DNA 200 Watt

[retird]

Yes. Thank God for escribe.

Thx for the link but I'm going to try to get a screen with a longer ribbon cable first. I think that I will bust another one if I attempt to fixate the screen and then start moving the board around again. Not sure... Maybe I'll get a couple of standard and try a couple of longer ones.

Going to contact Evolv about it. I heard they had longer ribbon cables /screens but not sure.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Yep, I saw where someone posted that Evolv had screens with longer ribbons for the Vapor Shark to accommodate the screen position. I'll be interested to know if Evolv actually has longer ribbon screens (may eat my words later but I'm thinkin' they don't).

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Are you guys using flux for builds? I don't know how people are soldering their boards and connections etc. without flux. I CANNOT work without it. Comparing joints that have been fluxed with those that haven't, it's like night day. Flux just makes things so much easier and solid and just makes your solder, even crappy solder flow like a mini river of shiny mercury.

 

[Freedom2Vape]

Good choice in beer.you atleast know which country has the best beers

Ever tried jupiler? I prefer it to stella.

I actually prefer Hoegaarden original white

 

[turbocad6]

the only thing I use flux for is to clean my soldering tip I keep a cup of it near the iron, before each use I dip my tip and swirl it around a bit, then re tin the tip, the molten solder on the freshly tinned tip gives great heat transfer, which is what the flux does for you, gives excellent heat transfer. I use flux only on problem areas like soldering to a large chunk of brass or wiring direct to a battery, anything that's less than really clean or really needs a lot of heat transfer, but for general clean soldering of new un oxidised wire on a clean circiutboard I don't like the flux residue, makes a mess of things and not necessary at all for me

 

[KTMRider]

All metals oxidize as soon as it touches the atmosphere. The reason you get good heat transfer is because the flux removes the oxidation layer so the solder can flow to the joint you're soldering.

I use Kester's 951 liquid no-clean flux. I put some in a needle tip bottle (30ml) that I use for juices and that's perfect to apply one drop to where I'm soldering. It leaves no residue on a circuit board and that's how I've been soldering on the Evolv boards (DNA40 and DNA200). I don't use flux when soldering wires because my solder has a flux core but always when soldering on a circuit board regardless of the solder I use.

 

[HolmanGT]

the only thing I use flux for is to clean my soldering tip I keep a cup of it near the iron, before each use I dip my tip and swirl it around a bit, then re tin the tip, the molten solder on the freshly tinned tip gives great heat transfer, which is what the flux does for you, gives excellent heat transfer. I use flux only on problem areas like soldering to a large chunk of brass or wiring direct to a battery, anything that's less than really clean or really needs a lot of heat transfer, but for general clean soldering of new un oxidised wire on a clean circiutboard I don't like the flux residue, makes a mess of things and not necessary at all for me

All metals oxidize as soon as it touches the atmosphere. The reason you get good heat transfer is because the flux removes the oxidation layer so the solder can flow to the joint you're soldering.

I use Kester's 951 liquid no-clean flux. I put some in a needle tip bottle (30ml) that I use for juices and that's perfect to apply one drop to where I'm soldering. It leaves no residue on a circuit board and that's how I've been soldering on the Evolv boards (DNA40 and DNA200). I don't use flux when soldering wires because my solder has a flux core but always when soldering on a circuit board regardless of the solder I use.

Excellent response Mr. KTM,

When I read Turocad's comments about flux I wanted to say something to prevent others from taking it as "Gospel" which would be a very bad thing.
Even in a flow solder machine for circuit boards the first thing the board sees is when it passes over a fountain of liquid flux. If it is what Industry does it should be a good example for home hobbyists also.
Turbo, I guess I am picking on you but not using flux is just a very bad suggestion for DIYers to read. Also if you don't like the the mess the flux can leave get a small brush and some alcohol it comes right off. IMHO it is a very small price to pay for a very high quality solder joint.

PS - Turbo, I am not trying to be a ....-Head but I just personally and professionally disagree with you.

 

[KTMRider]

Actually, Kester's 951 is flux. It's a no-clean flux that you apply, solder and you're done. No cleaning needed as it doesn't leave a residue.

I can get lazy at times and solder w/o flux (actually, the flux core solder only) but when it comes to delicate electronics where you want to apply the least amount of heat possible, flux makes it fast and easy.

 

[HolmanGT]

Actually, Kester's 951 is flux. It's a no-clean flux that you apply, solder and you're done. No cleaning needed as it doesn't leave a residue.

I can get lazy at times and solder w/o flux (actually, the flux core solder only) but when it comes to delicate electronics where you want to apply the least amount of heat possible, flux makes it fast and easy.

Thanks KTM, I edited out my ref. to the 951.

 

[turbocad6]

guys I got no problem with you not agreeing, I wasn't saying it as advice to others really or that it was the right way, I was just answering the question of do I use flux on my builds.

I know there is always at least some oxidation, but I too use flux core and find that to be more than enough flux for me with relatively easy and clean connections like these. I think everyone should use flux though unless there comfortable doing it without, just because I don't doesn't mean I'm advising anyone not to

I gotta try some of the stuff your recommending, my flux is just messy so I only use it when I have to

 

[HolmanGT]

guys I got no problem with you not agreeing, I wasn't saying it as advice to others really or that it was the right way, I was just answering the question of do I use flux on my builds.

I know there is always at least some oxidation, but I too use flux core and find that to be more than enough flux for me with relatively easy and clean connections like these. I think everyone should use flux though unless there comfortable doing it without, just because I don't doesn't mean I'm advising anyone not to

I gotta try some of the stuff your recommending, my flux is just messy so I only use it when I have to

Gocha - Turbo,

I didn't see the post your were replying to my bad.

But if you are using the paste type Flux I agree it does make a mess and you have to be really careful when picking up paste type flux a lot of them contain acid and that can spell disaster in the long term.

The Kester liquid or GC liquid flux is very good and is pure rosin flux.

Anyway It was my mistake for not reading what you were replying to. That said a lot of people hopscotch around the threads like I do. Also I am a died in the wool believer in flux for good connections with the least amount of heat.

 

[Cotay]

guys I got no problem with you not agreeing, I wasn't saying it as advice to others really or that it was the right way, I was just answering the question of do I use flux on my builds.

I know there is always at least some oxidation, but I too use flux core and find that to be more than enough flux for me with relatively easy and clean connections like these. I think everyone should use flux though unless there comfortable doing it without, just because I don't doesn't mean I'm advising anyone not to

I gotta try some of the stuff your recommending, my flux is just messy so I only use it when I have to

I only use Kester Rosin Core Solder...no additional flux. I have some SRA [HASHTAG]#312[/HASHTAG] flux on hand if necessary, but I haven't found that I've needed it on any of my builds.

 

[SteveAdams86]

I have been out of the computer game since Windows 97, LOL. The reason I ask is today while at work installing an underground gas and water line, the customer asks me everyday what I'm vaping and type of mod. Anyways, he sed he'd give me one of his old computers that run Windows XP. So I'm checking to see if it's compatible with escribe before I tell him I'll take it. Virtualbox, no idea what you're talking about. You might be pulling your hair out if you decide to help me. So be warned. Oh Ya, it's 6:30 p.m. here in Pennsylvania.

if you dont own a pc anymore and its a good price take them up on the offer as you will need a pc to make any of the adjustments or tune anything in the escibe program. Virtual box is kind of like an emulator, an operating system within an operating system. Turn on your pc and use it, that would be called the host. Load virtual box and choose what you want to run and these other systems are called guests. They behave pretty much how you expect the operating system to and can use their applications. Its a good way for example to try a new version of windows and see how it is on your hardware, or try something completely different by loading osx, linux or even android on your pc. You want a host pc to have alteast 4gb ram ideally so you can allocate about half to your guest systems so that they can run smoothly. As it turns out escribe will work on xp, all it needs it miscrosoft .net 4 or above to work which the pc should have, if not installers can be downloaded online

Escribe will work with XP

Good to know, cheers

 

[dwcraig1]

Net framework 4 is included in the EScribe installer BTW

 

[Troll from behind]

Did run into a intresting claim, that states you don't burn your dry cotton EVEN with 200 watts on DNA200.
It did sound kinda scary, since mods shouldn't compensate for total lack of reason.
So is the claim true or false?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BlueridgeDog]

Did run into a intresting claim, that states you don't burn your dry cotton EVEN with 200 watts on DNA200.
It did sound kinda scary, since mods shouldn't compensate for total lack of reason.
So is the claim true or false?

In TC mode, the set wattage is not that significant. The set temp is. If you set your temp to 420 and watts to 200, a dry wick will not burn.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Did run into a intresting claim, that states you don't burn your dry cotton EVEN with 200 watts on DNA200.
It did sound kinda scary, since mods shouldn't compensate for total lack of reason.
So is the claim true or false?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You dont dry burn the cotton if the temp achieved at the point of regulation is below the char point! The whole thing with TP is that the mod backs of the wattage to maintain the desired temperature (and how it does this varies from mod to mod). The DNA200 will only apply 200W to reach the desired temp quickly and then it will reduce. Im sure someone with a DNA200 can weigh in with a more detailed explanation! hth!

edit: BrD beat me to it!

 

[Troll from behind]

That's what I also figured.
But how is it if the temp is set to 600, flash & burn?


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[BlueridgeDog]

That's what I also figured.
But how is it if the temp is set to 600, flash & burn?

Possibly...but setting it to 600 would imply that you like the taste of burned wick and nasty chemicals to start with.

 

[Troll from behind]

Just wondering how much "user error" board can compensate.
I strongly belive, that if you want to use 200 watts @600 on a dry cotton vaping isn't for you.


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[IanDVaypes]

You dont dry burn the cotton if the temp achieved at the point of regulation is below the char point! The whole thing with TP is that the mod backs of the wattage to maintain the desired temperature (and how it does this varies from mod to mod). The DNA200 will only apply 200W to reach the desired temp quickly and then it will reduce. Im sure someone with a DNA200 can weigh in with a more detailed explanation! hth!

edit: BrD beat me to it!

My dna 200 is set to burst at 200 watts until desired temp. My wattage setting is at 20. I've noticed that the dna will only start at 50 Watts at the highest until desired temp. I guess it's build subjective on how high the dna will burst the wattage. Maybe a thicker wire will need to be bursted at a higher wattage to reach desired temp.