DNA modders' board project

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alekos557

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Followed your script Mamu, and tried my hand at one. Thank you for posting. This thread is a priceless source of inspiration.
vw2001.jpg
vw003.jpg
vw002.jpg

Have to try to do better with the wiring on the next one, and make it outside adjustable.
 

mamu

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Credit goes to Mamu for the discovery for the issue. According to Brandon it was an easy fix in component specs once they realized what happened. They will swap out any board that runs into the issue.

Big Kudos to both Breaktru and Mamu for the work they've done with the dna and the addition to the knowledge base for both modders and Evolv.

I had fun with my new toy and am patiently (NOT lol) waiting to play with the revised board. :laugh:

DARN! I thought I had an original idea!

I built this a few nights ago, and was gonna post a tutorial, but yours is sooooo much cleaner looking.
View attachment 106727
I used a CGR 18650CH instead of a AW battery tho.

Here's to a fistfull of dna:toast:

Yours is original in its build Cowboy. Hope you do decide to post a tutorial for modders who want to build one like it. win-win!!

Followed your script Mamu, and tried my hand at one. Thank you for posting. This thread is a priceless source of inspiration.
vw002.jpg

Have to try to do better with the wiring on the next one, and make it outside adjustable.

I love what you've done alekos. Did you carve and shape the wood? The design and form factor is awesome.
 

hificat101

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Your pictures gave me an idea what to do with my chip alekos. I may remove the bottom feed goodies from "A Special Kind of Madness" I got from you, and replace with DNA circuitry. If I got the right sized pot/knob combo, I could pop the knob through the sqwonk hole. Problem is I'd have to seal the connector.

And it's not that I don't like it (what's not to like). I just honestly haven't used it hardly at all since I purchased it. I've been waiting (and waiting, and waiting) for Ikenvape to open back up so I can get a 1.5 ohm I06 atty to pop on it. It sits out in a prominent place where I can gawk at how gorgeous it is.
 

mamu

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I received the revised DNA boards this morning.

I tested the following attys/cartos using an AW IMR 2000mAh batt and measurements using a watts meter: 1.5 ohm DCC, 2.5 ohm DCC, 2.2 ohm SCC, 3 ohm SCC, 1.6 ohm LR atty, 2.4 ohm Std atty.

Wattage fluctuates +/- 0.1 from the preset Watts level when repeatedly pressing the atty switch, and occasionally +/- 0.2, so no change there from the initial board.

All the attys/cartos maintained their preset wattage level from 5W to 11W (except for the small +/- fluctuations), except the 1.5 ohm DCC and the 1.6 ohm LR atty at the 5 and 6 wattage levels (they wouldn't go that low), then from 7W to 11W they were maintaining the preset wattage level.

Measurements at the max wattage setting (no - didn't get that magic 12W mark - got real close though with the 1.5 ohm DCC) varied like it did with the initial board, but with a higher wattage variance from 11.3W - 11.9W for the range of attys/cartos I tested. Occasionally the red light would activate causing the Watts to widely fluctuate.

Min Watts:
1.5 ohm DCC: 6.6W, 3.24V, 2.05A
2.5 ohm DCC: 4.7W, 3.48V, 1.34A
2.2 ohm SCC: 4.7W, 3.29V, 1.43A
3.0 ohm SCC: 4.7W, 3.82V, 1.23A
1.6 ohm LR atty: 6.2W, 3.11V, 2.0A
2.4 ohm Std. atty: 4.7W, 3.4V, 1.38A

Max Watts:
1.5 ohm DCC: 11.9W, 4.33V, 2.75A
2.5 ohm DCC: 11.6W, 5.46V, 2.13A
2.2 ohm SCC: 11.7W, 5.22V, 2.24A
3.0 ohm SCC: 11.3W, 5.92V, 1.91A
1.6 ohm LR atty: 11.8W, 4.52V, 2.62A
2.4 ohm Std. atty: 11.6W, 5.35V, 2.17A

So if you want to vape at max Watts, it looks like whatever atty/carto you're using determines what exactly that will be. As it appears, the lower the resistance of the atty/carto the higher the max Watts.

The above measurements were taken with a fully charged batt. After doing some more min and max tests I found that the max Watts for the attys/cartos was maintained when the batt was fully charged or nearly fully charged. When the batt's voltage dropped to about 3.6v-3.7v, there was a loss of -0.3 to -0.5 Watts from the max Watts. When using less than max Watts, the selected wattage level was maintained til the batt was around 3.5v though.

I also found sumfin curious. When the batt's voltage is around 3.6v-3.7v, the min Watts for the 1.5 ohm DCC carto and 1.6 ohm LR atty was lower than it was with a fully charged batt, whereas the rest of the attys/cartos still had a 4.7 min wattage level.
 
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mamu

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I wired another board and took measurements from this board. I really like how fast I'm able to get up and going as the wiring is super easy.

I didn't hit 12W with that board either as it was essentially the exact same measurements as the 1st board... so I wired a 3rd board and took measurements. I realize that there's not any significant difference really with getting 11.9W vs 12W, but dang... I just wanted to see 12 Watts. :laugh: and I did with this 3rd board.

Min Watts:
1.5 ohm DCC: 7.0W, 3.31V, 2.12A
2.5 ohm DCC: 4.8W, 3.5V, 1.36A
2.2 ohm SCC: 5.0W, 3.4V, 1.48A
3.0 ohm SCC: 4.8W, 3.88V, 1.24A
1.6 ohm LR atty: 7.0W, 3.27V, 2.14A
2.4 ohm Std. atty: 4.8W, 3.39V, 1.43A

Max Watts:
1.5 ohm DCC: 12.0W, 4.31V, 2.78A
2.5 ohm DCC: 11.8W, 5.48V, 2.15A
2.2 ohm SCC: 11.8W, 5.16V, 2.29A
3.0 ohm SCC: 11.4W, 5.95V, 1.92A
1.6 ohm LR atty: 12.0W, 4.18V, 2.88A
2.4 ohm Std. atty: 11.9W, 5.34V, 2.23A

The 1.5 ohm DCC peaked at 12W, but only for the first second of pressing the atty switch then would drop down to 11.9W, while the 1.6 ohm LR atty consistently remained at 12W.

I have no idea how to explain why the max Watts of the 3 ohm SCC peaked at only 11.4W (1st board it was 11.3W) other than this carto had the highest resistance and had the highest voltage measurement with the lowest amps measurement of all the attys/cartos I tested. Or why the min Watts of the 1.5 ohm DCC and 1.6 ohm LR atty was 7.0W (1st board it was 6.6W and 6.2W respectively). These two had the lowest voltage measurements with the highest amps measurements.

Maybe it's the way the DNA is configured to output volts and amps at a specific resistance??

And I just had to take a pic of the DNA hitting the magic 12 Watts mark! woohoo!
dna-max.jpg
 

mamu

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I finished the dual DNA board wiring and got my Phidias up and running again.

Here's the measurements...

Min Watts:
1.5 ohm DCC: 9.6W, 3.87V, 2.48A
2.5 ohm DCC: 9.7W, 4.99V, 1.95A
2.2 ohm SCC: 9.6W, 4.71V, 2.04A
3.0 ohm SCC: 9.8W, 5.33V, 1.78A
1.6 ohm LR atty: 9.5W, 3.75V, 2.55A
2.4 ohm Std. atty: 9.7W, 4.82V, 2.01A

Max Watts:
1.5 ohm DCC: 22.6W, 5.92V, 3.81A
2.5 ohm DCC: 14.2W, 6.0V, 2.36A
2.2 ohm SCC: 16.6W, 5.99V, 2.78A
3.0 ohm SCC: 11.7W, 6.01V, 1.94A
1.6 ohm LR atty: ---
2.4 ohm Std. atty: 15.1W, 6.0V, 2.52A

The 1.6 ohm LR atty couldn't handle the higher Watts and it popped before I could get a measurement. It was my last one or I would have tried what would be max Watts for it without popping.

The 22.6 Watts was stable for the 1.5 ohm DCC and remained consistent unlike with the initial dual DNA boards where it was stable at 20 Watts max. And I was happy to see the 2.5 ohm DCC come in at just a bit above 14 Watts with this revised dual board setup cuz I like 14 Watts with that carto.

If you vape with 3 ohm SCC and like higher Watts the dual board setup won't be a benefit to you cuz it maxed out not much higher than the single board max Watts.

Vaping with my dual DNA Phidias with a 2.5 ohm DCC at 14 Watts now. nom nom. :p

For those who are interested in wiring a dual DNA board, here's how I did it...

Strip about 1/2" of the insulation from one wire end and tin the bare wire. The way I tin a bare wire is to apply flux to the bare wire (I use a toothpick to do this), then apply solder to the bare wire. I use stranded wire so I twirl the bare wires before tinning. Trim this bare wire end to 3/8".
2dna1.jpg


Line up the 2 boards, one on top of the other, and tape together.
2dna2.jpg


Insert the tinned end of the wire through the pin hole of one board and into the same pin hole of the other board.
2dna3.jpg


Apply flux to both pin holes, then apply solder.
2dna4.jpg


Repeat until all wires are soldered to the boards.
2dna5.jpg


Remove the tape and you're good to go!
 

jmarkus

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I wired another board and took measurements from this board. I really like how fast I'm able to get up and going as the wiring is super easy.

I didn't hit 12W with that board either as it was essentially the exact same measurements as the 1st board... so I wired a 3rd board and took measurements. I realize that there's not any significant difference really with getting 11.9W vs 12W, but dang... I just wanted to see 12 Watts. :laugh: and I did with this 3rd board.

Min Watts:
1.5 ohm DCC: 7.0W, 3.31V, 2.12A
2.5 ohm DCC: 4.8W, 3.5V, 1.36A
2.2 ohm SCC: 5.0W, 3.4V, 1.48A
3.0 ohm SCC: 4.8W, 3.88V, 1.24A
1.6 ohm LR atty: 7.0W, 3.27V, 2.14A
2.4 ohm Std. atty: 4.8W, 3.39V, 1.43A

Max Watts:
1.5 ohm DCC: 12.0W, 4.31V, 2.78A
2.5 ohm DCC: 11.8W, 5.48V, 2.15A
2.2 ohm SCC: 11.8W, 5.16V, 2.29A
3.0 ohm SCC: 11.4W, 5.95V, 1.92A
1.6 ohm LR atty: 12.0W, 4.18V, 2.88A
2.4 ohm Std. atty: 11.9W, 5.34V, 2.23A

The 1.5 ohm DCC peaked at 12W, but only for the first second of pressing the atty switch then would drop down to 11.9W, while the 1.6 ohm LR atty consistently remained at 12W.

I have no idea how to explain why the max Watts of the 3 ohm SCC peaked at only 11.4W (1st board it was 11.3W) other than this carto had the highest resistance and had the highest voltage measurement with the lowest amps measurement of all the attys/cartos I tested. Or why the min Watts of the 1.5 ohm DCC and 1.6 ohm LR atty was 7.0W (1st board it was 6.6W and 6.2W respectively). These two had the lowest voltage measurements with the highest amps measurements.

Maybe it's the way the DNA is configured to output volts and amps at a specific resistance??

And I just had to take a pic of the DNA hitting the magic 12 Watts mark! woohoo!
dna-max.jpg

hey mamu, thanks so much for all the work you do!

i was just trying to use an online ohm's law calculator using some of your ohm's and voltages from your tests above. it seems the only numbers that jive are the 2.4 ohm std atty. do you think the DNA chip is using different math? just a curious electronics noob who would love to know. it could also be me, maybe im not calculating right?
 
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mamu

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hey mamu, thanks so much for all the work you do!

i was just trying to use an online ohm's law calculator using some of your ohm's and voltages from your tests above. it seems the only numbers that jive are the 2.4 ohm std atty. do you think the DNA chip is using different math? just a curious electronics noob who would love to know. it could also be me, maybe im not calculating right?

YW JM!

<do you think the DNA chip is using different math> No, the DNA board isn't capable of doing measurements or any kind of math. I used the watts meter for measurements (volts, amps, Watts) and measured the resistance of each carto/atty with a multimeter.

Resistance may change while in use - even a tenth of a change can throw the calculation off plus I didn't measure the resistance each and every time I was measuring Watts - I was going by the initial resistance that I measured for each atty/carto. So take resistance out of the equation and use W = I x V.
 
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MXBNW

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First thing. I got my new set of chips back from Branden :)

I would like to thank every one that has posted on this thread. Its been very helpful in understanding the chip and how to get the most out of it. mamu you have made this simple and easy to understand, Thank you

OK Question: Is it possible when the Evolve USB chip comes out, Can one bypass the battery (No Battery) and use the USB power as a PT. Or can I put a battery set up in it and use the USB as a PT when at my desk.

I was thinking of making a Mod so it has no battery just a PT for my desk.
 

retird

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With the batteries installed and charging with the USB chip, you can vape it like a passthru....you get the power from the batteries as they are charging....you can't bypass the batteries....remember you are pulling several amps of current when vaping....I believe the charging circuit is designed to charge at a rate of 500 milliamps.....

Hope this helps...
 
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MXBNW

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Thanks, So if i just put in a small battery that would allow me to build it very small but not rely on the battery for the primary power. Like if I use a IMR 16340 as the battery power but use it as a PT for the most part. Not relying on battery run time.

This will be for my desk only. Was thinking of a 15-30ml bottle hooked up all the time to a power source. This way I can run all week with out messing with any thing on my desk. :)

So is this a crazy idea or not.

With the batteries installed and charging with the USB chip, you can vape it like a passthru....you get the power from the batteries as they are charging....you can't bypass the batteries....remember you are pulling several amps of current when vaping....I believe the charging circuit is designed to charge at a rate of 500 milliamps.....

Hope this helps...
 

retird

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The battery IS the primary power....and should be sized to do the job...500 milliamp charging will not provide the required amperage to vape...at a minimum the battery needs to provide a MINIMUM of 5 amps continuous discharge current. High C rated lithium polymer or IMR cylindrical cells are strongly preferred.
 
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