If you don't find them in the medicine aisle, check facial cleanser area. The are often used in removing cosmetics, nail polish, etc. I use the rounds and love the vape.
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I took the time today to go to Dollar General (I thought I read somewhere in this thread that that's where you folks were getting the rounds) and they had nothing but "makeup pads", which are some kind of synthetic sponge material. I even asked a worker there, who showed me huge bags of cotton balls but they didn't have any rounds. Dang it.
I do have a Dollar Tree in the area, but it's a bit out of the way. I might just have to spend a bit more and hit up CVS...
Good. I have to go to Wal-Mart tomorrow anyway, that'll save gas, and I don't mind paying more than a dollar for them, as it seems they will still be super cheap broken down to price per wick.
I've been trying cotton, with little success for the past 2 months. Every post about cotton wicks showed so little cotton being used, but when I tried, taste reminded me of when I burnt hole in t-shirts, with only an occasional good vape. Then xMackx's post, with picture of his wicks--there were so thick compared to mine. Also the cotton-round cut in a spiral--4x as thick as was I was trying.
I think I might be the exception to that. Seeing the size of your wicks made me try 2 strands of Peaches N Cream, rather than 1. Cut a 1.5 inch (40mm) length of yarn, folded it in half, then wet it down with some 0-nic PG/VG so I could thread it through the coil (Phoenix clone, 2.5mm coil, previously filled with a vertical SS wick) . Had to roll (not twist) it tight, like I do for SS wicks, and it slips in, and quickly recovers to fill the coil. Then add a few more drops PG/VG, until it all looks saturated, and test fire. When the cloud cleared, I reassembled it,
Yes, this is the stuff I'm using. That burnt taste was all I got most of the time--until I doubled up the size of the wick, wet it first with PG/VG, and 'handled' it, working the liquid into it. I've probably gone through about 5 yards of this yarn so far, before I stumbled upon this combination.
I'm thinking my coils are larger than what everyone else is using for cotton, so I'll need more wick than others. Any insight here?
I think I might be the exception to that. Seeing the size of your wicks made me try 2 strands of Peaches N Cream, rather than 1. Cut a 1.5 inch (40mm) length of yarn, folded it in half, then wet it down with some 0-nic PG/VG so I could thread it through the coil (Phoenix clone, 2.5mm coil, previously filled with a vertical SS wick) . Had to roll (not twist) it tight, like I do for SS wicks, and it slips in, and quickly recovers to fill the coil. Then add a few more drops PG/VG, until it all looks saturated, and test fire. When the cloud cleared, I reassembled it,
Yes, this is the stuff I'm using. That burnt taste was all I got most of the time--until I doubled up the size of the wick, wet it first with PG/VG, and 'handled' it, working the liquid into it. I've probably gone through about 5 yards of this yarn so far, before I stumbled upon this combination.
I'm thinking my coils are larger than what everyone else is using for cotton, so I'll need more wick than others. Any insight here?
The spiral cut cotton round I posted was more of a how to for making long wicks. In reality I have found best results with a 2mm wide coil diameter (about the same width as the slots on my vivi novas and drunker tank). When I first started trying cotton I actually had to modify the slots for huge wick/coils I was making.
There are so many variables in what we are doing so I guess I would start by asking what atty devices you are running?
It looks like what I'm using. I don't remember the brand I have.
Make sure they don't have additives like aloe, disinfectant, etc. You want Nothing - Nothing - added to them. You want 100% cotton. That is all. Just 100% cotton. Boil them before you use them.
Make sure they don't have additives like aloe, disinfectant, etc. You want Nothing - Nothing - added to them. You want 100% cotton. That is all. Just 100% cotton. Boil them before you use them.
I don't see anything on the package to indicate that there is anything in them.
Those are them, not the same brand as mine but cotton rounds none the less. Just boil a dozen of them (enough to last months) and use a fork to pick them up out of the water one by one and squeeze flat between your hands to get as much water out and spread them out over a plate and they'll be dry in about 12 hours. Looks like you got good ones, not quilted that's just the compressed pattern. Let us know how it goes!
I tried the rounds. Probably didnt let it sit long enough, but didnt care for it. I have access to scientific quality cheese cloth. Been using it for last 2-3 weeks in my rba dripper. Im liking it alot. Main thing as has been said, a little is more then enough. It expands and will get too tight in the coil and burn prematurely.
Made one last night. Made it smaller then I thought it should be. let it set for hour or so soaking, and swelling. Working wonderful last night and today. Ill stick with my cheese cloth for now. Its easy to work with for me.
Thanks to y'all for experimenting with all these cottons and giving people the options.
Oh btw, since I work at a research farm. I actually have access to fresh cotton off the plant I should try some of that LOL.
Made one last night. Made it smaller then I thought it should be. let it set for hour or so soaking, and swelling. Working wonderful last night and today. Ill stick with my cheese cloth for now. Its easy to work with for me.
Thanks to y'all for experimenting with all these cottons and giving people the options.
Oh btw, since I work at a research farm. I actually have access to fresh cotton off the plant
I should try some of that LOL.
.....Oh btw, since I work at a research farm. I actually have access to fresh cotton off the plant
By all means give it a shot and let us know. Quigsworth1 (poster here on the forums) says that unbleached doesn't wick as well as the bleached, but his bleached cheese cloth was a looser weave than his unbleached and I'm thinking that might have had more to do with it than the bleaching process. Let us know how it turns out.
Edit. I was thinking cheese cloth, but I see that you mean the cotton ball straight from the plant, right?
Try it, and let us know how it works. It should be nice and fluffy and might be great.
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Man I have these cotton rounds going in my IGO-L and I must say.. This is pretty darn sweet.
I must have got the thickness exactly right (and I let it soak overnight) because I don't see any scorching at the coil. Not bad for a first time with a new cotton.
I probably have too much cotton in the RBA itself, but it's a dripper so it doesn't really matter. I could trim it if it starts to bother me... So far, it doesn't!
I must have got the thickness exactly right (and I let it soak overnight) because I don't see any scorching at the coil. Not bad for a first time with a new cotton.
I probably have too much cotton in the RBA itself, but it's a dripper so it doesn't really matter. I could trim it if it starts to bother me... So far, it doesn't!
Great! I love success stories. I don't think I've ever read a negative review on the IGO-L.
But evidently I've somehow come up with some misconceptions about air hole alignment and air flow in these rba's. (I'm speaking about the air supply being close to the wick here.) All I have is a couple of duds, but I know that the vape gets harsher the farther you go from having the air hole directly in front of the wick on these.
I've also seen some threads on some of the rbas that indicate the coils need to be built out close to the air holes for the best vape, and also some positive threads on the rbas that have center fed air right at the bottom of the coil.
All of which mades me think the air intake needed to be close and directly on the coil.
But I've also seen positive threads on some of the rbas like the igo-l that don't have a real close air supply...even some rbas that have a center wick and still have the air intake from a hole on the side, maximum distance away.
If anyone has any more insight on this, I'd be interested.
Great! I love success stories. I don't think I've ever read a negative review on the IGO-L.
But evidently I've somehow come up with some misconceptions about air hole alignment and air flow in these rba's. (I'm speaking about the air supply being close to the wick here.) All I have is a couple of duds, but I know that the vape gets harsher the farther you go from having the air hole directly in front of the wick on these.
I've also seen some threads on some of the rbas that indicate the coils need to be built out close to the air holes for the best vape, and also some positive threads on the rbas that have center fed air right at the bottom of the coil.
All of which mades me think the air intake needed to be close and directly on the coil.
But I've also seen positive threads on some of the rbas like the igo-l that don't have a real close air supply...even some rbas that have a center wick and still have the air intake from a hole on the side, maximum distance away.
If anyone has any more insight on this, I'd be interested.
It doesn't matter how close the air intake hole is, what matters is how it is directed to the coil.
Like with the drunker and vivi novas the air holes are on the botton but then the grommets bottle neck right under the coil so a tiny jet of air is blasting right in the middle of the coil. With the did clone or other genesis types the air intake hole is what is directing the air flow is why it's placement is so important. I don't know if I explained that very well lol.
Don't ya love it when you get the wick perfect enough that there is no break in period.
I've been vaping the IGO-L now for about 2 weeks and I love it. I use braided cotton ~1/0 for the wick and it's wicking good. I make sure that the wick legs sit down on the the base so they will absorb the liquid and drip about 12 drops in the atomizer every so often and vape away. The flavor and throat hit is good. It's light weight and the verticle profile is low and it's Stainless Steel. Just a great little (but not too little) dripping Rebuildable atomizer in my opinion.
Adeline actually has better soaking practices letting new rebuilds soak over night. When I say to let cotton soak a at least a few hours that's really a minimum so you don't burn the cotton. It still takes up to 48 hours for cotton to expand completely and perform with maximum capillary action even if we can get away with a 2 hour soak with no burning.
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