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We have the capability for etched tubes using vinyl plotter and sandblasting but we currently just dont have time. There is a laundry list of things we are adding as we can get to them and this is one of them for sure.
MNguy, looks good on the Vamo. I have one on the ZMax Mini right now and it looks good there too. The Mini is 21mm diameter so it is very slightly larger and I will probably swap out a 19 for this device but it not too bad at all.
On other things, not sure if I mentioned it already or not but we have sent the White silicone material we sourced to our cutting shop to be made into washers for all three of our tank sizes. I also got notice today that the Blue has been shipped our way so when it gets in that too will be forwarded for cutting. Should be in the next couple of weeks when we start getting these in.
Lastly word from our machine shop is that they now have three machine running our products
The Drip Tips should be ready to go to Anodizing some time next week and production numbers of all of our other caps will be much more readily available for us. I think the next big move with them will be 19mm Anodized caps.
MNguy, looks good on the Vamo. I have one on the ZMax Mini right now and it looks good there too. The Mini is 21mm diameter so it is very slightly larger and I will probably swap out a 19 for this device but it not too bad at all.
On other things, not sure if I mentioned it already or not but we have sent the White silicone material we sourced to our cutting shop to be made into washers for all three of our tank sizes. I also got notice today that the Blue has been shipped our way so when it gets in that too will be forwarded for cutting. Should be in the next couple of weeks when we start getting these in.
Lastly word from our machine shop is that they now have three machine running our products
The Drip Tips should be ready to go to Anodizing some time next week and production numbers of all of our other caps will be much more readily available for us. I think the next big move with them will be 19mm Anodized caps.
Not trying to take any business away from OCD (sounds like this is a long way off though)- you can buy glass etching kits at Hobby Lobby, Michael's or online pretty cheap. Measure your tank, draw or printout your design on label paper, with the sticky back. Cut it out with an X-Acto knife and stick on the tank. Apply etching compound as directed. I've done a dozen graduation marks on a dozen homebrewing carboys this way. The label can be a pain to remove, but it REALLY sticks so your design comes out clean. I good soak in Oxyclean and hot water will remove most of it, for the rest use lighter fluid (which I have a couple bottles of and never use anymore!)
I bet the glass on these tanks is hard to etch, so you might have to do a few passes or let it sit forever, but it will do Pyrex, I've done it.
I bet the glass on these tanks is hard to etch, so you might have to do a few passes or let it sit forever, but it will do Pyrex, I've done it.
No issues from me on sharing good tips Skoot, I wish we had time to do more of the custom stuff to be honest because the girls really made some cool tanks.
Whatever etching compound you use it needs to be for Borosilicate because from the little I know most of the stuff out there wont touch it or be very light even with time. Personally I think the sandblasting would give the best contrasting surface color/texture in the least time which is an issue for us but not for everyone. If someone wanted to try something they could put a note in an order for some scrap glass for testing and the girls would toss something in a baggy, no guarantees it would arrive round but there should be some big enough pieces to check out what you are using.
As far as etching Pyrex, this is big misnomer in the glass world. When Pyrex was invented it was Borosilicate glass, the same thing our glass tubes are made from. Some number of years ago Dow Corning sold the NAME Pyrex to World Kitchen who then began to manufacture glass kitchenware labeled Pyrex that is actually soda lime glass. Just wanted to toss that out there because you mentioned etching Pyrex, now if it was very old Pyrex then I would say it probably was Borosilicate/Pyrex but if it was say the last two decades (not real sure when the name changed hands) then there is a very good chance that it was Soda Lime/Pyrex.
Whatever etching compound you use it needs to be for Borosilicate because from the little I know most of the stuff out there wont touch it or be very light even with time. Personally I think the sandblasting would give the best contrasting surface color/texture in the least time which is an issue for us but not for everyone. If someone wanted to try something they could put a note in an order for some scrap glass for testing and the girls would toss something in a baggy, no guarantees it would arrive round but there should be some big enough pieces to check out what you are using.
As far as etching Pyrex, this is big misnomer in the glass world. When Pyrex was invented it was Borosilicate glass, the same thing our glass tubes are made from. Some number of years ago Dow Corning sold the NAME Pyrex to World Kitchen who then began to manufacture glass kitchenware labeled Pyrex that is actually soda lime glass. Just wanted to toss that out there because you mentioned etching Pyrex, now if it was very old Pyrex then I would say it probably was Borosilicate/Pyrex but if it was say the last two decades (not real sure when the name changed hands) then there is a very good chance that it was Soda Lime/Pyrex.
Hey OCD bro I would gladly take any scraps. I have some stuff I have been wanting to try to do to my tanks lol. Oh and you should be receiving a package soon
No problem TJ, The Offspring is gonna hook you up Look forward to trying out those carts but I got to tell you I really like the SmokTech cartos. You know that different strokes for different folks thing, something about them from the sizzle and pop to the throat hit that just does it for me. Its like some people like dripping on a 510 atty over anything else for purity of flavor but I never cared a lot for it. I guess I dont really vape for the fruits and candies as much as I want that sensation of smoking with a little flavor added.
Look forward to trying out those carts but I got to tell you I really like the SmokTech cartos. You know that different strokes for different folks thing, something about them from the sizzle and pop to the throat hit that just does it for me. Its like some people like dripping on a 510 atty over anything else for purity of flavor but I never cared a lot for it. I guess I dont really vape for the fruits and candies as much as I want that sensation of smoking with a little flavor added.
European Pyrex(kitchenware) was sold to a different company back in the 90's that still uses Borosilicate glass, but North American Pyrex line is the crappier lime glass which I hate. Its real easy to tell by just looking at the tint of the glass or by just dropping it on the floor.
Borosilicate glass is far superior and I wish NA Pyrex brand still used it. I have looked into buying a set of it from overseas but nobody wants to ship it over here.Anyway just bought my first carto tank ever, from you guys, 22mm with SS caps cant wait for it to get here. I have been filling my cartos for 2 years with a syringe 10-12 times a day I need a break from it.
I think someone mentioned this a page or two back but I'll echo their points about the Killer 705.
I know it's probably a lot to ask , and maybe you already have these parts around anyhow but the following would be amazing. IMO the perfect tank for a killer is one where the top cap o-ring and inner o-ring that seals with the Killer is a standard snugness. Then the bottom cap o-ring and inner o-ring are just a little lose. The Killer needs to be filled by taking the bottom cap off, you can't just slide it out of a cap like a carto. So every time you need to fill it you have pull the bottom cap off.
Also to adjust your juice flow there is a 510-510 adapted that sits in the bottom cap and screws in to the Killer inside the tank. When that inner o-ring is tight it's nearly impossible to open and close the juice control.
I suppose one solution is to have the inner o-ring grip really tightly as per usual but then have the main cap o-ring be lose enough that you could easily spin the bottom cap without anything else turning with it, so maybe all that's needed is a loss bottom cap o-ring.
I just bought a tank made by Leo that's dubbed the 'Killer tank' and its quite expensive and suffers from both these issues.
Phew, sorry for the rambling post.
I know it's probably a lot to ask , and maybe you already have these parts around anyhow but the following would be amazing. IMO the perfect tank for a killer is one where the top cap o-ring and inner o-ring that seals with the Killer is a standard snugness. Then the bottom cap o-ring and inner o-ring are just a little lose. The Killer needs to be filled by taking the bottom cap off, you can't just slide it out of a cap like a carto. So every time you need to fill it you have pull the bottom cap off.
Also to adjust your juice flow there is a 510-510 adapted that sits in the bottom cap and screws in to the Killer inside the tank. When that inner o-ring is tight it's nearly impossible to open and close the juice control.
I suppose one solution is to have the inner o-ring grip really tightly as per usual but then have the main cap o-ring be lose enough that you could easily spin the bottom cap without anything else turning with it, so maybe all that's needed is a loss bottom cap o-ring.
I just bought a tank made by Leo that's dubbed the 'Killer tank' and its quite expensive and suffers from both these issues.
Phew, sorry for the rambling post.
Got a couple of the new 22's today with the anodized caps. I love the size. An the cartos are much easier to insert than the previous 19's I got. Oh, and OCD, very quick shipping. Thanks so much.
Here's a picture of the blue one on a blue CVI.
Here's a picture of the blue one on a blue CVI.
Forgive my ignorance but how tall is this from outer cap to outer cap https://www.ibtanked.com/complete-tanks/anodised/22mm-red-anodized-detail
The Killer is I believe about 37mm tall so if its any taller than that I would need an extender or straight drip tip.
Edit; in standard config sorry.
The Killer is I believe about 37mm tall so if its any taller than that I would need an extender or straight drip tip.
Edit; in standard config sorry.
I like the size for most of my devices too BluSnake. As far as the quick shipping thats all in the girls domain but they do a bang up job and of course at the whims of the USPS which is pretty quick most of the time.
Chad, I measure 35.1 so if you wanted it to come out at 37 you would want a tube that is 1.9mm (0.075") longer than the Standard size. If you want to order a tank and get it in this size just put in the notes field that you need a 1.285" tube instead of the 1.210" and I will make it for you. If it works out well I will put up a killer tube in the other tank tubes category that these 22mm caps will fit. I think the better solution would be to make a different bottom cap that makes up the extra 75 thousandths and uses a Standard tube so it would be a little thicker and put a knurl on it for grip. I just dont know what the market is for these and if I were to make them I would have to start somewhere around 2,000pcs so you can imagine it is quite an investment on my end and that doesnt even begin to consider the increased part count when folks want both stainless and the anodized.
We are going to be gone for a few days next week (The Mrs and I, The Offspring will be left behind as a sacrifice to our customers) but hit me up again on this week after next and I will see what we might be able to do. If the thicker bottom cap and knurling sounds like it would work and Killer folks could use our Standard Tubes it might just be the solution they are looking for which would help us in deciding if we should make the parts.
Chad, I measure 35.1 so if you wanted it to come out at 37 you would want a tube that is 1.9mm (0.075") longer than the Standard size. If you want to order a tank and get it in this size just put in the notes field that you need a 1.285" tube instead of the 1.210" and I will make it for you. If it works out well I will put up a killer tube in the other tank tubes category that these 22mm caps will fit. I think the better solution would be to make a different bottom cap that makes up the extra 75 thousandths and uses a Standard tube so it would be a little thicker and put a knurl on it for grip. I just dont know what the market is for these and if I were to make them I would have to start somewhere around 2,000pcs so you can imagine it is quite an investment on my end and that doesnt even begin to consider the increased part count when folks want both stainless and the anodized.
We are going to be gone for a few days next week (The Mrs and I, The Offspring will be left behind as a sacrifice to our customers) but hit me up again on this week after next and I will see what we might be able to do. If the thicker bottom cap and knurling sounds like it would work and Killer folks could use our Standard Tubes it might just be the solution they are looking for which would help us in deciding if we should make the parts.
Awesome thanks for the reply. I'm not sure exactly how tall the Killer is but ill measure it with some calipers next time I have it apart.
As for specially machining a part just for the Killer that's probably not a good idea. I bought mine a few weeks ago and I got serial number 1318, and I bet at least half of those if not more are in Europe. There just wouldn't be a big enough market for it. The best solution for me (and I'm assuming many other Killer owners who don't want a full plug) would be to have the o-ring that holds the tank to the bottom cap have just a little give on it. Not enough that it would fall off, but enough that you could spin it with a big of force (and who knows maybe your tanks already do that) and for the 510-510 that sits in the cap to he held snuggly in place.
As for specially machining a part just for the Killer that's probably not a good idea. I bought mine a few weeks ago and I got serial number 1318, and I bet at least half of those if not more are in Europe. There just wouldn't be a big enough market for it. The best solution for me (and I'm assuming many other Killer owners who don't want a full plug) would be to have the o-ring that holds the tank to the bottom cap have just a little give on it. Not enough that it would fall off, but enough that you could spin it with a big of force (and who knows maybe your tanks already do that) and for the 510-510 that sits in the cap to he held snuggly in place.
Its easy enough to adjust orings. The ones we ship on the caps are 12 x 2mm so thats like 0.080" CS and all of the #0** imperial orings are 1/16" 0.070" actual so that is a looser one there. I would have to check but I think a #014 or #015 would be about right. Then if you needed something in between there are incremental metric orings (Japanese Standard I think) like 1.8, and 1.9mm CS. I will try and fit a few sizes and see what I come up with. The inside orings should be snug enough but if you want them tighter then going to a 9.5 x 2 will tighten it right up.
Anyhow, lets start out with the correct tube length and when we send that to you remind me and I will send you an assortment of orings. If we can get this sorted out it should make a lot of folks happy. You are absolutely right on the numbers if there are only 1300 of them out there and 2% wanted our caps I would end up sitting on an awful lot of caps for a very long time.
Anyhow, lets start out with the correct tube length and when we send that to you remind me and I will send you an assortment of orings. If we can get this sorted out it should make a lot of folks happy. You are absolutely right on the numbers if there are only 1300 of them out there and 2% wanted our caps I would end up sitting on an awful lot of caps for a very long time.
Actually, the way the IBTanked caps are, they're incredibly thin where the cap meets the glass, which is something I love about them, minimalism. So the best thing would be to have the cap outer o ring be as it is now, but the inner ring loose so you could spin the 510 adapter with your fingers.
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Just remember that The Mrs and I will be exit stage left from Wednesday until the following Monday, unless you do this like Monday or Tuesday (and even that I cant promise I will get to it in time before we leave) I would say wait until the following week and be sure to make real clear in the notes it is not for a regular 22mm Tube or someone might pack and ship it to ya
Love that! I have a CVI as well ... was thinking about a 19, but now I know I want a 22. Great pic!
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