I have a problem that I hope someone has some experience with. Whenever I fill up my lemo completely, I tend to get a ton of dry hits. Once the juice level sinks below the base of the chimney, It's perfect. I will add that my juice varies from50/50 to 70/30 pg. I run a 1.3ohm coil around 13-14 watts. Too much cotton? Not enough cotton? Anyone have this problem? Oh and I'm using organic cotton balls for my wicks. Thanks
Eleaf Lemo dry hits problem
- Thread starter Cfox23
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You're using too much cotton. When your tank gets lower, it is a combination of the air pressure pushing the liquid in to the base, as well as the time it takes for the cotton to really become saturated that is making the hits better.
Try using less cotton; don't shove it down the sides of the chimney wall; cut a bit more off than you have been, and gently place it down the sidewalls so it is sitting above the liquid channels. You don't want a huge, thick amount of cotton. Eventually it will work fine as long as it isn't completely blocked off, but using a little too much and making it a little too dense will cause problems until the amount of cotton has time to become fully saturated and the pressure pushes the liquid to it,
If i'm mistaken, please someone correct me, but I think this will help you profusely
Try using less cotton; don't shove it down the sides of the chimney wall; cut a bit more off than you have been, and gently place it down the sidewalls so it is sitting above the liquid channels. You don't want a huge, thick amount of cotton. Eventually it will work fine as long as it isn't completely blocked off, but using a little too much and making it a little too dense will cause problems until the amount of cotton has time to become fully saturated and the pressure pushes the liquid to it,
If i'm mistaken, please someone correct me, but I think this will help you profusely
You need to leave a bubble in the tank when filling it.
If it's to late for that, cover the 4 air holes with thumbs and forefingers and take a couple of pulls on it without firing your mod. That's usually enough to get it going again.
In my limited experience, I think I figured out how the negative pressure works. Liquid does not expand with lower pressure, and without a bubble you will not have efficient juice feed. The way it works, when you take a puff, the pressure drops in the tank and the air bubble expands pushing the juice into the chamber. The bigger the bubble, the more it expands, and more juice makes its way into the chamber. That's half the story. The air expansion has to be big enough so when you stop the puff, and the air bubble contracts it contracts enough to suck the juice out of the juice channels and also sucks some air from the chamber into the tank to equalize the pressure again or your next puff you will get a dry hit.
I guess one way of looking at it. If you have a 10ml bubble and you create enough negative pressure to expand it by 10% you will inject 1ml of juice into the chamber (10% of 10ml = 1ml) on the other hand, if you have a 100ml bubble and expand it by 10%, you will inject 10ml of juice into the chamber (10% of 100ml = 10ml)
Just by looking at the above example it becomes clear that a bigger bubble = more juice in the chamber.
When I fill the lemo, I fill it upside down until it reaches the chamber. That leaves a perfect bubble for me to start with. As the juice drains and the bubble increases I get better feed and can easily increase the wattage.
Just my observations. Could be wrong and way off base.
Edit: by covering the air holes when taking the puff or adjusting the air flow, you create a bigger pressure drop and the bubble expands more, air volume (bubble size) is inversely proportional to pressure. So you compensate for the smaller bubble with larger pressure drop. In the above example the bubble expansion could possibly be 15% with the lower pressure. 10% IMHO is very liberal and unrealistic, but it is a nice round number for the example.
I guess one way of looking at it. If you have a 10ml bubble and you create enough negative pressure to expand it by 10% you will inject 1ml of juice into the chamber (10% of 10ml = 1ml) on the other hand, if you have a 100ml bubble and expand it by 10%, you will inject 10ml of juice into the chamber (10% of 100ml = 10ml)
Just by looking at the above example it becomes clear that a bigger bubble = more juice in the chamber.
When I fill the lemo, I fill it upside down until it reaches the chamber. That leaves a perfect bubble for me to start with. As the juice drains and the bubble increases I get better feed and can easily increase the wattage.
Just my observations. Could be wrong and way off base.
Edit: by covering the air holes when taking the puff or adjusting the air flow, you create a bigger pressure drop and the bubble expands more, air volume (bubble size) is inversely proportional to pressure. So you compensate for the smaller bubble with larger pressure drop. In the above example the bubble expansion could possibly be 15% with the lower pressure. 10% IMHO is very liberal and unrealistic, but it is a nice round number for the example.
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as said above trim the edge of you wick shorter and its ok to have a little extra wick as long as you can keep it off the wall of the well where the juice enters the well, but its best to also have the wick just almost touch the bottom of the well. then you shouldn't even have to worry about priming your tank. in the The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics. alot of us have been using a bridging technique innovated by WeirdWillie and it works amazingly.
example:
the most important part the pic is that you can see the wick is backed off the wall where the juice enters the well. (circled in red) weather you want to try bridging is up to you.
example:
the most important part the pic is that you can see the wick is backed off the wall where the juice enters the well. (circled in red) weather you want to try bridging is up to you.
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I use a decent amount of cotton, probably more than narrdarr uses. I trim my wicks, put the chimney base on, and then I take each end of the cotton and kind of fold it over on itself and then gently push it down to the deck so that the ends of the wick are against the base. I don't clear the juice channel or push them against the wall. I just prime and then fill. Never get any dry hits and I use mainly 70/30pg juice.
Thanks for the tips everyone. Il try a build tonight and see how it goes. Thanks!
Thanks from me too on the advice!
I have the Lemo Drop and the build I had on it Monday night was right on and wonderful all through Tuesday. I changed juices last night so decided to re-wick. Could Not Get It Right! Tried three times and got dry hits after a bit. Appears I cut the ends too long and blocked the channels. There seems to be a fine line with the wicking...and between Love and Hate.
I have the Lemo Drop and the build I had on it Monday night was right on and wonderful all through Tuesday. I changed juices last night so decided to re-wick. Could Not Get It Right! Tried three times and got dry hits after a bit. Appears I cut the ends too long and blocked the channels. There seems to be a fine line with the wicking...and between Love and Hate.
Rebuilt last night with some of the tricks you guys suggested and voila! No more dry hits at all. Thanks a ton!
Glad we could help. There's not much worse than getting a product everyone is raving about, having different experience with it, and not being able to figure out what is going on. Do you mind me asking what you did to help?
That's usually how it is with these products. It's hard to keep in mind that even though cotton is absorbent, it is supposed to be a wick and not packing material. It's kind of funny how just a little bit of a change in the amount you use changes the wicking properties completely. I understand why so many people use the word finicky when describing their builds with a lot of these tanks.
My general rule of thumb is to make sure the cotton can slide smoothly between the coil (it will expand when it absorbs liquid so you need some room), and to chop it of either right at the top of the chimney bottom section, or maybe 1-2mm above that
Thanks man! I've only been building for about 6 weeks and am still getting the hang what with fat fingers and old eyes.
i couldn't agree more. and yes please do share.
indeed
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I made my wicks shorter than I normally do and instead of stuffing them into then juice channel, I laid them just on the top of the deck right above the juice channel. I've been through 3 tanks and I couldn't be happier!
Hot Damn! It worked guys!
26 gauge Kanthal, 7/64ths bit, 1.1 ohm coil. Tried the suggestions of putting a little liquid on the screws, make my leads long so I could wrap around but, they still got spit out when tightening. Straightened out the legs and fed through the holes. Success!
Cut the rayon just at the edge to where it barely touched the juice channel top. 20.5 watts and My Vape Juice Sutliff Private Stock Spinnaker Pipe Tobacco is there in full force. Dig it!
Thanks again for all the tips!
26 gauge Kanthal, 7/64ths bit, 1.1 ohm coil. Tried the suggestions of putting a little liquid on the screws, make my leads long so I could wrap around but, they still got spit out when tightening. Straightened out the legs and fed through the holes. Success!
Cut the rayon just at the edge to where it barely touched the juice channel top. 20.5 watts and My Vape Juice Sutliff Private Stock Spinnaker Pipe Tobacco is there in full force. Dig it!
Thanks again for all the tips!
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