Well, you gotta admit it's funny. Posting a pic of their stolen intellectual property on their facebook page, and then being mad at them for deleting it...without a warning! 
Dvarw MTL RTA & MTL FL (clones)
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Has become my favorite and I also picked up an authentic... looking forward to the 16mm version!
Stealing their intellectual property? Did they patent their rta? No! Don’t want your stuff stolen? Patent it then sell it! Rtas have been around long enough! There are plenty of designs out there.
It’s their own fault they didn’t sell their own low cost version of it. Call it something else. It is not uncommon in many industries for low end and high end versions of the same product to be made in the same factory.
And it is not like they are pioneers of anything here. Let’s be honest, it’s your typical rta with not a lot of features. None in fact. This isn’t an rta for a person new to rtas. People look for top fill and adjustable airflow. These rtas are made for people who already know exactly what they want, down to the airflow, already having found and used their adv juice, coil builds etc. The best thing this rta has going for its design lends to cheap manufacturing. No tight manufacturing tolerances because all the critical stuff is held and sealed with o-rings. Threads can be wide open on tolerances as shown on the clone. End mills for milled features can be bigger due to simple design, so they can be run harder and faster to improve machine cycle times and tolerances. If they wanted to make it cheaper they could have done it.
FYI I have a background in machining, mostly CNC lathe with live tooling, spindle mill axis, bar feeder etc so round parts like on RTAs with milled features are right up my alley. Machines that can make every part on the dvarw in one setup. A brief visual overview of the quality of the clone, without even looking inside it, is that it was made in multiple operations on several machines (two lathe setups per part, one or two mill vise setups per part) This is immediately apparent if you look at the blend of the radius of AF slot to the outside diameter. The radius on the sides digs into the outside diameter too much.
Does the authentic have perfect blends? Perfect threads? Worth an extra $110?
If they were a little bit smarter about it they would have figured out how to make it for $30 dollars or so, so more people would buy their authentic and the cloners would have less incentive to try to improve on that process (ie Berserker rta)
It’s their own fault they didn’t sell their own low cost version of it. Call it something else. It is not uncommon in many industries for low end and high end versions of the same product to be made in the same factory.
And it is not like they are pioneers of anything here. Let’s be honest, it’s your typical rta with not a lot of features. None in fact. This isn’t an rta for a person new to rtas. People look for top fill and adjustable airflow. These rtas are made for people who already know exactly what they want, down to the airflow, already having found and used their adv juice, coil builds etc. The best thing this rta has going for its design lends to cheap manufacturing. No tight manufacturing tolerances because all the critical stuff is held and sealed with o-rings. Threads can be wide open on tolerances as shown on the clone. End mills for milled features can be bigger due to simple design, so they can be run harder and faster to improve machine cycle times and tolerances. If they wanted to make it cheaper they could have done it.
FYI I have a background in machining, mostly CNC lathe with live tooling, spindle mill axis, bar feeder etc so round parts like on RTAs with milled features are right up my alley. Machines that can make every part on the dvarw in one setup. A brief visual overview of the quality of the clone, without even looking inside it, is that it was made in multiple operations on several machines (two lathe setups per part, one or two mill vise setups per part) This is immediately apparent if you look at the blend of the radius of AF slot to the outside diameter. The radius on the sides digs into the outside diameter too much.
Does the authentic have perfect blends? Perfect threads? Worth an extra $110?
If they were a little bit smarter about it they would have figured out how to make it for $30 dollars or so, so more people would buy their authentic and the cloners would have less incentive to try to improve on that process (ie Berserker rta)
What juice capacity might that 16mm have? Yes I definitely find myself grabbing the dwarv more and more compared to my other rtas
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Honestly , all that has nothing to do with posting a clone pic on their site, that is just kind of strange....
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Hey, let me just say this, I love clones. I think this is a great clone. When I hit the fire button, what I experience at the drip tip is the most important.
Actually I had a question for them, the question was, will they be coming out with mtl inserts for the 24mm? I didn’t get an answer.
The reply was for brewdawg about intellectual property.
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Assuming no mechanical defects (shorts), at typical MTL power levels and draw durations, even fake 18650s won’t be strained.
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Started with 1.2mm afc, too tight, now on 1.6mm too loose. Going to drill out the 1 and .8mm inserts. Can’t seem to find my jet drill set. Have only a .049 drill (1.25mm) that I’ll use to drill out the 1.2mm.
Was vaping too much juice at 6 wrap 26g SST (.35o). Just went down to a 5 wrap 26g (.29o), still vaping too much so might try a 4 wrap in a few days. Trying to get under 10mL per day. Not looking to increase nic, as chain vaping gives me a nic headache. Coils do last longer here because of the large amount of wicking on the deck.
Was vaping too much juice at 6 wrap 26g SST (.35o). Just went down to a 5 wrap 26g (.29o), still vaping too much so might try a 4 wrap in a few days. Trying to get under 10mL per day. Not looking to increase nic, as chain vaping gives me a nic headache. Coils do last longer here because of the large amount of wicking on the deck.
I feel the same way...I initially felt 1.2 was to tight and drilled to 1.6, but I think when drilling, the slight wobble of a hand held drill makes it slightly bigger...anyways l don't have anything in between, but would think like 1.4 would be perfect......anyways for your wraps, I'm thinking your going the opposite way to reduce juice consumption. ..it would seem to me if you are keeping your wattage the same and lowering resistance, then your coil is getting hotter, thus using more juice....
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It seems to me that Dvarw consumes a bit more juice than most other tanks, perhaps that’s why it gives a very tasty and intense vape.
I use 0,8 mm air pin and 1,5ohm kanthal coil and it seems that I have to refill the 3,5ml tank quite often.
I use 0,8 mm air pin and 1,5ohm kanthal coil and it seems that I have to refill the 3,5ml tank quite often.
It’s temp controlled. The only thing that changes is the surface area of the coil. The mod does everything else. I got the setup working on one SST coil, now I can build any SST and get the same vape pretty much.
You know what would be cool, is adjustable airflow like on a carburetor jet. A conical end screw oringed and spring loaded. I once made an adjustable jet for a non adjustable carb using a Tecumseh adjustable main jet and it was lovely, I could adjust the mixture in seconds. This would work great on a dvarw. The only question is how to keep the low height and the adjustment fine. I’m ready to design it but I don’t want to fab it
It’s temp controlled. The only thing that changes is the surface area of the coil. The mod does everything else. I got the setup working on one SST coil, now I can build any SST and get the same vape pretty much.
You know what would be cool, is adjustable airflow like on a carburetor jet. A conical end screw oringed and spring loaded. I once made an adjustable jet for a non adjustable carb using a Tecumseh adjustable main jet and it was lovely, I could adjust the mixture in seconds. This would work great on a dvarw. The only question is how to keep the low height and the adjustment fine. I’m ready to design it but I don’t want to fab it
Yes that would be nice and would make for a very fine adjustment. . of course your normal af ring is not that great for fine adjustments and the jet type would definitely be an upgrade, I would dig that as long as it kind of looked good...because I don't use TC, my mind doesn't compute the differences in wraps, so yes in that case I'm not really sure...i guess if temperature stays the same, then by changing wraps wouldn't make any difference in juice consumption? Maybe it could be the other way in TC, as if temp remains the same and gauge, then a less wrap coil would take less initial wattage to get to temp, thus perhaps less juice? Either way it cannot be much difference. ....in also concur that the dvarw goes thru more juice then my other rtas
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I’m thinking some kind of micro sprocket with the cone part and a smaller sprocket on the outside you push with your finger, or maybe a worm gear, lol I dunno. Maybe I’ll just get another set of jet drills lol!
The thing that makes the biggest difference in consumption is the amount of surface area of the coil. Not necessarily a bigger coil. This is why claptoned coils are popular among cloud chasers. These coils are the same size as larger wire but in fact have way more surface area. Like if you took a ball of aluminum, then extruded that same material into a heat sink. The amount of metal is the same but by spreading it thin you increase surface area.
On a regulated mod 30w is going to be 30w no matter what the resistance. How fast the coil warms up has mostly to do with the amount of metal in the coil. A high resistance kanthal micro coil will heat up much faster than a large claptoned subohm dual coil at the same power. With that said, a claptoned micro coil will heat faster than a large single gauge coil, but not proportionately so because more juice on the coil also takes more power to heat up.
Temp control takes regulated wattage mode a step further by guessing the temperature by measuring the change in resistance of the coil as it heats up. I won’t go into it right now (but if you want to know how it works I can). So where you’ve learned to release the fire button after some duration, let’s say 1.2 seconds, TC will already have reduced power to keep the same power as long as the fire button is pressed.
Power mode in mtl is really a trade off. We set high power to get it to heat faster because our draws are so short, but release the fire button soon after to not smoke the wick. You could call power mode “manual temperature control”.
Really the best thing about tc is once you get it dialed, you will never experience a dry hit again. Even with a dry wick on an empty tank. It heats faster and hits the limiter sooner when there is no juice to cool it off.
When I was new to vaping I tried to set it up but didn’t know what I was doing and just went with wattage mode. But after learning how it works and spending some time dialing it in, there is just no going back unless it a mech (power mode with set voltage, you set power by changing resistance P=V²/R). And that’s why tc is so good. With a bigger coil you increase the power to get it to heat faster, but in tc the mod automatically adjusts so that your coil gets to the same temp no matter how big it is or what its resistance.
I totally understand TC, it's just that I never got into it, so from personal experience I cannot compare results between differences of a wrap or two of same gauge at same temp. I was totally thinking power mode when I commented, but in TC mode I can understand what your saying. It's just something I never thought about, just how opposite that senario is in TC compared to power mode, kind of cool. I tried messing with tc a couple times, but I personally didn't see any real differences. I know that one good thing is no dry hits, but in my 7 years of doing rebuildables, I probably had 2 or 3 dryhits. I'm just to set I'm my ways I guess, to old school perhaps....I think the only time I would liked it is when the aqua v1 by footon came out. I really loved that rta back then, but the tank had no window to see your juice.
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