Milo-DNA20D mod step-by-step how-to

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mikepetro

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Has anyone experimented with a "momentary slide switch" for the fire button?

Something similar to this, though I am looking for something that is compatible with a larger thumb friendly actuator.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/435/ss001 series-5924.pdf

I am investigating this approach because of the thinness of the switch, more room for battery:evil:.
 
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bapgood

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Has anyone experimented with a "mo
momentary slide switch" for the fire button?

Something similar to this, though I am looking for something that is compatible with a larger thumb friendly actuator.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/435/ss001 series-5924.pdf

I am investigating approach because of the thinness of the switch, more room for battery:evil:.


Should work....I'm assuming its spring loaded.
 

mikepetro

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Should work....I'm assuming its spring loaded.

Yes, normally open with a spring return. Rated at 10k cycles.
I envision it with an actuator like this:
Custom-Slide-Caps.jpg

They just slip over the top of the switch.

Envisioning a box mod with a big Lipo flat pack. Switch depth started becoming a challenge in order to avoid too big of a box.

Maybe this bat:
ZIPPY Flightmax 6200mah 1S 30C Hardcase Car Lipoly (USA Warehouse)

And this box (roughly the size of a pack of analogs):
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1373301

If the switch is thin enough I might even be able to keep the hardcase on the bat.
 

bapgood

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Yes, normally open with a spring return. Rated at 10k cycles.
I envision it with an actuator like this:
Custom-Slide-Caps.jpg

They just slip over the top of the switch.

Envisioning a box mod with a big Lipo flat pack. Switch depth started becoming a challenge in order to avoid too big of a box.

Maybe this bat:
ZIPPY Flightmax 6200mah 1S 30C Hardcase Car Lipoly (USA Warehouse)

And this box (roughly the size of a pack of analogs):
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1373301

If the switch is thin enough I might even be able to keep the hardcase on the bat.

Just my opinion....but I think 3000mah to 4000mah is about perfect. Typically get in a reasonable size mod, should last all day for most, and should fully charge over night even if you only sleep 6 hours or so.
 

mikepetro

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Just my opinion....but I think 3000mah to 4000mah is about perfect. Typically get in a reasonable size mod, should last all day for most, and should fully charge over night even if you only sleep 6 hours or so.

I understand, and yes a 3200mah bat lasts me a good full day. I am shooting for a weekender here though. I go out of town every other weekend and either have to carry a couple extra bats, and/or a charger. I am hoping the "Weekender" will replace my whole "Oh ..... Kit". With a big honking bat I should be able to last the full weekend, plus I will put a 1amp microUSB charger in it that in case I need to top it off.

I do hear you though, I have 2 DNA20 chips so I am open to everything right now.

BTW, my bezels shipped today, pretty decent leadtime out of Shapeways.
 

mikepetro

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bapgood

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I read a bit about "balancing" the charge of multi-cell packs on the R/C sites. Does that present any issues in our Mods?

Gotcha on the weekender mod.


No balancing doesn't come into play when the pack is configured as 1S"X"P (or multiple cells in parallel). The multiple cells act as one as far as charging goes. I have charged the round nano lipos in my xtar round cell charger....even an ugly 1S3P pack I made :D


 

puchox

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And this box (roughly the size of a pack of analogs):
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1373301

If the switch is thin enough I might even be able to keep the hardcase on the bat.

Thanks for that post Mike, somehow i missed that box on FT while searching for something suitable for my mod.

With all the battery craze right now i can't get any decent lipo batts shipped to me. I'll probably get a box like the one you posted and use 4 Panasonic NCR18650B in parallel for around 12000mah.
I know the batts can take 6.8A max which is less than the cutout for the DNA20, but i dont have plans to push more than 5A with my current setups.

I also have to thank bapgood, i never thought of the parallel batteries :p
 

Azmo

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Any recommendations to cut thru the aluminum box without using a dremel? Was about to buy one but chose not too...hopefully I don't blow myself up too. Thanks

Depends on the case. I use a drill and a coping saw if I can, otherwise I just drill and file. I don't like using the dremel.
 

rizzo777

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Bought a cheapy dremel clone from harbor freight didn't use it yet. Received box batteries and fuses still waiting on other parts. When I was soldering the battery wires to one lead of the fuse I had that leg heated for a while. Is it possible I could of ruined the fuse? Soldering skills are weak at the moment...
 
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