Milo-DNA20D mod step-by-step how-to

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Azmo

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Thx for the replies, while i'm using Mamu's tutorial i'll probably go with a custom design. I'm still drawing and thinking different designs, while the 6000mah seems great the whole package is a little bit long. I'll probably stick to parallel 18650's

Regarding the button maybe i should stick to non illuminated until i have a better grasp of the electronic side :p

I bought switches like these: 1pcs 16mm OD Stainless Steel Push Button Switch Round Pin Terminals | eBay

They are shallower then anti-vandal switches and there is no LED
 

xpen

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Azmo

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Same type I've used in my mod, great choice.

I'd like to find a 12mm (mounting hole diameter) version of those, though, 16mm in a 20mm thick mod was a bit of an overkill...

I agree. For the one I'm building now, I'm using a 12mm raised button anti-vandal switch and just not wiring the LED. I wish I could figure out how to wire the LED because it looks awesome.
 

mikepetro

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I have used that exact battery and it lasts and lasts (days) and takes forever to charge if fully drained (~12hrs w/DNA charger). Removing the hard case you can get the size down to roughly 3.2" x 1.65" x 0.625"

Bap, would you use the same battery again? Or would you choose something else now?

Also, could you please point me to the bezel you designed for the DNA display. I cant find it in all of these long threads.

Any pointers on a 510 connector with a brass or copper contacts?
 

bapgood

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Mike,

Here is the bezel https://www.shapeways.com/model/990...n-cradle.html?li=search-results&materialId=25

Lots of good info on batteries here Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University

Lipo's really aren't any more dangerous than any other lithium battery as far chemistry is concerned. However lipo's typically have a thin aluminum shell that can be punctured easier than typical metal cased round cells.

Yes I would definitely use the 6000mah battery again. I still have it and one day I will build something for it.

Sorry I'm not much help on connectors as I build my own.
 

mikepetro

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Sorry I'm not much help on connectors as I build my own.

Thanks for the pointers Bap,

Alas I am "Lathe challenged" so I must source those connectors somewhere. I certainly dont want to put cheap quality ones on this, after putting all these other sweet components in it.

I kept getting stuck on what enclosure to use. So I reversed my thinking and figured I would source the majority of my components first, THEN figure out an enclosure for it.

With that battery it sounds like I might wind up with a nice "weekender"! If I get that battery I am considering taking the cell out of the hardcase and then putting a heatshrink sleeve on it.

I see a lot of the Lipo cells with little tabs on them that require soldering. Like this other battery I am also considering at
Turnigy 5000mAh 1S 20C Lipoly (Single Cell)
I am skilled at soldering, do these present any special challenge other than being careful not over heat it? I would probably use a pair of hemostats on the tab in between the solder joint and the battery to serve as a heatsink while soldering.
 

mikepetro

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bapgood

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I see a lot of the Lipo cells with little tabs on them that require soldering. Like this other battery I am also considering at
Turnigy 5000mAh 1S 20C Lipoly (Single Cell)
I am skilled at soldering, do these present any special challenge other than being careful not over heat it? I would probably use a pair of hemostats on the tab in between the solder joint and the battery to serve as a heatsink while soldering.

Typically they aren't to hard to solder, especially if you can keep some the original solder on the tabs if your reconfiguring a pack. However there are some tabs that are just a pita. DrMA recomended this aluminum soft solder and flux kit for lipo tabs and other aluminum soldering. Even on the 6000 I condensed the packs as much as possible and resoldered the tabs. Typically there is a pcb soldered to the tabs, so I remove that and fold the ends down as compact as I can get them and resolder.
 

xpen

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Dead on. It was for me, and it worked like a charm with wood :)

Differently from metal, with wood it's quite difficult to have walls thinner than 4/5mm w/o compromising the overall robustness..

If you're using a thicker case material (like wood) and don't want/can't machine down the wall thickness it can come in handy. I think bap just modified it for something mamu needed specifically but it is useful for the rest of us heathens as well :D
 

rizzo777

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Hey all - I've been trying to locate the tactile switches posted by Mamu and everyone seems to have none in stock. Can anyone recommend a different switch (silver) that I can use with the Hammond box ? I am trying to order everything, picked up epoxy and heatshrink today and some other supplies and the switches are holding me back right now. Any suggestions would be appreciated, I would love to order everyone @ one supplier to save on shipping but if that's not possible its ok. Thanks
 

bapgood

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retird

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How about this?
ZIPPY FLIGHTMAX 6200MAH 1S 30C HARDCASE CAR LIPOLY

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

Dats a big battery I bet have the dimensions?

Spec:
Capacity: 6200mAh
Voltage: 1S / 1 Cell / 3.7v
Discharge: 30C Constant / 40C Burst
Max Charge Rate: 1C
Weight: 179g (including wire, plug & case)
Dimensions: 92x46x19mm
Discharge Plug: HXT-4mm
 

Visus

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if you build it its name so should be 'die hard or prospered, eveready, dynamite, energizer. lol the battery companies had fun naming..

charge that .... once every two weeks for two days and the insanity never stops of mod fever..

milo is feelin the envy, attraction, or disgust, ya never know with a lil lady
those are huge :laugh:
 
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