At it's highest "punch" setting it gets to around 10 F degrees of the set temp or your time setting, which ever comes first.
DNA 200 Watt
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This time no Coors, come on over KTM, I'll let you hold a few of them for me. I got a deal on a 12 pack, $7.99.
The price was $18.99 but well sometimes it's who you know...........
The price was $18.99 but well sometimes it's who you know...........
Good boy haha.
anybody have any idea what was up with my soldering though. I put the lead through the switch holes. have a bit extra. Put the soldering iron's tip on the higher end of the wire. put the solder on the connection point. and then the solder flows upwards to the tip and just collects on it. Like why does it flow like a centimeter or two UPWARDS instead of melting down onto the connection point. In the end there was just a gigantic blob of solder Which then proceeded to fall on the damn board. Thank god it come off easily with no damage.
anybody have any idea what was up with my soldering though. I put the lead through the switch holes. have a bit extra. Put the soldering iron's tip on the higher end of the wire. put the solder on the connection point. and then the solder flows upwards to the tip and just collects on it. Like why does it flow like a centimeter or two UPWARDS instead of melting down onto the connection point. In the end there was just a gigantic blob of solder Which then proceeded to fall on the damn board. Thank god it come off easily with no damage.
solder follows the heat, if you heat the tip of the wire the solder will flow up towards the heat, try once you get he solder on the wire moving your tip down towards the ring on the board, once you get he ring hot enough the solder will suck into the joint giving a good connection. most solder fails just needed another second or 2 of heat
Well I got everything soldered now but good to know for my next soldering jobs
Nice!This time no Coors, come on over KTM, I'll let you hold a few of them for me. I got a deal on a 12 pack, $7.99.
The price was $18.99 but well sometimes it's who you know...........
I looked for some Juliper but I could only find it online. $32 for a 12pk but shipping was $82
Shame y'all are so far away from tori's parents's house. could of brought some over and shipped it or some .....
For me, drinking and smoking went hand in hand and there was too much temptation (desire?) to smoke when I drank so I stopped smoking and cut drinking way back. It's been a few years now and I'm not a nun so I still like a drink (beer or single malt) every once in a while and the desire to light up isn't really there anymore since I started vaping.
John confirmed they don't. There is a new thread on Evolv's forum regarding making an extension but although the zif connectors are available, the cable with the notches is harder to find.
In any case I ordered two screens from Stealthvape and one from Evolv. I guess I'll manage to at least fit one without making the connection open. Going to use some Keplar tape near the connector and inject the polymer with a long needle on each screen corner without lifting the board more than 30 degrees.... That's the plan at least.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Regarding Flux, I don't turn on my soldering station unless I have Flux in my hand.
I usually use ERSA IF8001 no-clean Flux (good for us Europeans)
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I usually use ERSA IF8001 no-clean Flux (good for us Europeans)
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Well okay then. connected the chip to the USB...and for some reason the leads that should be power down(judging by the datasheet) is....up. what the hell? And the one that should be power up doesn't even work.
edit: Ok so I did the "wire as bridge" trick to check everything. Yup even using that what should be up is down and down is up. but I think you can change that in escribe right, hell it doesn't even matter. just weird.
Also WEIRDLY after using the wire to check the buttons suddenly the button that didn't work sprung to life.
weird.
edit: Ok so I did the "wire as bridge" trick to check everything. Yup even using that what should be up is down and down is up. but I think you can change that in escribe right, hell it doesn't even matter. just weird.
Also WEIRDLY after using the wire to check the buttons suddenly the button that didn't work sprung to life.
weird.
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Try bumping your wattage up to 200 (trust me). If you only have a short burst, you may not notice it as it will want to drop down to 20 very fast....I keep mine on 200 just so I don't have the every look at anything but temp.
Likewise...I learned from an "old timer" who I am rapidly replacing. Flux prior to solder, every time, every step. I guess if I was taught to rely on flux cored solder, who knows.
I don't trust it by itself. Nothing like seeing activated Flux etching into the metal
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
so are you guys using flux core solder too? I'm a little surprised so many insisting additional flux is absolutely mandatory for something like this.
I'm using a rosin core 60/40 solder. the rosin core of the solder should be enough to reduce oxides at the points of contact and give a good solid connection. the rosin core flux does work to remove contaminants and oxidation, when dealing with relatively clean stuff to begin with I feel it's adequate for a really good solid connection, I thought that's what it's designed for. are you guys saying no?
I've used rosin core solder at work on wiring repairs that are on used oxidized wires from damaged vehicle harnesses. of course I clean them well and use flux when I can but in a pinch I can use rosin core solder to actually clean the wire and make a good joint just by overfeeding the solder into the dirty joint, you can see the solder drawing out all the oxides and actually see the flux doing it's job, after feeding a lot of excess solder into the joint allowing the excess to ruin off you will see that the joint is no longer spewing crud from the wire and the connection becomes a clean adequate joint. only point I'm making is rosin core solder does provide flux and it does actually work. I'm surprised so many feel it's inadequate. I've been soldering for years but I've never had any formal training, is there some reason I'm missing that a rosin core alone is really inadequate? I never thought it was until you guys jumped all over me on this
I'm using a rosin core 60/40 solder. the rosin core of the solder should be enough to reduce oxides at the points of contact and give a good solid connection. the rosin core flux does work to remove contaminants and oxidation, when dealing with relatively clean stuff to begin with I feel it's adequate for a really good solid connection, I thought that's what it's designed for. are you guys saying no?
I've used rosin core solder at work on wiring repairs that are on used oxidized wires from damaged vehicle harnesses. of course I clean them well and use flux when I can but in a pinch I can use rosin core solder to actually clean the wire and make a good joint just by overfeeding the solder into the dirty joint, you can see the solder drawing out all the oxides and actually see the flux doing it's job, after feeding a lot of excess solder into the joint allowing the excess to ruin off you will see that the joint is no longer spewing crud from the wire and the connection becomes a clean adequate joint. only point I'm making is rosin core solder does provide flux and it does actually work. I'm surprised so many feel it's inadequate. I've been soldering for years but I've never had any formal training, is there some reason I'm missing that a rosin core alone is really inadequate? I never thought it was until you guys jumped all over me on this
I don't use flux when soldering a DNA board but I do use it for attaching wires to switches and 510 connectors.
I've tried 200 watts before and no thank you. I got a slight burned hit, even with tc.
Visit Europe, the Benelux countries specifically. It's a cheap beer over there (though my favourite cheapo beer, that and Grolsch)Nice! [emoji14]arty:
I looked for some Juliper but I could only find it online. $32 for a 12pk but shipping was $82
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Id rather let the chip choose my burst wattage for me. It seems to know what's best
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