pin moving inside the plastic, it should be snug but still be free enough to move easily..since I know you have a used GGTS that' you're using, you may want to pick up a new assembly as they're in stock at CoV...and they are cheap enough...
 
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fright88

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Have you tried a second o-ring on the pin below the posative nut? Also looks like some people have had sucess with an o-ring on the ceramic housing between the base and the negative wire nut. Or you can put one kinda in the same place but instead of putting it on before the threaded ring slip it over after everything is tightened down.
 
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