I've about nic'd myself to death tonight trying this new toy out on every tank and clearo I have......everything is great on it. I'm a low wattage vaper....got it set at 4.5 with a 2.1 coil on my ADV am I really like it. I would like the button to be Spring loaded as others have mentioned, but so far no problems. Great vapor and flavor and the battery life is gonna be awesome next to my Provari and my Vv3's......very happy. Got another coming in a co-op at half the price I paid for this one.....wish I had ordered a couple more. Will see what version 2 offers. Great device for sure. Got mine in 3 days from Indy Vapor.....fast shipping and full kit with 10% discount.
Eleaf Istick
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I just ordered from vapenw on ebay and sent my son one
They've got the basic set with free shipThey the ones selling it for $30.99 or something like that?I just ordered from vapenw on ebay and sent my son one
Tiz true.
(Lampshaded 'Stick with NiteLiteVapor's Apricot Brandy on board.)
I've pressed the up and down buttons at the same time and I get no version readout
I've hit the two buttons together til my fingers are sore. And for so long now....... I can't even recall why I'm doing that! (Nope, no version read out on mine either.)
It's a Feature on the VRMS version that Only Reviewers get.
If I wasn't saving for a trip to NYC in 7 days, I might be tempted to get another couple. I don't have black or pink. An incomplete set! Its terrible.
I commented to hubby when someone posted about having 7 coming in (for family and friends, if I remember correctly).
His comment, "You aren't getting MORE, are you?"
I don't suppose I will have long to wait for Version 2. "No really, I HAD to get it. It isn't the same! Its the New Version!"
Maybe if I buy him that new computer first, he won't notice.
Oh, and I get no version displayed on either iStick, no matter how hard I try.
I commented to hubby when someone posted about having 7 coming in (for family and friends, if I remember correctly).
His comment, "You aren't getting MORE, are you?"
I don't suppose I will have long to wait for Version 2. "No really, I HAD to get it. It isn't the same! Its the New Version!"
Maybe if I buy him that new computer first, he won't notice.
Oh, and I get no version displayed on either iStick, no matter how hard I try.
Start low. I'm a few watts lower on the istick than my MVP or V5.
I think you're one of the few that had no problems with vapeoutlet.
I saw a pic next to a MVP2 but still couldn't believe how small it was. It's the perfect size for me and I don't have small hands. I had to butch it up a bit and put a carbon fiber skin on it
.Mine doesn't show the firmware version.
Yeah but you still can't believe it until you actually handle it.
Ravg. I'm using my Kangers with 1.5 coils at 6w.
VapeNW on eBay has them in stock for $35.99 or pre-order for $31.99 from uVape (same seller?).
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Trailz-where in NE Ohio did you purchase an ISTick, if I may ask? I'm in a Cleveland suburb and I've checked a couple local vape shops and they didn't have it yet. I have a blue ISTick, purchased online from UVape, but I am in the market for a second one.
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Since I've posted the scope traces, I've really been wondering what all the fuss is about regarding Vrms and Vavg and the power to the coil being wrong and all that crap.
My electronics background is with DC motor drives. In this context, we calculate power delivered/dissipated in Watts Avg when using PWM into a load. To do so: (Vpk^2/R) * (Ton/Ttotal). Vpk is used when working with on/off control of a fixed DC voltage (as is the case with the iStick). When the math is done this way, the numbers come out as expected.
My personal experience confirms the above, as the iStick provides a similar vape at similar settings as my VV3 does.
I don't have the slightest concern that it isn't as advertised. As best I can tell, I received exactly what I paid for, and maybe a little more.
My electronics background is with DC motor drives. In this context, we calculate power delivered/dissipated in Watts Avg when using PWM into a load. To do so: (Vpk^2/R) * (Ton/Ttotal). Vpk is used when working with on/off control of a fixed DC voltage (as is the case with the iStick). When the math is done this way, the numbers come out as expected.
My personal experience confirms the above, as the iStick provides a similar vape at similar settings as my VV3 does.
I don't have the slightest concern that it isn't as advertised. As best I can tell, I received exactly what I paid for, and maybe a little more.
The short answer is that the voltage/wattage numbers for power displayed by the iStick are pretty much useless as far as determining how hot the vape will be compared to other devices. Adjust the iStick's power level to taste rather than using other device's power levels as a reference.
I think some people are really gettin hung up on the RMS issue and writing dissertations like their applying for their doctorate degree. It's a $35 mod for cryin out loud! OK - low voltage vapers are gettin Hot Hits and they don't like that. I get it. However, I still think that the majority of average vapers would love this! I know I do!
Well, it may be terribly old fashioned of me, but I do expect any product to perform at the levels the manufacturer says they will. I really, really want one of these but I run my MVPs and VV v3s at 6 W most of the time, so it sounds like this will not work for me even though eLeaf says that it should.
This thing surely hits hotter than the volts say. On mine 3 volts with same ohms is like 4 on other devices. I cant say that I care though, 4 is my sweet spot.
It's bad when you are thinking of collecting the set of all colors. That is why I like how inexpensive these are compared to most vw/vv mods and yes I adjust to taste because I use them for around town and work use. Wife gets pink or fusheta. Have to get to the box first.
What baffles me is folks say they can't hear it. THEN there are folks that say they can here the 33Hz in their cartos but can't hear an 800Hz hiss. These are well known audible frequencies. Play 800Hz through their car audio at 100 Watts or so and see how fast the old fogeys bail out of the car screaming they've been deafened.That has got me off-balance!
Hertzs!
Forget the pets disgression! A normal human (if there are those left....
Obviously, I'm talking about non-filtered outputs, even if some part if the internal circuitry is actually oscillating at that low frequency and could, potentially, be heard....
Anyway, I'm really confused.... typical DC-DC regulators for other fields do oscillate in the kHz and MHz range, it's their way of improving yields of conversion. I guess that a different need arises here, and I'm mistakingly swapping the DC-DC oscillator converter (kHz to MHz) with the PWM pulse, before it's filtered, if applies, which seems to be, according to you, in the 33 to 800 Hz (VAMO through Provape's settings).
If that's the case, I'm marvelled because in case of bad filtering or any unavoidable resonance ....well, we'll hear it (the 'rattle-snake'?).
P.D.: I've just watched an Innokin i134 review from Phil Busardo and his oscilloscope output does not leave any clues unsolved.....48 Hz, period of 20,83 ms (i.e. they are oscillations per second, not thousands, not millions). My bad!
That's sick KTMRider. Is that a Jwrap? If so, how tough are those things to put on? I feel like I'd mess it up somehow.
And thanks for the update guys. My #2 in Blue has been ordered from VapeNW.
And thanks for the update guys. My #2 in Blue has been ordered from VapeNW.
That's what I do with ALL my APV's.
I call it the Black Electrical Tape Technique. Or BETT* for short.
* BETT is a Registered Trademark of zoiDic Industries and can Only be Used with Expressed Written Permission of zoiDic Inds. or it's parent comanpy zoiDic Hyperdyne International. All Rights Reserved.
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