$240 w/ free shipping... getting close to the Opus D (dna 20) of 2 years ago ($250)
DNA 200 Watt
- Thread starter MegaVap
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Lol you gotta be kidding me. I was soooo mad when I thought I was not going to be able to order the Opus tonight before I called House of Vapor and alistairs and finds another site that has them (thinking House of Vapor was the only distributor). I searched everywhere for another site that had them too!
Only thing is its 10 dollars more there than House of Vapor. I'm willing to bet they sell out pretty fast now that was posted in this thread, lol. Looks like the nickel has a bit of a gold hue to it while the Opus site makes it look like its silver. I do like that it doesn't have the Opus logo.
Would this be the wrong thread to discuss tanks/builds that are appropriate for 70+ watts in temperature control? While I stress safety and have been using an ipv4, I am a relative newb and feel like this DNA200 is going to open my eyes to all sorts of cool things. I think I'm going to have to take the time to read all 100 pages of this thread.
Does the DNA 200 use the same method of estimating battery life as the earlier DNA boards? Or is it now a straight forward meter?
Yes and no. It's default is the same as the latest DNA40 board. You can change the curve via software (Escribe).
Never knew the Opus had ties with Evolv. Still even more disappointed by the Opus 200 design. The wire leading to the 510 pushing into the top side of the lipo. They should have taken the time to show other makers how to do it right, like MS with the Surface line.
I reckon they've already shown through the 'reference' mod.
Mods: VS rDNA 40 / Cloupor Mini
Attys: PhenomenoN Zest / Lemo Drop / Lemo
Mods: VS rDNA 40 / Cloupor Mini
Attys: PhenomenoN Zest / Lemo Drop / Lemo
I am playing with the Escribe software right now and want to suggest to anyone interested in this board to check out the interactive tutorial/guide (EScribe Software Download and Tutorial - DNA 200 Early Adopters Forum I am really looking forward to this device coming now, the software is fantastic and the guide is actually really well done (thank god it exists because I certainly needed it although the software seems pretty straight forward to create your settings). Apologies if this has been posted already, I tried going through every page of this thread already and think that actually going through the tutorial is a really good way of learning what this is all about.
Mine has just finished. I didn't connect the board up before final installation and found that I had made the display aperture too small. I can still see the battery indicator so I'm undecided wether to make a new front panel.
It's for my wrist vaper mod
j/k. I needed a replacement battery for my dog's training collar. The stock Nimh didn't even last a year and I didn't use it much.
Beautiful!!! I'd redo the screen opening. If it was a beater mod, I'd leave it but it's so nice, I'd want it perfect.
Well done, looks a bit more compact then the opus. Got any shots of the inside layout?
It's difficult to see the inside layout of the finished mod because everything goes in from the bottom but this is a photo of the parts and you can just make out the layout on the drawing.
So I finally got to soldering some leads.
damn soldering is hard. I will seriously need help of a friend to actually solder on the board. Messed up so hard. but everything seems to have a solid connection. it just doesn't look pretty. I will admit I got a cheap 30 watt soldererererthing but it heats up well enough. solder itself supposedly has 3,5% flux in it. hell I didn't even find solder without flux. flux came in a round container. Didn't get it since I thought the flux IN the wire would help. putting solder on the tip just turns it into brown good so I am just fiddling with getting solder on the wire.
But yeah I definitely need the help of a friend that knows abit more about soldering than me.
24 gauge on the switches. 14 gauge on the 510. it was annoying trying to get the 14 gauge into the positive hole thing but it fit in the end but man trying to not get the solder on the rest of the positive(so it doesn't lock up the spring load action) was urgh.
damn soldering is hard. I will seriously need help of a friend to actually solder on the board. Messed up so hard. but everything seems to have a solid connection. it just doesn't look pretty. I will admit I got a cheap 30 watt soldererererthing but it heats up well enough. solder itself supposedly has 3,5% flux in it. hell I didn't even find solder without flux. flux came in a round container. Didn't get it since I thought the flux IN the wire would help. putting solder on the tip just turns it into brown good so I am just fiddling with getting solder on the wire.
But yeah I definitely need the help of a friend that knows abit more about soldering than me.
24 gauge on the switches. 14 gauge on the 510. it was annoying trying to get the 14 gauge into the positive hole thing but it fit in the end but man trying to not get the solder on the rest of the positive(so it doesn't lock up the spring load action) was urgh.
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