- Status
a pipe cutter and a wooden rod...
but on mine i just used a sharp blade and flattened it out with fine grit sandpaper...
see post above yours for sample.
but on mine i just used a sharp blade and flattened it out with fine grit sandpaper...
see post above yours for sample.
What size syringe should I get at tractor supply? I'm sure I can just eye up the right size but any specifics?
i cant remember what i used, i bought it so long ago... i think it was a 12ml tyco syringe
maybe someone else will chime in with a better answer.
maybe someone else will chime in with a better answer.
i am so jealous
i used the drill bit method too in combination with the rolling paper method. i think my DUD hates me and doesnt want me to vape lol
..hilarious signature line btw lol
i know that IB tanked makes custom pyrex tubes for RBAs. im not sure if the syringe is a preferred material but just wanted to share and offer what little help i can.
xMackx, I have wanted to drill the wick hole for fatty slivers of cotton as well, but I need to spend some time googling & pondering a bit more. I hope to find a stainless grommet type thingy with top hat type shoulder (maybe threaded or press fit). A 4mm drill hole for cotton with a fitting inserted to reduce the hole smaller for mesh would be nice
Here is a video I made of my Griffin Dud 'ja-ma'call-it forced air induction vapor production test/shootup/showdown!
(just kidding each hole set up vapes nice & every1 has preferences for a personal favorite[no shooting down needed
best seen in full screen HD
I dig my three 0.5ish mm airhole dud set up best
Here is my youtube description:
After watching that if you have a computer that can handle it. HERE is a side-by-side-over-the-top mashup page I set up. The controls on that page are sometimes slow or freeze(just hit reload) due to multiple video @ once pipeline overload. They will likely load sloppy for most [on the first run]. As soon as you can hit "the master stop button(3rd button) & then the fourth button to reload them just to the right place then hit play(button 1) & enjoy(I hope). [If your chips can handle it do not forget to set the player to full HD
[Adjust sound as needed]
Bonus! video: For a detailed "making of" the apparatus look in my youtube channel
I am enjoying my new DIY E venom soo muchI made a label out of an dragon image I crafted a while ago.
(looks nice even small.[big is awesome])
WOW. wow. wow. that is some incredible vape pr0n. i cannot wait to be that good at building coils so i can get me some of that! good lord that vapor production is amazing.
building or wrapping coils is easy, understanding and mastering the fine art of getting a wick oxidized properly is the hard part. Once you "get it" tho it is simple and then you can really start to experiment and perfect yer vape.
Kemosabe, when my wicks are not oxidized enough & do a soft short out on the mesh, they most often do so where the wire first touches(on top or bottom & not ever for me in the middle). I can tell by seeing the actual mesh (& not just the dry burning wire) glow when it happens. that may or may not be of assistance now, but it is good to know to look for.
I B a left E too
My griffin/dud is sad with the plug screw in too & you have that taken care of.
The dud-type unit I used in my vapor shootup ran like a dream & I do not loose grip of my ego(pun intended) to admit two days before I set it down in frustration of multiple attempts to get it to vape how nicely I knew it had in the past. A couple of days later & my mind &/or touch was back in order just right on first attempt.
I do advise to not have any legs or as little as possible on these tiny units. Once the top is ready to go on, they should be gone for safety. If that neg wire touched the + post a spot weld @ best could be the outcome.
I can not see much detail in your image. Hopefully someone with better eyes may see something I may be blind to or you have a eurekaof some sort.
I do hope you get it sorted soon
first off, sorry for so many posts in a row. i hope its not an issue for anyone.
just wanted to say that i plan on getting a better picture of my coil very soon. i swear it doesnt look ugly. to me it looks just like you guy's coils. but i bet with your experienced eyes youd (hopefully) spot my problem straight away. i feel like i am so close to getting it right.
seeign how its possible that its my wick thats creating the short, im going to try a build on silica just to see if it works. that way i can eliminate 1 variable.
thanks everybody for your help, i really appreciate it. i know its not the funnest thing in the world to help out a newbie. :/
I think that you will find that the coil will hit almost perfectly with silica. Most any issue with a genesis style atomizer use ss mesh comes down to the wick. It just take practice, most of the folks on here who can make a wick and coil in minutes without issues have just gone through enough trial and error until we got a system that works. You should eventually "just get it" and then you will be off to the races. Keep at it.
i used the torch until red then quench method. but i understand that some folks do not quench. maybe i should try the non-quench method to see if that works for me. which method do you think has a greater liklihood of working?
thank you spraintz. you are giving me hope yet!! i refuse to give up.
I never ever quench, heating to the super red hot state has a tendency to "over-oxidize" the wick making it harder to avoid shorts(especially with 34g or 36g). All quenching really does is make the wick stiffer and makes the SS and subsequently the "oxidized layer" more brittle and fragile.
A light torching just so the SS changes color to a dark brown and some juice burns should be more than enough. Again, this is something that needs to be worked out over time and some T/E until you can some continuous success then you will see just how easy it is.
I look back at when I first started and laugh at how hard I thought it was and what a waste of dough for some good atomizers but now I can do a fresh wick and coil and wick in minutes on any of my atomizers.
A light torching just so the SS changes color to a dark brown and some juice burns should be more than enough. Again, this is something that needs to be worked out over time and some T/E until you can some continuous success then you will see just how easy it is.
I look back at when I first started and laugh at how hard I thought it was and what a waste of dough for some good atomizers but now I can do a fresh wick and coil and wick in minutes on any of my atomizers.
Kemosabe,
Man it seems you are having trouble..left and right. Before I tell you how to make the wick and the coil.... make sure that the DUD is completely tightened. I have a feeling that your bases aren't tightened all the way. You want the top and bottom bases to be completely tightened and the bottom screw on the positive post to be completely tightened down, or else you will have a positive post that will keep turning and moving....which will cause big shifts in your ohms.
Ok, lets do the KISS method....keep it simple...to make your wick roll it up as tight as possible....the ticker the wick the better. Then torch it in halves. Over preparing your wick is actually bad so don't over torch it. Torch until it gets red hot and keep torching for 15 seconds. Then do the other half. Add some liquid and flame burn three times. Your wick is ready. All this should take about 7-8 minutes.
Now to wrapping the coil. Don't prepare the kanthal wire in any way....you want it to be springy. Get your wire and simply wrap it around the wick directly. Don't apply to much tension when wrapping the wire. Do 4 or 5 compact and even wraps. When done the coil should move up and down the wick pretty easily. Put the wick in the wick hole. Move the coil to the correct position. Wrap the bottom lead around the negative screw clockwise and then tighten the screw. With one finger push the wick as close to the positive post and then wrap the top lead counter clockwise on the positive screw and tighten. Now you need to adjust the coils. For that look at zenesis video at provape. He'll teach you how to perfectly adjust you coils. Once you adjust the coils, add liquid in the tank, and do five 10 seconds dry hits while pointing the atty towards the ground. This will completely season your coils and stabilize them. after this You're first hit will taste awesome.
Man it seems you are having trouble..left and right. Before I tell you how to make the wick and the coil.... make sure that the DUD is completely tightened. I have a feeling that your bases aren't tightened all the way. You want the top and bottom bases to be completely tightened and the bottom screw on the positive post to be completely tightened down, or else you will have a positive post that will keep turning and moving....which will cause big shifts in your ohms.
Ok, lets do the KISS method....keep it simple...to make your wick roll it up as tight as possible....the ticker the wick the better. Then torch it in halves. Over preparing your wick is actually bad so don't over torch it. Torch until it gets red hot and keep torching for 15 seconds. Then do the other half. Add some liquid and flame burn three times. Your wick is ready. All this should take about 7-8 minutes.
Now to wrapping the coil. Don't prepare the kanthal wire in any way....you want it to be springy. Get your wire and simply wrap it around the wick directly. Don't apply to much tension when wrapping the wire. Do 4 or 5 compact and even wraps. When done the coil should move up and down the wick pretty easily. Put the wick in the wick hole. Move the coil to the correct position. Wrap the bottom lead around the negative screw clockwise and then tighten the screw. With one finger push the wick as close to the positive post and then wrap the top lead counter clockwise on the positive screw and tighten. Now you need to adjust the coils. For that look at zenesis video at provape. He'll teach you how to perfectly adjust you coils. Once you adjust the coils, add liquid in the tank, and do five 10 seconds dry hits while pointing the atty towards the ground. This will completely season your coils and stabilize them. after this You're first hit will taste awesome.
After over oxidizing several wicks, when I first started, I've settled on sort of an unusual way of oxidizing them after rolling. I very gently insert my new wick in the chuck of a variable speed drill. It doesn't have to be snugged up much to hold it. Then, while the drill is rotating, I move the flame of my BernzOmatic mini torch back and forth across the wick, heating it evenly to a cherry red, not bright orange. If it's orange, it's too hot. With the wick rotating, it lessens the chance of overheating any areas on the wick. This heating only needs to be done once. I don't quench it in water. After torching, I put a few drops of juice along the wick, and light it. I do this 3 or 4 times. Remove the wick from the drill chuck. The very end of the wick, which was inserted in the drill chuck isn't oxidized. But it doesn't need to be. This is the end that goes into the tank. The part that's in the tank doesn't need oxidation. The only part that needs to be oxidized, is under the coil, and through the wick hole in the atty.
Kemosabe, it looked more than good , in the image you linked to I simply have "getting old" eyesight & am due to see an optometrist. Sometimes I quench to quicken the mesh process, but I am pretty sure spraintz is spot on with his info that it mainly hardens the steel. My bad "lay it away for another day" mesh build days could be due to cold quenching. I likely need to quit quenching & rushing to finish the mesh part of the fun
Post as much as you need, because your safety & all your mini did clone Q are what ECF & this thread are for.
Did anyone watch the mashup multiplier page?LINK HERE!, I made the long full dud shootup video so that i could cut it up & splice it into a see all 4 units @ once in a side by side, to see the vortexes & density type side of stuff.
I did make another run #2 from a tad bit farther back & need to inspect & work the footage. I figure they could be useful to some degree for anyone looking to drill a dud into line
, in the image you linked to I simply have "getting old" eyesight & am due to see an optometrist. Sometimes I quench to quicken the mesh process, but I am pretty sure spraintz is spot on with his info that it mainly hardens the steel. My bad "lay it away for another day" mesh build days could be due to cold quenching. I likely need to quit quenching & rushing to finish the mesh part of the fun Post as much as you need, because your safety & all your mini did clone Q are what ECF & this thread are for.
Did anyone watch the mashup multiplier page?LINK HERE!, I made the long full dud shootup video so that i could cut it up & splice it into a see all 4 units @ once in a side by side, to see the vortexes & density type side of stuff.
I did make another run #2 from a tad bit farther back & need to inspect & work the footage. I figure they could be useful to some degree for anyone looking to drill a dud into line
Just FYI Kemosabe,
Like Spraintz, I had a really hard time at first and look back on it and wonder how I made it so difficult on myself. I can't even tell you what I'm doing different now because I'm not really sure but I can get a really good wick/coil set up now in just a few minutes. When I first started I would burn, burn and burn some more. Then I would quench, quench and quench some more. Tried many different wires and many different methods. Now I barely think about it and just do it. Just make sure your problem isn't something other than your wick or coil so that your not spending so much time trying to fix something that isn't broken. A few helpful hints, (repeated)
If your atty has soft insulators at the top and bottom of center pole then replace them with a harder material if you can. If not then get yourself some Teflon tape and wrap center pole where the insulators would go and then slide the soft insulators over it. This will help keep the center pole from moving and getting too close to the body of the tank which will cause shorts.
Get a drill bit or something similar that fits into the wick hole. I like to use a bit that is slightly smaller than the wick hole. Wrap your coil around the bit and attach it like you normally would. Remove the bit and season your coil a few times.
Slide your wick into the coil. If your wick won't slide in easily then make it smaller. If your wick seems too small after its in place then loosen the wire from the top of the center pole, hold the top of your wick with one hand and pull the wire to get it snug against your coil. I make very dense wicks so its easier for me to do this. If your wick has a large opening then put something inside the hole (paper clip, needle, etc.) so that you don't deform your wick when pulling the wire.
Once this is done then test your set up dry. Do not add any liquid until all of the coils fire evenly.
It's more important that your wire be in contact with the center pole than just being trapped by the two nuts. I like to have about 3/16" of wire extending past the nut. It makes it easier to make corrections later if you need it. I fold the leftover (up or down, it doesn't matter) and that helps keep the coil stable.
Like Spraintz, I had a really hard time at first and look back on it and wonder how I made it so difficult on myself. I can't even tell you what I'm doing different now because I'm not really sure but I can get a really good wick/coil set up now in just a few minutes. When I first started I would burn, burn and burn some more. Then I would quench, quench and quench some more. Tried many different wires and many different methods. Now I barely think about it and just do it. Just make sure your problem isn't something other than your wick or coil so that your not spending so much time trying to fix something that isn't broken. A few helpful hints, (repeated)
If your atty has soft insulators at the top and bottom of center pole then replace them with a harder material if you can. If not then get yourself some Teflon tape and wrap center pole where the insulators would go and then slide the soft insulators over it. This will help keep the center pole from moving and getting too close to the body of the tank which will cause shorts.
Get a drill bit or something similar that fits into the wick hole. I like to use a bit that is slightly smaller than the wick hole. Wrap your coil around the bit and attach it like you normally would. Remove the bit and season your coil a few times.
Slide your wick into the coil. If your wick won't slide in easily then make it smaller. If your wick seems too small after its in place then loosen the wire from the top of the center pole, hold the top of your wick with one hand and pull the wire to get it snug against your coil. I make very dense wicks so its easier for me to do this. If your wick has a large opening then put something inside the hole (paper clip, needle, etc.) so that you don't deform your wick when pulling the wire.
Once this is done then test your set up dry. Do not add any liquid until all of the coils fire evenly.
It's more important that your wire be in contact with the center pole than just being trapped by the two nuts. I like to have about 3/16" of wire extending past the nut. It makes it easier to make corrections later if you need it. I fold the leftover (up or down, it doesn't matter) and that helps keep the coil stable.
Kemosabe, it looked more than good
Post as much as you need, because your safety & all your mini did clone Q are what ECF & this thread are for.
Did anyone watch the mashup multiplier page?LINK HERE!, I made the long full dud shootup video so that i could cut it up & splice it into a see all 4 units @ once in a side by side, to see the vortexes & density type side of stuff.
I did make another run #2 from a tad bit farther back & need to inspect & work the footage. I figure they could be useful to some degree for anyone looking to drill a dud into line
I just had a great idea... I think lol. Mister-E you should make a clear plastic top to your did clone with the same basic shape/dimensions and drill air holes with your plugs. That way you can study the vortex of vapor and the effects of air hole placement. I want to try it myself. It would also make a great video.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
