Eleaf Istick

[aldenf]

I located the bag of o-rings. They were actually sent to me for replacements on drip tips. I think they are too big for the istick (1.5 x 6MM).
Aldenf, do you recall the size that you used?

I have #60 Danco o-rings (1/4" O.D x 1/8" I.D. x 1/16"). I took a bit of time and sanded the o-ring a bit flat on one side so, once installed, most attys sit flush with the top cap.

Those 1.5 x 6mm o-rings may work great! Not sure. The [HASHTAG]#60s[/HASHTAG] are a bit stiff and a challenge to stretch over the top of the 510 pin.

Good luck!

 

[IMRs]

I have #60 Danco o-rings (1/4" O.D x 1/8" I.D. x 1/16"). I took a bit of time and sanded the o-ring a bit flat on one side so, once installed, most attys sit flush with the top cap.

Those 1.5 x 6mm o-rings may work great! Not sure. The [HASHTAG]#60s[/HASHTAG] are a bit stiff and a challenge to stretch over the top of the 510 pin.

Good luck!

Thanks. I'm looking at the outer diameter and it looks sort of big.

 

[TrollDragon]

Too big...
And I love the nautilus marks, mine had them too.

 

[IMRs]

Too big...

I'm going to look at my other ones that I accumulated. If not, I'll just match one up at the hardware.
The Stick is still going strong though.

 

[TrollDragon]

The silicone insulator from a Kangertech BDC will do an excellent job as well, but you have to take it apart and unsolder the positive wire.

 

[IMRs]

The silicone insulator from a Kangertech BDC will do an excellent job as well, but you have to take it apart and unsolder the positive wire.

The one to the left on the table or the one on the threads?

 

[TrollDragon]

The grey one on the left was the original pin insulator that split in half. The Kanger one is installed on the iSticks pin in the picture.

 

[mudram99]

Good call, IMRs! I also found it unnecessary to disassemble the 20 to install the o-ring.

Alden so far from the top the best fix I have found is the silicone oring of the top of either a air coil or a X.I coil both work well without making the atty sit to high from the iStick. Takes a little finesse to get it in properly but works great.

 

[mudram99]

The silicone insulator from a Kangertech BDC will do an excellent job as well, but you have to take it apart and unsolder the positive wire.

Many good options if you open it, but from the top its limited unless you don't mind a 1/16" gap between atty and iStick

 

[TrollDragon]

Many good options if you open it, but from the top its limited unless you don't mind a 1/16" gap between atty and iStick

It's only a matter of time once the o-ring goes till the threads go...
I found the Kanger insulator to work well replacing the original without any height issues. Then my threads stripped out and FDV came to the rescue!

I understand the Sigelei mini 30W i ordered has the same top threads as the iStick 20W so I can see a FDV low profile flat connector going onto it as well.

$6 for the connector, a little solder and some time tinkering is well worth it to me.

 

[aldenf]

It's only a matter of time once the o-ring goes till the threads go...
I found the Kanger insulator to work well replacing the original without any height issues. Then my threads stripped out and FDV came to the rescue!

I understand the Sigelei mini 30W i ordered has the same top threads as the iStick 20W so I can see a FDV low profile flat connector going onto it as well.

$6 for the connector, a little solder and some time tinkering is well worth it to me.

At least the entire top cap of the Sigelei will not need to be replaced to accommodate the FDV 510! Personally, I would try to find a dead 30W, if they exist, and swap its top cap to the 20W.

 

[IMRs]

Many good options if you open it, but from the top its limited unless you don't mind a 1/16" gap between atty and iStick

I actually don't mind because I now have a habit of making sure it isn't scraping or hitting the top of the Stick (also knowing the pin isn't getting knocked down anymore). As Troll said...
Thanks to the Nauti's and not knowing, early on that this was going to happen. My other 2 Sticks aren't much newer than this one and there's not a mark on the 'Frohme' (Fake chrome)! I don't have (or it's lost somewhere) a soldering iron at the moment, so I'll just get an o-ring at the hardware. Thanks everyone for your concern and answers to this MAJOR dilemma!!
Really! Thanks!

 

[TrollDragon]

Good Luck IMRs and keep us posted!

 

[IMRs]

Good Luck IMRs and keep us posted!

If I decide to go out and about,

I'll pick up some o-rings. Thanx!

 

[BNEAT]

When my 510 threads give up the fight, it's going straight in the garbage!

 

[IMRs]

When my 510 threads give up the fight, it's going straight in the garbage!

Threading isn't the problem Neat. It's the darn pin and in my opinion, if they would've put a 10 cent ring in the thing instead of uh... the elastic like ring that's in there, it wouldn't be the problem for most people.
With threading anything, I have ocd, so my threads will probably outlast me!

 

[Bikenstein]

When my 510 threads give up the fight, it's going straight in the garbage!

I'll give you 5 bucks for it.

 

[Cheechako]

I'll give you 5 bucks for it.

I'll give you $5.50 and a dead frog!

 

[IMRs]

I'll give you $5.50 and a dead frog!

I'll give'm a live one.

 

[aldenf]

IMRs appears to have partaken of the wacky e-juice again...