DNA 200 Watt
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That looks amazing. Mind posting any more photos and where you got the case from?
You really should get some flux for soldering on the board. I use Kester 951. It's liquid and I use a dripper bottle with a needle tip to drop a bit on each solder. You don't need to clean it off the board when you're done soldering.So I finally got to soldering some leads.
damn soldering is hard. I will seriously need help of a friend to actually solder on the board. Messed up so hard. but everything seems to have a solid connection. it just doesn't look pretty. I will admit I got a cheap 30 watt soldererererthing but it heats up well enough. solder itself supposedly has 3,5% flux in it. hell I didn't even find solder without flux. flux came in a round container. Didn't get it since I thought the flux IN the wire would help. putting solder on the tip just turns it into brown good so I am just fiddling with getting solder on the wire.
But yeah I definitely need the help of a friend that knows abit more about soldering than me.
24 gauge on the switches. 14 gauge on the 510. it was annoying trying to get the 14 gauge into the positive hole thing but it fit in the end but man trying to not get the solder on the rest of the positive(so it doesn't lock up the spring load action) was urgh.
There's a bunch of videos on youtube. You should watch a few to give you tips on soldering on a circuit board.
I haven't got many photo's yet but the case is made from aluminium box section and flat bar. The panels are made from Perspex.
Like I said. this is belgium. we suck. a damn store meant for people who work professionally had like 4 solder kits. one brand of solder and flux in a fricking jar that looks like it should be for makeup. I guess il go buy some on monday and hope it's liquid. but judging from the packaging it's more for torching? since it showed a blowtorch.
If it comes in paste form, you can use a small brush to apply it to the solder joint. Some (most?) pastes need to be cleaned off after soldering because they can be corrosive over time.
Make sure it is not an ACID base flux. You want ROSIN base flux. Usually if they are showing a torch it will contain acid for copper pipe soldering.
There is a company call "GC" it maybe GC chemicals I not sure at the moment but anyway they have been supply liquid flux to the electronics industry for years. I don't have any decent stores where i live also so I get mine off of eBay.
It begins....
Nice
Well rxcept the batteries. Personally I don't like them but they might be ok in a mod. Check for expansion (puffing) from time to time and stick your nose close to them whenever you open the mod. If you detect a sweet scent, toss them.
Good work
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Question: I know you can specify a cut-off voltage different from the pre programmed 3.09V (at least on the beta units)
Can you define max voltage for charging purposes? There are a few lipos put there operating at 3.8V nominal that can be safely charged to 4.35V.
Can you define that limit in the software?
Thx.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Can you define max voltage for charging purposes? There are a few lipos put there operating at 3.8V nominal that can be safely charged to 4.35V.
Can you define that limit in the software?
Thx.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Max 4.2v ATM, @Cotay asked the same question on evolv forum and waiting someone to reply.
Previously @VapingBad requested max 4.1v and John added the feature on the next update (a day after request)
IIRC on the Mod tab in EScribe, but you can only change the max between 4.1 & 4.2 V per cell ATM.
Thx. So for the time being, hyperions g6 are out of the equation..
Regards
Tony
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No I think you can use them, they just will not fully charge as I understand it, @Cotay could tell you more.
I would think you could use them.... exert from the written info:
G6 HV packs can be charged to standard lipo teminal voltage of 4.2V per cell and in that case deliver about the same capacity as the standard lipo pack of same weight and C-rate (so the G6 2400 will deliver about 2200mAh when charged to 4.2V/cell), or charged to a maximum of 4.35V per cell for full rated capacity, about 10% additional capacity and run time compared to standard LiPo packs.
I know but not much point in only using 90% of their capacity.
A true 900mah battery would only get 810mah or so... Kinda shame.
I asked a beta to forward my question to Evolv if they might lift that limit for specific batteries. Let's see what they say.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
So I found a DNA 200 sled on thingiverse.
printed it out but it was too thick. since I just want to put it against the wall and epoxy it instead of like building it into the wall. I just wanted a mount for the screen. was able cut it down alot so it seems to work now. Just need to open up the USB abit, cut the screws holders abit so the USB goes deeper and should be able to fit it. how safe is epoxing the actual board since I don't think that those "screw posts" will hold well onto screws because of the stress from the USB. Essentially planning to put a small dab of expo on the points where the board touches those posts and epoxing the sides of the sled.
printed it out but it was too thick. since I just want to put it against the wall and epoxy it instead of like building it into the wall. I just wanted a mount for the screen. was able cut it down alot so it seems to work now. Just need to open up the USB abit, cut the screws holders abit so the USB goes deeper and should be able to fit it. how safe is epoxing the actual board since I don't think that those "screw posts" will hold well onto screws because of the stress from the USB. Essentially planning to put a small dab of expo on the points where the board touches those posts and epoxing the sides of the sled.
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But wouldn't the life span and safety be increased using it that way? Hey I don't know hence why I'm asking.
My two DNA200's arrived safely today! The post office normally delivers before 11:00 AM on Saturdays, but they must have known I was itching for this so they waited until 4:00 PM.
In any event, I immediately took one out and loaded up my test sled. For the most part it is good...the only major issue I see is the USB connector protrudes out the front maybe .05mm-.10mm, but I think this is because the plate was printed a bit convex...I'll make a slight adjustment in the design before I print my box mod with this spacing. One interesting thing is that my screen mount plate only really needs one screw; it's designed for up to four but usually I get by with two...the reason there are four is to leave options based upon the room of the specific design I'll insert the "holes" into. The reason it only needs one screw is that there is an IC onboard that is acting as a contact point where that screw would normally go...I'm happy with this since it will make installing the screen mount much easier in tight spaces. The button distance from the board is spot on and the feel is pretty darn good. I'm using four 1.2 x 3mm screws that I found on eBay for about $6 for 100 of them. It looks like I won't need to pay McMaster-Carr's shipping charges for awhile! I should have purchased more DNA200's since I have enough batteries and designs in my head for them. Mike, when is the next Co-Op?
Here is a side view pic of the screen mount plate with the IC that is holding down the top right corner:
Here are some pics of the fully loaded sled top and bottom:
In any event, I immediately took one out and loaded up my test sled. For the most part it is good...the only major issue I see is the USB connector protrudes out the front maybe .05mm-.10mm, but I think this is because the plate was printed a bit convex...I'll make a slight adjustment in the design before I print my box mod with this spacing. One interesting thing is that my screen mount plate only really needs one screw; it's designed for up to four but usually I get by with two...the reason there are four is to leave options based upon the room of the specific design I'll insert the "holes" into. The reason it only needs one screw is that there is an IC onboard that is acting as a contact point where that screw would normally go...I'm happy with this since it will make installing the screen mount much easier in tight spaces.
The button distance from the board is spot on and the feel is pretty darn good. I'm using four 1.2 x 3mm screws that I found on eBay for about $6 for 100 of them. It looks like I won't need to pay McMaster-Carr's shipping charges for awhile! I should have purchased more DNA200's since I have enough batteries and designs in my head for them. Mike, when is the next Co-Op? Here is a side view pic of the screen mount plate with the IC that is holding down the top right corner:
Here are some pics of the fully loaded sled top and bottom:
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Here is another image of it powered up via USB:
The screen continually flashes when powered on this way. Is that normal?
EDIT: According to John at Evolv this is normal behavior without a battery attached: Screen flashing when connected to USB (no battery or PSU connected) - DNA 200 Early Adopters Forum
The screen continually flashes when powered on this way. Is that normal?
EDIT: According to John at Evolv this is normal behavior without a battery attached: Screen flashing when connected to USB (no battery or PSU connected) - DNA 200 Early Adopters Forum
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