Erlkonigin and Clone Comparison

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KTMRider

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You know, every week I can find an excuse to buy a VV/VW decive... I need help !!! No, willllllpowwwwweeeer !!!

Resistance is futile (see what I did there? :D).


Hey me too!... I live in Washington Twp. Let me know, if you want to meet up shoot me a p.m and I will give my cell. Hang in there the atomizer is def worth it.

I'm in East Rutherford. Grew up in River Vale.


Sorry KTM, thats kind of how I felt the other night lol. You know, I do think there is a flaw in the design of the Erl. Relying on a top plate pressed against o rings surrounding a top fill port doesn't seem exactly like the ideal way to implement. I know a lot of people really like toolless designs, but I can't help but think the Erl might have been a little better with a bottom fill port similar to a Kayfun and a proper top cap that isn't two discs pressed against each other. Just creates too many potential points of failure for the vacuum to leak. And especially considering how massive the juice channels are, it REALLY needs a proper vacuum.

Just my thoughts after trying and failing with it the other night.

Also, I did think it was interesting you said it felt less oversaturated with the flow control ring removed. To me it seems like the opposite. The flow ring doesn't make the channel opening any larger, as long as the chimney is flush with the ring. It should just make the chimney 1mm or so taller. But another important thing I noticed is that is does help stop juice from flowing freely into the channels. It sort of creates a wall between the liquid above and below the ring, because the ring extends ever so slightly out from the base and creates a smaller opening for juice to enter from above the flow ring. Meaning the full pressure of the liquid is not pushing at the juice channel opening. Notice how bubble would get stuck below the flow ring sometimes? Because it has less area to escape up.

Idk if that makes sense. But to me it seems like the flow ring does help prevent excess liquid pressure at the juice channel.

I thought the double top plate was a great idea and one of the reasons I wanted to try an ErlK. Once the drip tip is screwed on, there's more than enough pressure to hold the plates together and create a seal. I do like filling the KFL+ even with tools. It's simple and doesn't have the chance to lose vacuum and flood like the ErlK though.

The reason I took out the wick ring is to get the chimney to sit a bit lower so it will make a better seal with the wicks inside that block the juice from entering the chamber. The ring has cutouts so I don't think it interferes with the juice channels at all. It did work better last night and I was getting less wet/slurping pulls.

I also tried raising the coil a bit and that didn't make much of a difference.

I'm going to try a 2.4mm coil with even more wick material.
 

Millah

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Ah I see what you mean. Yea, I guess it kind of seems like you need to have the damn wick covering pretty much the entire vertical height of the chimney ;)

What I meant about the flow ring, yes it does have cutouts where it rests at the channel. But if you look, it adds a protrusion outwards towards the plastic tank ever so slight around the base. Its almost like a smaller liquid reservoir below the flow ring, which has less pressure, because it adds a tiny little barrier with the rest of the tank. Maybe I'm just overthinking it, but I saw juice bubbles getting trapped below the ring due to less space for it to escape from, so I was kind of thinking that it acted kind of like a smaller reservoir with less liquid pressure.

But if you say you had less gurgling with the ring removed, can't really argue with that.
 

tchavei

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On my erlp, once you tighten the drip tip, the two plates are locked together. There is no way of moving one of those plates, not even with fair amount of force. I just tried.

I hope you don't give up and are able to figure out the problem.

Good luck


Regards
Tony

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KTMRider

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On my erlp, once you tighten the drip tip, the two plates are locked together. There is no way of moving one of those plates, not even with fair amount of force. I just tried.

I hope you don't give up and are able to figure out the problem.

Good luck


Regards
Tony

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Same with the ErlK clone.


Going in for another build with 2.4mm coil. Using straight VG juice so I don't keep wasting juice. Good thing I bought 500' of rayon. At the rate this is going, I might have to buy another box next month :p.
 

jaxgator

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How big was your coil?

I'm sorry but I don't have an exact measurement. It is approximately 2mm. I use a coil winding tool and it came with 5 mandrels (4.5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 1.5mm, and 1mm). I found a coat hanger that is pretty much right in between the 3 and 1.5 sizes.

Also, I did think it was interesting you said it felt less oversaturated with the flow control ring removed. To me it seems like the opposite. The flow ring doesn't make the channel opening any larger, as long as the chimney is flush with the ring. It should just make the chimney 1mm or so taller. But another important thing I noticed is that is does help stop juice from flowing freely into the channels.

I concur. Using the plastic tank I could see the bubbles and manipulate the mod to get them to release. When I started using the SS tanks I could no longer see the bubbles of course and sometimes would get near dry hits. I eventually completely removed the wick ring on all of my Erlks and haven't had any issues. The ErlprinZ is sold without it. It is my understanding that its purpose actually doesn't control wicking but rather was used to hold silica in place.
 

tchavei

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Just don't see a way liquid pouring out with a proper vacuum and rayon stuffed in there...

When you open the chimney, does the rayon have marks on the shoulders from the chimney?

Like this one where you can see clearly the shape of the chimney marked?

fd6fb5270c52b4936a411d6ec3542214.jpg


It's also possible, even though unlikely, for the wick to be so massive that while screwing the chimney down, the friction is high enough to dislodge the wick from the channel to the side opening the holes to flood?

Regards
Tony

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KTMRider

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First build. 2.38mm (3/32" drill bit). Fail. Liquid everywhere again.

I decided to put the wick ring back in and no more leaks but back to the wet/slurpy pulls and some popping. The popping seems to occur more at higher wattages. I tried slower draws and that helps a bit but not much.

I think there might've been a very small vacuum leak lowering the chimney 1mm after looking at it while I was putting it together. The top of the chimney doesn't completely seal on the oring. Doesn't make sense because it should seal on the inside and outside of the o-ring and not the bottom, if that makes sense. I could probably put another o-ring on the chimney shaft. Also, when testing by closing the afc and taking a pull, I couldn't feel any air coming out but I guess that doesn't completely rule out a very small leak. I didn't have any leaks yesterday when I took the wick ring out though.

Tchavei - My wick looks like that when I take the chimney off. It doesn't move out of the channels. I was looking for that too.
 

tchavei

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This is a mystery indeed :/

The top cap should screw on the chimney until it compresses the o-ring. This should form a solid block between the base, chimney and lower top cap plate.

I can only speculate but if the tank is just an hair too tall, the lower top cap would not rest against the o-ring thus letting air escape through the top threading?

Don't know... I had my erlprinz with both top holes open for two minutes and it didn't leak through the bottom :/

Regards
Tony

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KTMRider

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I don't think the wick ring/chimney o-ring was really the issue though. I really don't like the wet/slurpy/popping pulls. I tried from 6w-20w on my Istick and it didn't make much difference other than more popping at higher wattages.

I think I'll just stick to my KFL+, 3.1 and KFL+ v2 when it comes. I don't want to have to worry about this leaking or just not working when I go out. It's too bad because I really like the size, weight and capacity.
 

shatteredsoul76

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  • Jul 23, 2014
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    I noticed Im getting bubbles under the feed ring at the juice channels, Im guessing the ring is trapping the bubbles down there and keeping the juice from wicking properly causing my wrir problems? I have the AFC opened about half way, is it drawing in too much air causing the bubbles or is it the feed ring? Other than this small issue Im loving this tank and really want to get it vaping perfectly so I can give my KF clone a rest.
     

    shatteredsoul76

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  • Jul 23, 2014
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    Thanks for the help, I never really paid attention to the bubbles until I read through this thread. I will be removing the ring as soon as I vape the rest of the juice in the tank. If removing the ring fixes my issue I will be ordering two more clones, another for myself and one for my dad to go along with the Provari I got him for x-mas gifts.
     

    KTMRider

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    Ok, so I made one more attempt. I trimmed the rayon in there and it's less wet/slurpy/popping. Still no leaks but I left the wick ring in. No flooding either. It's still loud.

    I think I had too much rayon or it wicks too well and that's what gave me the idea of trimming the rayon already in there. There was a LOT too. I think there's still too much but it's getting better so I'm going in the right direction. I will say that I haven't had a dry hit on this ever.
     
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