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Thank for letting m
know you liked the vids. Hopefully one day I can fully digest the footage gained & maybe one day even return to the inner vapor dome. But I saw this...
best viewed full screen HD
The following fix is not perfect, but it works. Nylon insulators are very useful for more than the Dud(M3). M2 size fits the A7 & it seems nylon is used in it throughout.
I enjoy the consistant early flavors with cotton & its later fudgey foulness over Meshes later sludge. Mesh sludge is hard when cold started & takes on a more acrid bitterness in the taste of the vaped sludge compared to cottons filtration that keeps much of the sludge moist & less concentrated. I love mesh for a tank or two but then it goes directly into sludge factory. Cotton sludge if not too funkey adds a nice smokey fudgeyness! (for m
anyway). Cotton takes much longer to get rank in my experience & has in-between stage that often has many pleasantly acrid "simulated-smokey" flavors.
It is nice to have choices & variety. I even like the look of those silica wicks that look like dyed hair.(even if I don't vape hair
nor silica
)
& had just done a Vivi nova grommet fix vid today, so I in a rush whipped this together:
best viewed full screen HD
The following fix is not perfect, but it works. Nylon insulators are very useful for more than the Dud(M3). M2 size fits the A7
& it seems nylon is used in it throughout.I enjoy the consistant early flavors with cotton & its later fudgey foulness over Meshes later sludge. Mesh sludge is hard when cold started & takes on a more acrid bitterness in the taste of the vaped sludge compared to cottons filtration that keeps much of the sludge moist & less concentrated. I love mesh for a tank or two but then it goes directly into sludge factory. Cotton sludge if not too funkey adds a nice smokey fudgeyness! (for m
). Cotton takes much longer to get rank in my experience & has in-between stage that often has many pleasantly acrid "simulated-smokey" flavors. It is nice to have choices & variety. I even like the look of those silica wicks that look like dyed hair.(even if I don't vape hair
nor silica)
Thank for letting mknow you liked the vids. Hopefully one day I can fully digest the footage gained & maybe one day even return to the inner vapor dome. But I saw this...
& had just done a Vivi nova grommet fix vid today, so I in a rush whipped this together:
best viewed full screen HD
The following fix is not perfect, but it works. Nylon insulators are very useful for more than the Dud(M3). M2 size fits the A7
I enjoy the consistant early flavors with cotton & its later fudgey foulness over Meshes later sludge. Mesh sludge is hard when cold started & takes on a more acrid bitterness in the taste of the vaped sludge compared to cottons filtration that keeps much of the sludge moist & less concentrated. I love mesh for a tank or two but then it goes directly into sludge factory. Cotton sludge if not too funkey adds a nice smokey fudgeyness! (for manyway
It is nice to have choices & variety. I even like the look of those silica wicks that look like dyed hair.(even if I don't vape hair
My sentiments for cotton are the same as you Mister-E. I think most people that don't like cotton probably have had bad experience with it, because I had to remake a lot of cotton wicks/coils to figure out how to configure the coil so it vaped clean from hit one without getting that singed cotton flavor. Also even when the wick does start to taste smoky you can clean it out with juice.
One thing I noticed about my did clone, if I leave juice in it and not use it for awhile it taste metallic. So I either have to keep it clean, I'm sure it's healthier to clean things anyway.
Well I made a plastic insulator to replace the squishy silicone one I didn't like. I also tried cotton batton this time, and have to say I think my did clone prefers batton where my other atties I use cheese cloth. Vapes just great, the batton is different than anything I have tried before. More absorbent than anything else, vapor feels nice and fluffy which is a very soothing sensation.
I'll post some pics of the mods I've done to my did clone later. Anyone that's having troubles with their did clone, don't give up because a few simple mods can turn it around.
I'll post some pics of the mods I've done to my did clone later. Anyone that's having troubles with their did clone, don't give up because a few simple mods can turn it around.
In the pics, under all three of the nuts on the positive is the new plastic insulator. Now I can screw everything down nice and tight without worry of shorting out. The reason for this mod is because the original silicone insulator was extremely soft/squishy, when trying to screw everything down tight it would stretch and distort creating a short. So a hard nylon/plastic insulator works a hundred times better.
I took a thin piece of clear plastic I had that was about 2mm thick. Then used my rotary tool and drilled a hole the same diameter as the positive post. Then cut it down into a circular fashion making a plastic washer/insulator.
As for the rw used, I am experimenting with different types of wire as well. At the moment in the pic I am using 32 awg nichrome 1.8ohm's.
So to sum up all the mods done:
1. Drilled extra air hole 1mm vertical.
2. Drilled wick hole and fill screw hole 3-4mm wide
3. Replaced positive silicone insulator with hard nylon/plastic
4. Using cotton batton instead of ss mesh
I took a thin piece of clear plastic I had that was about 2mm thick. Then used my rotary tool and drilled a hole the same diameter as the positive post. Then cut it down into a circular fashion making a plastic washer/insulator.
As for the rw used, I am experimenting with different types of wire as well. At the moment in the pic I am using 32 awg nichrome 1.8ohm's.
So to sum up all the mods done:
1. Drilled extra air hole 1mm vertical.
2. Drilled wick hole and fill screw hole 3-4mm wide
3. Replaced positive silicone insulator with hard nylon/plastic
4. Using cotton batton instead of ss mesh
Attachments
Just an update on my .anti-mesh screw-it' rant earlier in this thread.
As per usual, I'm watching youtube vids and get inspired to try mesh but not to wick juice up from the tank but to use it as per usual...to drip on ( I hate saying 'drip' because I put 10 drops in there (0.5ml) ).
Basically, I took like 2 solid inches of mesh, oxidized it, then doubled it over on itself like a bobby pin.
I wrapped the coil around the U part and then came down and out to each side
and around until they meet. This required mangling the mesh to more of a rope and not a stiff tube, but once I got the general shape, I removed it and re-fired it with the torch and put it back in.
So far the doubled over mesh holds plenty of fluid and hasn't run dry and tastes pretty good. I can't say that it's better than cotton yarn by much except for initially, it doesn't taste like anything at all whereas cotton tastes like cotton at first.
As per usual, I'm watching youtube vids and get inspired to try mesh but not to wick juice up from the tank but to use it as per usual...to drip on ( I hate saying 'drip' because I put 10 drops in there (0.5ml) ).
Basically, I took like 2 solid inches of mesh, oxidized it, then doubled it over on itself like a bobby pin.
I wrapped the coil around the U part and then came down and out to each side
and around until they meet. This required mangling the mesh to more of a rope and not a stiff tube, but once I got the general shape, I removed it and re-fired it with the torch and put it back in.
So far the doubled over mesh holds plenty of fluid and hasn't run dry and tastes pretty good. I can't say that it's better than cotton yarn by much except for initially, it doesn't taste like anything at all whereas cotton tastes like cotton at first.
Even though my last setup with the 32 nichrome was working great I wanted something that heated up quicker because even if a 30 gauge wire coil and a 33 gauge coil are both the same ohm's the thicker wire still heats up slower. So I redid (all puns intended) my did using 33 awg kanthal and it's preforming faster just how I wanted, but the ohm's are higher on kanthal especially with 33 AWG so smaller coil was needed. I use 4 different sized needles I have to wrap different gauge wire for smaller/larger coils. Wrapped the coil around one of my medium sized needles, placed needle in wick hole (makes it easier to get everything straight). Then threaded cotton batting through.
Attachments
I rigged up Mister-E's Spin-E Coil today (coil not wrapped around wick). I used 30 AWG kanthal very small coil wraps came out 1.9ohms. Wick material was cotton batting.
I have to say this setup is the cleanest flavor I have gotten so far. I ran the wick in the wick hole and wrapped around positive pole and left the other wick hole (originally fill screw hole) open so the juice can flow easily. Taste really great, I love that I can change the wick easily without having to change the coil.
The only other thing I may do to this setup is maybe higher gauge rw so it heats up faster. other than that Mister-E you did a great job with this setup and thank you for sharing it.
I have to say this setup is the cleanest flavor I have gotten so far. I ran the wick in the wick hole and wrapped around positive pole and left the other wick hole (originally fill screw hole) open so the juice can flow easily. Taste really great, I love that I can change the wick easily without having to change the coil.
The only other thing I may do to this setup is maybe higher gauge rw so it heats up faster. other than that Mister-E you did a great job with this setup and thank you for sharing it.
Attachments
Mods I have made for my DID Clone
1. Drilled another 1mm air hole vertical ( I believe multiple tiny air holes work better than one large one).
2. Bored out the wick hole and the fill screw hole to 3mm diameter (for cotton conversion)
3. Replaced the squishy silicone insulator on the positive base with a hard plastic one (silicone would stretch and short)
4. Painted a groove red in line with the wick hole for more accurate air intake placement
5. Lastly I used a method called the Spin-E coil where the coil isn't wrapped around the wick but pressed against it. The coil is wrapped with very small wraps and very close together. Then cotton ball/batting is wrapped around the positive poll against the coil.
I mounted the coil horizontal instead of vertical and pressed it into the cotton wick, it's performing really well. Fog machine performance and I would like to thank Mister-E for turning me into a Spin-E coil user. Again I settled on using 33 AWG kanthal for quicker heat response, but the horizontal performance is just wonderful.
I'll take some pics later and I will keep experimenting with different coils (gauge/shape/angle).
1. Drilled another 1mm air hole vertical ( I believe multiple tiny air holes work better than one large one).
2. Bored out the wick hole and the fill screw hole to 3mm diameter (for cotton conversion)
3. Replaced the squishy silicone insulator on the positive base with a hard plastic one (silicone would stretch and short)
4. Painted a groove red in line with the wick hole for more accurate air intake placement
5. Lastly I used a method called the Spin-E coil where the coil isn't wrapped around the wick but pressed against it. The coil is wrapped with very small wraps and very close together. Then cotton ball/batting is wrapped around the positive poll against the coil.
I mounted the coil horizontal instead of vertical and pressed it into the cotton wick, it's performing really well. Fog machine performance and I would like to thank Mister-E for turning me into a Spin-E coil user. Again I settled on using 33 AWG kanthal for quicker heat response, but the horizontal performance is just wonderful.
I'll take some pics later and I will keep experimenting with different coils (gauge/shape/angle).
I built my genesis coil and wick today, everything seems to work fine but the flavor is awful. Did I over oxidize the wick?
That's why i converted mine to cotton. The mesh it comes with is just a pain to work with, even after I got everything down the flavor was muted. A couple people swear by using 200 ss mesh, so I'll give that a try someday, but for now the cotton works great.
yeah, I assume that the mesh it comes with probably isn't that good of quality. I'll probably end up getting a sheet from the mesh store
There is a trick someone just told me that works very well for priming the wick no matter the setup. Cover the air intake with your thumb and suck, the suction tries to equalize the air pressure in the juice tank to the atomizer head bringing juice up the wick.
Using this method along with the Spin-E coil is like having a dripper atomizer, but instead of dripping a simple priming every 5 minutes from the tank.
I'm really digging the Spin-E coil, wish i would have tried it earlier, and the suction priming is so simple I feel stupid not figuring it out on my own.
Using this method along with the Spin-E coil is like having a dripper atomizer, but instead of dripping a simple priming every 5 minutes from the tank.
I'm really digging the Spin-E coil, wish i would have tried it earlier, and the suction priming is so simple I feel stupid not figuring it out on my own.
xMackx It is nice to see someone try a "Spin E" coil set up & I am glad you are enjoying it. It apparently is not for everyone, as it likely is a bit frustrating to get it set up & vaping on the first attempts. (Great things are often missed due to fear of the trying new or experimental). I hope to be enjoying "Spin E" coil set ups even more now on my Griffin/dud that I just enlarged it wick hole on(Thanks for doing it before mE & sharing the results)."Spin E" coils work better with bigger wick holes, but dud stock wick holes do work. Your kind words & willingness to try the "Spin E" coil = more than you can ever know
I have a warning for dud users. The AGA-S atomizer has hit the US markets. It is the dud sized stainless steel AGA. The wick hole plate is thicker than a brick @ almost twice the thickness of a dud/chud/did clone. It is more than twice the thickness of their own HYDRA units. I was able(not easily) to sand a few mm off the ends, but it is still a wicking loser in that my non modified dud/griffins wick much better. Additionally the wick holes can not be enlarged, as their is no room to do so. Wick hole plate thickness is the sinker, but other flaws exist as well. I am ...... @ being used as a paying product tester!, I am a consumer whom wanted a working product!
The vendor also had an image of an expensive non plated hand made in the USA item(an adapter) & delivered to mE the chinese plated cheapo version. (DV likely quickly lifted/stole the image from another vendor as it shows up in google image in the first row.) GV seems like untrustworthy car salemen to mE, but after the fact I find they actually had the aforementioned part for 5 cents cheaper & used the real image! I do not want to buy from them, but will do so before giving DV my money again. I notice GV got the new flood of new RAs after DV had them first. I also know that GV was wise to wait, so that flaws could be worked out using DV vapers as paying beta testers of poor designs.
The vendor asked forum members for links to RA parts for the units he sells, so he can make them available @ hundreds of percent markup to us. He claims in a forum thread only! that you can get them for free (if you bought the RAs from him) , just ask in the comment of your order. YET the web page for the items does not say such. I guess I am supposed to be a mind reader to get them for free. The vendor was gifted! links to griffin screws by ECF members & then writes this in the description
IMO DV is playing vapers
Under that listing he writes:
No more! DV has no balls & its owner is not a business man. He is being used & using mE for his chinese masters. I have no problem with the chinese ways, as that is how business is done. DV is a thier tool & sadly the owner whom seems like a nice guy is (like mE) a gullible easily played fool.
Hopefully soon I will document the TRUE DUD! aka the AGA-S.
I have a warning for dud users. The AGA-S atomizer has hit the US markets. It is the dud sized stainless steel AGA. The wick hole plate is thicker than a brick @ almost twice the thickness of a dud/chud/did clone. It is more than twice the thickness of their own HYDRA units. I was able(not easily) to sand a few mm off the ends, but it is still a wicking loser in that my non modified dud/griffins wick much better. Additionally the wick holes can not be enlarged, as their is no room to do so. Wick hole plate thickness is the sinker, but other flaws exist as well. I am ...... @ being used as a paying product tester!, I am a consumer whom wanted a working product!
The vendor also had an image of an expensive non plated hand made in the USA item(an adapter) & delivered to mE the chinese plated cheapo version. (DV likely quickly lifted/stole the image from another vendor as it shows up in google image in the first row.) GV seems like untrustworthy car salemen to mE, but after the fact I find they actually had the aforementioned part for 5 cents cheaper & used the real image! I do not want to buy from them, but will do so before giving DV my money again. I notice GV got the new flood of new RAs after DV had them first. I also know that GV was wise to wait, so that flaws could be worked out using DV vapers as paying beta testers of poor designs.
The vendor asked forum members for links to RA parts for the units he sells, so he can make them available @ hundreds of percent markup to us. He claims in a forum thread only! that you can get them for free (if you bought the RAs from him) , just ask in the comment of your order. YET the web page for the items does not say such. I guess I am supposed to be a mind reader to get them for free. The vendor was gifted! links to griffin screws by ECF members & then writes this in the description
He paid too much! (less than $7 for 100 of each & free shipping) No IMO I and all his users tend to buy the BS that pays his bills. (@ 7 cents each, you get 5 = 35 cents worth for $1.99)"Extremely overpriced as I paid way too much for these, my bad.. I am in the corner, I know
IMO DV is playing vapers
for their money more than he is helping IMO. My 2 griffins came with an allen wrench that does not fit. It slowly strips the head. I do not know if the replacement one DV sells is the correct size, but if it is & he really cared about his customers, he would lay the law down with his suppliers & make them give him screws & allen wrenches that actually fit correctly & send them to us for free without a need to ask or find some free offer hidden & buried in a forum(why should I need to even ask! the crap was defective!). No it is likely the same non fitting (slowly stripping) allen wrench screw combo.
Under that listing he writes:
It seems he occupies the Chinese corner in the fight for my money!Extremely overpriced as I paid way too much for these, my bad.. I am in the corner, I know
No more! DV has no balls & its owner is not a business man. He is being used & using mE for his chinese masters. I have no problem with the chinese ways, as that is how business is done. DV is a thier tool & sadly the owner whom seems like a nice guy is (like mE) a gullible easily played fool.
Hopefully soon I will document the TRUE DUD! aka the AGA-S.
wow this spin-E coil is very interesting. always somehting new here!
currently im working on increasing my vapor production. running 32 Kanthal #400 mesh. 2ohm coil at 4v. flavor and TH are immense, but very little vapor even when my hole is lined up with the wick.
i guess i shouldnt worry too much about it because TH is my favorite, followed by flavor. vapor is not of huge significance, but still. i like seeing the big clouds. and not for nothing, i thought huge clouds sorta came with the territory of RBAs.
currently im working on increasing my vapor production. running 32 Kanthal #400 mesh. 2ohm coil at 4v. flavor and TH are immense, but very little vapor even when my hole is lined up with the wick.
i guess i shouldnt worry too much about it because TH is my favorite, followed by flavor. vapor is not of huge significance, but still. i like seeing the big clouds. and not for nothing, i thought huge clouds sorta came with the territory of RBAs.
wow this spin-E coil is very interesting. always somehting new here!
currently im working on increasing my vapor production. running 32 Kanthal #400 mesh. 2ohm coil at 4v. flavor and TH are immense, but very little vapor even when my hole is lined up with the wick.
i guess i shouldnt worry too much about it because TH is my favorite, followed by flavor. vapor is not of huge significance, but still. i like seeing the big clouds. and not for nothing, i thought huge clouds sorta came with the territory of RBAs.
The clouds of vapor depends on how well your setup is. Sounds like your coil isn't getting enough juice. Lots of throat hit and little vapor means not enough juice and the TH you're getting is from over heating. My did is a fog machine, even after making an airy draw I can't inhale enough air to hinder the massive vapor production.
xMackx It is nice to see someone try a "Spin E" coil set up & I am glad you are enjoying it. It apparently is not for everyone, as it likely is a bit frustrating to get it set up & vaping on the first attempts. (Great things are often missed due to fear of the trying new or experimental). I hope to be enjoying "Spin E" coil set ups even more now on my Griffin/dud that I just enlarged it wick hole on(Thanks for doing it before mE & sharing the results)."Spin E" coils work better with bigger wick holes, but dud stock wick holes do work. Your kind words & willingness to try the "Spin E" coil = more than you can ever know
I have a warning for dud users. The AGA-S atomizer has hit the US markets. It is the dud sized stainless steel AGA. The wick hole plate is thicker than a brick @ almost twice the thickness of a dud/chud/did clone. It is more than twice the thickness of their own HYDRA units. I was able(not easily) to sand a few mm off the ends, but it is still a wicking loser in that my non modified dud/griffins wick much better. Additionally the wick holes can not be enlarged, as their is no room to do so. Wick hole plate thickness is the sinker, but other flaws exist as well. I am ...... @ being used as a paying product tester!, I am a consumer whom wanted a working product!
The vendor also had an image of an expensive non plated hand made in the USA item(an adapter) & delivered to mE the chinese plated cheapo version. (DV likely quickly lifted/stole the image from another vendor as it shows up in google image in the first row.) GV seems like untrustworthy car salemen to mE, but after the fact I find they actually had the aforementioned part for 5 cents cheaper & used the real image! I do not want to buy from them, but will do so before giving DV my money again. I notice GV got the new flood of new RAs after DV had them first. I also know that GV was wise to wait, so that flaws could be worked out using DV vapers as paying beta testers of poor designs.
The vendor asked forum members for links to RA parts for the units he sells, so he can make them available @ hundreds of percent markup to us. He claims in a forum thread only! that you can get them for free (if you bought the RAs from him) , just ask in the comment of your order. YET the web page for the items does not say such. I guess I am supposed to be a mind reader to get them for free. The vendor was gifted! links to griffin screws by ECF members & then writes this in the description
He paid too much! (less than $7 for 100 of each & free shipping) No IMO I and all his users tend to buy the BS that pays his bills. (@ 7 cents each, you get 5 = 35 cents worth for $1.99)
IMO DV is playing vapers for their money more than he is helping IMO. My 2 griffins came with an allen wrench that does not fit. It slowly strips the head. I do not know if the replacement one DV sells is the correct size, but if it is & he really cared about his customers, he would lay the law down with his suppliers & make them give him screws & allen wrenches that actually fit correctly & send them to us for free without a need to ask or find some free offer hidden & buried in a forum(why should I need to even ask! the crap was defective!). No it is likely the same non fitting (slowly stripping) allen wrench screw combo.
Under that listing he writes: It seems he occupies the Chinese corner in the fight for my money!
No more! DV has no balls & its owner is not a business man. He is being used & using mE for his chinese masters. I have no problem with the chinese ways, as that is how business is done. DV is a thier tool & sadly the owner whom seems like a nice guy is (like mE) a gullible easily played fool.
Hopefully soon I will document the TRUE DUD! aka the AGA-S.
Larger wick hole and turning the fill screw hole into a wick hole both 4mm diameter made a huge difference. Also the cool thing is if you do want to go back and use ss mesh you can, even do a dual coil/wick setup if wanted.
this makes a lot of sense.
now ive got a decision to make. i can try to improve wicking to get more vapor, but it sounds like id lose some of the TH that i treasure so much. seeing how i like TH more than vapor production, i think i should stay where im at.
however, the overheating ive been told creates acrolein. im not ultra worried about acrolein, but im not pleased by it either. i guess im not educated enough to make a proper decision on acrolein. and to be blunt, im not sure i want to be! i like this added TH so much i almost dont want to know if its bad for my health. :/
how about this idea: maybe i could eliminate the overheating by creating a more efficient wick. then, once the wick is working to its potential i could give the ol top cap a slight spin to get my TH back to immense levels. does that sound plausable? also keep in mind that i just got some #500 so that may inherently wick better and also give great TH. does this sound accurate?
I would suggest making better wick/coil until you're happy with the vapor production. Then work on the TH you want, higher nic levels create more TH (has alot to do with it). There are a lot of things you can do to create more TH without sacrificing vapor production.
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