Ehpro caravela

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erawtik

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Well now that Iv used it for a bit there is little burnt spots on the lower pin and both batteries, but it fires perfect now. There was no way I could get any atty to sit flush with the long pin so I cut it. I'm using flat tops so thinking if I had button I would of been able to use the medium pin with no issues. I paid 70 and it came in sealed ehpro box only 18650 with no logo which I kinda wish it had. My only complaint so far is the gold ring on bottom has worn down to ugly silver, the top and button are still shiny gold.
 

zipflint

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I coulda sworn I posted a couple photos of my copper Cara-clone. Maybe that was another thread....
12399165953_364931b934_b.jpg


Here it is with a Bliss clone on top.....
12399026505_e7045e74dd_b.jpg
 

UncleChuck

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Ah... the example I was looking for. A "high buck mod" tested... with an excess of radial clearance. So even stuff they have the stones to charge a few hundred for, or more, has "less expensive mod" issues.

You can actually see the clearance (albeit a bit exaggerated at the end of the axle) in this photo. (and the logo isn't even centered - for the sake of buyers, hope this shot is of a prototype)

brasssn_zpsbc81bb1d.jpg


So, some of the high enders aren't as well made as the EhPros... again, from my perspective, the best mech mods China makes. After all, it's just tubes and caps, buttons and contacts. If you're going to charge $200+, it should have first rate hand fitting - IMO. ;-)

Great post as usual!

Now we have some numbers to throw around when people claim clones are of inferior quality.

You seem to have a good deal of experience with the EHPro Caravela, are there any differences you've noticed between the marked and non-marked ones? I have the older "DX whatever" marked ones without the actual Caravela marks, and the very small diameter button shaft stuck out as a non-ideal situation, and I heard the newer, marked ones had changed something with the switch.

What all did they change between the two, and how would you say it has effected the performance or feel? I ask because you mention preferring the older ones, and I wasn't sure if that was a performance-related preference or more out of respect to the real deal. Although the small shaft does make for some button wobble I've never had misfires, and actually it's been one of the smoothest and most consistent buttons I've had on any mech, real or clone. After shimming it to shorten the throw, I can tap anywhere on the button with the lightest touch and it fires up strongly.

Sounds nice too, very "clanky and clacky" instead of "clicky and tappy" if that makes any sense ;) Kinda like chamber-checking a 1911.

Just making sure EHPro didn't screw something up with their v2s. The EHpro is a very very nice piece, regardless of its clone status. The HCigar definitely feels much cheaper by comparison, caps and tubes don't fit as well, much lighter and thinner tubing. 510 was a bit crunchy at first as well. Still nice, but nothing compared to the look and feel of the EHPro.

BTW can anyone confirm the diameter of the real Caravela? I thought it was 23mm like the paps but I've seen pics of supposedly real caravelas with attys on top I know are 22mm, so I've been confused. Did they make a 22 and 23?

Thanks! (Sorry to veer slightly off-topic)
 
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State O' Flux

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Great post as usual!
Na'... I'm wingin' it, just like everyone else. You tend to be pretty lucid yourself, Chuck. :p

Now we have some numbers to throw around when people claim clones are of inferior quality.
Well - at least the (far too) limited EhPro sample I've had occasion to stare at.

You seem to have a good deal of experience with the EHPro Caravela, are there any differences you've noticed between the marked and non-marked ones? I have the older "DX whatever" marked ones without the actual Caravela marks, and the very small diameter button shaft stuck out as a non-ideal situation, and I heard the newer, marked ones had changed something with the switch.
The couple that I have here, and a few others nearby that I've had occasion to take apart, stare at and measure, are, with minor dimensional differences, all the same and all "sterile" with no markings at all... being special order co-op items.
I'd like to get my hands on a range of them, with and without markings, logos etc. so I could see first hand any variations. You mention "small diameter button shaft"... have you encountered other sizes? I have not.


What all did they change between the two, and how would you say it has effected the performance or feel? I ask because you mention preferring the older ones, and I wasn't sure if that was a performance-related preference or more out of respect to the real deal. Although the small shaft does make for some button wobble I've never had misfires, and actually it's been one of the smoothest and most consistent buttons I've had on any mech, real or clone. After shimming it to shorten the throw, I can tap anywhere on the button with the lightest touch and it fires up strongly.
I use the term "older ones" as a reference of time, not of model dimensional variations... at least none that I've measured to date. Although I have access to a genuine Caravela, I've not taken it apart for measurement - and I've been told by folks with more familiarity that Caravelas have seen a few small dimensional changes... so comparison would be difficult.
I'm with you on button feel and consistency... after break-in, they work exceptionally well (for the dollar investment) - or at least the ones I've tuned up do.


Sounds nice too, very "clanky and clacky" instead of "clicky and tappy" if that makes any sense ;) Kinda like chamber-checking a 1911.
My most broken in ones are, like my 1911s - silent... goes nicely with the sterile finish. ;-)

Just making sure EHPro didn't screw something up with their v2s. The EHpro is a very very nice piece, regardless of its clone status. The HCigar definitely feels much cheaper by comparison, caps and tubes don't fit as well, much lighter and thinner tubing. 510 was a bit crunchy at first as well. Still nice, but nothing compared to the look and feel of the EHPro.
Like you, I'm fond of EhPro products. I think they may have slipped here and there, now and again - probably from an increase in manufacture, due to the "press" of popularity and the recent decision to produce outright forgeries (I have some issues with this, but... even though I think they have a bit more integrity than other Chinese clone makers - I suppose they're in it to make a profit, after all) - but even some of the my, more questionable fit and finish, encounters with EhPro products have proven easier to correct than encounters with other brands.

A bit of sanding, deburring, lubricating, polishing and fine tuning has been the, relatively simple, level of correction with EhPro. I've had friends hand me "other brands" that, if I still had a lathe and mill - would have required their use to "re-manufacture" - and ultimately needed to be sent back.
IMO - Buyers shouldn't be required to have a machine shop on call, so they might "finish" a product, as though it were a DIY kit of some kind. They should work, right out of the package... even clones at 1/5th or less the price.

I think overall Chinese quality has improved dramatically, but they need to consider that a good number of Americans & Euros, although not wanting to spend $200+ for a mech, will spend up to $100 for a good one... and the Chinese need to think about filling that void with higher quality products (and I don't mean some of the more ridiculous US vendor mark-ups) - perhaps products that better reflect the wonderful, colorful art, history and personality, unique to China.

OK... I've rattled on long enough. Sorry... I get wordy. :oops:
 

UncleChuck

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Not too wordy at all!

I do like that EHPro's product seem to fill a gap between the very low end Chinese products and the high-end stuff, I felt kind of silly spending the money on the EHpro in the first place as it seemed pretty high for a clone, but after continuing on owning and using more clones and originals I'm still very happy with it. I definitely think it was worth the price too, even though it was higher than usual for clones.

I'm still curious what exactly was changed when they started putting the markings on there, anyone have both the older non-marked and the newer ones to compare?
 

State O' Flux

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I coulda sworn I posted a couple photos of my copper Cara-clone. Maybe that was another thread....
Sorry to have overlooked your posting zip... Chuck distracted my attentions. :p
It looks very nice in photos with good alignment of logo and SN - congratulations - other than what looks like a small gap on the top cap (which may just be the battery and pin arrangement), it appears to be, overall, typical EhPro quality.
good2.gif
 

zipflint

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Correct! I've since adjusted it for a "perfect" fit. This thing is so great, I'm thinking about giving my Sigelei 8W kit (18650 and 18350 tubes, and two sets of end caps) to my brother, for his first mech mod. Those are "good enough," with no real problems, but they just don't "feel" as solid as the EHpro. I'm quickly becoming a big fan of them myself. I've got their Cronus and black Nzonic clones as well, and they are just as great as my FT (manufacturer unknown) Nemesis and Chi-You clones.

Now I'm at the point where I'm willing to save up for more "legit" mods. I've got a super sweet iHybrid Pure, now I'm jonesing for a V3tronix Flip or a Rook.....

And to think, I was priced-out of my previous collecting obsession (1/6 scale action figures.....yeah I'm a giant child) due to price increases..... :laugh:

other than what looks like a small gap on the top cap (which may just be the battery and pin arrangement), it appears to be, overall, typical EhPro quality.
good2.gif
 

zipflint

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Mine came from eciggity, and they include three differently sized center pins. At least, that's what I think they are. I haven't messed with them yet. I've just been using different 18650 batteries (some shorter, some longer) to accommodate different attys. Not the most elegant solution, but I usually find one atty that looks/fits with a mod and that becomes its permanent residence.

what is everyone doing to accommodate different size atomizers considering they only give you one center pin/post?
 

UncleChuck

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what is everyone doing to accommodate different size atomizers considering they only give you one center pin/post?

Aside from different length center pins, if your mod fires fine but still has battery wobble you can raise the little white delrin insulator in the bottom cap to snug up the battery. Not sure if it was meant to be used in that way but it works great! Just raise it up pretty high, and then when you screw the cap in it will automatically press back down to the perfect height for the batt.

If there is so much extra space the mod won't fire, you can back off the negative contact and it will increase switch throw a bit. But then the button sticks out further on the outside, looking a bit goofy, but this can be fixed by shimming the switch, take some washers or whatever works and put them under the negative contact, and it will stop the button from extending so far but not interfere with the throw towards the battery.

Or get some different length pins, they just go into plastic so you could shove any pin in there you want really.
 
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KurrptSenate

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I should have been more specific Maynard ;)

the Hcigar comes with 1 center pin, not 5 like the real one. I was looking for possible purchases/fixes that would alleviate this issue. I'm not sure where I would go about getting those other pins, or one that allow to flush mount my other devices. the current pin allows me to flush mount my kayfun from hcigar, but that is it and the mrs. takes that with the provari
 

UncleChuck

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I should have been more specific Maynard ;)

the Hcigar comes with 1 center pin, not 5 like the real one. I was looking for possible purchases/fixes that would alleviate this issue. I'm not sure where I would go about getting those other pins, or one that allow to flush mount my other devices. the current pin allows me to flush mount my kayfun from hcigar, but that is it and the mrs. takes that with the provari

Oh my bad! The pin being too long is the issue then?

I was thinking it was too short and you were getting battery rattle or something, sorry about that!

(Off-topic Maynard talk, I finally get to see tool in concert this March, I'm so excited!)
 

State O' Flux

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what is everyone doing to accommodate different size atomizers considering they only give you one center pin/post?
One of my favorite "fixes" is, of course... magnets. (reminds me of the movie "The Graduate", where the guy says, regarding the young man's future - "just one word - 'plastics")
biggrin_mini2.gif


Anyway... magnets - useful for all sorts of battery spacer issues. Size 1.5mm x 8mm +/- disc magnets work well as generic spacers. Please use a rubber washer (or other non-conductive, shock resistant material) to function as a "centering spacer"... so in the event your mech suffers an impact, the magnet doesn't go sideways and dead short the battery. :blink:
 

UncleChuck

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I think that would help if the pin wasn't long enough, but the pin is too long to flush mount my aqua

I'm glad I wasn't the only one to be mixed up ;)

One of my favorite "fixes" is, of course... magnets. (reminds me of the movie "The Graduate", where the guy says, regarding the young man's future - "just one word - 'plastics")
biggrin_mini2.gif


Anyway... magnets - useful for all sorts of battery spacer issues. Size 1.5mm x 8mm +/- disc magnets work well as generic spacers. Please use a rubber washer (or other non-conductive, shock resistant material) to function as a "centering spacer"... so in the event your mech suffers an impact, the magnet doesn't go sideways and dead short the battery. :blink:

Or this scene from the amazing show Breaking Bad:

Beaking Bad - YEAH .....! MAGNETS! OH! - YouTube

MAGNETS! OH!
 
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