Ehpro caravela

[erawtik]

So I picked this up tonight, got the 18650 version. We'll my problem is I noticed when I fire it half the time it seems to barley fire. So Iv been playing with it and when I notice it hardly firing if I apply a lot of pressure to the button it seems to fire nice and hard. The way I can describe it best is one of them light switches where you turn the dial the light gets brighter as you turn the dial, the harder I push the button the harder it hits. Another thing none of the center pins fit the long is to long and the medium is to short.

 

[State O' Flux]

The design is a bit different, and although EhPro quality is arguably some of the best China has to offer, it's still built at a price. As a side note, EhPro has been making this "Caravela styled" mod for some time now, but only recently have they been applying the "sailing ship" logo to some versions. I prefer the "sterile' version myself.

If you disassemble the button/lock, you'll find that the button's primary continuity is via the axial surfaces of the button shaft, surrounding locking collet - and on to the tube. The button shaft is typically well machined, plated in gold or similar and unless this has changed in recent times, can be left alone.

• As the machining of the locking collet ID is only fair, and may actually cause the button to bind, by using a fine lapping compound, or a BRM Flexhone, you can smooth this ID considerably and effect two things. 1. A smoother movement. 2. Improved continuity... which attends to your first concern.
  If a BRM Flexhone is used, about 10 -20 seconds at 150 RPM+/- on a two stroke per second interval is adequate to "top off" the surface ridges and offer a lubrication bearing crosshatch of approximately 60 degrees. Don't overdo the time, or you'll end up increasing the radial clearance.
  Almost forgot... you can make or buy a sanding mop, fit it with wet 600 grit sandpaper, and have a similar result.
  
  
• Next item, also with the locking collet. Most of these mods have a fairly well threaded locking collet and shaft bushing. Nice fit, good continuity. If yours is a bit on the loose side, you can improve continuity, of course, by cleaning and then applying a thin layer of silver grease (link is for information, buy from Amazon, a bit cheaper ;-)) and/or making sure that the locking collet is completely and firmly seated in the firing position - this last bit alone will improve continuity somewhat vs. a lock collet "floating" in mid thread.

If you're not mechanically inclined and the above is all just Greek...
Much of the issue is "newness". As the mod "breaks in", if you do nothing but keep it clean and a thin film of Noalox et al, applied, your poor continuity issues will go away, for the most part, of their own accord. If not... I'll give you a $20 for it.

The center pins... well, you can make any length you like from brass or copper screws.

Cheers

 

[erawtik]

I think that is the problem there is a slight and I mean slight like a hair wobble in the button. When I have it off if I press it like I would if it was on the mod it kinda goes up at the slightest angle then if I push a bit more I can see it straightens itself out. So only a corner of the switch button is making contact with the battery. Now for the adjustment pins I know I could grind the long one down a bit I just didnt want to loose conductivity if the pin is plated.

 

[State O' Flux]

I think that is the problem there is a slight and I mean slight like a hair wobble in the button.

What you feel as excess radial clearance is actually only .002"/0.05mm... but it feels much more "wobbly" because of the short axial length.
Of the 6 (EhPro Cara' style mech buttons) that I've measured, they average 0.0425"/10.98mm on the shaft and 0.04345"/11.03mm for the collet ID.

Not much to do, but make it smooth and keep it clean and lightly coated with an anti-corrosive - they do improve a bit with use.

 

[State O' Flux]

Ah... the example I was looking for. A "high buck mod" tested... with an excess of radial clearance. So even stuff they have the stones to charge a few hundred for, or more, has "less expensive mod" issues.

You can actually see the clearance (albeit a bit exaggerated at the end of the axle) in this photo. (and the logo isn't even centered - for the sake of buyers, hope this shot is of a prototype)

So, some of the high enders aren't as well made as the EhPros... again, from my perspective, the best mech mods China makes. After all, it's just tubes and caps, buttons and contacts. If you're going to charge $200+, it should have first rate hand fitting - IMO. ;-)

 

[KurrptSenate]

How much did you pay?

I just purchased an HCigar caravela off of ebay with all 3 tubes for 37 shipped.

I know the igetcha69 review of the real caravela states you need to have your finger primarily in the middle of the button to fire it consistently

 

[State O' Flux]

How much did you pay?

I just purchased an HCigar caravela off of ebay with all 3 tubes for 37 shipped.

I know the igetcha69 review of the real caravela states you need to have your finger primarily in the middle of the button to fire it consistently

When it comes down to it, it's not so much about price... because people will buy what they can afford - but rather if it works and satisfies the individual aesthetic - and if the teller of the tale is telling the truth... or padding their own story to support their version of the truth.

Seldom do you find integrity, sufficient to push aside pride (or self-preservation) - and blind honesty is a rare commodity.

Then again, some wouldn't know quality... if it bit them on the ....


I do tend to wax philosophical... apologies.

 

[the4thpower3]

I'm not following you around StateO'Flux - I came over to the APV section to post about my newly acquired SS Origin from FT.

I happened to see this and was going to give my input - but it seems you've covered most of it.
Speaking of shaft play - the Tobeco Turtleship clone I recently purchased has long shaft and fits tightly in the hole

OP. Are you sure you don't have any battery rattle and your atty is making proper contact?
I still pick up my EHpro Caravela clone every now and then and I have no such issue - even with the excessive shaft play.
But gotta make sure everything fits nice and tight.

 

[State O' Flux]

Tobeco Turtleship clone I recently purchased has long shaft and fits tightly in the hole

Says her.

(Too easy... apologies to all women everywhere for my antiquated male chauvinist pig humor)

 

[the4thpower3]

Says her.

(Too easy... apologies to all women everywhere for my antiquated male chauvinist pig humor)

I was setting you up for it. Pig.

 

[State O' Flux]

I'm not following you around StateO'Flux - I came over to the APV section to post about my newly acquired SS Origin from FT.

I happened to see this and was going to give my input - but it seems you've covered most of it.
Speaking of shaft play - the Tobeco Turtleship clone I recently purchased has long shaft and fits tightly in the hole

OP. Are you sure you don't have any battery rattle and your atty is making proper contact?
I still pick up my EHpro Caravela clone every now and then and I have no such issue - even with the excessive shaft play.
But gotta make sure everything fits nice and tight.

Back to the case at hand... no more funny business. Promise.

I've not seen the Geobukseon clone in hand yet... but I'll take your word. If you have a digital caliper you trust the accuracy of, I'd like to know the radial clearance and axial length.
You can actually calculate (it is math after all) the radial "side lash" of the end of an axis, based on the length of that axis. (now, if I could only remember that particular formula - Alzheimer's ya' know )

Anyway... just a small add to axial length can dramatically reduce perceived & measured shaft end - side lash.

 

[KurrptSenate]

I was just wondering how much he paid in store. The only shop around me that carried it didn't know the manufacturer and only included 1 tube for $70. That seemed a bit much for me so i pulled the the trigger on the one i purchased

 

[the4thpower3]

Back to the case at hand...
now, if I could only remember that particular formula - Alzheimer's ya' know )

Yeah you look about 69 in your profile pic.
So not to hi-jack this thread I posted answers to your request HERE

 

[State O' Flux]

Yeah you look about 69 in your profile pic.
So not to hi-jack this thread I posted answers to your request HERE

Saw that earlier... seems to be of decent quality where it counts.
Hard to tell relationships with angled photos, but as the lock ring ID frequently contributes more to support and continuity than the button shaft bushing, ya' might want to get a number on that. I suspect that's where all the close tolerance axial support is provided - yes?

Shaft measurement radial / axial end lash "quality" would be derived from two things - the total combined "supported" shaft value, and to a lesser degree, the "overhang" or unsupported... or even to put it another way, the "leveraged" value.
For the latter, you'd need to measure all the button bushing and lock ring collet ID combined lengths, minus all the the (close tolerance radially supported items only) shaft lengths combined... as long as those radial surfaces are close clearance parts.

 

[zipflint]

I just got a copper EHPro from eciggity and IT IS GORGEOUS. I literally just took it outta the box. Everything seems to be in order, but I wanted to ask about initial cleaning and maintenance.

I usually disassemble everything and give all the parts a thorough rubdown with a 70/30 alcohol/water solution, and then a good polish with either Simichrome or Cape Cod polishing cloths. Then Noalox all the threads.

I know zilch about metals so I thought it best to ask here first, since this is my first copper mod.

 

[State O' Flux]

I just got a copper EHPro from eciggity and IT IS GORGEOUS. I literally just took it outta the box. Everything seems to be in order, but I wanted to ask about initial cleaning and maintenance.

I usually disassemble everything and give all the parts a thorough rubdown with a 70/30 alcohol/water solution, and then a good polish with either Simichrome or Cape Cod polishing cloths. Then Noalox all the threads.

I know zilch about metals so I thought it best to ask here first, since this is my first copper mod.

Sounds like you have it well in hand... although I do have a few personal preferences you might find useful.

I prefer MG Silver grease on contacts and even threads (link for tech reference - buy from Amazon - it's cheaper) - it can be a bit expensive for some - so what ever your preferred anti-corrosion electrical grease - Noalox, Ox-Gard, NO OX ID A and so on.

Consider a "final finish" with a light coat of (specifically) Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax to all exterior surfaces (read up on this and you'll understand why it's preferred) - work it in with your fingers. Buff lightly to remove residue ("extra soft" toothbrush for grooves/crevices) with the usual soft cloth.

 

[zipflint]

I may do just that. I like the look of tarnished brass, but I don't know if I like the same effect on copper. I guess I could just wait a couple weeks after the initial cleaning and see what the tarnish starts to look like as it sets in. If I prefer the gleaming finish it has now, I know exactly what to do, thanks to you, sir! Muchas gracias!

Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax[/URL] to all exterior surfaces (read up on this and you'll understand why it's preferred) - work it in with your fingers. Buff lightly to remove residue ("extra soft" toothbrush for grooves/crevices) with the usual soft cloth.

 

[State O' Flux]

If you find you like - a certain point in the development of - the copper patina... you can wait, and apply Renaissance Wax at the desired appearance, and it will serve to maintain that level of patina - rather than continue to tarnish.
Copper, left to it's own devices, will - at the points you seldom touch it - develop a greenish patina known as "verdigris".

If you want to speed up the patina... a salt & vinegar solution can make for some neat finishes.

 

[zipflint]

That's excellent information!!! I'm discovering that I REALLY enjoy this kind of thing. Metallurgy, I guess. I had aspirations of doing metal work and bladesmithing before I got sick (loooong list of medical issues, chronic kidney stone production is just my current demon) so things like this, that I can do at home with very few tools and no workshop, is fascinating to me.

I've got a Sigelei 19E (brass tubes with stainless steel top cap and end button) that I can't even use right now because there's a short somewhere that causes arcs and small shocks, but I still have it sitting right here on my desk. Only cleaning it ever got (besides the contacts) was an occasional brief wipe with warm water. It's beautiful though. My originally-gaudy/bought for bling-bling giggles solid brass Private V3 clone is slowly getting that nice brown shade as well.

I need to do more reading into doing something to my AGA-T2s to make them look more....aged. I've read a few things but have forgotten it all. Anyway, I'm way OT now so I'll end this here. Thanks again, HEAPS, for your help!

If you find you like - a certain point in the development of - the copper patina... you can wait, and apply Renaissance Wax at the desired appearance, and it will serve to maintain that level of patina - rather than continue to tarnish.
Copper, left to it's own devices, will - at the points you seldom touch it - develop a greenish patina known as "verdigris".

If you want to speed up the patina... a salt & vinegar solution can make for some neat finishes.

 

[State O' Flux]

That's excellent information!!! I'm discovering that I REALLY enjoy this kind of thing. Metallurgy, I guess. I had aspirations of doing metal work and bladesmithing before I got sick (loooong list of medical issues, chronic kidney stone production is just my current demon) so things like this, that I can do at home with very few tools and no workshop, is fascinating to me.

I've got a Sigelei 19E (brass tubes with stainless steel top cap and end button) that I can't even use right now because there's a short somewhere that causes arcs and small shocks, but I still have it sitting right here on my desk. Only cleaning it ever got (besides the contacts) was an occasional brief wipe with warm water. It's beautiful though. My originally-gaudy/bought for bling-bling giggles solid brass Private V3 clone is slowly getting that nice brown shade as well.

I need to do more reading into doing something to my AGA-T2s to make them look more....aged. I've read a few things but have forgotten it all. Anyway, I'm way OT now so I'll end this here. Thanks again, HEAPS, for your help!

Yep... there's lots you can do without much investment.

Regarding your 19E. The SS button assemblies never had very good continuity... part metallurgy and part sloppy fit, that requires being pretty heavy handed with the button to get good contact. Some have inserted wire into the button/spring and collet in an attempt to lower resistance. There's a thread on it somewhere with photos and stuff... personally, I look for more elegant solutions.

If you visit Fat Daddy Vapes - he's got all sorts of useful odds and ends, including a 19 magnet kit that improves continuity (with SS buttons) and makes for a smoother button throw. He also sells different Sigelei button and 510 cap assemblies.

I've found that with most of the 19s, the shorting and shocking occur between button and lock ring... which is where most of your continuity issues arise. If you lightly scotchbrite the button bottom and sides, and the lock ring IDs and inner face (also scotchbrite all the threaded surfaces... they oxidize too) - then the usual clean and assemble... your shocking issues should go way - at least for awhile. That MG silver grease can help improve continuity as well as eliminate corrosion.

That's all I got... don't shoot yer' eye out.