Eleaf iStick "pico"
- Thread starter USMCotaku
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Going by ml vaped is deceiving....since the higher wattage vapers are using the juice up much quicker...all things considered, I would say it's working normally
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping
These devices wouldn't be what I would concider "rapid charging"
The number one killer of lithium batteries is heat. Unless something is wrong with your device, taking a puff now and then while it's charging isn't going to increase the batteries heat in any measurable amount. The cycling issue you are talking about is more of a concern for ni-cad batteries. Short of putting the cell through some serious torture, you are going to average about 300 FULL charge cycles, and I haven't seen any evidence of using "pass through" lessening that for me.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping
Yes. Sorry, I thought I quoted your post with it but obviously I messed it up. Just wondering if the rebuildable head is pretty easy.
Source? Or do you mean "reasons to believe"?
Typical budget mod accuracy variations aside, things like...
Wismec and Eleaf/iSmoka are wholly owned subsidiaries of JoyeTech.
Since last fall all three have been in a, fantastic for us, features arms race. Leapfrogging and catching up... usually within a few short weeks.
From the beginning the design specs and display aesthetics, as well as the control mechanics, have been obviously shared among them. I was calling my early RX an "i200" from the start.
And for a brief time, until JTech altered the code, you could load the VTC .bin update file on a Wismec Presa and run it.
They share tech among the divisions.
EDIT...
I had to go back to see what you quoted of my post...
To be clear... I'm saying they all share components, design and tech... not that they're in anyway all identical. Hope that's better.
Last edited:
Its very simple to build on IMO. It took me about 10 minutes to get a build on there for the first time. Only thing to keep in mind is that, when you're using wire that is 26g or above, you should get the grub screw to catch the wire when you screw it in. The wire has a tendency to slip in the gap under the screw and then the coil isn't as stable.
I've got a 26g SS build on there that came out to 0.7 ohms and has been performing well.
It's an open RTA deck, not a head. Much like the layout of the K SubTank RBA "head".
Jokes aside...
The side rails have an open top channel for the coil legs vs. the regular hole.
I found that quite fiddly to get it locked down without distorting the coil, but I suspect practice will take care of that.
The Lil' Serpent rocks.
Having my LIl' Serpent on my Pico, just like Garfield, looking at his pic I thought about the included DT.
I didn't care for the stumpy little thing right from the start (and am I still the only one to mention the shallow DT well?) so that first day...
I swapped the Serpent DT to my ST Nano, put the Kanger DT on the fullsize Bachelor, moved that one to the black B Nano and its' DT to the Serpent.
Wait... there was a difference in the Bachelor DT's stem length so now I've got the Nano's back where it started and the one from the full size on the Serpent.
But I did try the original DT again... still don't care for it.
Gawd... I'd be even nuttier if I actually shopped for drip tips.
I didn't care for the stumpy little thing right from the start (and am I still the only one to mention the shallow DT well?) so that first day...
I swapped the Serpent DT to my ST Nano, put the Kanger DT on the fullsize Bachelor, moved that one to the black B Nano and its' DT to the Serpent.
Wait... there was a difference in the Bachelor DT's stem length so now I've got the Nano's back where it started and the one from the full size on the Serpent.
But I did try the original DT again... still don't care for it.
Gawd... I'd be even nuttier if I actually shopped for drip tips.
Not many of us that I've noticed, though OhTheAgony would be happy if it's easily do-able.
Wotofo Serpent Mini
.
I didn't like the DT on the Serpent Mini either. Its too short and stubby. When I use the stock DT, my lips touch the top of the tank and the DT also tends to get hot quickly. I have swapped it out with the DT from my Mutank.
I guess I'm nuttier than you are. I am looking for some wide bore drip tips. Can't get any here. Looking for someone in the US who will ship to me with a reasonable shipping charge.
I guess I'm nuttier than you are. I am looking for some wide bore drip tips. Can't get any here. Looking for someone in the US who will ship to me with a reasonable shipping charge.
Are you looking for mouth-feel vs. airflow?
Because you're limited by the design of the tank and the Lil' Serpent's chimney stack is fairly restricted. Actually, having a peek just now... it's very tight.
Because you're limited by the design of the tank and the Lil' Serpent's chimney stack is fairly restricted. Actually, having a peek just now... it's very tight.
The pictures should be self explanatory. It's something to be careful about. The Pico will still charge but that part is what held the usb cable in place. It will slide back in but comes out easily too. Without that part firmly in place the cable comes out with very little provocation. Anybody know of a way to fix this? I hesitate to take the device apart only to find there is no fix and then I can't get it back in good working order. The moral of the story might be to be sure any cable you use for charging slides in and out easily.
You might be able to use hot melt glue to hold it in place. You would need to take it apart.The pictures should be self explanatory. It's something to be careful about. The Pico will still charge but that part is what held the usb cable in place. It will slide back in but comes out easily too. Without that part firmly in place the cable comes out with very little provocation. Anybody know of a way to fix this? I hesitate to take the device apart only to find there is no fix and then I can't get it back in good working order. The moral of the story might be to be sure any cable you use for charging slides in and out easily.
iSticks have had weak USB ports since the 20w. I reinforced all of mine with 2 part epoxy because people were reporting failures.
how complicated was the teardown and rebuild? I have a hunch it's a pain.
I don't own a Pico so I've never done it. Someone here did, I think it was in this thread, but I don't remember who.
It didn't look terribly difficult.
It didn't look terribly difficult.
The tear down is really simple. Unscrew the top and bottom (take out battery first
) remove bottom plate, and unscrew the plate covering the buttons and battery lead (all of the screws are the same size, T5 star bit if I remember correctly....maybe T6 but no bigger). Once that is off, the bottom plate will be separate, work the boards and black plastic piece you unscrewed from the bottom plate out througv the top. The screen cover is attached to the board, but the button will be loose, don't loose that[emoji14]Assemble in reverse.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping
I noticed that the chimney on the Serpent Mini is quite narrow. The Stock DT even though it tapers down seems wider than the chimney. I like the width of the stock DT but not the height.
What I'm looking for are DTs that are as wide as the stock one (maybe a little bit wider as well) but a little taller. Also in either Acrylic or Delrin so they wouldn't heat up.
Ah, gotcha.
Though I've never used the tank, I love the Stainless DT from my iSub G.
Middling diameter, middling height, decent size ID... I move it from atty to atty.
You need more toppers so you have a varied selection... get to buyin'.
- Status
Similar threads
