come to belgium.Visit Europe, the Benelux countries specifically. It's a cheap beer over there (though my favourite cheapo beer, that and Grolsch)
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A lot of my rc car soldering was done with only rosin core solder (60/40). Same with my bikes and cars. With electronics, I like flux because it's quicker and cleaner. With rosin core only, you have to heat the joint before the rosin flows to clean it which adds more heat than necessary.so are you guys using flux core solder too? I'm a little surprised so many insisting additional flux is absolutely mandatory for something like this.
I'm using a rosin core 60/40 solder. the rosin core of the solder should be enough to reduce oxides at the points of contact and give a good solid connection. the rosin core flux does work to remove contaminants and oxidation, when dealing with relatively clean stuff to begin with I feel it's adequate for a really good solid connection, I thought that's what it's designed for. are you guys saying no?
I've used rosin core solder at work on wiring repairs that are on used oxidized wires from damaged vehicle harnesses. of course I clean them well and use flux when I can but in a pinch I can use rosin core solder to actually clean the wire and make a good joint just by overfeeding the solder into the dirty joint, you can see the solder drawing out all the oxides and actually see the flux doing it's job, after feeding a lot of excess solder into the joint allowing the excess to ruin off you will see that the joint is no longer spewing crud from the wire and the connection becomes a clean adequate joint. only point I'm making is rosin core solder does provide flux and it does actually work. I'm surprised so many feel it's inadequate. I've been soldering for years but I've never had any formal training, is there some reason I'm missing that a rosin core alone is really inadequate? I never thought it was until you guys jumped all over me on this
Apparently not a DNA200.
Grolsch is another favorite of mine. Love their bottles tooVisit Europe, the Benelux countries specifically. It's a cheap beer over there (though my favourite cheapo beer, that and Grolsch)
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Huh? The dna200 is the first high wattage mod I've owned, or anything past 60 watts that is.A lot of my rc car soldering was done with only rosin core solder (60/40). Same with my bikes and cars. With electronics, I like flux because it's quicker and cleaner. With rosin core only, you have to heat the joint before the rosin flows to clean it which adds more heat than necessary.
Apparently not a DNA200.
Grolsch is another favorite of mine. Love their bottles too
Just from looking at the pictures the quality looks pretty bad, also has a 900mah lipo. Again the .... am I supposed to do with 900mah, not even worth the box it would be shipped in.
The VapeCige's aren't going to start shipping till the 28th (from China), I have one pre-ordered. The battery used in the XPV DNa200 is the same one that's used in Evolv's reference mod. My Opus has a 1000 mah lipo and I have no complaints as to battery charge life but I'm using it @ 28 watts.
Yeah after looking a bit more at the box I retract my statement about buying it. Guess I'll stick with this ....wolf 200w until a non "cheap chinese ...." tier box mod is released.
Not according to the device moniter and chart. It only goes up to 50 Watts at the most. I'm also vaping with ti and using ti tcr.Unless your Ohms are low enough that you are running into current limit or high enough that you are running into voltage limit, it actually is likely pushing 200W:
The screen values are averages of every 250 milliseconds (four times per second -- in the beta custom fields showed real-time but it was changed because numbers changing hundreds of times per second are really hard to read), so (for example) if it only takes 50 milliseconds at 200W to get to temperature and then you're at 20W for the other 200 milliseconds, that interval is going to show (50/250)*200+(200/250)*20=40+16=56W -- the average power over the interval.
It does take a tiny bit of time to ramp up to 200W, but most likely what you are seeing is due to time averaging of the displayed value. 200W is a lot and often isn't needed very long. A thinner wire will take less time to heat, that's all, in this case less than one screen update interval. The control system is rather fast.
