Dna20d REO VV

[T1lVl]

Yup. Only reason I have not removed the button is due to warranty.

I have seen a lot of post of the dna breaking or glitching.

Would hate to flush 50 down the drain.

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[Raynman]

I just don't get it. I hope not to offend anyone. But Why the dna 20? The Reo/Rm2 setup can do all of what I've read that it can do just by the coil build. I mean you have a RM2 and it hits perfect there is no need to have VV or VW make it the way you want. I haven't understood why anyone would want VW over VV to begin with. VV is more accurate than VW. For the most part I used one Clearo Carto or tank anyway and set voltage to taste. I even had to do that with my VW mods. The only advantage I could see is there are points of wattage between the volts. My tastes aren't sensitive enough to go less than .1 volts increments. Please someone enlighten me as to why we need this. I do want to repeat I mean no disrespect or offense to anyone, I just don't know.

 

[SinisterRaccoon]

My reason is just because. ..when it comes to hobbies, I can't keep things stock.cars, bikes, guns, vape gear...just a tinkerer at heart. VV reo is great as it was made, and it fulfilled my needs...except the need to tinker

Yes, I am an Insidious Raccoon

 

[SinisterRaccoon]

Tho atm im reo less...the dna20 I converted to worked great the first day, then the next day it started acting bad. Was determined that the chip would get warrantied out.....so new chip comes, transplant begins....but do my dismay, no life. Put power in but no response from anything...I did desolder the power button before checking for life, so I don't know if it will be replaced or not yet. Waiting on the response from evolv. Least I can still use the rm2 on the vmod it will have to do for now. ...

Yes, I am an Insidious Raccoon

 

[custom-classic]

I just don't get it. I hope not to offend anyone. But Why the DNA 20? The Reo/Rm2 setup can do all of what I've read that it can do just by the coil build. I mean you have a RM2 and it hits perfect there is no need to have VV or VW make it the way you want. I haven't understood why anyone would want VW over VV to begin with. VV is more accurate than VW. For the most part I used one Clearo Carto or tank anyway and set voltage to taste. I even had to do that with my VW mods. The only advantage I could see is there are points of wattage between the volts. My tastes aren't sensitive enough to go less than .1 volts increments. Please someone enlighten me as to why we need this. I do want to repeat I mean no disrespect or offense to anyone, I just don't know.

Why do we "need" nitrous kits, super chargers, or turbos? It's just for fun. Something else to tinker with.

 

[SinisterRaccoon]

How bout a 2 stage fire on a mod....relaxed vape to keep ya going....then BAM...flip a switch and punch it for stage 2 , when ya need that intense nostril burning vape

Yes, I am an Insidious Raccoon

 

[custom-classic]

Now yer talkin'!!! We could put a Jacobs Mastermind on it and have like 4 stages of pure awesomeness!!!!

 

[SinisterRaccoon]

Oh and I wanna see a boost guage on there too maybe we DO need a new mod lol...now the ideas are racing in my head...maybe an actual key for a main switch...gas pedal style trigger...volt/power/etc trio guages....gas cap for the fill...led headlights...nitrous button...*drool drippin*

Yes, I am an Insidious Raccoon

 

[turbocad6]

I'm like raccoon, I like to tinker and mod things, sometimes just for the sake of modding but mostly in the name of improvement, and yes I have ruined some perfectly fine things in the name of "improvement"

for me the main appeal of the dna20 is consistency and extended useful battery capacity. on a mech the vape starts out extra strong with a battery fresh of the charger, then it kind of levels out for a bit, then it starts to drop off and by the time the battery reaches below half way the vape winds up weaker so a fresh battery is swapped in to regain the stronger vape, or you continue with the half dead cell getting weaker and weaker, and weaker still, where with the dna you can get the same fresh off the charger vape from beginning to end, still get the fresh off the charger vape even when the battery is down 80%, long after the mech goes to wimpy. the drawback is the limit of 20 watts, so if I want a .9ohm vape then I can have that throughout the battery cycle, but if I want the equivalent of a .5-.6ohm or something, and want to go to 30 watts or more then nope, the dna20 can't do that. it's a tradeoff.

 

[pdib]

How bout a 2 stage fire on a mod....relaxed vape to keep ya going....then BAM...flip a switch and punch it for stage 2 , when ya need that intense nostril burning vape

Yes, I am an Insidious Raccoon

that's what my VERY DANGEROUS brass shim mod provided. A boost of ~.5V on average; to be engaged at will, or left aside.

 

[pdib]

I'm like raccoon, I like to tinker and mod things, sometimes just for the sake of modding but mostly in the name of improvement, and yes I have ruined some perfectly fine things in the name of "improvement"

for me the main appeal of the dna20 is consistency and extended useful battery capacity. on a mech the vape starts out extra strong with a battery fresh of the charger, then it kind of levels out for a bit, then it starts to drop off and by the time the battery reaches below half way the vape winds up weaker so a fresh battery is swapped in to regain the stronger vape, or you continue with the half dead cell getting weaker and weaker, and weaker still, where with the dna you can get the same fresh off the charger vape from beginning to end, still get the fresh off the charger vape even when the battery is down 80%, long after the mech goes to wimpy. the drawback is the limit of 20 watts, so if I want a .9ohm vape then I can have that throughout the battery cycle, but if I want the equivalent of a .5-.6ohm or something, and want to go to 30 watts or more then nope, the dna20 can't do that. it's a tradeoff.

the absolute LAST thing I would ever want to do, Turbo-, is to talk you out of modding something. That said, battery design and quality has a lot to do with sag on a mech. setup. I believe you already ordered some Samsungs . . .. so we shall see. A person running an AW 1600mAh probably has a very different opinion about vaping mech, than does one using an Efest 2000.

 

[T1lVl]

Anyone know what can be used for atomizer ground? Just the casing maybe?

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[T1lVl]

I cut some of the metal to be able to slide the DNA up more.

My next move is planning the wire And testing the location of the chip for heating issues..

Its a tight fit but doable if the atomizer post doesn't heat up to much.

The black plastic I'm going to try and keep using it. Only problem there is a gap but the location it lunes up is perfect for a 18650.

So I need to figure out wire routing. Protecting the DNA from short circuit and fill in the top space. Its give or take a inch.

Buttons and screen I think I'm going g to dtemel the black plastic or fit it in the gap once I find material.

Just need to figure out button negative and atomizer negative.

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[turbocad6]

use the body as ground, connect the main ground and the atomizer ground from the dna both to the body of the reo, connect the battery's ground to the body, and then you only run one wire to the battery positive and one wire to the atty positive.

the battery + and the atty + and the main ground and the atty ground all must be 20 gage wire, anything larger will be a mess and anything smaller will not be ideal. control wiring can be as tiny as you can work with but doesn't need to be heavy at all. 26-28 gage is fine, even 30 or less but then durability comes into play when you go too tiny. this is for the fire button and either up/down buttons or a potentiometer, these all don't need to be heavy at all.

 

[T1lVl]

I'm going to go recommended wiring. 24/20.

I should have enough room. I figured I could use the casing but want to be sure cause rob used a screw. Maybe to make it a little more professional.

Everything should work fine. Got to wait tell I get paid to get the rest of the material so going to brain storm the gap issues.

And mounting the plastic piece.

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[davewuvswaffles]

I remember checking your thread back in it's early stages, turbo.

I was impressed with your ingenuity in some of your early builds and am blown away by what you've accomplished with the Reo.

Even if VV isn't necessarily my thing, your Reo is absolutely beautiful in both aesthetics and mechanics.

A million props to you man, incredible job.

 

[AaronY]

I just don't get it. I hope not to offend anyone. But Why the DNA 20? The Reo/Rm2 setup can do all of what I've read that it can do just by the coil build. I mean you have a RM2 and it hits perfect there is no need to have VV or VW make it the way you want. I haven't understood why anyone would want VW over VV to begin with. VV is more accurate than VW. For the most part I used one Clearo Carto or tank anyway and set voltage to taste. I even had to do that with my VW mods. The only advantage I could see is there are points of wattage between the volts. My tastes aren't sensitive enough to go less than .1 volts increments. Please someone enlighten me as to why we need this. I do want to repeat I mean no disrespect or offense to anyone, I just don't know.

Because it can do 20w and work with subohm coils which the stock reo VV can't. I guess it depends how much wattage you like.

 

[turbocad6]

thanks Dave, I do like mechanicals too, both have there benefits and drawbacks really, I wouldn't say electronic control is def better all around, it's better in some aspects where mech is better in others and both have there place

T1IVI, what do you mean "but rob used a screw" ? are you talking about for the atty ground? since your dna is so close to the atty then running the ground straight to the atty ground screw if there is one wouldn't be so bad, I don't have a VV grand so don't really know how it is set up there, if the atty connection is epoxied into the body then a ground straight to the atty would make sense and be required as the epoxy is not conductive. I'm basing my reply on the assumption that the atty is grounded to the body like it is in a regular grand.

 

[T1lVl]

There is a screw rob ran a ground wire to from the old chip. I don't see a atomizer ground so I assume he using the casing.

Maybe the ground for the older chip was for the chip it self or that he was using it for battery ground. To not have to run the wire to the negative plate.



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[turbocad6]

ah, ok, well you will need to run a ground from the new chip anyway, so it could be run to that screw, along with the atty ground as well, no reason to run a 20 gage all the way to the bottom for battery ground, the whole case body becomes ground