Eleaf Istick

[KTMRider]

My istick from ecig dot com gives an error "Atomizer short" message after only one day of use. Noticed that my R91 turned down further on the silver (purchased from ecig) vs my black one (purchased from VapeNW). My original one from VapeNW fires and reads, my other box mods read and fire the R91 as well.

I figure it to be the 510 connection. I contacted the seller and asked about warranty replacement. Hope they make this right, if not I've got one that KTM can expect a PM

I just got your PM.

If it's only a day old, the vendor should take care of you.

Does any other atomizer work on it? Can you post a pic of the 510 connector? There's really not much I can do to fix it unless the wire came off the board like Emmsma's. Have you tried wiggling up the center pin? You only need to lift it less than a mm.

Let me know what the vendor says and depending on the pics, I'll do what I can to help you.

 

[geekmedic]

I just got your PM.

If it's only a day old, the vendor should take care of you.

Does any other atomizer work on it? Can you post a pic of the 510 connector? There's really not much I can do to fix it unless the wire came off the board like Emmsma's. Have you tried wiggling up the center pin? You only need to lift it less than a mm.

Let me know what the vendor says and depending on the pics, I'll do what I can to help you.

Gentle wiggle, had the R91 fire then message again. None of my other atty's fire on it. I don't want to mess with it to much, in case i can get a replacement.

 

[Iowa Gal]

geekmedic I would wait to see about an exchange since it's so new. Well I got one of the Erlkonigin clones for my Istick and couldn't get it to fire (it wouldn't fire on my ohm meter box either so obviously has a short 510 connection) It worked on my Hana Mini. Today, with bravery and patience I took one of my Isticks, lifted the center pin, removed original oring and replaced with a thicker one. ERLK fires great now...so they will just remain a matched pair.

 

[Woofer]

So I thread the wire in the 510 connector. I saw pics of the gunk (silicone glue?) below the connector but was surprised to see that the silicone is actually the gasket isolating the 510 center pin from the sides!. Now I know why these are so inexpensive. You can also see that the wire wasn't even soldered on the circuit board as there's no solder on the board where it should be.

Wow, not even soldered good grief (this is the greatest box mod ever)

 

[geekmedic]

geekmedic I would wait to see about an exchange since it's so new. Well I got one of the Erlkonigin clones for my Istick and couldn't get it to fire (it wouldn't fire on my ohm meter box either so obviously has a short 510 connection) It worked on my Hana Mini. Today, with bravery and patience I took one of my Isticks, lifted the center pin, removed original oring and replaced with a thicker one. ERLK fires great now...so they will just remain a matched pair.

I may try the o-ring fix, if no warranty replacement. If not I would like to try to seriously mod this awesome little box mod to make it what I am looking for in form factor, (better 510 [adjustable], RMS modulation [DNA or yihi board], replaceable 18650).

This new one may be a starter for Frankensteining, to my ideal to me setup.

 

[KTMRider]

Gentle wiggle, had the R91 fire then message again. None of my other atty's fire on it. I don't want to mess with it to much, in case i can get a replacement.

Try wiggling it up a bit more if it fired, then the center 510 pin is just sitting low. I'd definitely try to get a replacement or refund.

geekmedic I would wait to see about an exchange since it's so new. Well I got one of the Erlkonigin clones for my Istick and couldn't get it to fire (it wouldn't fire on my ohm meter box either so obviously has a short 510 connection) It worked on my Hana Mini. Today, with bravery and patience I took one of my Isticks, lifted the center pin, removed original oring and replaced with a thicker one. ERLK fires great now...so they will just remain a matched pair.

Most Erlk clones have short 510's just like the authentic. PBusardo also had this issue with his authentic in his review.

Wow, not even soldered good grief (this is the greatest box mod ever)

There might have been a bit but so little that it wouldn't hold. I had to tin the board to get the wire soldered on. It actually made it easier for me as I didn't have to clean solder off the board .

I may try the o-ring fix, if no warranty replacement. If not I would like to try to seriously mod this awesome little box mod to make it what I am looking for in form factor, (better 510 [adjustable], RMS modulation [DNA or yihi board], replaceable 18650).

This new one may be a starter for Frankensteining, to my ideal to me setup.

See if you can find a really thin o-ring. The #60 o-ring is really too big and your atomizers will sit a 2-3mm off the top.

After looking at the internals first hand, it'll be really hard to upgrade anything on the Istick. These really are disposable devices.

 

[emmsma]

geekmedic I would wait to see about an exchange since it's so new. Well I got one of the Erlkonigin clones for my Istick and couldn't get it to fire (it wouldn't fire on my ohm meter box either so obviously has a short 510 connection) It worked on my Hana Mini. Today, with bravery and patience I took one of my Isticks, lifted the center pin, removed original oring and replaced with a thicker one. ERLK fires great now...so they will just remain a matched pair.

And it worked solidly with no issues up until 2 days before I tried to fix it the first time. Its magic.

 

[op22222]

For those that don't know, Emmsma's Istick broke when she tried to install an o-ring on the 510 connector. She asked if someone could help so I offered to try to fix it as it didn't look too hard to do. I got Emmsma's Istick this afternoon and got started.


So I thread the wire in the 510 connector. I saw pics of the gunk (silicone glue?) below the connector but was surprised to see that the silicone is actually the gasket isolating the 510 center pin from the sides!. Now I know why these are so inexpensive. You can also see that the wire wasn't even soldered on the circuit board as there's no solder on the board where it should be.

That explains all the problems folks have been having with the positive pin. You would think they would have at least used a nylon or silicone grommet to insulate the pin instead of just squirting some crap in there. That's gotta be the reason for the all the shorts........Thank you very much for the great pics and info.

 

[KTMRider]

That explains all the problems folks have been having with the positive pin. You would think they would have at least used a nylon or silicone grommet to insulate the pin instead of just squirting some crap in there. That's gotta be the reason for the all the shorts........Thank you very much for the great pics and info.

To be fair, of the thousands of Isticks out there, the problem comes up in a very small percentage. Even if it lasts me only a few months, it's well worth the price, IMO.

 

[four2109]

I may try the o-ring fix, if no warranty replacement. If not I would like to try to seriously mod this awesome little box mod to make it what I am looking for in form factor, (better 510 [adjustable], RMS modulation [DNA or yihi board], replaceable 18650).

This new one may be a starter for Frankensteining, to my ideal to me setup.

I think ecig will back it up. Think about it, they put 100K into that sale, they are also a B&M, and they have been around long enough to have that URL.....

 

[four2109]

To be fair, of the thousands of Isticks out there, the problem comes up in a very small percentage. Even if it lasts me only a few months, it's well worth the price, IMO.

When you described the silicone around the connector, it became clear that I got lucky, twice! Those insulators have always been the weak link.

 

[Cotay]

I thought I would give it 1 more try, and ran the watts to max then down to min without drawing a puff then did the same in volt mode . I then decided to try the Istick again at 3 volts and got nothing when pushing the fire button. On the 2nd try it fired fine no burnt taste so I
raised it to 9 watts in slow increments and all is good again. Their must be a flaw in some of these. Like I said earlier, the first week it worked fine. VERRY PUZZLED!

I'm now having issues with burnt juice at the lowest settings. Nothing tastes good and I am really ticked since my first Drip Club box came today. I've cleaned coils, washed tanks, and even replaced my coils. Nothing seems to work. I tried the trick you mentioned and it didn't work for me. I've very disappointed now.

 

[four2109]

Who would have thunk it?? Vapers are complaining about too much power from an ecig battery!!! Gotta love it!

 

[Katya]

Does any other atomizer work on it? Can you post a pic of the 510 connector? There's really not much I can do to fix it unless the wire came off the board like Emmsma's. Have you tried wiggling up the center pin? You only need to lift it less than a mm.

http://www.madvapes.com/circuit-board-spacer.html (for some reason, links to MV don't work anymore on ECF).

Has anyone here tried to use MadVapes' circuit board spacers to fix iStick's connectivity problems?

This is a circuit board that is approximately 6.2mm in diameter by .25 mm thick. It fits nicely into a 510 connector and may be able to be used by some of you to alter your mods and connectors to adjust airflow or fix connectivity issues with deeply set center posts. Fits 510, 808, 901 and other similarly sized batteries or atomizers. Price is per board and there is no warranty on this item.

I've used them successfully on my MVP2 with a few atties that wouldn't make contact.

 

[op22222]

To be fair, of the thousands of Isticks out there, the problem comes up in a very small percentage. Even if it lasts me only a few months, it's well worth the price, IMO.

Yeah, you're probably right...I'm just glad mine is working good right now and hope it holds up for a while. I have two isticks with naughty minis on both of them since I bought them back in September. I don't unscrew them from the istick when I refill them, I just turn everything upside down and hold the base with my thumb while unscrewing the tank, it's easier that way and I'm not messing around with the 510 connection.They're pretty much all I use anymore.

 

[Iowa Gal]

I should clarify I've been using the Istick for about 6 weeks now and have had no issues with the Nautilis or Aerotank..I just wanted to raise the center pin on one of them to use the Erlkonigin clone. I did try an Evod glass tank with a 1.8 coil and thought it taste burnt...need to rebuild a coil 2.0-2 2 and try again. I assume the issue is there is no air flow control with the Evod.

 

[four2109]

There is really no standard for these connectors. If you consider the number of vendors producing them, there has to be some variation. At least we aren't screwing around with adapters for 801, 901, 401, ..............

 

[SS stingray]

I think the current crop of tanks is fixing to change. With the release of the DNA 40, We are going to see a redesign of tanks to utilize the Nickel so the temp control can be utilized. I see that Aspire is doing a re-design with the Atlantic Tank and Kanger has already released information on there combo that can be rebuild or use a new coil design.
View attachment 387992

So it is going to get interesting real quick. I wonder what the setup of choice will be in late Jan

I want to read about the new kanger tank. Where did you find the info ?
Thanks

 

[SS stingray]

I think there is a real business opportunity for someone to repair and improve bad Isticks.

 

[Katya]

I want to read about the new kanger tank. Where did you find the info ?
Thanks

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...b-tank-maybe-posted-already.html#post14543587