I make "contact coils" and they seem to be doing fine.
I fired it in short bursts on the DNA40 and it heated just like a Kanthal coil.
I fired it in short bursts on the DNA40 and it heated just like a Kanthal coil.
DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
- Thread starter Tbev
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Interesting thoughts @Dejay. My first build notes:
Single coil 11 or 12 wraps using 30 gauge Ni200 with an ID of 3MM - .20 OHMS on my Meter. .22 OHMS on the device. Nice!
Wicking material: choices choices choices. /lol Lets go quick and dirty with 3MM Ekowool since I'm a little nervous about using wire I can barely see and need a beefy wick first. Wrap on a jig first. I did not preheat the coil to sqeeze the wraps. Matter of fact I forgot to wash the coil in my excitement. Then install the wick before I mount on the Magma clone. I wanted to make sure I did not distort the coil and this seemed a bit safer for my newb first try. Almost like starting over. HA! Wow that was easy. Lets squeeze the wraps together with my finger nail. Nice! /lol Coil with wick cut and installed in my Magma. Very very carefully tighten the post screws. Prime/fill and vape! Nice!
Single coil 11 or 12 wraps using 30 gauge Ni200 with an ID of 3MM - .20 OHMS on my Meter. .22 OHMS on the device. Nice!
Wicking material: choices choices choices. /lol Lets go quick and dirty with 3MM Ekowool since I'm a little nervous about using wire I can barely see and need a beefy wick first. Wrap on a jig first. I did not preheat the coil to sqeeze the wraps. Matter of fact I forgot to wash the coil in my excitement. Then install the wick before I mount on the Magma clone. I wanted to make sure I did not distort the coil and this seemed a bit safer for my newb first try. Almost like starting over. HA! Wow that was easy. Lets squeeze the wraps together with my finger nail. Nice! /lol Coil with wick cut and installed in my Magma. Very very carefully tighten the post screws. Prime/fill and vape! Nice!
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With your Ekowool, you can set it higher than 400 degrees if you want. I forgot the # Brandon said, but it's in the video.
Quick question about the temp limit ...
I was adjusting my builds to not hit the temperature limit, sort of to be careful. BUT if it does come on, it is doing it's job, and keeping it at a safe limit, right?
So it coming on is not really a "bad thing"?
Quick question about the temp limit ...
I was adjusting my builds to not hit the temperature limit, sort of to be careful. BUT if it does come on, it is doing it's job, and keeping it at a safe limit, right?
So it coming on is not really a "bad thing"?
Interesting! Yea, with this first build and playing I've had my Temp all the way up to 550F but for me that's not my sweet spot.
The other part of your questions is challenging so here is my own early adopter views using my Magma dripper. As long as the pull/puff I normally take is satisfactory I don't even look at the screen. Of course I played with plenty of setting and with me assuming a properly saturated wick and the sweet spot temp, I can get a longer fire before the TC kicks in by LOWERING the watts aka power. As the juice in the dripper is depleted the fire time gets shorter before the TC displays. I can also taste when this happens as the flavor gets weak so it's time to saturate the wicks with drips. After I do this the fire interval returns to the "normal" time for me and before the TC displays. The other issues for me with respect to a satisfactory draw/puff is the Boost feature. So far for me my draws/puffs are a bit shorter than they are using the same dripper on my ProVari 2.5. This is a good thing I guess when discussing the TC. The temp limit is a good thing and a rock star. It's just the learning curve to find the best settings for each of us.
Given the variables and the complexity for me to try and explain this, I hope I have helped in some way. I'm sure others have thoughts which can only help all of us.
Curious. Are you guys stopping the draw when the chip hits the temp limit? My idea with this chip was that you would deliberately want to hit the temp limit as fast as possible and vape on a specific temperature. Has any of your tried yet to set the temp limit to something like 250°F and a bit above that? That would be the boiling point for a mixture of 80% VG and 20% water. Probably with PG etc it will be hard to know the exact boiling point, and probably you will want to be quite a bit above it.
Good comments and questions; I'm just learning too...
I'm guessing the idea is to find the ideal temp for your particular taste, for your given coil/wick.
I've noticed that changing the temp lower (or higher) when i want a cooler or hotter vape, is handy.
Given that, do we set the watts at where the coil reaches that temp, or above, and what are the benefits of either?
(if you want to go higher in temp, then I'm sure we need to set the watts higher if we are using watts as a limiter)
I forget what Brandon said about that...
I have my 10 wrap 30g Ni200, 2mm ID contact coil coming in at .16 ohms and with Japanese cotton, set at 490 degrees, and 25 watts.
The watts seem to be closer to 20w or less when it reaches 490.
I'm guessing the idea is to find the ideal temp for your particular taste, for your given coil/wick.
I've noticed that changing the temp lower (or higher) when i want a cooler or hotter vape, is handy.
Given that, do we set the watts at where the coil reaches that temp, or above, and what are the benefits of either?
(if you want to go higher in temp, then I'm sure we need to set the watts higher if we are using watts as a limiter)
I forget what Brandon said about that...
I have my 10 wrap 30g Ni200, 2mm ID contact coil coming in at .16 ohms and with Japanese cotton, set at 490 degrees, and 25 watts.
The watts seem to be closer to 20w or less when it reaches 490.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...cial-dna-40-introduction-16.html#post14413412
check this graph out here ^^^ for one, it calculates what happens when you overshoot your power to your desired temp.
check this graph out here ^^^ for one, it calculates what happens when you overshoot your power to your desired temp.
From Brandon's explanation, I got that the 400 degrees is the temperature right below cotton's scorch point of 410.
If the limit is 400, your cotton will NEVER burn, even if vaped dry. That is why I am using 400. A few of my friends have gone to 450, and notice a slight effect if it gets dry, but nothing like a sub-ohm dripper fire-and-death dry hit.
He also said like 5 times, that temperature and wattage are not the same. (I don't understand all of that 100%)
I understood it to be that if you set your temp, you can still adjust your wattage to give you more or less vapor. He and PBusardo talk about that in the beginning of the video. The temp is the "gas" and the wattage is the "torque" ..... that means nothing to me.
LOL
So I have been setting my temp to 400 for my cotton wick, and adjusting my wattage up and down, from around 20-30 watts. It's at 30 watts right now, and I drove 3 hrs to my folks' and back, with no dry hits at all. I did notice a couple of times where the flavor died off, so drew some juice into the Kayfun, and the flavor was back. I am assuming it got a bit dry, but sure not like a burnt hit or anything.
If the limit is 400, your cotton will NEVER burn, even if vaped dry. That is why I am using 400. A few of my friends have gone to 450, and notice a slight effect if it gets dry, but nothing like a sub-ohm dripper fire-and-death dry hit.
He also said like 5 times, that temperature and wattage are not the same. (I don't understand all of that 100%)
I understood it to be that if you set your temp, you can still adjust your wattage to give you more or less vapor. He and PBusardo talk about that in the beginning of the video. The temp is the "gas" and the wattage is the "torque" ..... that means nothing to me.
LOLSo I have been setting my temp to 400 for my cotton wick, and adjusting my wattage up and down, from around 20-30 watts. It's at 30 watts right now, and I drove 3 hrs to my folks' and back, with no dry hits at all. I did notice a couple of times where the flavor died off, so drew some juice into the Kayfun, and the flavor was back. I am assuming it got a bit dry, but sure not like a burnt hit or anything.
I think mostly power / watts don't matter if you set to 400. Depends on your build / airflow. I think my first attempt is rather bad because it hits temp control quickly at then only delivers 7-10 watts. My build / wicking is bad. So whatever I set my watts to doesn't matter. If I set them lower the only thing that would change is that I have a bigger delay until I get vapor or that I have really low vapor production. If you limit to 400°F you can basically set the power to 40 watts and forget about it. Watts only matter if you have such a high vapor production (good coil building, high airflow and dual / quad coil). I think I have always vaped at far higher temperatures than 450°F.
It's like driving your car in the city in a low speed zone, it doesn't matter if you accelerate fast or slow because you'll hit the speed limit soon enough. It's a bad analogy but I hope you get it
It's like driving your car in the city in a low speed zone, it doesn't matter if you accelerate fast or slow because you'll hit the speed limit soon enough. It's a bad analogy but I hope you get it
Spent the evening playing with my DNA40. Thrown mesh, cotton and Eko at it in various atty's to try and start to get to grips with it.
Think I am landing where has been suggest....think of temperature control as wick protection. In time I am sure we will see correlated lists for cotton, rayon etc etc. So if using cotton set temp at 400 and away you go.
40 does play nicely with mesh I was pleased to find out and set at 450 gave me no issues through the wattages.
My Stumpy Rose usually sits on this device so have copied my normal 2.5mm Eko build with 10 wraps of 28 Ni 200 getting me 0.16. Set at 490 temp and 14 watts.
Going to run that for a day or two to see how it goes but has been a lot of fun !
Think I am landing where has been suggest....think of temperature control as wick protection. In time I am sure we will see correlated lists for cotton, rayon etc etc. So if using cotton set temp at 400 and away you go.
40 does play nicely with mesh I was pleased to find out and set at 450 gave me no issues through the wattages.
My Stumpy Rose usually sits on this device so have copied my normal 2.5mm Eko build with 10 wraps of 28 Ni 200 getting me 0.16. Set at 490 temp and 14 watts.
Going to run that for a day or two to see how it goes but has been a lot of fun !
Reduced to 430 to see if there was a difference in the vape.
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
yo! im rolling with this set up
15 wraps, 5/32" CD, 28ga, ni200, single coil.
couple things:
if you can, wrap your leads around the post screws... they are way less fragile that way rather than going through the post holes.
i was having issues with not being able to clamp the wire down hard enough through the post holes with out clipping the wire. i was getting readings around .22 ohm at first and then i would wick/juice it up, take couple puffs and then all of a sudden it would work its way down to something like .09 ohm. ...!
i asked brandon at evolv if the preheat feature was causing this phenomenon. he said "The preheat feature does not affect the resistance in any way". and also offered to call me to try a couple things, pretty cool of him!
after fiddling with it some more yesterday i figured out the screws were coming loose almost right away. duh! lol.
so yeah, wrap them leads ya'll!
also, it seem like good coil building techniques are crucial since you cant heat the coils up to a glow to check how the coil is performing. any time i have heated them up to a glow i get a weird/really gross flavor. also, the coil looses its perfect shape. so for me, its wrap very carefully and pray for no hot spots/legs. although, looking at the coil for where vapor production comes from is a way to look for hot spots, i found.
one other thing, if you dont wash your coils before firing your coil for the first time, dont press the button for too long. the oils from your hand will heat up really fast and cause the wire to glow red on the spots of the coil that are coated in oil. at first, do a few small short bursts to slow cook that oil off.
15 wraps, 5/32" CD, 28ga, ni200, single coil.
couple things:
if you can, wrap your leads around the post screws... they are way less fragile that way rather than going through the post holes.
i was having issues with not being able to clamp the wire down hard enough through the post holes with out clipping the wire. i was getting readings around .22 ohm at first and then i would wick/juice it up, take couple puffs and then all of a sudden it would work its way down to something like .09 ohm. ...!
i asked brandon at evolv if the preheat feature was causing this phenomenon. he said "The preheat feature does not affect the resistance in any way". and also offered to call me to try a couple things, pretty cool of him!
after fiddling with it some more yesterday i figured out the screws were coming loose almost right away. duh! lol.
so yeah, wrap them leads ya'll!
also, it seem like good coil building techniques are crucial since you cant heat the coils up to a glow to check how the coil is performing. any time i have heated them up to a glow i get a weird/really gross flavor. also, the coil looses its perfect shape. so for me, its wrap very carefully and pray for no hot spots/legs. although, looking at the coil for where vapor production comes from is a way to look for hot spots, i found.
one other thing, if you dont wash your coils before firing your coil for the first time, dont press the button for too long. the oils from your hand will heat up really fast and cause the wire to glow red on the spots of the coil that are coated in oil. at first, do a few small short bursts to slow cook that oil off.
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wait what? you had your kayfun at 30watts? Now I am more confused than ever.
My kayfun is set to 450 degrees at 17watts and vapes like a charm.
QUESTION!!! Can my freaking wraps touch now or not? My kayfun is set up with touching coils on the kayfun and it works awesome but I keep hearing that I would not get the full temp control unless my coils are spaced. Help would be appreciated folks.
My kayfun is set to 450 degrees at 17watts and vapes like a charm.
QUESTION!!! Can my freaking wraps touch now or not? My kayfun is set up with touching coils on the kayfun and it works awesome but I keep hearing that I would not get the full temp control unless my coils are spaced. Help would be appreciated folks.
From Brandon's explanation, I got that the 400 degrees is the temperature right below cotton's scorch point of 410.
If the limit is 400, your cotton will NEVER burn, even if vaped dry. That is why I am using 400. A few of my friends have gone to 450, and notice a slight effect if it gets dry, but nothing like a sub-ohm dripper fire-and-death dry hit.
He also said like 5 times, that temperature and wattage are not the same. (I don't understand all of that 100%)
I understood it to be that if you set your temp, you can still adjust your wattage to give you more or less vapor. He and PBusardo talk about that in the beginning of the video. The temp is the "gas" and the wattage is the "torque" ..... that means nothing to me.
So I have been setting my temp to 400 for my cotton wick, and adjusting my wattage up and down, from around 20-30 watts. It's at 30 watts right now, and I drove 3 hrs to my folks' and back, with no dry hits at all. I did notice a couple of times where the flavor died off, so drew some juice into the Kayfun, and the flavor was back. I am assuming it got a bit dry, but sure not like a burnt hit or anything.
HOLY POTATO!!!! I just set my kayfun to 30watts at 400 degrees and its freaking amazing. Thanks now I am even more confused
EDIT: Never mind lol! I think I'm tired I didn't have the same juice in my DNA 40 build. No wonder it's missing that caramel flavor because it's APPLE hahaha. I just got desensitized to the juice.
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Well I haven't nailed this yet. I'm still missing flavor when comparing directly to my kanthal dual coil build on my other magma on the eVic S. The dual coil build (10 wrap ID 2.9mm NI200) on my DNA40 is putting out huge amounts of vapor but I get a distinct caramel flavor on the micro contact coil that I just don't get from my NI spaced bigger nickel build. The kanthal is contact micro coil with 1.5mm ID. Airflow, juice, wicking material and watts is exactly the same.
Maybe contact coils create more flavor or the bigger coil just has a less optimal airflow?
Any ideas?
I guess I'll try contact coils again next lol.
EDIT: Hmm maybe it's simply that the micro contact coils get hotter. My nickel build on the DNA isn't temperature limited when I'm vaping at 20 watts. It won't hit the temperature limit But even if I go up to 35 watts I get a hotter and denser vape but flavor is still lacking.
----
PS: I posted this in the DNA40 thread but it rather belongs here, but turns out this build isn't that good still lol.
-----------------------------
Well I haven't nailed this yet. I'm still missing flavor when comparing directly to my kanthal dual coil build on my other magma on the eVic S. The dual coil build (10 wrap ID 2.9mm NI200) on my DNA40 is putting out huge amounts of vapor but I get a distinct caramel flavor on the micro contact coil that I just don't get from my NI spaced bigger nickel build. The kanthal is contact micro coil with 1.5mm ID. Airflow, juice, wicking material and watts is exactly the same.
Maybe contact coils create more flavor or the bigger coil just has a less optimal airflow?
Any ideas?
I guess I'll try contact coils again next lol.
EDIT: Hmm maybe it's simply that the micro contact coils get hotter. My nickel build on the DNA isn't temperature limited when I'm vaping at 20 watts. It won't hit the temperature limit But even if I go up to 35 watts I get a hotter and denser vape but flavor is still lacking.
----
PS: I posted this in the DNA40 thread but it rather belongs here, but turns out this build isn't that good still lol.
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OK, but how many watts is it actually running at? Remember, once it hits 400 degrees, which is probably very quickly, it will back off the wattage.
For sure I am just amazed that I can actually vape it at that. Hits 20 and than goes down I just didn't think of the fact that I can basically put the wattage ANYWHERE I want.
I am still confused on this touchy coil stuff and none touchy. My kayfun where the coils touch works amazing while my first 4 attempts a none touching coils has been a disaster as of right now.
I am still confused on this touchy coil stuff and none touchy. My kayfun where the coils touch works amazing while my first 4 attempts a none touching coils has been a disaster as of right now.
Hey do what works for you I'm mostly just curious about how / if contact coils work. I might easily be totally wrong about that lol.
I'm mostly just curious about how / if contact coils work. I might easily be totally wrong about that lol.
My coils are just like your normal micro coil build with kanathal and that was the first build I made on my dna 40 with nickel and thats also the only thing that works now that I tried none touching coils. I just suck at this stuff lol.
Where are you from anyways? Wonder about it the entire time with the "Europe "
Where are you from anyways? Wonder about it the entire time with the "Europe "
Hey do what works for you
Well lol as soon as I reveal that the NSA and who knows else can cross reference my metadata and figure our a more complete profile. Staying behind 7 proxies only works if you don't lift the veil of anonymity yourself
Incidentially though the name of my motherland is actually showing up below your (dogs?) picture? - Status
