Digiflavor Siren GTA

[Cosmic_Glaze]

I'm sorry to hear that! Your Sirens must be a little off-kilter. It's a breeze for me to close the afc. I wonder if you could find something that's just the right size to plug the hole with or put tape over the afc when refilling?

I have not even had a problem so far with it. So it's no big deal.

 

[JustWondering1]

QC yeah prob. Mine did not even come with the air flow reducer.

I'm trying to remember what happened with your reducer. Did the vape shop send you one after you inquired about it? Did you try using the protank grommet in the air tube?

 

[JustWondering1]

I have not even had a problem so far with it. So it's no big deal.

But if you could plug it before refilling, I bet it wouldn't be so seepy.

 

[Cosmic_Glaze]

I'm trying to remember what happened with your reducer. Did the vape shop send you one after you inquired about it? Did you try using the protank grommet in the air tube?

It was serial #35 the original batche that never had any.. it was $15 they gave me credit because they did not have any others.... I took one of my KF5 reducers and wrapped a little strip of mesh around it to make it snug and fit. Works well.

 

[DPLongo22]

I'll be honest that I don't close mine at all. I just pop the top and fill it. The leaking for me is totally random, so I gave up trying to stop it. Sometimes it will go for days, dry as a bone, then one day just leak like crazy.

It'll always be an at-home tank for me, but I'll probably not give it up anytime soon. I like what it brings to my table, so I live with it.

 

[JustWondering1]

It was serial #35 the original batche that never had any.. it was $15 they gave me credit because they did not have any others.... I took one of my KF5 reducers and wrapped a little strip of mesh around it to make it snug and fit. Works well.

Okay. Now I remember. I'm glad it worked eventually. Given the early batch, it makes more sense why you can't close off your afc.

 

[StickyDate]

Still no squeak from Fad?
Hope he's alright. You'd think if he was around (the forums) he would call in to say hi or something eh after contributing so much to this thread.

 

[kydo99]

damn it!......second attempt of buying o-ring for seep fix is a fail too,
first attempt i ordered wrong size and seller sent wrong size to what i ordered anyway
ordered correct ones this time but they arrived today and are twice the size
third time lucky then hopefully.......

 

[billybc96]

I took my extra o-ring out and just tightened the heck out of that threaded air tube to post connection. When using sufficient wick in a 3.5mm ID coil I have had no leak issues, even right after refilling. I have even had success doing this with rayon. Previously, I had a lot of seepage/leakage issues with this RTA.

Unfortunately, with the tobacco juices I use, my wick gets dark and I get crud build up on my coil rather quickly, so I still have to dry burn my coil and replace my wick everyday. Towards the end of its useful life, as the wick darkens and the crud builds up, I will start to get some juice seepage. But then I know it is time to replace the wick soon.

No matter what I do, I have to replace the wick everyday. I use SS316L or NiFe30 wire. I've read that Titanium wire runs much cleaner, with a lot less gunk buildup, so you don't have to swap out wicks as often, but one drawback is you can't really safely and easily dry burn titanium wire. Does anyone know if this is true - about titanium getting less gunk buildup and just simply lasting much longer?

 

[green.on.green]

Hey everyone

So the Siren V2 is up for preorder !

To help keep discussions between v1 & v2 seperate, I went ahead and created a new thread :

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/index.php?threads/824135/

[emoji1597]

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

 

[billybc96]

Hey everyone

So the Siren V2 is up for preorder !

To help keep discussions between v1 & v2 seperate, I went ahead and created a new thread :

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/index.php?threads/824135/

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Wow, already, eh? That almost seems too soon, but I'm a late adopter of the Siren, so that's probably why it feels that way. Honestly, I'm not hot on the gold trim look, though the gunmetal/rose gold one is kind of cool.

I finally got around to ordering some titanium wire (0.3 and 0.4mm, which works out to about 26 and 28 gauge), from Sweet Spot Vapor. I look forward to giving it a try for temp controlled MTL use in my Siren and other RTAs.

My Resitherm NiFe30 wire (that only comes in 28 gauge) works pretty well for TC, but it gets bent out of shape pretty easily, which is an annoyance. The SS 316L wire doesn't have that issue. It is pretty easy to work with, and can be dry burned without issue (so you can use it in wattage mode if you like, which is handy for testing your settings sometimes), but it doesn't work very smoothly in TC mode. That makes it hard to get the most out of it for MTL chain vaping.

Hopefully the high grade titanium stuff (about $1 a foot, but cheaper when bought in greater bulk) will run more smoothly than the SS, be a little sturdier compared to the NiFe30 (which breaks fairly easily), and run cleaner than both, but I'll soon find out for myself if I like it or not.

With my Siren I feel like I have to stuff almost too much wick in there for the juice to wick properly, if I don't want any leak issues. Which is why I use a 3.5mm ID coil, but I feel like that might be almost too big a coil for good airflow in the Siren (using the diffuser). I don't think I want to use a 4mm ID coil, as there is barely enough room on the Siren deck for that anyway.

 

[52anddone]

damn it!......second attempt of buying o-ring for seep fix is a fail too,
first attempt i ordered wrong size and seller sent wrong size to what i ordered anyway
ordered correct ones this time but they arrived today and are twice the size
third time lucky then hopefully.......

Here ya go kydo, try this link:

Metric Buna O-rings 4 x 1mm Price for 50 pcs

 

[kydo99]

thanks 52.....bigbob gave me that link a few days ago, i`m in the UK so could`nt get them from there, i have found and ordered the same ones over here but got the wrong size sent, the seller has sent the correct ones out now and should be here tomorrow,
the first attempt was my own fault as i did`nt measure anything myself on the atty....i just saw the 4x1mm o-ring way back in this thread and ended up buying 4mm OD instead of 4mm ID o-rings....and i was sent like 1.5-2mm thick ones anyway instead of 1mm.

 

[kydo99]

i must say i`m not sure about the look of the new v2 Siren either, not keen on the gold highlights ....looks like a 2-3ml to me as well going on the pics.

 

[52anddone]

My Resitherm NiFe30 wire (that only comes in 28 gauge) works pretty well for TC, but it gets bent out of shape pretty easily, which is an annoyance. The SS 316L wire doesn't have that issue. It is pretty easy to work with, and can be dry burned without issue (so you can use it in wattage mode if you like, which is handy for testing your settings sometimes), but it doesn't work very smoothly in TC mode. That makes it hard to get the most out of it for MTL chain vaping.

You are about the first that I have seen post that SS 316L doesn't work smoothly in TC mode. I'm curious as to how it doesn't work smoothly for you. I have never used SS wire for anything myself, but in the posts I have read about SS wire, I have never heard this complaint, or in fact any complaint, about SS wire being difficult to use, or having any sub-par results in TC mode. I've always read posts saying that it has been better for TC than the rest of the wire options. So, what's going on billy that SS wire isn't working for you (I've been back and forth on getting some 316L myself for experimenting purposes, that's why I ask).

 

[52anddone]

In the description of the Siren V2, it says Quad air slots ?? From the pictures provided, I see 1 air slot on the base with about 4 air holes in it that can be adjusted.

As far as whether the Siren V2 has a defuser or a air plug, I'm hoping that it has the same defuser as the V1's do. Why ?? If one is a Tight MTL'er like me, then it will matter which way Digiflavor decides to go on this. A defuser, like in the V1, defuses (spreads out) the air across more of the bottom side of the coil (to also cool it) than a single tiny hole would. I have the Coppervape SkyLine, and in it I have put in the air disk with the smallest single hole that they make, which is centered beneath the center of my coil. What I have found, is that I get almost half the wick longevity as I do in my Siren before I get that off taste and have to change wicks. What I find is a scorched wick (on the bottom, in the center), even though I have 1 of the 2 air slots fully open on my SkyLine. I'm guessing that not enough air is getting to enough of the coil to keep the wick cool (except for a little spot dead in the center of the coil) and the heat of the coil is singeing the wick from almost the first hit. The folks that use more air don't have this problem near as much as us Tight MTL'er's do. The air supply under the coil is not only for tightness of draw, but also (and primarily) for cooling the coil that is touching the wick so as not to burn the wick in two from coil heat. For we that like a tight draw, this becomes a very interesting dance of air circulation on the coil/wick versus Draw comfort, and I think that a defuser would be more efficient than a single, tiny, air hole. That's my anyway.

Edit: I have also found this to happen with my Taifun GT V2 and other RTA's that I fit with a smaller air tube for under the coil to tighten up the draw, so not specific to just the SkyLine. My Coppervape Hussar I have the 1.3mm air tube installed and have no problems with burnt wicks, so I think it might be partly the design of the air path also, but just my guess on this one.

 

[ian91]

If you watch the video on the V2, in the large air slot, there are 5 air holes from large to very small. The very small looks a lot smaller than the smallest on the V1. That was a hard sentence to write!!!

 

[JustWondering1]

If you watch the video on the V2, in the large air slot, there are 5 air holes from large to very small. The very small looks a lot smaller than the smallest on the V1. That was a hard sentence to write!!!

And you did a great job!!

 

[billybc96]

In the description of the Siren V2, it says Quad air slots ?? From the pictures provided, I see 1 air slot on the base with about 4 air holes in it that can be adjusted.

As far as whether the Siren V2 has a defuser or a air plug, I'm hoping that it has the same defuser as the V1's do. Why ?? If one is a Tight MTL'er like me, then it will matter which way Digiflavor decides to go on this. A defuser, like in the V1, defuses (spreads out) the air across more of the bottom side of the coil (to also cool it) than a single tiny hole would. I have the Coppervape SkyLine, and in it I have put in the air disk with the smallest single hole that they make, which is centered beneath the center of my coil. What I have found, is that I get almost half the wick longevity as I do in my Siren before I get that off taste and have to change wicks. What I find is a scorched wick (on the bottom, in the center), even though I have 1 of the 2 air slots fully open on my SkyLine. I'm guessing that not enough air is getting to enough of the coil to keep the wick cool (except for a little spot dead in the center of the coil) and the heat of the coil is singeing the wick from almost the first hit. The folks that use more air don't have this problem near as much as us Tight MTL'er's do. The air supply under the coil is not only for tightness of draw, but also (and primarily) for cooling the coil that is touching the wick so as not to burn the wick in two from coil heat. For we that like a tight draw, this becomes a very interesting dance of air circulation on the coil/wick versus Draw comfort, and I think that a defuser would be more efficient than a single, tiny, air hole. That's my anyway.

Edit: I have also found this to happen with my Taifun GT V2 and other RTA's that I fit with a smaller air tube for under the coil to tighten up the draw, so not specific to just the SkyLine. My Coppervape Hussar I have the 1.3mm air tube installed and have no problems with burnt wicks, so I think it might be partly the design of the air path also, but just my guess on this one.

I think they mean 4 air slots instead of one air hole under where the coil sits, as opposed to the AFC ring on the outside of the tank. In prototype pics I saw if the V2, that is how the base looked below where the coil sits - 4 long, very narrow air slits. I'm glad they have kept that feature from the prototype, as I agree with you about the Siren's MTL airflow using that cap - instead of just a narrow hole. I think the 4 slits might actually work better than the cap. We'll see.

You are about the first that I have seen post that SS 316L doesn't work smoothly in TC mode. I'm curious as to how it doesn't work smoothly for you. I have never used SS wire for anything myself, but in the posts I have read about SS wire, I have never heard this complaint, or in fact any complaint, about SS wire being difficult to use, or having any sub-par results in TC mode. I've always read posts saying that it has been better for TC than the rest of the wire options. So, what's going on billy that SS wire isn't working for you (I've been back and forth on getting some 316L myself for experimenting purposes, that's why I ask).

It depends a lot on the quality of chipset your TC mod uses. A DNA 75 device I have (that I sadly think is just too large, so I don't use it much) runs SS wire fairly smoothly, or at least smoothly enough for it not to be a big issue. NiFe30 runs better though, because of its TCR allowing for more functional accuracy.

The TCR of SS wire does not allow for as much on-the-fly operating accuracy compared to wire materials such as nickel or titanium. So, if you are pushing things a bit, for performance (like I do frequently, when I MTL chain vape), then the chipset of many TC mods cannot keep up with the rapid changes in coil resistance that it uses to guesstimate the actual coil temp.

Remember, the TC mod is only making an algorithmic guess, based on the wire's TCR, about what the wire's actual temp is. SS wire doesn't change its resistance much (at all) as it heats up, so it is just that much harder for the mod to properly adjust power quickly compared to if you were using wire with an easier to read TCR.

Kanthal A1 has an even harder to accurately read TCR, which is why it is never used for TC builds. SS and Kanthal wire have TCRs that are fairly close compared to other wire materials used for TC. Nickel is very good, as its resistance changes a lot, and quickly, as it heats up, which makes it easy to read and adjust power for by you average TC chipset. For a variety of reasons, mainly because it is very hard to work with, nickel wire is not optimal for building TC coils, though plenty of people still apparently use it for that.

Nickel and titanium wires produces toxic chemicals when they are super heated, which will happen if you dry burn them. Lots of people don't want to be concerned about that (understandably), so they just use SS wire instead, which can be dry burned without creating toxic chemicals.

Depending on your needs, SS wire for TC can be just fine, but I don't think it is working that well for me. It just works "okay". It is easy to work with, and doesn't cost that much, but that's about it. Those aren't bad things, but they are not great either. I may or may not like titanium better. I'll just have to wait and see.

 

[52anddone]

If you watch the video on the V2, in the large air slot, there are 5 air holes from large to very small. The very small looks a lot smaller than the smallest on the V1. That was a hard sentence to write!!!

After I just watched the Video, I saw that. I'm running between this thread and the V2 thread and trying not to get cornfused.