That wire should not be a problem seminole. It's just a ground and ground doesn't care.
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That wire should not be a problem seminole. It's just a ground and ground doesn't care.
any reason as to why you couldn't solder the battery to atomizer connector to the edge of the battery box? So that half the atomizer isn't inside the contraption? Just wondering if there was a specific reason as to why you have it inside. Could make it easier to connect a different atty if you don't have to open the box up.
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The atomizer connectors can be mounted to the exterior of the box or recessed inside of the box. Reasons for recessing it are compactness and mechanical stress on the connection. Mounting to the exterior makes for simpler hookups and more room inside the box. My single battery box is recessed and my triple is exterior mounted.
Paradiso, you must be using actual battery ends as connectors. I imagine that's a lot more difficult to build than a 801 setup using a phone jack that can be mechanically panel mounted or glued in place with a nice, wide terminal.
Yes, the 401 uses a battery connector. The 510 uses a 401 atomizer as the connector.
Its a PIA to solder to the center terminal but once its done, you get a nice clean atomizer connector which gives the whole thing a polished look.
Its a PIA to solder to the center terminal but once its done, you get a nice clean atomizer connector which gives the whole thing a polished look.
Thanks for the info. I guess I can use the wire that I bought. I just never saw my atomizers glow, can't look while you lips are on it, LOL
I just want to thank Nicowolf for making the nicostick possible! I bought one from Wildsky, and it is a thing of beauty. She sold me a few parts also so I can try to build my own..with instuctions because she used a Coaxial power jack.
I am still clueless because she did such a neat and tidy job I can't see what she did!!!! LOL.
I will wait for my son to come up and help, he is good at such things.
Thanks again Nico, you are wonderful.
And Wildsky is a peach.
I am still clueless because she did such a neat and tidy job I can't see what she did!!!! LOL.
I will wait for my son to come up and help, he is good at such things.
Thanks again Nico, you are wonderful.
And Wildsky is a peach.
After reading about this mod I'm intrigued to try it myself. I'm a fairly handy person, though admittedly I've never soldered anything before (bet I could figure it out though) and don't tend to play with the "guts" of electronics anymore than necessary.. It all seems really simple except I'm a little uncertain about one point.
In the instructions you mention that you borrowed the connector for the 510attomizer from 510 battery. Seeing as I don't have a dead battery to pull apart for this and I can't bring myself to kill a perfectly good battery.. I was hoping I could find another way around this.. to do this I need to make sure I understand how this works...
My understanding is that (essentially) the two parts are:
1) The negative connector that has the threads needed for the atomizer to screw into while still allowing it room to breathe through the holes behind the threads and does not touch the center "post" of the atomizer
2) A positive connector that touches only the center "post" part of the atomizer (preferably one that doesn't allow juice past this point)
So in theory if I could find something that would/could match the threading on the atomizer, and find a conductive post and a non conductive fitting to go between the post and the screw fitting then I could make this bit myself rather than tearing up a perfectly good battery right??
This seems like a fun idea to try one day on a weekend when I've got nothing better do to besides rotting my brain on video games
I would appreciate hearing other thoughts on my idea.. and yes I do realize it would likely be simpler to tear apart a battery.. I just can't bring myself to do it
Oh ... and to be clear I'm understanding this whole concept correctly.. would a regular AA battery work "in a pinch" with this mod???
In the instructions you mention that you borrowed the connector for the 510attomizer from 510 battery. Seeing as I don't have a dead battery to pull apart for this and I can't bring myself to kill a perfectly good battery.. I was hoping I could find another way around this.. to do this I need to make sure I understand how this works...
My understanding is that (essentially) the two parts are:
1) The negative connector that has the threads needed for the atomizer to screw into while still allowing it room to breathe through the holes behind the threads and does not touch the center "post" of the atomizer
2) A positive connector that touches only the center "post" part of the atomizer (preferably one that doesn't allow juice past this point)
So in theory if I could find something that would/could match the threading on the atomizer, and find a conductive post and a non conductive fitting to go between the post and the screw fitting then I could make this bit myself rather than tearing up a perfectly good battery right??
This seems like a fun idea to try one day on a weekend when I've got nothing better do to besides rotting my brain on video games
I would appreciate hearing other thoughts on my idea.. and yes I do realize it would likely be simpler to tear apart a battery.. I just can't bring myself to do it
Oh ... and to be clear I'm understanding this whole concept correctly.. would a regular AA battery work "in a pinch" with this mod???
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After reading about this mod I'm intrigued to try it myself. I'm a fairly handy person, though admittedly I've never soldered anything before (bet I could figure it out though) and don't tend to play with the "guts" of electronics anymore than necessary.. It all seems really simple except I'm a little uncertain about one point.
In the instructions you mention that you borrowed the connector for the 510attomizer from 510 battery. Seeing as I don't have a dead battery to pull apart for this and I can't bring myself to kill a perfectly good battery.. I was hoping I could find another way around this.. to do this I need to make sure I understand how this works...
My understanding is that (essentially) the two parts are:
1) The negative connector that has the threads needed for the atomizer to screw into while still allowing it room to breathe through the holes behind the threads and does not touch the center "post" of the atomizer
2) A positive connector that touches only the center "post" part of the atomizer (preferably one that doesn't allow juice past this point)
So in theory if I could find something that would/could match the threading on the atomizer, and find a conductive post and a non conductive fitting to go between the post and the screw fitting then I could make this bit myself rather than tearing up a perfectly good battery right??
This seems like a fun idea to try one day on a weekend when I've got nothing better do to besides rotting my brain on video games
I would appreciate hearing other thoughts on my idea.. and yes I do realize it would likely be simpler to tear apart a battery.. I just can't bring myself to do it
Oh ... and to be clear I'm understanding this whole concept correctly.. would a regular AA battery work "in a pinch" with this mod???
You seem to understand the connector correctly. It is essentially two concentric (share the same center) rings, one inside the other, separated by an insulator.
An M401 atomizer or charger also have the same connector - maybe you would be more willing to sacrifice one of these (RuyanDirect has a M401 USB charger for $3.50 and some good prices on other stuff too).
A regular AA battery will not power an atomizer. The atomizer requires 3 volts or more to produce any vapor at all. Alkaline batteries can only give 1.5 volts and cannot sustain a high drain like our atomizers. Even if you were to wire 3 of them in series (stacked like in a flashlight), they will only power an atomizer for a short time because they cannot let go of the energy as easily as lithium. You get some good vape time on 3 NiMH rechargeable AA batteries, but your case would be twice the size in order to hold so many.
This really is as simple as a mod can get in terms of necessary electronics and electrical knowledge. I am more than happy to answer any questions you come across as you work on it. Others in the modders forum have also been very gracious about posting answers and helping out those who are willing to humble themselves to ask for guidance. These guys are great.
meaning you can plug a 401 atomizer into a 510 atomizer?? Just making sure I'm reading this right
That is precisely what it means. And you can do the same with the batteries for these two - although I wouldn't suggest doing such a dangerous thing.
lol of course not.. can't possibly think of any benefit for such an experiment anyway (unless a person was drunk and doing stupid stuff for GP) .. hmm.. it's a thought.. I'll look into that (or maybe just wait for one of my batteries to die before I try this... or do it with one of my dead 901's) thanks.. you've given me quite a bit to think about
(or maybe just wait for one of my batteries to die before I try this... or do it with one of my dead 901's) thanks.. you've given me quite a bit to think about
I haven't actually tried the USB route because that would require some kind of protection circuit to cut off the charging at 4.2 volts and to limit the charge current since these batteries don't like to charge that fast. Another forum member had an idea to mod the NicoStick to just put the whole mod in the battery charger that is meant for this battery. I have worked a little with that idea, but don't have any results I want to put out there just yet. I am still working with the idea and tweaking things. I am being very careful not to put potentially catastrophic ideas in this thread as it is an instructional thread and not just a check out my latest device kind of thread. I want to make sure the ideas I put here are fully functional and tested and as safe as I know how to make them.
Would certainly be safer to use usb for recharging the battery than mains.
There are chips available for the purpose, but I will look into doing it with an opamp and zener.
I would voltage regulate usb passthrough to 3.6v also.
Hello semi long time lurker, first time poster ... I'm currently working on building a nico stick of my own. But, I ran into a little snag in your instructions you say you "liberated" the connector from a dead battery. Could you elaborate on the liberating part. I'm worried about destroying the connector trying to get it out of the tube. For the life of me nothing is even remotly coming close to geting it to budge. The model I'm working with is the j118. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Has anyone found the 2AA boxes with the on/off switch at local retailers? 8-10 dollars to ship a 2 dollar box... and the wait.
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