Easy OKR-T VV mod

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bstedh

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I found a step-up-step-down regulator on a robot website that someone else had linked to for a batt.
It is perfect for our needs and is tiny and cheap. Only problem is a low amp rating. I contacted the company
and they are gonna talk to the mnf and see what they can come up with.

Make sure to let us know what you find.
 

VpnDrgn

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The big thing that has kept me away from the buck/boost option is all the other components that are needed.

The only reason I haven't chased this option harder is because of my limited soldering skills.
I have the chip already and a big assortment of resistors. I just need the pot, the caps, and the diode.

Maybe someone will trade some soldering skills for a chip or two.

Thanks a lot guys, this has given me a lot of food for thought. I have the LM2596 pre-assembled board,
so I'll prolly do the regular VV box mod first for some practice; then move on to the VV booster tube
mod I have an idea for.
 

Scubabatdan

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Looks good, but I would make a custom PCB for the trimmer and (SMD) resistor from the first page, less things floating around. That way I could use the thumb wheel trimmer and poke it through the cover so I could thumb up or down. Might us that on a poly tube proximity touch design I have been thinking on.
Dan
 

bstedh

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Looks good, but I would make a custom PCB for the trimmer and (SMD) resistor from the first page, less things floating around. That way I could use the thumb wheel trimmer and poke it through the cover so I could thumb up or down. Might us that on a poly tube proximity touch design I have been thinking on.
Dan

That's pretty much what I did on my vv weller. I cut a piece of circuit board out of an old remote control to solder the trimmer and resistor to so I had somehting to mount it against. I did re-do it from this pic to make it a little cleaner however.

IMAG0077.jpg
 

bstedh

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bstedh

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When I said a custom PCB I ment somthing like this, then you only have three wires to worry about :)

View attachment 40445

Dan

Gotcha...

I like to have the POT remotely locatable however. Depending on the mod body in use this would be great for those who have the ability to create a board. The last time I made one of my own was ummm many many years ago. I think I was still in high school =]
 

Scubabatdan

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Gotcha...

I like to have the POT remotely locatable however. Depending on the mod body in use this would be great for those who have the ability to create a board. The last time I made one of my own was ummm many many years ago. I think I was still in high school =]

LOL I never made one until recently, all you need is a laser printer, and iron, copper board, hydrogen peroxide, and muratic acid (pool supply store). Mix the peroxide and muratic acid 50/50. Print out the circuit reverse image and iron on a copper board that you scrubbed bright with stainless steel wool. Once cooled soak in water for 10 min and rub the paper off. Then drop in the acid bath for 5-10 min and rinse with water, then solder the chips on. TADA! instant custom PCB.
Dan
 

Silent Soldier

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LOL I never made one until recently, all you need is a laser printer, and iron, copper board, hydrogen peroxide, and muratic acid (pool supply store). Mix the peroxide and muratic acid 50/50. Print out the circuit reverse image and iron on a copper board that you scrubbed bright with stainless steel wool. Once cooled soak in water for 10 min and rub the paper off. Then drop in the acid bath for 5-10 min and rinse with water, then solder the chips on. TADA! instant custom PCB.
Dan

I'm having a bit of trouble understanding how the process you described creates separate leads from a sheet of copper. Do you need any kind of special paper or ink? I'm guessing you would want the copper side down and drill holes for through hole components and copper up with no holes for surface mount?

Edit:
Never mind, just watched a few vids on youtube on pcb etching and it makes sense now. Ink from the printed paper covers and protects the leads and the chemicals eat away the exposed copper. Pretty cool stuff, it looks like they are using glossy photo paper for it.
 
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CapeCAD

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LOL I never made one until recently, all you need is a laser printer, and iron, copper board, hydrogen peroxide, and muratic acid (pool supply store). Mix the peroxide and muratic acid 50/50. Print out the circuit reverse image and iron on a copper board that you scrubbed bright with stainless steel wool. Once cooled soak in water for 10 min and rub the paper off. Then drop in the acid bath for 5-10 min and rinse with water, then solder the chips on. TADA! instant custom PCB.
Dan

I went the other route and just finished building a CNC machine to route out the copper and drill the holes. This machine will produce .008 width and space in 2 Oz copper with ~.0004 accuracy and repeatability.

The chemicals and hassle of etching were not a problem, but drilling the .018-.037 dia holes accurately were another story.

capecad-albums-cnc-picture40448-drillmillroute.jpg
 

bstedh

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I wonder if a plasma table could be set to a low enough temp to only burn through the copper and not the PCB. Anyway I have hacked together a couple of boards in the past free hand with a Dremel and pointed engraving bit. PITA for anything more than a couple of traces but it works. =]
 

bstedh

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I went the other route and just finished building a CNC machine to route out the copper and drill the holes. This machine will produce .008 width and space in 2 Oz copper with ~.0004 accuracy and repeatability.

The chemicals and hassle of etching were not a problem, but drilling the .018-.037 dia holes accurately were another story.

capecad-albums-cnc-picture40448-drillmillroute.jpg


Always drill your holes prior to etching and use a center punch to lightly tap a dimple in the copper prior to drilling so your bit does not walk on you. Also you can get better accuracy drilling with a Dremel than a drill. A lot of people will tell you not to do this as the acid can get in where you drilled but I just put a tiny drip of melted wax in the holes and it works great. This also ensures your copper goes right up to the edge of your hole giving you a better solder connection.
 
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