Eleaf Istick

[Katya]

Well... I spent most of my afternoon at my desk today. A rare occurrence. Vaped a bit too much today and forgot to charge the 'Stick last night. Turned it off. Plugged it in and laid it on my desk. An hour later, I knocked it off the desk onto the carpeted floor. Picked it up and unplugged it. It won't turn on. USB connector is loose in the base. I'll try to find some time over the weekend to open it up. Not expecting much at this point.

Moral of the story? Be very careful with your istick when it is plugged in.

Good thing I keep my VAMO box mod in my bag...

My deepest condolences...

 

[ccwaters]

Well. Got the non-functioning istick apart. It looks like all the other 'Sticks we've seen...

View attachment 391247


The 510 connection was soldered much better than LadyPharoh's but has the goopy silicone caulk...

View attachment 391248


The micro USB port was not treated so well. The two mounting tabs are obvious on either side of the photo. The tab on the left has a tiny bit of solder. The tab on the right has none. The electrical connections look to have been soldered reasonably well but were the only points seemingly holding the port in place. The PCB has no evidence of solder at the mounting locations...

View attachment 391249


To reattach the port I would have to take the two layers of PCB apart just to get a soldering iron in.

View attachment 391250


If I got that far without destroying the circuitry, I'd never get the port's electrical connections reattached. They're friggin' tiny! I have much larger hands than the assembly line workers in China and have no automated soldering facility. (28g coil for reference.)...

View attachment 391252


My iStick still won't turn on. Battery is at 4.08v. I'm thinking the dislodged USB port shorted some pins on the PCB that would have preferred to be left alone. I'm almost positive the chipset is toast.


What have I learned from dissecting my iStick besides confirmation that Eleaf's workmanship and quality control are terrible or non-existent?

There is definitely room for a full-sized 18650.

With some light machine work, a spring-loaded 510 pin should fit, especially with different electronics. It won't be any uglier than the adapters we're currently using.

There is definitely room for an Evolv-type PCB.

The biggest challenge, as KTMRider has mentioned, is fitting buttons to run a DNA chipset. Drilling out the three current button holes in the enclosure and installing tactile switches à la the Hana Modz could be a solution. Perhaps drilling new holes to clear the DNA's screen is necessary. I wish I could get my hands on a YiHi sx130 chipset from the IPV Mini. The sx130 is half the cost or less of a DNA 40. It looks like YiHi is only selling them to Pioneer4You, however.

After seeing the insides of an iStick, I highly recommend the vapors' cliché: make sure you have backups for your backups. Do NOT rely on one iStick as your only reasonable vape. If you're buying one, get three. They're cheap. If you're buying three or more iSticks, forget them and go for an iPV Mini (assuming they're decent) or VaporShark. I predict at least 30% of iSticks will not see six months in working order.

My iStick, however, WILL live again....

Check the traces on the circuit board, I've repaired two so far that have had the same trace melted on the circuit board (think fuse) same trace on both. A third one beyond repair, not sure on the cause but it seems to be another weak point in the Isticks growing list of faults. It is relatively easy to fix, once the trace is burnt it loses all power, it may, or may not be obvious, two were clearly visible about an inch of the trace was lifted, and burned, the other it was only visible under magnification. Clearly Eleaf cheaped out and used the lightest possible copper on the circuit boards, any extra load, and the trace acts like a fuse.

The one in the picture had other issues so it will end up an Istick DNA40, however the burnt trace was the same trace in all three. Reportedly two were working fine, then they weren't, cause unknown, but obviously more current then the little trace could carry.

Glad I have a solid background in electronics, this Istick is certainly a cute, but full of issues device. These would have ended up in the trash otherwise.

 

[TheRac25]

A few random thoughts and updates:
-I'm still getting random burnt hits with my istick nauty mini combos. I've kept the wattage lower, and it seems to help a bit. Keeping it around 8-9W, instead of 10ish where I started and it worked fine at forever. Maybe it's getting warmer over time? Hmm.

assuming 6V PWM @ 50% duty cycle (the 3 volt setting on the istick) I have calculated the minimum output watts for various ohm loads

2.0 9
1.8 10
1.6 11.25
1.4 12.85
1.3 13.8
1.2 15
1.1 16.36
1.0 18

 

[scaredmice]

Did you apply SWR grease to the antennae so you could shoot skip at night?

I'm not a native English speaker and that ' shoot skip at night ' I'm not sure if it is a phrasal verb, an idiom or a literal expression. Anyway (taking it literally...) I never put anything special on antennas, just fiddled a lot with them to stay low on SWR...... funny the things sometimes we did to that.....

There were even weirder things. Building dipoles out of straight annealed insulated cables.... for hanging out clothes to dry.... And some even wilder, like the "rabbit chase" with cars in isolated industrial areas (in Spanish ham slang "la caza del zorro" - fox hunting - ), searching the hidden station (mounted on a parked, well concealed car ) while all the others (sometimes 30 or more) were chasing them on a five to ten mile wide squared area (so we were putting industrial and residential areas in the bag, almost shouting out loud the traffic authorities to catch down us!)...making crazy 360-turns now and then to catch the best direction to follow.....

Now I watch those illegal racing films and I think...... noobs!

... as incredible as it might sound, I was a crazy young....I cannot believe it now.....

 

[TheRac25]

Well that's just....Mean.

i take this back, whats on the screen has nothing to do with reality

 

[aldenf]

Check the traces on the circuit board, I've repaired two so far that have had the same trace melted on the circuit board (think fuse) same trace on both. A third one beyond repair, not sure on the cause but it seems to be another weak point in the Isticks growing list of faults. It is relatively easy to fix, once the trace is burnt it loses all power, it may, or may not be obvious, two were clearly visible about an inch of the trace was lifted, and burned, the other it was only visible under magnification. Clearly Eleaf cheaped out and used the lightest possible copper on the circuit boards, any extra load, and the trace acts like a fuse.

The one in the picture had other issues so it will end up an Istick DNA40, however the burnt trace was the same trace in all three. Reportedly two were working fine, then they weren't, cause unknown, but obviously more current then the little trace could carry.

Glad I have a solid background in electronics, this Istick is certainly a cute, but full of issues device. These would have ended up in the trash otherwise.

Thanks, ccwaters!

The PCB looks fine. No traces are obviously damaged, even under 6x magnification.

I too will go the route of the DNA 40 unless I can talk YiHi into sending/selling me a sample of their sx130 board. It will perhaps be known as the One Hundred and Twenty Dollar iStick when finished. "Gentlemen, we can rebuild it. We have the technology. We have the capability to make it better than it was before; better, stronger, faster." *Insert theme from Six Million Dollar Man here.*

Have you done any research yet for transplanting a DNA 40 chipset?

I do miss my little iStick. The VTR and VAMOS just don't feel the same in my hand...

 

[KTMRider]

A few random thoughts and updates:

-I'm still getting random burnt hits with my istick nauty mini combos. I've kept the wattage lower, and it seems to help a bit. Keeping it around 8-9W, instead of 10ish where I started and it worked fine at forever. Maybe it's getting warmer over time? Hmm.

-I got the Silo tank, the big boy. It's a great tank using the aspire naut bvc's, since I've had troubles with my original Nautilus. It's got the size for an all day vape, and the air draw is really something. I still prefer the taste on my mini ever so slightly- but size wins for the convenience so far.

-Loving my Jwrap. The carbon fiber not only gives it grip, but also keeps it warm. Ex: my other istick with no grip is ice cold when I pick it up. Now that winter is coming, I'd suggest it even more so.

-KTMRider - we're neighbors, very cool. I'm in Los Feliz, but you can find me at the Glendale Target....far too often.

I vape around 6-8w with my KF's and it's pretty damn good.

I lived in Glendale about 14 yrs ago . I moved back to NJ to help take care of my dad and be closer to my family.

Say whaaattt???? KTM is our neighbor????

Nope

Thanks, ccwaters!

The PCB looks fine. No traces are obviously damaged, even under 6x magnification.

I too will go the route of the DNA 40 unless I can talk YiHi into sending/selling me a sample of their sx130 board. It will perhaps be known as the One Hundred and Twenty Dollar iStick when finished. "Gentlemen, we can rebuild it. We have the technology. We have the capability to make it better than it was before; better, stronger, faster." *Insert theme from Six Million Dollar Man here.*

Have you done any research yet for transplanting a DNA 40 chipset yet?

I do miss my little iStick. The VTR and VAMOS just don't feel the same in my hand...

One guy did a DNA 40 upgrade and said it was such a PITA that he isn't going to do a write up on it. I thought about upgrading it too but the case isn't easy to work in.

 

[gerrymi]

Thanks, guys... Blogged.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/aldenf/6929-eleaf-istick-v1-problems-solutions.html

GREAT!!!

In the MVP2 thread about every 2-3 days there would be a post by a new MVP2 owner about it reading "NON" and not firing. Finally...Capt.shay put the "fixes" on his Blog. Now...it's just "see Capt.shay's Blog".

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/capt-shay/6338-fixing-mvp-vv3-contact-issues-guide.html

Just how old are you?

69 years old

And...I smoked (and loved) analogs for 51 of those years

(I actually quit smoking by accident. I only got my Starter Kit to use in NON-Smoking areas (restaurants, etc.). After I got it, filled it and took a couple puffs...I put it next to my pack of cigarettes.

Since then...[over a year now]...every time I've wanted to inhale some "smoke", exhale some "smoke" and get a hit of nicotine...I've reached for my e-cig. It's just so much more enjoyable!!!)

Hey hey hey.....that's not right. A Prothingy doesn't cost $250.

Satin Silver ProVari 3 (P3) *New*
Price:$249.95

The All New ProVari 3 - The Personal Vaporizer Perfected

 

[Mrez]

Just a quick question, I'm considering picking up one of these for my father in law who's a two pack day coffin nail user. He tried disposables in the past and hated them, and I picked him up some V2's cigalikes two years ago and was meh about them. Are these things pretty noob friendly? He's not much of a tinkerer, so it's gotta be something that works, and works well out of the box. I can already foresee changing atty heads and refilling might be a bit much to him, but I'm willing to shell out the cash in the hopes that it helps him transition off. I've had ego's and vamo's in the past, had a Cloupor 30W for a bit before the 510 connection got screwed up, and I am now a dedicated mech user, so I am at least somewhat familiar with the lower wattage boxes to help him out with it. But I definitely need something reliable for him. I was considering the starter kit from Sun vapors for him and an extra tank. Will any standard usb wall jack work, or should I look for a specific output voltage, and same with the cable?

 

[PaulBHC]

You can get the SX350 board here

DIY PARTS / KITS - A to Z Vapor World™

But it's more than an iStick

 

[Cotay]

I too will go the route of the DNA 40 unless I can talk YiHi into sending/selling me a sample of their sx130 board.

I wonder if Yihi would be amendable to a co-op buy on the SX130...I'd certainly get in on that.

 

[op22222]

Just a quick question, I'm considering picking up one of these for my father in law who's a two pack day coffin nail user. He tried disposables in the past and hated them, and I picked him up some V2's cigalikes two years ago and was meh about them. Are these things pretty noob friendly? He's not much of a tinkerer, so it's gotta be something that works, and works well out of the box. I can already foresee changing atty heads and refilling might be a bit much to him, but I'm willing to shell out the cash in the hopes that it helps him transition off. I've had ego's and vamo's in the past, had a Cloupor 30W for a bit before the 510 connection got screwed up, and I am now a dedicated mech user, so I am at least somewhat familiar with the lower wattage boxes to help him out with it. But I definitely need something reliable for him. I was considering the starter kit from Sun vapors for him and an extra tank. Will any standard usb wall jack work, or should I look for a specific output voltage, and same with the cable?

If your are getting him an istick I would recommend an Aspire Nautilus Mini With 1.8 ohm coils and wall wart that has a 1 amp (1000mah) rating. It has been my personal set up for 2 months now and I have had great results with performance and flavor/vapor production at 3 istick volts. The coils have been lasting me over a month so he won't have to change them as often. Also the tank has a spring loaded pin which is easier on the isticks 510 connection. One thing to note is that when refilling the mini nautilus is not to screw it back together tight as it will be hard to unscrew it again. Just a lite easy turn till it starts to snug up then stop. just my

 

[billherbst]

If your are getting him an istick I would recommend an Aspire Nautilus Mini With an 1.8 ohm coil and wall wart that has a 1 amp (1000mah) rating. It has been my personal set up for 2 months now and I have had great results with performance and flavor/vapor production.

What he said.

 

[lulu836]

I'm not a native English speaker and that ' shoot skip at night ' I'm not sure if it is a phrasal verb, an idiom or a literal expression. Anyway (taking it literally...) I never put anything special on antennas, just fiddled a lot with them to stay low on SWR...... funny the things sometimes we did to that.....

Lost in translation.

 

[aldenf]

One guy did a DNA 40 upgrade and said it was such a PITA that he isn't going to do a write up on it. I thought about upgrading it too but the case isn't easy to work in.

Thanks, KTMRider. I saw his video and Reddit post. He specifically wanted to keep it stock-looking on the exterior, utilizing Eleaf's buttons, etc. I don't care if the "numbers match".

On further examination, the sx130's form factor is completely wrong for the iStick. Though, the sx350 Mini might work. I'll probably just pick up a ChiDNA board at $20 for the experiment and build a DNA 40 in a box slightly easier to work in. I've only ever built a VAMO box mod. So I don't want to take on one of Mamu's projects for the first DNA build.

 

[aldenf]

You can get the SX350 board here

DIY PARTS / KITS - A to Z Vapor World™

But it's more than an iStick

Thanks, Paul! Another DIY resource for my bookmarks.

 

[aldenf]

I wonder if Yihi would be amendable to a co-op buy on the SX130...I'd certainly get in on that.

I guess it's worth a try...

From their website:

"Delivery Detail: We already Authorized to a manufacturer , not available to others."

I wouldn't count on its availability though.

 

[Mrez]

If your are getting him an istick I would recommend an Aspire Nautilus Mini With 1.8 ohm coils and wall wart that has a 1 amp (1000mah) rating. It has been my personal set up for 2 months now and I have had great results with performance and flavor/vapor production at 3 istick volts. The coils have been lasting me over a month so he won't have to change them as often. Also the tank has a spring loaded pin which is easier on the isticks 510 connection. One thing to note is that when refilling the mini nautilus is not to screw it back together tight as it will be hard to unscrew it again. Just a lite easy turn till it starts to snug up then stop. just my

Thanks, sun capers has an eleaf starter kit for 80ish bucks that comes with a naut mini. My last glassomizer was a protank 3 with airflow. Looks like the premades have come a ways.

 

[Cotay]

Thanks, sun capers has an eleaf starter kit for 80ish bucks that comes with a naut mini. My last glassomizer was a protank 3 with airflow. Looks like the premades have come a ways.

FYI, you can get the full eLeaf iStick kit (i.e. charger, usb cord, ego adapter) with a Nautilus Mini for $60 on eBay.

 

[Cotay]

Thanks, KTMRider. I saw his video and Reddit post. He specifically wanted to keep it stock-looking on the exterior, utilizing Eleaf's buttons, etc. I don't care if the "numbers match".

On further examination, the sx130's form factor is completely wrong for the iStick. Though, the sx350 Mini might work. I'll probably just pick up a ChiDNA board at $20 for the experiment and build a DNA 40 in a box slightly easier to work in. I've only ever built a VAMO box mod. So I don't want to take on one of Mamu's projects for the first DNA build.

That's too bad about the SX130. Is it because the USB port is oriented on the top of the board on the SX130?