Eleaf iStick "pico"

[eiraku]

From what I have seen the pico is spec'd at 23mm which is what the alleria is supposed to be. If the 23mm aromamizer sits flush as does the billow v3 I wonder why the alleria wouldn't. @rice726 are you sure the alleria doesn't sit flush on the pico? Is it actually larger than the 23mm or something?

TBH, it's the *bottom* of the tanks that makes it or breaks it on the Pico, thanks to that battery cover. tank measurements are taken at the widest point, which may or may not be at the bottom.

My GMv2's protruding AFC levers see less then a hair of clearance with the battery cover, so I'd say 22.2-22.5mm is the widest the bottom of your tank can be to fit.

You can use one of them 510 heatsinks if you need to clear the batt cover, but be aware that it may (or may not) mess with TC mode.

On another note, in case anyone's wondering, the GMv2 - while being a cracking tank - is an absolute PITA to wick. The Internetz had prepared me somewhat for this, but there's nothing like actual practice to illustrate just how hard it is to get right.

Which is a shame as it's otherwise a great RTA for MTL, something the Melo 3 or the Serpent Mini is much less adapt at.

Note to UD, juice control for v3. Please?

Now I'm wondering just how good the Pico (tank) is. Might just grab one of those Pico-S things from FT one day, though having a Pico on top of a Pico will be a bit... well... weird.

 

[TrollDragon]

On another note, in case anyone's wondering, the GMv2 - while being a cracking tank - is an absolute PITA to wick. The Internetz had prepared me somewhat for this, but there's nothing like actual practice to illustrate just how hard it is to get right.

I find it no different than wicking any other Orchid style deck such as the Aqua II or Silverplay.
I use Rayon for wick but should be the same for cotton. Trim the wick even with the chimney threads, put a very thin bit down the juice channels and screw the chimney on. Saturate the wick, assemble and fill.

I found the Bunny Ear method not usable with the GMv2 using Rayon it might work with cotton.
I don't think it needs a juice control as it doesn't leak when I fill it.

Like everything that we do, YMMV.

 

[KenD]

So I finally got my Pico today. I thought I had prepared myself for how tiny it is, but boy was I still surprised. I have a terrible itch to get a second (third, fourth...) one, but I really don't have any tanks suitable for it. Even the Cubis I've paired with the Pico won't reach temp at 45w. Apparently I need two- or three-battery devices...

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[eiraku]

I find it no different than wicking any other Orchid style deck such as the Aqua II or Silverplay.
I use Rayon for wick but should be the same for cotton. Trim the wick even with the chimney threads, put a very thin bit down the juice channels and screw the chimney on. Saturate the wick, assemble and fill.

I found the Bunny Ear method not usable with the GMv2 using Rayon it might work with cotton.
I don't think it needs a juice control as it doesn't leak when I fill it.

Like everything that we do, YMMV.

I managed to wick it so that it won't leak (too much... it's still slightly gurgly) using a somewhat similar method (cut to chimney length, spread down, jab a tiny amount down the holes), but now I think I used a wee bit too much cotton in the coils themselves (they're jam packed in there) and I'm getting slightly more of that cotton-y taste compared to how it was before.

Maybe I'll try again one more time once I'm finished with this tank 'o juice.

Plus I'm thinking that MTLing the GM is exacerbating the problem due to me taking tighter draws. Which is a shame as when it does work right it produces a glorious cloud of flavour.

 

[ddirtyvapes]

@KenD are you saying your cubis isn't working well in TC mode? What kind of coil are you using? I'm finding the Pico's TC to work as well or better than my other 2-3 batt, higher power TC devices, so maybe there's some fiddling you can do??

 

[KenD]

@KenD are you saying your cubis isn't working well in TC mode? What kind of coil are you using? I'm finding the Pico's TC to work as well or better than my other 2-3 batt, higher power TC devices, so maybe there's some fiddling you can do??

Oh, it's working beautifully (both of mine are). It's just that the build I have in the rba section can handle a lot of power (a pleasant surprise). I guess I could do a lower power build, but I don't want to. My other atties not shelved are Aromamizers, Belluses (Belli?), Criuses (Criui?), a Griffin, a Serpent, a Doable, and a Smok tf-rta g2 and Billow v3 on the way. None of them are really ideal low watt atties.

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[ddirtyvapes]

That makes sense I was just wondering.

I'd go with "Belli" and "Criuses" myself!

Also, I know what you mean. Well, most people who have been vaping a while probably know what you mean. But it never ceases to surprise me what a difference there can be with the same exact build in two different toppers.

For whatever it's worth, I find the Mako Shorty RDA, Tugboat v2 (clone), and no surprise the Subtank RBA and higher-res stock coils to be particularly good at lower power. All of my other toppers also do better at slightly higher levels.

 

[TrollDragon]

Plus I'm thinking that MTLing the GM is exacerbating the problem due to me taking tighter draws.

I think that is your problem right there. The chamber is so small that a tight draw is primer pulling with each vape.

 

[pappcam]

So I finally got my Pico today. I thought I had prepared myself for how tiny it is, but boy was I still surprised. I have a terrible itch to get a second (third, fourth...) one, but I really don't have any tanks suitable for it. Even the Cubis I've paired with the Pico won't reach temp at 45w. Apparently I need two- or three-battery devices...

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

I run my Cubis at 450 degrees and 25w and it works completely fine. I'm using the 1.0ohm coils.

 

[KenD]

I run my Cubis at 450 degrees and 25w and it works completely fine. I'm using the 1.0ohm coils.

It works fine for me as well, it's just that the build I have in my rba deck (more airflow) can handle much more than 25w.

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[KenD]

That makes sense I was just wondering.

I'd go with "Belli" and "Criuses" myself!

Also, I know what you mean. Well, most people who have been vaping a while probably know what you mean. But it never ceases to surprise me what a difference there can be with the same exact build in two different toppers.

For whatever it's worth, I find the Mako Shorty RDA, Tugboat v2 (clone), and no surprise the Subtank RBA and higher-res stock coils to be particularly good at lower power. All of my other toppers also do better at slightly higher levels.

I might have to take my Kayfun, Aquas, Foggers, or Subtanks out of retirement. Don't know if I can live without top fill anymore though...

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[ddirtyvapes]

I might have to take my Kayfun, Aquas, Foggers, or Subtanks out of retirement. Don't know if I can live without top fill anymore though...

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I was honestly worried about that too, being so used to top fill I mean. However, since in practice I mostly use the Subtank for lower wattage and higher res builds, it's not that big of a deal. Especially since the Mini is... 4mL with the RDA? a little more? I can't remember, but it's around there and a tad more if you're using stock coils. I do use the 1.2s and 1.5s occasionally. Anyway yeah my point is that I'm also used to top fill and the bottom fill in the Subtank Mini was no big thing with the rate of juice I tend to go through at the lower power I tend to use it. It sounds like you are talking about using them for a similar purpose.

Granted, I also use RDAs quite a bit so comparatively, bottom fill is a breeze. I still don't think it's that big of a deal, personally. That is particularly true when discussing builds that are closer to, and surpass, the 1ohm mark. I never drilled out the juice channels in my Subtank RBA so it does better with builds of a reasonable resistance IMO.

 

[7sixtwo]

I might have to take my Kayfun, Aquas, Foggers, or Subtanks out of retirement. Don't know if I can live without top fill anymore though...

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Come now, don't be melodramatic. Is it really that tough to build for ~50W-60W? I think not. Just up your resistance to ~0.3-0.5 ohm.

 

[Heartsdelight]

Oh, it's working beautifully (both of mine are). It's just that the build I have in the rba section can handle a lot of power (a pleasant surprise). I guess I could do a lower power build, but I don't want to. My other atties not shelved are Aromamizers, Belluses (Belli?), Criuses (Criui?), a Griffin, a Serpent, a Doable, and a Smok tf-rta g2 and Billow v3 on the way. None of them are really ideal low watt atties.

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The Bellus for me is pretty good @29.5 - 30 ish watts. Guess it depends on how you like to build it.

 

[gerrymi]

The ratings stated by actual battery manufacturers - LG, Sony, Panasonic, Samsung - are usually correct. Those stated by rewrappers, not so much.

Well...as mentioned earlier...when tested by Mooch...some of the "actual battery manufacturers" specs are off (by 5-10 Amps)...

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/image-jpeg.550248/

Beyond capacity and top filling, how do you like the Cubis?

I'm a MTL vaper and have only used the 1.5Ω Clapton coils.

The first couple tankfulls I used it like a Nautilus...8-11 Watts and making sure the AFC was closed before screwing on the top.

It gurgled/flooded horribly!!!

From the 3rd tank on...I cranked it up to 11-15 Watts and made sure the AFC was OPEN before screwing on the top (and keep my index finger over the drip tip opening).

It's now "Tootle Puffer Heaven".

..

 

[KenD]

Well...as mentioned earlier...when tested by Mooch...some of the "actual battery manufacturers" specs are off (by 5-10 Amps)...

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/image-jpeg.550248/




I'm a MTL vaper and have only used the 1.5Ω Clapton coils.

The first couple tankfulls I used it like a Nautilus...8-11 Watts and making sure the AFC was closed before screwing on the top.

It gurgled/flooded horribly!!!

From the 3rd tank on...I cranked it up to 11-15 Watts and made sure the AFC was OPEN before screwing on the top (and keep my index finger over the drip tip opening).

It's now "Tootle Puffer Heaven".

..

In the picture you linked all the batteries by actual manufacturers (with the exception of Sony) are speced honestly or underspeced. Haven't seen what you mention in Mooch's tests. Could you please link to it?

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[KenD]

Come now, don't be melodramatic. Is it really that tough to build for ~50W-60W? I think not. Just up your resistance to ~0.3-0.5 ohm.

I missed the melodrama. Are you joking or actually referring to something? Mostly I build for 45-55w (between .3 and .5 ohms mostly actually), but that'll kill a single battery fast. I can build for lower wattages of course, but I like these builds.

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[eiraku]

I think that is your problem right there. The chamber is so small that a tight draw is primer pulling with each vape.

As much as I have suspected then. Thankfully my latest cotton experiment and a slightly more airy mouth draw seems to help somewhat.

Now if I could only figure out how to keep the GMv2 from leaking from the top when I tip it over, which was strangely not an issue before lol.

But yeah, like I said rewicking is gonna be a pain until I get a few more rounds under my belt and I find the sweet spot for cotton amount/placement.

Thanks for the advice though, did help point me in the right direction. Not gonna give up on the 'lil Gobby that easily, at least not until the next "big thing" in mini RTAs comes along.

 

[rice721]

From what I have seen the pico is spec'd at 23mm which is what the alleria is supposed to be. If the 23mm aromamizer sits flush as does the billow v3 I wonder why the alleria wouldn't. @rice726 are you sure the alleria doesn't sit flush on the pico? Is it actually larger than the 23mm or something?

I'm positive. I have the first version alleria. The bottom knurling is the problem I suspect. I didn't bother trying to screw the tank on entirely bc I felt resistance coming from the battery cap and didn't want to risk bendzing or breaking something.

 

[Heartsdelight]

As much as I have suspected then. Thankfully my latest cotton experiment and a slightly more airy mouth draw seems to help somewhat.

Now if I could only figure out how to keep the GMv2 from leaking from the top when I tip it over, which was strangely not an issue before lol.

But yeah, like I said rewicking is gonna be a pain until I get a few more rounds under my belt and I find the sweet spot for cotton amount/placement.

Thanks for the advice though, did help point me in the right direction. Not gonna give up on the 'lil Gobby that easily, at least not until the next "big thing" in mini RTAs comes along.

I think the next best thing in mini is here, Wotofo Serpent mini, just got one & I love it!