Eleaf Istick
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On my mini and Reg tanks I played with the rebuild-able deck, but man the heads are SO easy to redo, I just stay with them telling myself I am getting much more juice capacity even though actually its probably measured in dropsIdo convert them from OCC to SRC (sallies rayon coils)
That makes a marked difference in my useless opinion.
If your using the mini, there is no difference in capacity, since you can only fill to the tip of the chimney either way. If your using the full size, the difference is almost 1 1/2ml..... Quite noticeable.
The protection code is because of the chip getting too hot, don't know of a way to fix that other then use a higher build
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Vaping with my new 50w. Does the firing button need breaking in or will it stay hard to push forever? 20w always fired with a gentle touch so now every once in a while nothing happens when i take a drag
There's a few people complaining about this. I think it's more of a QA thing. Best solution is to open it up and very slightly bend the button (inner part soldered to the circuit board) toward the outside of the case. When I say slightly, I mean fractions of a millimeter until you find the sweet spot you like. I did it with my fingernail, it's that easy. Fixes button rattle if you have that too.
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Well I'm super bummed, broke my 50w already; dropped it from 4ft onto tile shattering my goblin tank and disabling the screen.
Has anyone heard about a way to fix the screen, maybe the solder came loose etc? It still fires and charges, just about useless without the screen though.
If anyone has any idea of how I can possibly fix this it would be greatly appreciated. I'm comfortable with tearing it open so let me know thanks.
Has anyone heard about a way to fix the screen, maybe the solder came loose etc? It still fires and charges, just about useless without the screen though.
If anyone has any idea of how I can possibly fix this it would be greatly appreciated. I'm comfortable with tearing it open so let me know thanks.
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Take it apart and check it out. It may be an easy fix like a solder repair. After all it is solid state and a drop may not have damaged it bad. You may be able to get parts too.
Since it's a bit slow today, I have to share my new tank; the Anyvape Peakomizer 2.0. I'm shocked that people are talking about this yet. It is basically a high-end Nautilus. So far, it's even better than the Silo for me.
Details:
anyvape peakomizer v2 | Shenzhen Anyvape Technology Limited
Anyvape Peakomizer 2.0 --A Top Filling AirFlow Glassomizer | Shenzhen Anyvape Technology Limited
(note the multiple versions, with different colors, sizes, and different coil support types)
Availability:
kanVape is where I got mine, and appears to be the only US vendor so far that I've found. They have the 18 and 22 mm sizes that take Naut BVC's. And I think they have the Sega sub tank as well.
Reviews:
Anyvape Peakomizer 2.0 - Review | ALL ABOUT E-CIGARETTES UK
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RadZRZg8cPA (a wacky but informative youtube review of the 18mm one)
I truly love it so far- best tank I've used. But like any other technology, that's like saying that my newest computer is the best I've ever had. Anyway, so far I love it. If you use BVC's this is a no-brainer. I have a smaller 18mm on the way. But I like my big boy right now.
Details:
anyvape peakomizer v2 | Shenzhen Anyvape Technology Limited
Anyvape Peakomizer 2.0 --A Top Filling AirFlow Glassomizer | Shenzhen Anyvape Technology Limited
(note the multiple versions, with different colors, sizes, and different coil support types)
Availability:
kanVape is where I got mine, and appears to be the only US vendor so far that I've found. They have the 18 and 22 mm sizes that take Naut BVC's. And I think they have the Sega sub tank as well.
Reviews:
Anyvape Peakomizer 2.0 - Review | ALL ABOUT E-CIGARETTES UK
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RadZRZg8cPA (a wacky but informative youtube review of the 18mm one)
I truly love it so far- best tank I've used. But like any other technology, that's like saying that my newest computer is the best I've ever had. Anyway, so far I love it. If you use BVC's this is a no-brainer. I have a smaller 18mm on the way. But I like my big boy right now.
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Good luck with the fix. Hope its an easy job, once you get inside and see what the problem is.
Dry....that atty looks pretty nice, just not sure about the airflow...might be a little too restrictive for me...
(after watching the guy suckin on it in the video)---
These kanger sub tanks spoiled me.
(after watching the guy suckin on it in the video)---
These kanger sub tanks spoiled me.
Dry....that atty looks pretty nice, just not sure about the airflow...might be a little too restrictive for me...
(after watching the guy suckin on it in the video)---
These kanger sub tanks spoiled me.
Drillbits are your little friend when slightly more air is needed.
Yeah, it's not quite as much airflow as the eleaf air (btw, you all were right about that tank, pretty amazing, especially for the price) but it's a notch above a Nautilus and about the same as the Silo when you open it to the giant hole.
The biggest features are the sealing system that is really hard to explain, but the written review linked goes into a bit- basically while you're sealing the tank, it only then dips the coil into the liquid; I guess to prevent leaking. Pretty cool design.
Also, the drip tip inverts into the tank, which the reviewer points out that he feels is unnecessary- but I love it. My semi too long 1 inch tips are now perfect. So I'm a happy camper. Also love the look and window design to see liquid.
One downside that I'll note- it's a bit heavy on the istick. It doesn't make it top-heavy, but just a bit more prone to fall if you bump it.
The biggest features are the sealing system that is really hard to explain, but the written review linked goes into a bit- basically while you're sealing the tank, it only then dips the coil into the liquid; I guess to prevent leaking. Pretty cool design.
Also, the drip tip inverts into the tank, which the reviewer points out that he feels is unnecessary- but I love it. My semi too long 1 inch tips are now perfect. So I'm a happy camper. Also love the look and window design to see liquid.
One downside that I'll note- it's a bit heavy on the istick. It doesn't make it top-heavy, but just a bit more prone to fall if you bump it.
Cobalt drill bits are your friends for stainless steel... I found out that regular HSS bits don't last at all on stainless.Drillbits are your little friend when slightly more air is needed.
stainless steel is a much harder metal than regular steel!
Cobalt bits are ideal when used to drill into stainless steel, titanium and even cast iron.
For drilling stainless Steal you can also use Titanium drill bits
Titanium drill bits also significantly reduce the friction between the drill bit and the material being drilled through.
Titanium bits are also ideal for cutting through metal. They will last up to six times longer than standard HSS drill bits. HSS is hi-speed steal and they cut at faster speed
Titanium drill bits have a higher hardness level typically than cobalt drill bits. However, the titanium is a coating on the drill bit, so you won’t be able to sharpen the drill bit and keep the titanium coating.
Cobalt bits are ideal when used to drill into stainless steel, titanium and even cast iron.
For drilling stainless Steal you can also use Titanium drill bits
Titanium drill bits also significantly reduce the friction between the drill bit and the material being drilled through.
Titanium bits are also ideal for cutting through metal. They will last up to six times longer than standard HSS drill bits. HSS is hi-speed steal and they cut at faster speed
Titanium drill bits have a higher hardness level typically than cobalt drill bits. However, the titanium is a coating on the drill bit, so you won’t be able to sharpen the drill bit and keep the titanium coating.
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(that's my new "hello" to you)
YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh no!!!!
(make up yer mind, girl. my emotions are roller coastering with you.)
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