Dry hits because of Ni200 wire?? I don’t get it.

[GeorgeS]

Greetings,

Ni200 has the best TCR of all wire types. Just about ANYTHING ought to be able to TCregulate it including the stock firmware of your eleaf device.

The problem that the stupid stock, articfox firmware and dna devices have is that they will sometimes (sometimes quite often) "forget" a coils cold resistance value even when 'locked' and then think there is a new coil leading to worse yet using a 'warm' resistance value as the base setting. You'll notice this where you'll suddenly get WAY MORE vapor and/or a dry hit.

Dicodes and YiHe devices won't do this.

IDK where you got the idea not to test fire a NI200 coil. Due to the conductive nature of the wire - NON-Contact coils only for NI200.

While I'll still use NI200 on devices that don't have custom TCR settings, my goto wire type in NiFE48. Not as soft as NI200 so its easier to work with. Less conductive so has higher resistance values leading to higher accuracy in the math for temperature regulation.


g.

 

[KurtVD]

I believe ArcticFox allows you to do the same thing. It has been awhile since I fired up ArcticFox.

One my version (I installed it 3 or 4 years ago and never updated it), I can’t set the resistance to whatever I want, at least not on the mod itself (I believe you can set it on the computer, if the mod is connected to it). Upon reset (for example removing and reinstalling the atomizer), if the measured resistance is different from what it was before, you get a message asking if you want to keep the old setting, or use the new value. I can’t set it to anything else.

However, there’s a way to cheat, for example if I feel that the measured resistance is too low, which happens sometimes (if I get very little, cool vapor even with TC set to high temperatures). In this case, I can observe the resistance go down after firing and double-click the fire button at some point before it has completely cooled, that will set it to this value. Afterwards I have to lock it, or it will set itself to the cold-state value again. I use this feature sometimes, usually to add like 1/100 Ohm (.16 instead of .15).

 

[KurtVD]

Yes I see what you are doing KurtVD. You are tricking it to get hotter than the calibrated temperature reading. Some might have a problem with that, but I don't. As I question some of the accuracy of some of these boards anyway.

Although I am curious, if you leave the atty sit for an hour or more (overnight is perfect) and then place it on the mod (and select new coil) and try to vape it, how high do you have to crank the temperature to get the vape you like? Does it even on the highest setting is still too cool for you?

Yes to the last question: I ‘should’ get a nice warm vapor at about 200C (392F), plus/minus about 25 degrees. It happens that even at a setting considerably above that, like 235C, I hardly get any vapor at all, just a little bit, and it’s so cool that it’s almost like nothing, taste wise as well. In these situations, setting the resistance just 1/100 Ohm higher is perfect, it will give me a big warm mouthful of vapor (I don’t inhale…). I have never done the math, but I always found it surprising that so little can make such a big difference.

 

[mimöschen]

You don't need to check for hotspots when building spaced coils, which is the only option for Ni200 wire.
Never ever build contact coils.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

Here is an example.

View attachment 970503

Dat's purdy!

 

[GeorgeS]

That is the first time I heard about NiFe wire, and I couldn’t find it on fasttech. Where would I be able to find that?

Years ago (2014-2015) while a bunch of us were experimenting with different wire types to temperature regulate, NiFE48/52 was the one I settled on to use. As easy to use as TI (firm, springy), similar resistance and better TCR (405) it is the ONLY wire I use unless the mod only supports NI and/or TI.

I got my supply of Nife from Germany. I've used 24-32awg (most builds are 26-28awg) and they offer 28&30awg NiFE flat wire. (fun to use!)


g.

 

[mimöschen]

Of course I have to check my spaced coils, I build them without special tools, I just wrap wire around a rod, and it’s totally possible that two wires get a little bit too close. If the coil is heating up unevenly, I need to correct that.

If you dryburn Ni200, the coil is ruined.
If the coil gets glowing hot, it develops a nickeloxide layer, which is toxic and highly unhealthy.
So no. You absolutely DO NOT want to DRYBURN NICKEL to check for hotspots. The same is true for titanium as well btw.

 

[KurtVD]

That worked really well, thanks for the tip. Unfortunately the only Ni200 spool I could find was 32 Gauge, and that’s really soft and flimsy. But this technique worked great anyway.

KurtVD, you can build them as contact coils too. Then usually on a rod it is easier and stretch it like a spring. If you stretch them too far you can compress them back again (although they probably will never get close enough for being contact coils again). Just a little practice you'll be a pro. Stiffer wires are a bit harder, but they are still doable.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

There are a few popular Review sites where the build is heated to bright orange/red? They do not explain the time or color to stop checking for hot spots. They then wick and vape.

Yup. That they do. I laugh every time I see one of "those".

Those so-called "popular" reviewers aren't very Educated when it comes to wire. And why are "they" popular? (rhetorical)

 

[ShowMeTwice]

It takes a few months to get a coil "gunked up" even with unflavored juice.

LMFAO. That ^^^ is a very lame and highly inaccurate statement. One that is made as though it's coming from a so-called expert. Who clearly is anything but.

You should have learned by now that your personal vaping experience does not apply to all. FYI, that was covered way back in Vaping 101. Thinking a refresher course is in order.

DRY BURNING (and YES very very bright red) There is nothing wrong with letting it GLOW.

Not very Bright about wire. Comical in fact. Must be one of those 'Popular Reviewers' who are glowing bright red.

Go do some ACTUAL research about wire Before Posting Complete and Utter Nonsense On a Public Forum For All To See.

Not going to waste my time trying to penetrate Thick Concrete in order educate you.

What is very crystal clear to me is you are not very experienced.

My advice to you... Think Before Replying To My Post. In fact don't bother. You will only be wasting your time.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

Thank you !

My pleasure Mate!

 

[KurtVD]

The one thing I do agree with him is that it’s a little bit of a waste of time to clean coils, whatever the wire type. Between wicking, installing and building the coil, I find the building part the easiest part, so why not just install a new one. A spool of wire costs a few $ and is good for dozens or even hundreds of coils…

LMFAO. That ^^^ is a very lame and highly inaccurate statement. One that is made as though it's coming from a so-called expert. Who clearly is anything but.

You should have learned by now that your personal vaping experience does not apply to all. FYI, that was covered way back in Vaping 101. Thinking a refresher course is in order.



Not very Bright about wire. Comical in fact. Must be one of those 'Popular Reviewers' who are glowing bright red.

Go do some ACTUAL research about wire Before Posting Complete and Utter Nonsense On a Public Forum For All To See.

Not going to waste my time trying to penetrate Thick Concrete in order educate you.

What is very crystal clear to me is you are not very experienced.

My advice to you... Think Before Replying To My Post. In fact don't bother. You will only be wasting your time.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

The one thing I do agree with him is that it’s a little bit of a waste of time to clean coils, whatever the wire type. Between wicking, installing and building the coil, I find the building part the easiest part, so why not just install a new one. A spool of wire costs a few $ and is good for dozens or even hundreds of coils…

That's a good option too.

 

[KurtVD]

I agree, and the interesting part is that I have vaped my tank dry a number of times, and if I didn’t get any dry hits while the tank was full, I didn’t get any once it was empty either. But I agree that TC on a DNA mod is certainly smoother than on mine (eleaf Pico 75).
I’m not getting full on dry hits as one would get without TC, but I can definitely taste burnt cotton, and it’s disgusting.

And most importantly, dry hits shouldn’t occur even when vaping without TC on, right? So other than my mod not being great at TC, there’s a different underlying problem here, and I can’t seem to find it…

You should never get any dry hits in TC-mode. Seems like your mod isn't up to the task.

 

[440BB]

Don’t know if anyone is going to be reading this, but I ended up finding out what it was…: I got the dry hits because of hot spots, simple as that. Since I was told that you should never test fire a NI coil, I just built and installed them and hoped it was going to be ok.
I will switch to building contact coils, hopefully that will solve it.

Glad you figured this out!

 

[KurtVD]

That is the first time I heard about NiFe wire, and I couldn’t find it on fasttech. Where would I be able to find that?

Greetings,

.

While I'll still use NI200 on devices that don't have custom TCR settings, my goto wire type in NiFE48. Not as soft as NI200 so its easier to work with. Less conductive so has higher resistance values leading to higher accuracy in the math for temperature regulation.


g.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

NiFE48 wire - Google Search

Pretty sure you won't get that in China and maybe not even in the USA

 

[BillW50]

Yes I see what you are doing KurtVD. You are tricking it to get hotter than the calibrated temperature reading. Some might have a problem with that, but I don't. As I question some of the accuracy of some of these boards anyway.

Although I am curious, if you leave the atty sit for an hour or more (overnight is perfect) and then place it on the mod (and select new coil) and try to vape it, how high do you have to crank the temperature to get the vape you like? Does it even on the highest setting is still too cool for you?

 

[KurtVD]

Greetings,

IDK where you got the idea not to test fire a NI200 coil. Due to the conductive nature of the wire - NON-Contact coils only for NI200.

Here, but I forgot when and which thread. I didn’t get a definitive yes/no answer, but one or two posters thought that it would be better to never heat it up that much, not even to test for hot spots.

QUOTE="GeorgeS, post: 23485982, member: 258194"]Greetings,

Ni200 has the best TCR of all wire types. Just about ANYTHING ought to be able to TCregulate it including the stock firmware of your eleaf device.

[/QUOTE]

i see. But given that the resistance of Ni200 is very low, doesn’t that mean that it heats up quicker than a wire with high resistance? Which means that the mod must react quicker to prevent ‘over’heating (over the set temp), correct? So in this sense it would be true that Ni200 makes dry hits more likely (obviously only if there’s something wrong in the first place, like bad wicking), isn’t it?

 

[mimöschen]

1. Don't dryburn nickel.

2. No.