Easy OKR-T VV mod
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at first i thought of it as shorting out and then i realized its not because of the high value resistor. still learning here. im an electrician by trade who would like to be an EE someday perhaps, i question every little detail of things for the sake of understanding
put it together and it works beautifully with a little tactile switch
Great! Post a pic when u get a chance.
So, how many people are still actively using their OKR mods? I have let mine sit in a pile of parts pretty much since I got my Provari. I have been thinking of resurrecting mine to have a box mod to play with for something new, as I have been using the provari and LT exclusively for quite a while now. I have actually been kicking around the idea of gutting my LT and putting the parts into the wood mod I got from Meatsneakers as I killed the switch in it. I was even thinking of going as far as getting an old Provari off the classies and putting it's guts into a nice wood box.
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My 510 connection crapped out and so it's sitting on the bench waiting for somebody to get enough umph to work on it. Z/VMaxing these days.
I have so many mods that I built sitting in front of me and only one of them is the OKR. The OKR is fantastic but my main vape is with my MCU Nokia boost (04050c) mod. The OKR still works well. I suppose I should fire it up from time to time.
bstedh,
I'm still running mine strong that I built off of your schematic (in Aug. of 2011 see post #164 of this thread). That's a year of running her hard. I burn through about 5mil a day of juice on my box mod that the OKR is built into. No complaints my friend. Thanks again
. If she ever burns out, I have you schematic hanging on my workbench wall. Easy to build a new one if necessary.
I'm still running mine strong that I built off of your schematic (in Aug. of 2011 see post #164 of this thread). That's a year of running her hard. I burn through about 5mil a day of juice on my box mod that the OKR is built into. No complaints my friend. Thanks again
. If she ever burns out, I have you schematic hanging on my workbench wall. Easy to build a new one if necessary.
Breaktru, do you think a digital pot would work with the OKR-T or 4050C? Have you tried it? I think with the OKR-T that it would be tough to find one with a low enough value. I think that would be the ultimate in selecting the voltage.
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Yes I have put the DP in the OKR, 08100w and the 04050C. The problem is the OKR and the 08100w requires a 200 ohm value. The lowest DP value for tact sw control is 10k. You would have to parallel a fixed resistor across the DP which causes adjustment to not be easy to adjust. It's hard to FINE adjust. But it's manageable to some extent. I have a schematic on my site. See the Side x Side mod
hi scubabatdan !
just went throug this the problem was the paper must be inkjet to work and office depot did not want to use it on the laser
laser paper did not work !!
since i had the board all worked out and only make one for my 4050 c i just drilled the holes turned around and used nail polish for etchresist. kind of crude but with the etching solution you used also worked fine...at least i did not waste the time for laying out the board
rolf
just went throug this the problem was the paper must be inkjet to work and office depot did not want to use it on the laser
laser paper did not work !!
since i had the board all worked out and only make one for my 4050 c i just drilled the holes turned around and used nail polish for etchresist. kind of crude but with the etching solution you used also worked fine...at least i did not waste the time for laying out the board
rolf
I figured too that a paralleled resistance would be needed and that would be a tougher adjustment. Any thoughts or a suggestion for the DP?
The 04050C has a standard range of 5v to 15. Were you able to get less from it - perhaps with a voltage divider cap arrangement on the output or using outside-of-the-range adj. resistor values?
I have had success using the glossy type advertisement flyer paper for making circuit board - you just print with your laser printer right over the existing print! I read of this technique somewhere on the web and it does work.
Is anyone making a mechanical out of 3/4" copper pipe? Is so how? Pic? Any help or suggestions are appreciated
How low of ohms can this be fired without frying internals. Or is It just 10amp and ohms don't matter? Is there a chip capable of 20amp that I can use instead? I know this thread is old and maybe there are some better chips out now
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Rapture and Raptor, it's meant to be. So how hard would it be for me to make a mod with this chip. I'm a natural born tinkerer but have little knowledge on electricity apart from building coils, which I have been doing for over a year.
Do you think it would be hard to build something with like the cap from my brass m16 clone as the top to this mod. The top cap that has the spring loaded pin. I want a box mod with the ability to flush mount my attys.
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Do you think it would be hard to build something with like the cap from my brass m16 clone as the top to this mod. The top cap that has the spring loaded pin. I want a box mod with the ability to flush mount my attys.
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