DNA 200 Watt

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alistairs

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From VS FB:

Hey Guys,

The specs are as followed: 11.1 3 celled LiPo that is removable and user serviceable, it has an authentic Evolv DNA200 chip, a zip charging port, self adjusting 510 connector, and the exact dimensions are 3.5" x 1.9" x0.94". We do not have a final price point yet, but we will be releasing more information very soon.
-Victor

The rubberized finish is stronger on the dna 200, and it is anodized black under the finish just in case your device suffers a fall and is nicked.
-Victor

I love my three rDNAs so am excited for the DNA200 version, but a little disappointed how big it got. Its a little shorter than the Hana but significantly deeper, over 3/10 of an inch is a lot on devices this small ...
Opus 200: 3.7 x 2.3 x 0.9 = 7.66 (6.66 without ribs)
Hana V200: 3.62 x 1.57 x 0.94 = 5.34
Vaporshark DNA200: 3.5 x 1.9 x 0.94 = 6.25

Vaporshark rDNA40: 3.25 x 1.67 x 0.95 = 5.16
 
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Ryanmcg1

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They still have their heart set on the screen on the bottom. I'm sure there will be other choices.

I was hoping for them to go with the design of the beta box like rip and one of the guys on here has got from shapeways with the screen placed in between the buttons like how the board is made.
Guess it's more my problem that I over drip sometimes and would see dumping juice everywhere when tilting the mod over to see the screen to verify my settings or when I want to make adjustments.
I haven't used a vaporshark mod before so please reserve my right to change my mind down the road.
 

drmarble

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By adding two resistors and an LED to open spots on the dna200 board you get a lighted, on-board fire button. John mentioned where the pads are on the early adopter forum. The circuitry is already build in. For large orders I am sure that they will pre-install the parts. Vapor Shark will have no trouble getting their lighted fire button. Large orders will also have no trouble getting a longer ribbon for the screen. Those are a fairly standard component.
 
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dwcraig1

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Darkly spectr

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man fiddling with the rDNA40 again. got some herakles ni200 coils in.

works pretty great but these coils just prove that 40 watts is not enough for temp control. without a drag it reaches my set 500F but man I used my webcam to check the readings. full 40 watts and while taking a drag it's like hovering around 420-430 F with a peak to 480 at end of drag.

man I miss my dna 200
 

jfb7

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To be fair temperature protection isn't supposed to be about hitting the temperature limit constantly.
There are really two ways to use it as a safety feature:

(1) Vape like you would normally with power control. The temperature protection will keep you away from harmful high temperatures and dry hits. The preheat'll get it up to temperature for you faster. Other than that, it's a normal vape.
(2) Absolute maximum amount of vapor without getting a dry hit. I think that is the model you are suggesting :)

40 watts is plenty for many usages. It does depend on the coil of course.
 

Darkly spectr

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The 40 watts can't get the coil to temperature fast enough. 470-480 is what I have seen is the most used temperature and it barely reaches that under vaping. the point of TC IS hitting the set temperature. if you can't hit the set temperature then what is the point?

And harmful high temperatures. eh. Has there actually been any real research back that proved evolv's statement of liquid turning into deadly chemicals. I have never seen one and judging by them instantly jumping to 200 watts I don't expect one soon. Honestly I only think there is a real issue with people vaping coils at 400-500 watts. God I saw a guy do a build on a lipo mech and ohms law came out to 1440 watts. hell one guy just had 1000 watts and he literally vaped it...with the heat after firing the coils for like a second. that was enough to get a huge cloud...that is kinda worrying.

And purely speaking if you vape to never get a dry hit you can't go higher than 410 pretty much. cotton starts going "meh" around 420-430. Ofcourse the chance of a dry hit is reduced alot because even slightly moist cotton won't instant burn you will notice flavor dieing before a dry hit.

The problem is that with modern nickel tanks using them bajillion wraps and big diameters the 40 watts just doesn't cut it anymore. hell back in the days my dual 10 wrap 30 gauge billow had issues getting up to what I wanted.

I like my warm vapes. not super hot but nice and warm. The DNA 40 does not have enough power. it can slowly crawl up to my 500F setting but I don't want to be forced to take 5 second drags while the first 3 seconds are way below my setting. The DNA 200 gives me that UMPH and gives me that temperature instantly while the DNA 40 does not have the power to do that.

and 40 watts is useless in anything I own. arctic. needs more power. herakles. needs more power. my drippers. needs more power.
 
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jfb7

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Yeah, some coils have a lot of thermal mass and DNA 200 is great for that.

As far as 1440 watts... Ohm's Law has nothing to do with the power level they are actually getting. Battery resistance and many other things. 3S, that battery would have to be pushing over 100 amps. No way. Nobody is getting 1440 watts out of a mech mod. That is a large microwave or toaster oven. No. :p

As far as chemicals, Wikipedia for thermal decomposition. I didn't have too much trouble finding decomposition temperatures on MSDSes. It's a Thing.
 
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Darkly spectr

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Yeah, some coils have a lot of thermal mass and DNA 200 is great for that.

As far as 1440 watts... Ohm's Law has nothing to do with the power level they are actually getting. Battery resistance and many other things. 3S, that battery would have to be pushing over 100 amps. No way. Nobody is getting 1440 watts out of a mech mod. That is a large microwave or toaster oven. No. :p

As far as chemicals, Wikipedia for thermal decomposition. I didn't have too much trouble finding decomposition temperatures on MSDSes. It's a Thing.
There are lipo batteries that can handle stupid high amp loads. looking at hobbyking. turnigy's BOLT lipos can handle bursts up to 130 amps. I don't think that he is vaping 1400 watts continuously hell it was a one second drag haha. It was a pretty damn big box so I think the size could fit. Ofcourse lets say battery sag and all of that. this guy was still vaping a lipo at like 0.08. Even with a battery sag of 2 volts he is still touching 1000 watts and there are lipos that have lower sag rates than the average level ones we use in the DNA 200. It's also possible he used a 4S I don't remember. I ignored the guy because all this damn guy did was post "cloud vids yo" all over vaping with twisted's facebook.

Honestly I don't think we need to really focus on decomposition of e-juice. burning wick is more likely to give you .....
 

Cotay

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I love my three rDNAs so am excited for the DNA200 version, but a little disappointed how big it got. Its a little shorter than the Hana but significantly deeper, over 3/10 of an inch is a lot on devices this small ...
Opus 200: 3.7 x 2.3 x 0.9 = 7.66 (6.66 without ribs)
Hana V200: 3.62 x 1.57 x 0.94 = 5.34
Vaporshark DNA200: 3.5 x 1.9 x 0.94 = 6.25

Vaporshark rDNA40: 3.25 x 1.67 x 0.95 = 5.16

It isn't really all that big at 89mm x 48mm x 24mm. An SX Mini S Class is approximately 94.5 x 42mm x 25mm. Considering that VS is likely to have a 1000mAh-1300mAh LiPo in it, I'd say they did a pretty decent job keeping the dimensions down.
 
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VapingBad

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Coil temp and vape temp are not the same thing IMO, on some builds I can get a warm vape at 380 F on other's a cooler vape at 420. The temp around the coil is like a microclimate, the liquid has a fixed boiling point and extra energy is more or less latent (over simplification, but...). All the normal variables are more important to get a warm vape or not, IOM it is mainly the denseness of the vapour with air through put that gives you that sensation.

YMMV
 
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Darkly spectr

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Coil temp and vape temp are not the same thing IMO, on some builds I can get a warm vape at 380 F on other's a cooler vape at 420. The temp around the coil is like a microclimate, the liquid has a fixed boiling point and extra energy is more or less latent (over simplification, but...). All the normal variables are more important to get a warm vape or not, IOM it is mainly the denseness of the vapour with air through put that gives you that sensation.

YMMV
increased temperature will cause more vapor thus a denser vape though. The increased power will cause a warmer vape simple as that. By that logic if my juice's boiling point is like 410 then going 500 shouldn't really have any effect since going over boiling point is apparently useless.

Heat makes liquid get drawn to the coil faster. Look at good old kanthal. yes you get vapor at 30 watts(meaning it has reached boiling point) but damn shove it to 100 watts and look at that amount of vapor.

being able to go high in temperature will end up in a thicker vape since more vapor is being created by that heat. unless your wicking sucks ofcourse.

my personal experience has been pretty simpel. 350 degrees on any coil I have build or this ni200 herakles coil. weak sauce. 400. weaksauce but kinda works. 500. hell yeh. 600. where do I put all this vapor.
 

VapingBad

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increased temperature will cause more vapor thus a denser vape though. The increased power will cause a warmer vape simple as that. By that logic if my juice's boiling point is like 410 then going 500 shouldn't really have any effect since going over boiling point is apparently useless.

Heat makes liquid get drawn to the coil faster. Look at good old kanthal. yes you get vapor at 30 watts(meaning it has reached boiling point) but damn shove it to 100 watts and look at that amount of vapor.

being able to go high in temperature will end up in a thicker vape since more vapor is being created by that heat. unless your wicking sucks ofcourse.

my personal experience has been pretty simpel. 350 degrees on any coil I have build or this ni200 herakles coil. weak sauce. 400. weaksauce but kinda works. 500. hell yeh. 600. where do I put all this vapor.

Coil temp past the evaporation/boiling point will make little difference and then it is some very technical super steam layer heating the liquid, but they vapour it's self will start a evaporation/boiling point and then loose temp as an aerosol. If you you cant get a full on vape at 400 F on low/medium power builds you probably need more coil surface contact area (assuming airflow and wicking are OK), high power is a bit different and you may need to go up to 450 or more and very high power ... I don't go there so wont comment.

But YMMV and what ever keeps you off ciggies.
 

dwcraig1

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The Opus 200 is still my holy grail mod. Working great, lasting me the day. It's going to take something really special (Flask) to prompt me to "upgrade".
I'm really liking my Opus also, figured on buying a second but the price of the Vapecige box kind of got me. Still might get another Opus too in the near future, there's maybe 9 that I know of that failed so that's like 2% or less so that's a non-issue as to avoid them.
 

AtmizrOpin

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dwcraig1

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Oh Jesus, now I have to get this too. Or might cancel my VTbox200. I dunno what to do. I don't even have a PC or a laptop yet to run escribe which is a must have in my book. How much for cheapo laptop these days? Or is a PC cheaper than a laptop?
ASUS K550CA-DH31T Notebook Intel Core i3 3217U (1.80GHz) 4GB Memory 500GB HDD DVDRW HDMI Webcam Intel HD Graphics 4000 15.6" Touchscreen Windows 8 64-Bit - Newegg.com
Or really cheap:
Acer Aspire ES1-111M-C40S Notebook Intel Celeron N2840 (2.16GHz) 2GB Memory 32GB Internal Storage Intel HD Graphics 11.6" Windows 8.1 with Bing - Newegg.com
 
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