Digiflavor Siren GTA

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Ionutald84

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Apr 24, 2017
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So i replaced the orings and put them as it should be. But still there is a little gap at the air holes ring because it moves up and down. Maybe this is the cause. This are the pictures with the ring up and down
 

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JustWondering1

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Aug 29, 2015
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The material is cotton, the diameter is 3 mm and i put the cotton until it touches the bottom of the tank. The cotton seems to be ok, i dont't know

I am stumped by this. I've been using Sirens more than anything else since October or November and I've never had a dry hit.
 
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52anddone

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I've been off line since Monday morning at 0130 hrs (my router took a crap).

I now have (5) tank fulls and (5) refills into my Siren 22 that I put that 4x1mm o-ring in, and NO Leaks, drips, or seepage of any kind what so ever. I think that that o-ring fixed it. Thanks Fad, I think I have a winner here. This is NOT a Golden BB for all the Siren's woo's, but it is a start. Here's what I did: Digiflavor Siren GTA
 

JustWondering1

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OK then. I just tore apart my Siren 22 (because it was seeping worse than my 25mm Siren), took my build off (all in one piece, cause I'm running another test with it too), took off the diffuser, took off the screw to the positive post, took out the 510 screw that contacts the 510 pin of my mod, put a small flat head screw driver up into the 510 slot and seated it into the bottom of the positive post, turned the screw driver and found the positive post less than ¼ turn loose (so the factory did not tighten the positive post properly after all) so I then unscrewed it all the way, I completely took off the positive block (where 1 leg of the coil gets screwed down).

I then pushed a 4x1mm o-ring down over the positive post threading and worked it down to the grey colored peek insulator, then put the positive block back onto the positive post (with the added o-ring underneath the positive block and around the positive post), then inserted my flat headed screw driver up into the 510 slot and while holding the positive block in place I screwed the positive post tight up into the positive block, installed the positive post screw and diffuser, and then re-installed my build (wick and all), then installed the 510 screw (the gold plated one that contacts the 510 pin of the mod).

I then put the base back onto the mod and did a test fire, my ohms changed to 0.97Ω from 1.05Ω before I started this whole experiment (so the loose positive post did have an effect on the resistance), but seems to be stable, I have it in XxX TC mode running NiCr (like before) on my G2. I took off the base from my mod and re-installed the glass, top, and drip tip to complete the re-assembly procedure. I then filled my Siren with juice and re-checked my resistance, still 0.97Ω. So far no leaks, drips, or seeping. I'll keep ya'll informed as to how this is working. BTW, even though I added that 4x1mm o-ring underneath the positive block, both the positive and negative posts are straight up and down (no leaning posts).

Wow!! You've done a whole lot of work! I'm not sure I follow all of it, but I am very impressed. If I ever have leaking issues I will come here to try to fix it the way you did. Thank you for posting this for everyone who is having problems.
 

JustWondering1

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Never a dry hit on any of mine but I had a lot of seepage that is now gone on my 22's using the upside down method after filling.

What's the upside down filling method? Did you post about it previously? If so, I can probably find it if I do a search.
 

Bigbob2322

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  • Jul 27, 2014
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    What's the upside down filling method? Did you post about it previously? If so, I can probably find it if I do a search.
    What's the upside down filling method? Did you post about it previously? If so, I can probably find it if I do a search.
    Here's what I have started doing to cut down on the leaks;

    1) Close the air flow adjustment ring
    2) Take off top, fill the tank all the way up, including the semi-circle fill slots
    3) put top back on
    4) turn tank upside down, let air bubble go up (sometimes it won't though), then open air flow adjustment ring while still upside down (I open to the biggest hole)
    5) Turn Siren back right side up and take several big hits under power
    6) I then turn the air flow adjustment ring to show 1/2 of the smallest hole and just vape normally

    I will get some condensation forming from around the air flow adjustment ring about every other fill, I take a tissue and hold it on the air flow ring while twisting the air flow ring from open to closed a few times (with the Siren off of my mod, of course). This has cleaned off most condensation forming around that air flow ring.

    That is what works for me anyway. I also get absolutely NO leaks from re-filling alone, if you do, then make sure that the air flow adjustment ring is Closed when you re-fill, if it still leaks, then take tank apart and check the o-rings on the top/bottom of the glass to make sure that they are not damaged from the factory. My top flat o-ring on my glass (on my 25mm Siren) was destroyed (New, out of the box) and had to be replaced before I even used it once, Others have found the same situation with theirs (but not all).
     

    JustWondering1

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    The only thing I do differently is I only fill to just past the chimney top and just vape normal.

    I try to not fill to above the build chamber. When my e liquid is above the build chamber, I'm more likely to have seepage and need to add extra cotton to my wick using the Classwife method.
     

    kungfoogorilla

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    Apr 19, 2017
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    There was a 22mm on eBay, still in box from a US seller. The seller used to be a reviewer for a vape magazine and was selling off extra pieces he was sent by vendors and manufacturers. I sent the seller a message asking if they knew if it had the diffuser or if it was one of the earlier runs that didn't have the diffuser, but they never got back to me. Kind of regret not taking the chance and wished I would have picked it up now.
     
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