Eleaf Istick

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KTMRider

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100 Watts is about 90 Watts More than I Need. And Yeah... Kinda Pricey.

But I thought I would just Throw it Out There.

This is one thing I don't get. I can see 20w but anything over that is crazy. I've personally never went over 12w on anything and usually at 8-9w with all my tanks. Is the higher wattage for sub-ohm'ers?
 

AG51

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Lets take a vote. Everyone that loves ur iStick raise your hand!! :laugh:
waving_hand_zpse084415c.gif
 

Blueraider11

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I got one on order from him but no notice. Also, what color did you order. He did not have a 'drop-down' menu so I sent a note in my payment. Hope he is legit! Con not wait! :) :vapor:
Wow I just ordered my 3 Rd ISTICK . There is a seller on e-bay from Minnesota that just listed 9 for sale. Christmas is around the corner so I got another. I had a tracking in less than 5 min after placing an order ..... Onlt 7 left so act fast if your on the fence............
 

four2109

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Yeah, I was the one wondering if it would be small enough.
Dug out my old Nicostick for comparison. Perfect!:)
AA box w/900mah 14500 vs istick w/2200mah 18650.
istWnicostk.jpg
I'm going to Hawaii next week and this will be perfect.
I think it's all I'm taking with me.
I stretched the pocket out a little with the nicostick.
Gotta add a belt clip to the back of it.
pouch.jpg
I was going to trim it and just use the center.
But the side pockets will hold an ego head and 6ml bottle.
iSTKholster.jpg
I have and eyeglass case and a leather pouch I'm going to make a smaller single holster and sleeve out of.
 

zoiDman

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This is one thing I don't get. I can see 20w but anything over that is crazy. I've personally never went over 12w on anything and usually at 8-9w with all my tanks. Is the higher wattage for sub-ohm'ers?

Some people Just like High Watts.

I don't. And don't have Anything that Works very well at +20W. But I did get a Chance to take a 50W Hit of a Guy's Mech-Mod Dripper at ECC2014.

It was a Pretty Wild Hit. But Not Something I would want to do on a Day-In-Day-Out Basis.
 

scaredmice

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I had the chance to check the output of my iStick today with the scope at work. Unfortunately, I don't know how to work the thing (apparently) and the extra info on the right side was replaced by the picture saving menu.

It was tested with a 1.6 ohm coil. The first trace (low duty cycle) is with the iStick set to 3 volts, and the second is with it set to 5.5 volts.It definate boosts to about 5.8 volts and then PWMs the output.
What you can't see is that the RMS voltage determined by the scope is NOT the same as the voltage it was set to. RMS was high on the 3 volt setting and low on the 5.5 volt setting. PWM frequency was about 81Hz.

View attachment 379676View attachment 379677


If I understood you properly, RMS voltages didn't match the readings on iStick's screen.... so that confirms 'PWM-gate', and it's consistent with the 'too hot' complaint and also checks up with my voltmeters....assuming they give averages....

:?:

After 30 seconds of bewilderment, I took charge on the maths (I can live with them....) and I quickly discovered that for any given squared wave always positive you can see that:

Vave = Vmax * X / T , where T is the period of the wave and X the fraction of time in which the wave is not zeroed (the duty cicle in unit fraction),

Vrms = SQRT ( Vave * Vmax) (SQRT means squared root),

and finally, if Pw is the power calculated using Vave in the normal P = V2 / R, then the actual power would be:

P = Pw * Vmax / Vave

You can easily guess what the 'W' subindex means.....

So, if the thing fires at Vmax = 5,8 V with PWM, when we put 3,0 V on display (on VV or adjusting power to do so), the real power would be 193 % of the 'power' shown..... With a 1,5 ohm resistance, that means 6 W on display but 11,6 W applied to the atty.....:confused:
:facepalm:

No surprise that you, carto guys, did find this so quickly. I was worried searching for my taste..... but it turns out that, as I'm almost always beyond the 10 W (on display) , i. e., beyond the 3,9 V, my actual power was about 50 % or less above the one on screen....

The funny thing is that even at 5,5 V the math tells us of 5 % extra power, so the iStick would have been a 21 W power-class device....but it also seems that at 'full voltage ahead' it goes behind the 5,8 Vmax mark...so I'm starting to wonder if it really reaches the 20 W mark....

Nevermind, if you forget the damn numbers, you can surf along your taste to get (if you're lucky enough and you aren't using some very sensitive atty), the famous 'sweet spot'....

But the advertised power is not the actual one......What do you think of this, JoyetechUSA and company?


(They appear to be reading this thread, so ....)
 

DHCrocks

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OK. Now how about a pic of the oring in place on your iStick. :)

Pretty please.

here's a couple of pics...damn it's hard to get a macro pic on the little guy with my phone. Not much to see, the o-ring is almost complexly under the pin, can just barely see the black peeking out from the sides. The stock insulator is a tan colored. in the second pic you can see the stock insulator just barely beyond the black o-ring on the top right hand side. the o-ring seems to fit under the pin perfectly. I hope this works cause this tiny mod is the perfect size.



 
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dwg64

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From a business perspective, I think Eleaf has been smart with their introduction of this product. It's simple, does its job, and those of us that have one love it. If you don't think they have a marketing group that hasn't read what's being said here, you'd be mistaken. So if I were them, I'd do the following.

Spring loaded 510

Increase its wattage/voltage output to say 50 watts

Improve the electronics a bit

And for gods sakes put a serviceable 18650 in it

I have 2 iSticks as of yesterday and am really enjoying what they do. And even if they decided to leave them as is with no improvements, I'd still buy another.

My point here is, since it's been so well received in its infancy, there will be changes in this devices future. And frankly, if only one of the improvements I suggested were implemented, I'd gladly pay double what I did.
 

Joie

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Ok, so here are the impressions of a complete newbie!

To prove that I am a newbie I will certify that until the iStick I only had an EVOD starter kit. That means that Volts, Watts, Amps and all the electrical engineering discussion up to now were never a consideration until I purchased the iStick. Why did I buy it you ask? Well I bought it because I seemed to be charging my EVOD batteries all the time and I wanted to come home after a day at work and enjoy my vape without having to throw a battery on the charger. I also purchased it because I wanted to have better control of the temp and flavor. The EVODs are ok, but as you know they are what they are and you get what you get.

Not having any of the preconceived notions I have to say WOW! This is what vaping can be! Real vapor and flavor! I found flavors in my juice I didn't know existed and with the same tanks. I have a Protank Mini 3 and EVOD Glass with a 1.5 Ω coils and set at 6.0W it runs 3.0V my standard EVOD tanks have 2.0 Ω coils and I run them at 7.0W and 3.7V. Now before anyone tells me that the volts or watts are not what they seem I DO NOT CARE! PERIOD! For what I paid this thing just works and the flavor and vapor production is heads and shoulders above anything I have experienced to date.

I can understand where more advanced users might care and at some point in my vaping journey I may find a reason to care as I love tech and I can understand that electronics should technically work as advertised. That said, what I am more interested in at the end of the day is the overall experience. The iStick delivers a great experience and with some experimentation I have been able to determine the best settings for my Protank Mini 3, EVOD glass and my standard EVOD tanks. Now I am thinking of upgrading to a higher capacity tank with the BVC coils and take it to the next level. After that maybe a kfun and building my own coils!

Even though I love all things tech, I also love things that simply work and the iStick works for me!

just like I used to say as a teenager.....IF IT runs I'll drive it !!!!!!
 

melloyello

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spring loaded 510 and serviceable 18650 would do it for me since i dont usually go over 12 w.
im vaping @ 9w with a 1.4o kfun.
I did notice today again (3 times) that it didnt fire when i pressed the button and each time it happened, i didnt release my finger until i made sure it was hitting the fire button...and sure'nuff it was.
its not big deal but thats something they can improve (i think).


i wired my positive pin to a gankulator and the scope to negative battery post only to make sure my suspicion about the v@rm^s~ being too high on lower module frequency...and sure enough, the ggrt value was over-riding the maximum output of hexagon by almost 1/4%.




i think its supposed to do that.
 

aldenf

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Think of it More as What Happens when the Duty Cycle Approaches 100%.

Because Isn't 100% Duty Cycle Constant Voltage by Definition?

And that gets back to that Vpk = Vavg and C=1 thing.

Agreed. I think one big question to be answered is what the peak voltage is exactly. From what's been shown here it's somewhere between 5.5 & 5.8V. If it is 5.8, which there's no reason it has to be since 5.5V is perfectly sufficient, we never reach 100% duty cycle on the iStick. Take the VAMO for instance. With two 18350s in series, the peak voltage is somewhere around 7.2V. But the VAMO's maximum voltage output is 6V. So it never exceeds 84% duty cycle. But then again, it isn't boosting first either. It's harnessing native battery voltage.
 

salemgold

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