Do I need to clean the coils on a pro tank mini II every time I add a different ejuice?

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JCasBoston

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Jul 11, 2013
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I have two protanks going at a time with two spare heads. After i am done with a tank, I rinse it out and change out the head. Then i take the used head, rinse and soak for a few hours and let it dry overnight. Then when the tank needs to be refilled, i have the washed head ready for the rotation. I don't have any luck with dry burning.

like what nini does..
 

fabricator4

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I got a KAngerPT2 yesterday, and within hours it got a burned taste, so I swapped the 2.5 head out for the 1.8 that also came with it. It was good vaping again, til this morning. It went to burn taste again. I'm using a cheap vision spinner, but never really cranked it up. I would have thought the 2.5 should have lasted longer.

Now what? I didn't buy replacement heads, which was dumb, but what am I doing wrong? Is this what I should expect, changing heads daily. I do like to take long slow draws, does that have anything to to with it.

My other mod is a 5v Smok Woo and with a Pyrex DCT 2ohm, I can go at it for a week with no problems.

Do Kanger still put the little card in with the Protank 2? I has voltage recommendations for different resistances, and they normally work out to about 6.5 watts.

P x R = V^2, so 6.5 x 1.8 = 3.4V, almost as low as you can go on the spinner.

You will notice that you can turn the power up for a short while, but if you keep vaping at higher power it will burn. I think this is why so many people have problems with the Protanks. Even chain vaping at 6.5 watts can get you into trouble, eventually. Heads last me a couple of weeks on the Protank.

If the juice is very thick or if it's cold, this can cause wicking problems with the Protank. Leave it in a warm place to prevent this, or you can try flipping the rubber cap that fits on the stem upside down to allow the wicks a bit more freedom. Some people leave it off altogether, or remove one of the flavour wicks however this may result in flooding and leaking into the centre column.

To fix the heads you''ve got you can try dry burning them. Pull them apart and wash them in really hot water. Don't lose the flavour wick unless you've got spare wick to replace it with. Pat the wicks dry and screw one into the base and put it on your battery; no stem - you need to be able to watch the coil.

Fire the battery and you will see steam coming off as it heats the wet wick. Once steam stops coming off keep pulsing the fire button until the coil starts to glow. No more than 1 second pulses each time. Keep going until the crud is turned to ash and the wick under the coil is white. Wash the coil in hot water again to get rid of the ash and dry. If you can't replace the flavour wicks and they are dark you will need to fire them with a butane torch or the gas stove to clean them. Wash them as well. Re-assemble the head including flavour wicks and put it back in your Protank.
 

GranFumador

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I ordered some from Fast Tech but it takes a while for the stuff to get through Hong Kong. In the meantime I don't have that luxury yet.


I, too, have been waiting for a FastTech order, and was in the same boat. I ordered some Protank II Minis and a couple packs of replacement heads from Sweet Vapes on Thursday. They made it from Wisconsin to Maine in about a day and a half, regular first class mail. I'm using one of the coils now.
 

fabricator4

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I have two protanks going at a time with two spare heads. After i am done with a tank, I rinse it out and change out the head. Then i take the used head, rinse and soak for a few hours and let it dry overnight. Then when the tank needs to be refilled, i have the washed head ready for the rotation. I don't have any luck with dry burning.

like what nini does..

You need to wash again after the dry burn, otherwise it tastes like ash. If you boil instead of wash, and air dry instead of trying to burn wet, the results are much better - even better than the new coil in some cases because there's hardly any nasties left from manufacturing.
 

Preloader

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Ha. Watched a quick video on YouTube, ran to the sink, cleaned and dry burned the 2.5. Tastes great.

Yesterday was my first VV experience as well as a PT II. So I was all over the dial, but I figured 2.5ohms could handle 4.8v easily. It's only been a day and I'm already learning to patiently "vary" responsibly.

I find the fastest way to learn new things is to screw them up and THEN research how to fix them. As was the case with my first PT II obviously.

Thanks guys. That was super easy!

EDIT: ahhhh so delicious again! Tasty Vapor's Tobacco btw.
 
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JCasBoston

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Jul 11, 2013
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Mansfield, MA
You need to wash again after the dry burn, otherwise it tastes like ash. If you boil instead of wash, and air dry instead of trying to burn wet, the results are much better - even better than the new coil in some cases because there's hardly any nasties left from manufacturing.

Nice, thanks I'll have to give that a shot. Kind a duh moment when i realized how much sense that makes..
 

State Of Zen

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You need to wash again after the dry burn, otherwise it tastes like ash. If you boil instead of wash, and air dry instead of trying to burn wet, the results are much better - even better than the new coil in some cases because there's hardly any nasties left from manufacturing.

Never tried boiling, how long do you boil the heads for? Thanks.
 
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Train2

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With PTank2 (but NOT for some reason with PTank MINI), I find that it "can't keep up" getting juice to the coil. So I pop the air tube off, and remove about HALF the flavor wicking. Then it works FAR better - better vapor, no dry/burnt hits, and still no leaks. I'm using a variety of juices - not 100% VG, but anywhere from 70/30 to 50/50...

I got a KAngerPT2 yesterday, and within hours it got a burned taste, so I swapped the 2.5 head out for the 1.8 that also came with it. It was good vaping again, til this morning. It went to burn taste again. I'm using a cheap vision spinner, but never really cranked it up. I would have thought the 2.5 should have lasted longer.

Now what? I didn't buy replacement heads, which was dumb, but what am I doing wrong? Is this what I should expect, changing heads daily. I do like to take long slow draws, does that have anything to to with it.

My other mod is a 5v Smok Woo and with a Pyrex DCT 2ohm, I can go at it for a week with no problems.
 

Preloader

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Do Kanger still put the little card in with the Protank 2? I has voltage recommendations for different resistances, and they normally work out to about 6.5 watts.

P x R = V^2, so 6.5 x 1.8 = 3.4V, almost as low as you can go on the spinner.

You will notice that you can turn the power up for a short while, but if you keep vaping at higher power it will burn. I think this is why so many people have problems with the Protanks. Even chain vaping at 6.5 watts can get you into trouble, eventually. Heads last me a couple of weeks on the Protank.

If the juice is very thick or if it's cold, this can cause wicking problems with the Protank. Leave it in a warm place to prevent this, or you can try flipping the rubber cap that fits on the stem upside down to allow the wicks a bit more freedom. Some people leave it off altogether, or remove one of the flavour wicks however this may result in flooding and leaking into the centre column.

To fix the heads you''ve got you can try dry burning them. Pull them apart and wash them in really hot water. Don't lose the flavour wick unless you've got spare wick to replace it with. Pat the wicks dry and screw one into the base and put it on your battery; no stem - you need to be able to watch the coil.

Fire the battery and you will see steam coming off as it heats the wet wick. Once steam stops coming off keep pulsing the fire button until the coil starts to glow. No more than 1 second pulses each time. Keep going until the crud is turned to ash and the wick under the coil is white. Wash the coil in hot water again to get rid of the ash and dry. If you can't replace the flavour wicks and they are dark you will need to fire them with a butane torch or the gas stove to clean them. Wash them as well. Re-assemble the head including flavour wicks and put it back in your Protank.

I am pretty good at ohms law, but I ramped up to like 9 watts, because that seems the only way to get a good TH and vapor from the 2.5ohm PT2. If I go for 6watts....... Or ~3.9v, it hardly hits at all. I'm still perplexed with finding the sweet spot.
 

Train2

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Oh - and I, like a previous poster, will pour a new flavor on top of a little remaining juice - if they seem like that won't be too disgusting.
And surprisingly, some blends are nice. Like a little strawberry-banana left, and I fill up with Turkish Tobacco - just fine!

I clean out every 3 or so tankfuls, and even then, I just run hot water. I probably do toss the occasional head that could be revived with a full alcohol soak and dry burn, but I've been getting weeks from a coil without it (I do have several going and rotate use...it's not weeks nonstop on one).
 

Denrock316

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I believe the heads on the Smok Tech Pyrex ARO are very similar? I rinse mine out about every 2-3 fills and I soak them in a shot glass of Everclear for about 2-3 hours followed by a real thorough hot water rinse. Then I let it dry until it's time to clean the one that's in current use. I only have one ARO atm with more on the way, but I have been using the same 2 heads for 6 weeks now and I've yet to even open the spares I got. I had been just rinsing them with hot water until my first coil started to gunk up and get weak vapor production. So I did the soak in alcohol followed by a 10 min soak in hot water and real thorough rinse now it tastes and performs like it's new again. Even got the wicks almost totally white again.

PS- I don't dry burn popped to many coils in the past trying it.
 
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fabricator4

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Never tried boiling, how long do you boil the heads for? Thanks.
.

I think 5 minutes is probably plenty. I put all my used heads in a pan of water and bring to a rolling boil, then turn it down to a slow boil for about 5 or 10 minutes.

I then lay them out on paper towel to dry before dry burning next day. I normally do this once every few months, or whenever I get around to it. If I get stuck though, I have no problems doing a quick job like you guys, but found it's pointless unless you wash again after the dry burn. Once your sense of taste comes back you can detect the nasty ash flavour - never could to start with ;-D
 

fabricator4

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I am pretty good at ohms law, but I ramped up to like 9 watts, because that seems the only way to get a good TH and vapor from the 2.5ohm PT2. If I go for 6watts....... Or ~3.9v, it hardly hits at all. I'm still perplexed with finding the sweet spot.

You should get bags of flavour and vapour at 6.5 watts. There's a few reasons why you may not:

* Coil is gunked up and crusty - affects how much vapour is produced, dry burn will fix it
* Juice is not wicking - Thin the juice, or put it in a warm place for a while
* Bad contacts - I've been having trouble with this on the T3S for some reason. The wires don't make contact with the S/S pin and body after it's screwed on. You need a mod with an ohmmeter or a 510 resistance checker to diagnose this one. I haven't had a problem with protank heads but the design is the same.
* The coil is higher resistance than you think, or the battery is putting out a lower voltage than you think - Use a multimeter to test the components individually.
* Expectations. - The protank is better than any top coil device and produces as much vapour as a dripping atty at 8 watts. Some people just aren't happy with this and want more by running higher watts. In my *Opinion* the protank doesn't do well at this unless you can change the coil and wicks to work super well. I've done experiments with cotton that were promising but I didn't like it well enough to justify the fiddle factor.
* Sometimes you just get a dud head - replace it or recoil it yourself. Some heads go gang busters, some heads are just OK, and some were wrong from the time they were made.
 

fabricator4

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I tried removing half of the flavor wick, and now: gargle gargle gargle.

Did I remove too much. I cleaned and burned my 1.8 and adjusted my volts so I'm getting the hang of the beast, but what about the half wicked 2.5? Does that cause flooding and gargling? Did I remove too much?

Yes, that's pretty common. People say to remove some of the flavour wick, but if it results in flooding you need to put some or all of it back in. Try turning the rubber cap upside down first. Some people remove it completely however this can result in flooding too, though it's not so likely - I've left them out by accident and only found out when I discovered a stray one on the kitchen bench or in the sink.
 
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