Did Clone Tutorial (genesis style)

[MISTer E]

Gdeal said this

Mister E nice production on your post.... It would be interesting to see how the vape swirls in the chamber with different hole configurations. Not sure in the plastic would hold or melt, but it would be cool.

& it started my quest to see air vortexes with more than my mind.

I figured I better first do a sure thing mashup shootup so as not to get frustrated & then attempt revisit the hard to glimpse chamber of secrets later.

Now xMackx caused a bonus ending to round #2

4 griffin/dud airhole shootup Mashup multiplier page HERE

This six atomizer video mashup page includes my new (still in testing) ViVi nova ceramic mod & a griffin/dud 3 air hole cap with a "Spin E" coil mod. I found it interesting my theories are apparently seen about the quick heat up of the "Spin E" coil. The Nova mod vapes like a dragon & has the most dragon-like plume, dense & free flowing like m

 

[xMackx]

Gdeal said this & it started my quest to see air vortexes with more than my mind.

I figured I better first do a sure thing mashup shootup so as not to get frustrated & then attempt revisit the hard to glimpse chamber of secrets later.

Now xMackx caused a bonus ending to round #2

4 griffin/dud airhole shootup Mashup multiplier page HERE

This six atomizer video mashup page includes my new (still in testing) ViVi nova ceramic mod & a griffin/dud 3 air hole cap with a "Spin E" coil mod. I found it interesting my theories are apparently seen about the quick heat up of the "Spin E" coil. The Nova mod vapes like a dragon & has the most dragon-like plume, dense & free flowing like m

That is really cool Mister-E, and thank you for doing a video. Was that a plastic e-juice bottle you used for the atomizer cap/air intake? Now I will have to make one when I can. It looks like a great way to experiment with multiple air inlets and see them in action without having it done permanently.

 

[gdeal]

MISTer E

Very interesting vids. Great Bonus round demonstration. I always wonder what is really happening in side that chamber. The vortex created was very clear.

Do you think you will get the same effect with suction vs. forcing air in?

 

[MISTer E]

Thanks every1 for the kinds words. My next reel is long & is much more words than video, but is more like an unfolding toward possible discoveries found within the vapor chamber. The YT video description has my final words up to now. I shall hopefully one day revisit, but I need to sleep on it for a while to let my subconsciousness chew on what tiny bits that have been gained for a bit. Lighting focus & set up need to be worked out as well.

Was that a plastic e-juice bottle you used for the atomizer cap/air intake?

Answer begins @ about 3:35 in the vid.

Do you think you will get the same effect with suction vs. forcing air in?

I do think air pressure in the chamber maybe is different in some way(I am working from largely in total ignorance on such science, that all has likely been done by meteorologists, but forced induction was the best I could do for now.

Side note:Glass would be need to use lungs. It would be cool to have a glass dud dome replica, but I doubt I can budget it any time soon, because soo much daily use vapeware! such as atomizers parts & battery mods have my eye more. One day I hope to continue.

I know its a lot of words, but I wanted to document my processes largely to make my mind be able to return more completely to the scene when I revisit it one day.

 

[xMackx]

I figured out what it was made of after i seen the nozzle on your vapor dome lol. Very interesting stuff, I think making a vortex of vapor probably works best, rather than one big air hole which seems to cool the coil more and slows down vapor production (just a guess).

That would be cool to see an all glass atomizer with positive/negative wires embedded. Of course there would have to be metal parts, positive/negative coil posts and battery connector.

 

[motelgrim]

Well after many tries with using ss mesh, I have just started to convert my did to cotton. Still needs some perfecting, but I have had much better luck with cotton out of any wick material so far.

I figured I would put my experience into a journal on here so maybe it may help others after I sort everything out.

Glad it's not just me. I've been using cotton in my phoenix since I got it. I was intending on using mesh in some fashion but didn't have the cash and cotton was working so well it wasn't a big deal.

I just got the DID mini clone, some mesh and some more 28awg kanthal. After making 5 wicks and coils for the thing, I never got it to wick juice up the wick vertically. If I left the juice hole screw off and layed it down between vapes, juice would leak into the airchamber and vape fine but not with just the mesh, vertically. Then I asked someone and they said you gotta do the Genesis Tilt when you vape which sucks if you ask me.

Basically, I'm going from being able to vape a different juice every 10 drops if I want *and* having awesome vapor to having mesh where I am stuck with one juice basically *and* have to futz with the thing and tilt it *and*, to be honest, the vapor wasn't nearly as voluminous as with the cotton.

Yeah, I'll stick to cotton. I'll do a thread on how I use cotton in the DID later but I basically do the method in this video insofar as the coil goes:
Phoenix Rebuildable Atomizer - YouTube!
then stand it up like a normal mesh and send both ends of the yarn around clockwise to just before the mesh. And I leave the screw in the tank hole.
Works far better, imho.

 

[motelgrim]

ive been using SS mesh/ cotton in 3 of my phoenixs and its been absolutely amazing. i have a DID clone and an AGA on the way and i plan to use only SS mesh. unless i have problems, wich i dont plan on having.

remember, LESS is more. you shouldnt have to tilt your mod ever. if you do, then its not wicking. i use #400 mesh and 28 - 32 g kanthal. all i can say is SS can take some major wattage and not taste burnt. its awesome. im vaping juices at 10.5 watts that normally would taste burnt with anything past 7 watts

*THIS* is what I wanted to hear. I understand that under some circumstances where you are running .8 ohms, a bored ouy airhole, etc that you can really run through some liquid and some wicks might have a time keeping up but come on...the idea that all genesis style attys have to be tilted sounds like accepted user error to me. Yeah, ss tastes really clean but the minimal taste I get on cotton the first couple pulls is well worth the simplicity and ability to drip a different liquid when the last one has dried up and the 100% saturation *guarantee*.
I'll make a dense wick and see how that goes and if it doesn't cut the mustard, it's back to cotton for me.

*UPDATE*
I made a much more dense coil, using roughly an inch (?) or so wide of mesh, rolled it to death till it fit.
It wicks vertically now but not like dripping on cotton wick though. Cotton is still better insofar as wicking goes. Maybe I'll drill out the holes as well.....hmmm

 

[motelgrim]

i cant figure out why my vapor production is so low. im using the vulcan rba
Vulcan (DID Clone) - Rebuildable Atomizer Tank (Clear Tank)
ive got 32awg kenthal and #400 mesh 2" x 1 1/8" size. i oxidized and quenched the wick in both water and VG.
the coil is wrapped around the wick 6 times. it was 2.5 ohms at first, then it fluctuated wildly including giving me OP messages on my provari, then it settled in on 1.6ohms (this is all while not adjusting the coil at all). im running it at 3.9 volts currently, but ive gone from 3.3 to 4.3 searching for the sweet spot to no avail.
the flavor and TH is great, but my clouds are small. should i just not expect big plumes or am i doing something wrong?

I'm just now starting to go over this thread but your clouds are small because you are probably screwing the cap on all the way. The hole doesn't line up with the wick, out of the box (why!??!) I made a mark on the body where the wick is so I can align the hole over the wick. Anywhere else, and its all throathit and no vapor.

My guess...

 

[motelgrim]

I just drilled another hole vertical below the factory one, and you are right it's better to have more smaller holes rather than one big one. Creates a better vape with better air flow. It's different because it almost feels too airy but vapes big clouds of vapor. It's not like some systems that need a tight draw to suck juice up the wick. I think you're on to something Mister-E. That would be cool to drill holes symmetric all around and fill them with machine skrews so we could experiment with our airflow, I think I'll try that with my next did or phoenix clone.

I like the machine sCrew [ ] idea myself. I wish I had a second cap to drill holes all in it symmetrically, plug them then unplug specific ones to try better air shapes.

 

[motelgrim]

thanks for your help guys. im watching the rolling paper method video right now.

i built a new coil last night. had a heck of a time building one that didnt short out immediately. finally almost an hour later i got one built, is was 2.3ohms. and it stayed 2.3 ohms for the rest fo the evening and this morning. then out of nowhere, it shorted. so i put it down and now i picked it back up and its back running again but its 2.8ohms. no biggie, i just upped the volts. then i started gettign metallicy tasting hits (dry hits?), so i tested the ohms and its back down now at 2.4ohms. the taste is good at 4.2v, but the vapor is paltry. if i up the volts, all i get is metallicy tasting hits.
how can i get my vapor production up?
maybe my wick is too dense...i could try less mesh if that might work(?).
i left my fill screw out because i heard thats better for air flow and wicking, but maybe i should try putting it in.
also, id like stop my coil from shorting out. do you think my wick needs more oxidization? ive torched and quenched it about a half dozen times at this point, but i'll do anyhting to get this darn thing working for me. im having a hell of a time over here. any help will be geratly appreciated.

I think you're overworking things. All I've been doing is:
*Cut the mesh, fold 1/16 of the long edge over onto itself (this will be the edge on the *out*side of the wick)
*Torch the mesh entirely once. Wait 5 seconds, torch again, wait 5, torch again.
*Roll mesh starting from the non-folded edge, rolling TO the folded edge rolling it tight and using lots of pressure until it fits the hole.
*Once it's rolled, I hold it still and take a lighter to it to *set* that shape. It tends to unroll a lot if I don't
*Apply juice to wick, set on fire with lighter.Repeat 3 times.
That's *it*.

On a side note:
It seems that the amount of mesh used to make the coil made the biggest difference for me in my wicking issues.
I was using maybe 3/4" x however long the griffin is + coil area at first.
Using a good inch wide piece and rolling it to death until it fit the hole resulted in wicking vertically and not having to tilt.
Tilting results in better vapor, though. And I'll probably still go back to cotton wick and not use the tank at all.

 

[motelgrim]

xMackx, I have wanted to drill the wick hole for fatty slivers of cotton as well, but I need to spend some time googling & pondering a bit more. I hope to find a stainless grommet type thingy with top hat type shoulder (maybe threaded or press fit). A 4mm drill hole for cotton with a fitting inserted to reduce the hole smaller for mesh would be nice

---

Here is a video I made of my Griffin Dud 'ja-ma'call-it forced air induction vapor production test/shootup/showdown!
(just kidding each hole set up vapes nice & every1 has preferences for a personal favorite[no shooting down needed ] )
best seen in full screen HD

I dig my three 0.5ish mm airhole dud set up best , so far the flavors seem come forth best maybe from vortex swirling & more evenly cooled but warm (not hot) vapor. Just the right draw for m

This video is GREAT. So the small holes looked like it produced the same as the large hole except with the large hole you could see the vapor falling versus the 3 holes flying out at pressure. At least that's how it looks to me.

 

[Kevin King]

ive never been so damn frustrated in my life. im literally about to throw this DID out my window into the oncoming train. E1 errors amd hotspots on the top coil every single time. so ridiculous im about to give up and stick with my ikenvape attys. wasted about a week of my time trying to vape this thing and its not happening

 

[xMackx]

ive never been so damn frustrated in my life. im literally about to throw this DID out my window into the oncoming train. E1 errors amd hotspots on the top coil every single time. so ridiculous im about to give up and stick with my ikenvape attys. wasted about a week of my time trying to vape this thing and its not happening

Well don't throw it away, when you get frustrated put it away and come back later when you're feeling lucky. There are a lot things you can still do with it if you can't get the mesh to work. I'm vaping on mine right now actually, even though I converted it to cotton it's working great.

 

[Kevin King]

i just dont understand what im doing wrong. i can build a perfect SS/cotton hybrid in my phoenixs, but i cant for the life of me build a working coil on the DID. i foreal cant even explain how frustrating it gets.

 

[motelgrim]

i just dont understand what im doing wrong. i can build a perfect SS/cotton hybrid in my phoenixs, but i cant for the life of me build a working coil on the DID. i foreal cant even explain how frustrating it gets.

Are you trying the rolling paper method? Since using that, my shorting issues have vanished. Still the occasional hot coil at top going into the center post but shortening that fixes it most of the time.
When I wrap the coil around the wick, I orientate the coil like this if you're looking down at it.

O--------
|. *
|

This way, I move the bottom wire to the right and under the negative post (the " . ")and bring the top wire UNDER the center post ( the " * ").
That said, I removed one of the nuts off the center post and replaced it with a spring with a washer on top of it. Now I never have to loosen anything. I just pull the washer down a bit and slide the wire between the washer and top nut.

As of today, I've abandoned ss mesh as a wicking alternative. It just doesn't wick as much fluid as cotton does and I'm pretty much uninterested in tanking one flavor all day anymore. I'd rather drip every 30 mins or so.
If interested, let me know and I'll refer you to my coil/cotton setup.

 

[xMackx]

Are you trying the rolling paper method? Since using that, my shorting issues have vanished. Still the occasional hot coil at top going into the center post but shortening that fixes it most of the time.
When I wrap the coil around the wick, I orientate the coil like this if you're looking down at it.

O--------
|. *
|

This way, I move the bottom wire to the right and under the negative post (the " . ")and bring the top wire UNDER the center post ( the " * ").
That said, I removed one of the nuts off the center post and replaced it with a spring with a washer on top of it. Now I never have to loosen anything. I just pull the washer down a bit and slide the wire between the washer and top nut.

As of today, I've abandoned ss mesh as a wicking alternative. It just doesn't wick as much fluid as cotton does and I'm pretty much uninterested in tanking one flavor all day anymore. I'd rather drip every 30 mins or so.
If interested, let me know and I'll refer you to my coil/cotton setup.

You should post your setup for your did with cotton.

 

[motelgrim]

You should post your setup for your did with cotton.

Ask and ye .....
This is pretty much the same setup for the phoenix except for the routing of the wick ends.
Also, this process isn't foolproof but it's pretty close I think (or maybe I'm just very very used to it).

*Get cotton yarn, white, from walmart. It's yarn. It's not string or anything anyone could mistake for anything except yarn.
*Boil like 6-12 feet of the stuff for 15 mins or so squeeze out and dry (I put i near the intake of the AC in the hall).
You can use other cotton...gauze (not stretchy stuff, just gauze), or cotton balls I guess but I don't have any experience with them.
*Cut 4 inches or so of your boiled, dried, yarn.
*Optional - I take a lighter and singe the yarn to remove all the hairs and stuff. It makes the yarn dark but also thinner and less 'all over the place'. I do this every time
*Take a nail or something the width of the coil you want to make and wrap your coil on it with the bottom lead at 6 o'clock and the other at 3 O'Clock
*ThisPhoenix Rebuildable Atomizer - YouTube video at the 40 second mark details getting the wick into the coil but in short, wrap a piece of wire around the middle of the wick and pull the wire through your coil.
* I stand the wick up over the wick hole and wrap the 2 ends clockwise around to the other side and cut them before they touch the wick again.
*Cut the top off the wick and trim the ends of the wire.
*Soak and test fire.
The first few pulls taste like cotton but it goes away fast. Cotton holds so much liquid that if you're used to mesh, I think you'll be surprised at the amount of vapor you get.

 

[pleaselah]

Hi does anyone knows where can I get a replacement for the small white stopper on the did which is below the 3 screw nuts?

 

[xMackx]

Hi does anyone knows where can I get a replacement for the small white stopper on the did which is below the 3 screw nuts?

You can make one pretty easily or you can go to the hardware store and find something. I've been thinking of making a hard plastic washer to replace the silicone because the silicone expands.

 

[motelgrim]

Hi does anyone knows where can I get a replacement for the small white stopper on the did which is below the 3 screw nuts?

Lol they're bouncy things eh? I lost mine as well. If you tear apart a carto, there is a silicon rubber ring around the center pole that fits perfectly but the inner diameter is a bit large for the pole. I then used teflon tape around the pole to shore that up till it was tight.