Does everyone cut the wicks when they PTB? I just install two folded plugs at the cup slits and it wicks fine for me - even at 3.7v.
E2 Revision 4 Cartomizer Discussion
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i cut the wicks on only one r4 ... previous version i left the wicks in cant really tell the diff between wicking, both ways seem to work.....
measure how much you can refill one with wick, and one with Lptb
if the Lptb carto can take more liquid at refill, then I would think that the one with the wick is also keeping liquid for itself towards the end, and not releasing it to the coil.
I'm not sure how much the current wick can hold though...maybe a third of a ml? or 1/2?
if the Lptb carto can take more liquid at refill, then I would think that the one with the wick is also keeping liquid for itself towards the end, and not releasing it to the coil.
I'm not sure how much the current wick can hold though...maybe a third of a ml? or 1/2?
Thanks, that's been my experience with them as well. Straw mod does help, some.
Bruce is a good man.
Would I be correct in assuming that the ohm value is effectively irrelevant if you have a variable voltage PV since you can just dial down the volts until it wicks perfectly?
Just got my first 510 E2 R4 XLs, am quite impressed so far - have not had to modify it at all and its vaping like a champ. My only quibble is that the filling holes are tiny, but thats ok.
Question: Is there much difference between the XL and the normal 510 E2s in terms of how they vape? A couple of people in another forum said that the normal sized version gave a better throat hit.
Question: Is there much difference between the XL and the normal 510 E2s in terms of how they vape? A couple of people in another forum said that the normal sized version gave a better throat hit.
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Thanks for your answer v1John,
Yep, EMS delivers from China to Australia faster than our own postal service does within Oz. My record was 4 days but usually 5 to 7 days. I was really wondering if the E2 guys had these to go. You answered that as it depends on stock.
We Aussies may get lumbered with the .......omizers so I may wait as I am going to Hongkong and Thailand soon. I am hoping I don't end up in jail with my PV's
So thank you again.
RC
I use Rivas/Ego.
A few days ago, I put aside my first 510xl ce2 r4 2.5 ohms carto because it became unpleasant. When I first filled it, it tasted good until about 1/2 way through. Then it became dry and tasteless, and then slightly acrid.
I decided to try another one today. This time I dry burned it first and then filled it up. For the first half hour or so it was wonderful, and now another hour later, it is tasting just like the first. Yuck.
I then opened up the first one to see if it was a genuine r4 or a bastomizer. It was a genuine r4. No polyfill, not glops of silicone or glue BUT the wick was too short and it was burnt. When I touched the wick, it started to fall apart. The wicking material looks a little different than the wick in my rev3.5.
The one I'm presently using is getting a PTB mod later today.
I am hoping that the rev4's in 3ohms will work for me because right now I'm not a happy puppy.
A few days ago, I put aside my first 510xl ce2 r4 2.5 ohms carto because it became unpleasant. When I first filled it, it tasted good until about 1/2 way through. Then it became dry and tasteless, and then slightly acrid.
I decided to try another one today. This time I dry burned it first and then filled it up. For the first half hour or so it was wonderful, and now another hour later, it is tasting just like the first. Yuck.
I then opened up the first one to see if it was a genuine r4 or a bastomizer. It was a genuine r4. No polyfill, not glops of silicone or glue BUT the wick was too short and it was burnt. When I touched the wick, it started to fall apart. The wicking material looks a little different than the wick in my rev3.5.
The one I'm presently using is getting a PTB mod later today.
I am hoping that the rev4's in 3ohms will work for me because right now I'm not a happy puppy.
Most of the XL's that I have tested begin running dry about 1/2 way through. I don't know how you have been using yours, but I have to start laying mine on the side between vapes when this happens, and then vape them in the horizontal position. Every now and then I run across one that will vape the reservoir dry from a vertical position. This applies to all 510 and 808 XL versions, both 2.5Ω and 3Ω, with the exception of the 510 R4, which I have not had an opportunity to test yet.
My hopes are the same as yours concerning the 510 R4's at 3Ω.
I finally got around to ohming out the R3.75/R4s that you sent me Bad. One ohmed at 2.5 (no wonder it was so dry tasting) two ohmed at 2.9 and the last (prefilled true R4) ohmed at 3.0. These are just the 510 XLs. I tried a couple of the 808s on a VGo and they were dry/burnt tasting (unmodded).
Thanks for your reply br.
When it started to dry out today, I recalled reading one of your posts yesterday or the day before (?) where you mentioned vaping in a horizontal position, and it worked but I got hot juice burning my lips too.
Also, the taste of the juice remained acrid. These are either over cooking the juice or as I mentioned in my prior post, my wicks were burnt and it's possible that the burnt residue from the wicks are leeching into the juice. Not good either way.
Here's hoping that the 3 ohms will solve the problem.
BTW...the ohm symbol looks similar to the symbol for the astological sign, Leo.
my 3.0 ohm works superb on a silver bullet 3.7, prodigy v3, but if i throw it on a fresh vgo i get the bad taste, when i use it ona vgo thats about 20 minutes used then it seems to be at a lower volt and it works great from there.
they need to be matched like br said. once you know its max then you stay under that .
they need to be matched like br said. once you know its max then you stay under that .
Thanks for your reply br.
When it started to dry out today, I recalled reading one of your posts yesterday or the day before (?) where you mentioned vaping in a horizontal position, and it worked but I got hot juice burning my lips too.
These are either over cooking the juice or as I mentioned in my prior post, my wicks were burnt and it's possible that the burnt residue from the wicks are leeching into the juice. Not good either way.
Here's hoping that the 3 ohms will solve the problem.
BTW...the ohm symbol looks similar to the symbol for the astological sign, Leo.
Yeah, sometimes if I get too horizontal, the same thing happens with me and I tilt it down slightly. Either a leaking E2 or condensation can be a cause. I get confused about laying one on its side or standing it up or tilting while using or whatnot and howsoever. I don't want to do a juggling act and that's why I make a big issue about testing one with the battery pointing down.
I don't know about the acrid taste, tho.
I believe the ohm symbol is the Greek Omega sign, or something like that.
Bad, what device did I see you use in a video for vaping at 5 volts? I knew at the time, but forgot. Wasn't it just a pass through connected directly to the switch assembly? I don't need the battery, but I am looking for a pass through that will give me the same input and output voltage.
I've been using R3's (I think...) and some were great as is, most went bad after one or two refills. I found the ones that went bad were ok with ptb added, but became great again by adding ptb AND cutting the wicks.
BR, that is a puresmoker 5v pt, i have a indulgence pt as well but it feel like its giving a little higher then 3.7 but not much but the silver pt feels like 5v like my other mods at 5v. and i connect them to a usb wllplug 5v 2000mah
my e2's run way to hot in it for some reason, havent tried any 3.1's on it though.
my e2's run way to hot in it for some reason, havent tried any 3.1's on it though.
So I ended up finding a few real r4s in the batch I got and I think there's only one thing I'd change. (besides replacing most of the wick with the ptb material which they've said they won't.)
I really wish the casing (sleeve) was ceramic instead of metal and not just the cup. The end can get a little too warm for me. Does anyone make ceramic drip tips? All I've got are some really cheap plastic ones that I'm afraid would melt.
I really wish the casing (sleeve) was ceramic instead of metal and not just the cup. The end can get a little too warm for me. Does anyone make ceramic drip tips? All I've got are some really cheap plastic ones that I'm afraid would melt.
Probably not the answer you're looking for, but I order mine in black and the paper wrap does a pretty good job of keeping the carto from getting too hot.
Don't have any drip-tip experience so someone else will have to chime in.
if its a 2.5 ohm r4 it will get hot,the 2.9,3.0 ohm are much better all around.
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