DNA modders' board project
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The dna board does give a mighty fine regulated vape in the lower to mid wattage range. For me I need the 11-12 Watts or more though.
Just haven't figured out yet what's up. Why I can't get more than 10 Watts and why the Watts fluctuate each time the button is pressed. And no the red light is not being activated - wattage fluctuations occurs throughout the range.
I wired with 20 gauge on the battery and output, and 24 gauge at the trimmer and switch as per recommended size in the datasheet.
I tried 2, 18650 AW IMR 2000mAh batts in parallel with no change in results.
Next up is to shorten the wiring run and to measure the amps and volts without the watts meter in line. Will post when I have that data.
Just haven't figured out yet what's up. Why I can't get more than 10 Watts and why the Watts fluctuate each time the button is pressed. And no the red light is not being activated - wattage fluctuations occurs throughout the range.
I wired with 20 gauge on the battery and output, and 24 gauge at the trimmer and switch as per recommended size in the datasheet.
I tried 2, 18650 AW IMR 2000mAh batts in parallel with no change in results.
Next up is to shorten the wiring run and to measure the amps and volts without the watts meter in line. Will post when I have that data.
Got faith in ya mamu....you'll figure it out.....can't wait to get my parts and bobbles to build one...am jealous at this point....
I've wired up 2 different DNA 12's and I can't get either one to go over 5.5 watts. Every time I go above 5.5 watts the red error light comes on. I've tried both AW IMR 18650 1600 mah battery and the MNKE 26650 4000 mah battery. I've tried 3 different potentiometers and the 1K works better. I soldered header pins on one and 20 gauge wire on the other. I can't get either to go over 3.6 volts with 2 different cartos that are 2.2 ohm. I'm puzzled.
So much for easy. To be honest, I could easily live with 10W and change, but all this fluctuation isn't really awe inspiring. I sure hope you guys can figure this out, and/or someone from Evolv can chime in in an appropriate area of the forum. I wonder if manufacturers are allowed in the modding forum?
are you feeding power to both at the same time? and using just one fire button for both?
I've wired up 2 different DNA 12's and I can't get either one to go over 5.5 watts. Every time I go above 5.5 watts the red error light comes on. I've tried both AW IMR 18650 1600 mah battery and the MNKE 26650 4000 mah battery. I've tried 3 different potentiometers and the 1K works better. I soldered header pins on one and 20 gauge wire on the other. I can't get either to go over 3.6 volts with 2 different cartos that are 2.2 ohm. I'm puzzled.
I shortened the wiring run as much as I could between the batt-to-board and the board-to-output and am now getting 11.2 Watts max. So Ive increased the Watts a bit by shortening the run. Shortening the run also helped with the Watts fluctuation when repeatedly pressing the atty switch, more stable now. Now its fluctuating by 0.1 0.2 Watts when before it was fluctuating by as much as 0.5 Watts.
I soldered 20 gauge wires directly to the batt + and poles and bypassed the batt holder didnt change anything so the batt holder wasnt creating a problem. Brandon had suggested I make sure the batt holder is rated for 5 Amps and I wasn't sure what it was so it was good to know that the batt holder wasn't a prob.
I did measurements with and without the watts meter - there were no significant differences in Watts. The watts meter actually gave me a smudge of a better reading. Im also using an auxiliary battery source to operate the watts meter so it wont draw off the source batt.
Measurements were taken using one 18650 AW IMR 2000mAh batt and a 1K ohm trimmer.
Here's the data with/without the watts meter (only did max output as there's not a prob with min output):
1.5 ohm DCC: with watts meter = 11.2W, 2.65A, 4.24V ::: without = 10.8W, 2.55A, 4.24V
2.5 ohm DCC: with watts meter = 11.1W, 2.09A, 5.34V ::: without = 11W, 2.05A, 5.36V
Standard 3 ohm SCC: with watts meter = 11.1W, 1.92A, 5.76V ::: without = 11W, 1.91A, 5.75V
510 standard atty (2.4 ohm): with watts meter = 11.2W, 2.14A, 5.22V ::: max = 11W, 2.10A, 5.22V
I would have expected the watts meter to give lower results cuz the probes did add to the wiring run, but it didn't so can reliably use it to take measurements. Of course, the wiring gauge from the watts meter is HUGE - so maybe that helped too.
I am excited that I was able to get 11.2 Watts!! Now trying to figure out what next to do to get 12 Watts.
If anyone thinks of anything else I can try to get to 12 Watts, let me know.
I soldered 20 gauge wires directly to the batt + and poles and bypassed the batt holder didnt change anything so the batt holder wasnt creating a problem. Brandon had suggested I make sure the batt holder is rated for 5 Amps and I wasn't sure what it was so it was good to know that the batt holder wasn't a prob.
I did measurements with and without the watts meter - there were no significant differences in Watts. The watts meter actually gave me a smudge of a better reading. Im also using an auxiliary battery source to operate the watts meter so it wont draw off the source batt.
Measurements were taken using one 18650 AW IMR 2000mAh batt and a 1K ohm trimmer.
Here's the data with/without the watts meter (only did max output as there's not a prob with min output):
1.5 ohm DCC: with watts meter = 11.2W, 2.65A, 4.24V ::: without = 10.8W, 2.55A, 4.24V
2.5 ohm DCC: with watts meter = 11.1W, 2.09A, 5.34V ::: without = 11W, 2.05A, 5.36V
Standard 3 ohm SCC: with watts meter = 11.1W, 1.92A, 5.76V ::: without = 11W, 1.91A, 5.75V
510 standard atty (2.4 ohm): with watts meter = 11.2W, 2.14A, 5.22V ::: max = 11W, 2.10A, 5.22V
I would have expected the watts meter to give lower results cuz the probes did add to the wiring run, but it didn't so can reliably use it to take measurements. Of course, the wiring gauge from the watts meter is HUGE - so maybe that helped too.
I am excited that I was able to get 11.2 Watts!! Now trying to figure out what next to do to get 12 Watts.
If anyone thinks of anything else I can try to get to 12 Watts, let me know.
Damn, your good mamu....almost there....only thing I can think of is to eliminate the breadboard connections and the "clamp connections" of the meter....but you are better at this than I....just an idea....
oh, ordered the meter today....June 5 delivery date....does the instruction manual for the meter say anything about meter accuracy (example +/- 2%)
oh, ordered the meter today....June 5 delivery date....does the instruction manual for the meter say anything about meter accuracy (example +/- 2%)
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No, I only power one at a time. The one with the 20 gauge wire has a big switch that is dangling from the board and you can't see it in the pic. I will try to shorten up my wires to see if it helps.
I was thinking along those lines too. Take away the breadboard and misc connections, get down to just the bare bones of the circuit with as short as possible wiring run and maybe good to go with 12 Watts. There is one more thing I changed other than re-working the wiring that may or may not apply - I changed from a 10K ohm trimmer to a 1K ohm trimmer. The 10K ohm trimmer I had maxed at +11K ohm so wasn't sure if that affected things or not, so used the 1K ohm trimmer this time around.
I tell ya though to see the 11+ Watts register totally made my day!! And the time I spent getting there worth it.
Dang... 3 weeks to get your meter? I ordered mine from ebay and got it within a few days...
Turnigy 130 amp Watt Meter Power Analyser - Nice!
The manual doesn't state accuracy, just instructions and cautions for use.
yep, 3 weeks estimated per ebay info from seller in Canada, but hoping for faster shipping....buyers who also bought this indicate fast shipping....so we will see....
Edit: just got shipping notification...shipping today : USA Air Small Packets ....should have it in 4-5 days....
Edit: just got shipping notification...shipping today : USA Air Small Packets ....should have it in 4-5 days....
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Following this thread closely. I've got a few questions:
Have you tried reversing the polarity on the trimmer? Saw it mentioned in the data sheet.
Tried any of the worm gear trimmers?
Reversed polarity to atty connector?
Tried a set resistor in the trimmer loop and see if flucuation stabilizes?
Doubt any above would make a difference, but sometimes you never know.
I was thinking of getting a Kick for my mini Grip, it runs on an 18500. I think I can fit one of these in and not go to 18350. If I could set it to a certain wattage with a resistor I'd leave it like that to save space.
Have you tried reversing the polarity on the trimmer? Saw it mentioned in the data sheet.
Tried any of the worm gear trimmers?
Reversed polarity to atty connector?
Tried a set resistor in the trimmer loop and see if flucuation stabilizes?
Doubt any above would make a difference, but sometimes you never know.
I was thinking of getting a Kick for my mini Grip, it runs on an 18500. I think I can fit one of these in and not go to 18350. If I could set it to a certain wattage with a resistor I'd leave it like that to save space.
Reversing the polarity on the trimmer would only make the low to high resistance go clockwise or counter clockwise as you turn the knob.
By worm gear trimmers I assume you're referring to the multi-turn trimmers with a mini brass screw for adjustment? - No haven't tried it and don't think it would change the results. With the single-turn trimmer I'm using the resistance is stable wherever it's set.
Reversed polarity to atty connector? How would that help the wattage? The resistance value of the carto/atty will stay the same. If you then screw an atty or carto on the connector you may then have an unsafe situation with the reverse polarity of the connector.
Set resistor in the trimmer loop? I don't believe the fluctuations in Watts is from the trimmer.
If you remove the trimmer from the circuit and put a jumper between pins 7 and 8 on the board you're setting max Watts. Which in my case is now 11.2 Watts. If I wanted to remove the variable Watts option and only vape at the max Watts capable, then no trimmer is needed. I would simply insert a jumper between pins 7 and 8 on the board and leave pin 9 open.
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I wired 2 boards together piggyback style which was easy by simply creating a solder bridge pin-to-pin.
I wanted to keep the wiring run a bit long for now cuz not sure yet what mod I'm going to do with it. With a shorter run I might have gotten higher Watts.
For these tests I used one 18650 AW IMR 2000mAh batt and a 1K ohm trimmer.
1.5 ohm DCC: min = 10.5W, 2.57A, 4.12V ::: **max = 21.9W, 3.7A, 5.91V
2.5 ohm DCC: min = 10.8W, 2.06A, 5.28V ::: max = 14.2W, 2.36A, 6.04V
Standard 3 ohm SCC: min = 11W, 1.92A, 5.74V ::: max = 12.3W, 2.04A, 6.05V
510 standard atty (2.4 ohm): min = 10.8W, 2.12A, 5.09V ::: max = 15.2W, 2.48A, 6.04V
**max Watts is not stable for the 1.5 ohm DC carto. The red light kept activating so the Watts were widely fluctuating. Lowering the Watts to 20 gave a stable output. The max Watts for the other cartos/atty were stable.
So using dual piggybacked boards I was able to vape a 1.5 ohm DCC at 20 Watts. It was a mighty powerful vape, but not sumfin I would vape at again. Maybe lower it to 16 or 17 Watts.
$70 for dual boards is not really feasible cost wise. Will most likely put this setup in one mod only. That is unless I get addicted to vaping at these higher than high Watts. LOLOLOL!!
Max with 1.5 ohm DCC:
I wanted to keep the wiring run a bit long for now cuz not sure yet what mod I'm going to do with it. With a shorter run I might have gotten higher Watts.
For these tests I used one 18650 AW IMR 2000mAh batt and a 1K ohm trimmer.
1.5 ohm DCC: min = 10.5W, 2.57A, 4.12V ::: **max = 21.9W, 3.7A, 5.91V
2.5 ohm DCC: min = 10.8W, 2.06A, 5.28V ::: max = 14.2W, 2.36A, 6.04V
Standard 3 ohm SCC: min = 11W, 1.92A, 5.74V ::: max = 12.3W, 2.04A, 6.05V
510 standard atty (2.4 ohm): min = 10.8W, 2.12A, 5.09V ::: max = 15.2W, 2.48A, 6.04V
**max Watts is not stable for the 1.5 ohm DC carto. The red light kept activating so the Watts were widely fluctuating. Lowering the Watts to 20 gave a stable output. The max Watts for the other cartos/atty were stable.
So using dual piggybacked boards I was able to vape a 1.5 ohm DCC at 20 Watts. It was a mighty powerful vape, but not sumfin I would vape at again. Maybe lower it to 16 or 17 Watts.
$70 for dual boards is not really feasible cost wise. Will most likely put this setup in one mod only. That is unless I get addicted to vaping at these higher than high Watts. LOLOLOL!!
Max with 1.5 ohm DCC:
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Nice work mamu.....high wattage vaping for me is 10 watts.....will be a treat to see the dress ya put on the DNA package....seems everyone wants your mod creations....
So using dual piggybacked boards I was able to vape a 1.5 ohm DCC at 20 Watts. It was a mighty powerful vape, but not sumfin I would vape at again. Maybe lower it to 16 or 17 Watts.
Yikes! 20W, I hope you were vaping asbestos juice. Most of the juice I vape tastes burnt over about 5V and change on a 2.5-2.8 ohm Fusion carto. With a piggy backed system, the minimum power would be too high for me.
Great job Mamu getting this thing over 11W. If I can replicate that with my noob skill set, I'll be happy. 11W is more than enough for me.
Did you try parallel 18650's since shortening the wire run?
I shortened up the wires on the wired DNA and now I can get it up to 11 watts. I think the thing that was bad on mine was my battery contacts. I'm going to have to make some copper contacts for the battery box. The steel spring in my battery box needed a lot of pressure against the battery for it to fire at over 5.5 watts. I think that's why I was getting the red light.
mamu, maybe it's my poor english, but I don't understand how you connected two boards.
1. Did you use a single pot (contacts on both boards connected together) or doubled one, each resistor to each board?
2. According to voltages, you connected both to one power supply, but what about outputs? You just connected them in parallel? Plus to plus and minus to minus? Without shottky diodes? If so, is it documented somewhere? I mean, every board is a little different, so output voltages are also different. Is it possible to use them simply in parallel? Or you did a trick?
P.S. for me even 10-12 watts is too much, but my friend wants a power supply with approx 20 watts, but he is not so powerful in schematics
1. Did you use a single pot (contacts on both boards connected together) or doubled one, each resistor to each board?
2. According to voltages, you connected both to one power supply, but what about outputs? You just connected them in parallel? Plus to plus and minus to minus? Without shottky diodes? If so, is it documented somewhere? I mean, every board is a little different, so output voltages are also different. Is it possible to use them simply in parallel? Or you did a trick?
P.S. for me even 10-12 watts is too much, but my friend wants a power supply with approx 20 watts, but he is not so powerful in schematics
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