Erlkonigin and Clone Comparison

Status
Not open for further replies.

jaxgator

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 24, 2014
3,016
5,447
Jacksonville, FL
I didnt see this until now, I will have to order some of those........... I ended up getting a piece of plastic, poking a hole in it for the screw, and trimming it to fit...it worked but I ended up messing up the 510 pin on my wizard! :facepalm: unscrewing it so far as to try and make connection with that recessed pin, once I got the make shift washer installled and the Earl was no longer flush, I tried to screw the 510 back down and it wouldnt budge... so when I unscrewed it a little to get it moving the center screw part came out (of the WAE2), and ALL attempts to get it to go back in would not work.......... The threads on either the pin itself or the little brass threaded bushing have gotten all messed up... I ended up just kind of pushing the 510 screw (think press fit) back in to the brass bushing thing, to the point where it doesnt fall out, but doesnt screw in or out either....so now my WAE2 adjustable pin has been damaged, and that I will have to fix.............................I am not a happy camper right now.

Oh man. That totally sux! Yeah, I'd be ...... as hell if I screwed up my WAE II as well. When I got my first ErlK, I was having an issue with it making a good contact with my WAE II too. I tried to back out the 510 connector but it was already as far out as it would come. Then, qorax told me that the Erlkonigin guys taped a spacer to the box. Put that on and all was well.

On yet another topic, I am considering a Squape Reloaded..... anyone have one in this thread? care to compare it to the Earl's, kayfuns, etc...? Like many of you (I'm sure), I have this assortment of tanks and RDAs, at some point it just seems silly to keep buying only to "collect" them............so I do value your opinions on the Squape R...........

I had an authentic SQr. Personally, I'd say that it performs right up there with my ErlKs. The SQr can be opened up to have more air flow than the ErlK. I ended up trading it with another forum member for his ErlK. The reason I traded it was because of the weight, length and capacity differences. That's where the ErlK shined above the SQr imo.
 
Oh man. That totally sux! Yeah, I'd be ...... as hell if I screwed up my WAE II as well. When I got my first ErlK, I was having an issue with it making a good contact with my WAE II too. I tried to back out the 510 connector but it was already as far out as it would come. Then, qorax told me that the Erlkonigin guys taped a spacer to the box. Put that on and all was well.



I had an authentic SQr. Personally, I'd say that it performs right up there with my ErlKs. The SQr can be opened up to have more air flow than the ErlK. I ended up trading it with another forum member for his ErlK. The reason I traded it was because of the weight, length and capacity differences. That's where the ErlK shined above the SQr imo.

I would love a SR Clone that works! Still waiting or might get the EHPRO one. Also, I really want a nano Erlkonigin clone - Anyone know if the nano kit works on the Erlk clone?
 

KTMRider

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 5, 2014
4,538
18,079
NJ
Wonder how KTMRider is doing with his clone... The anticipation is killing me :lol:

Meh.

I'm assuming the wet/slurpy draw was from the air leak. The o-ring (#60) fixed that but I'm still getting some popping. I tried it on different mods and it happens to varying degrees. Is anyone else using rayon on this thing? Should I switch back to cotton?


I would love a SR Clone that works! Still waiting or might get the EHPRO one. Also, I really want a nano Erlkonigin clone - Anyone know if the nano kit works on the Erlk clone?

There's a bunch of new Erlk clones coming out lately. I think at least 10 different companies so I don't think the nano clone is too far behind. The only other RBA I'm interested in is the new KF and the Lemo Drop. I have no interest in trying anything else on the market.
 

jaxgator

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 24, 2014
3,016
5,447
Jacksonville, FL
Anyone know if the nano kit works on the Erlk clone?

The authentic ErlK nano chimney as well as the standard sized chimney do NOT fit on the ErlK clone that I have.

Meh.

I'm assuming the wet/slurpy draw was from the air leak. The o-ring (#60) fixed that but I'm still getting some popping. I tried it on different mods and it happens to varying degrees. Is anyone else using rayon on this thing? Should I switch back to cotton?

Yes, rayon is all I use. I get some popping with some builds and none with others. I'm not quite sure why it is happening though.
 

KTMRider

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 5, 2014
4,538
18,079
NJ
I removed the afc btw... Maybe that had something to do with that?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

Didn't make a difference with or w/o the afc ring. I also tried with rayon stuffed under the afc ring. It was a bit quieter but a pain in the ... and sometimes got wet, restricting airflow so I dumped that idea.

The popping spits juice onto the roof of my mouth and if I keep vaping, it gets numb from the nicotine.
 

PLANofMAN

Signature Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 9, 2012
4,147
8,070
45
Woodburn, OR
The authentic ErlK nano chimney as well as the standard sized chimney do NOT fit on the ErlK clone that I have.
...but it used to? Your first post in this thread said all authentic parts fit on the clone, but that the clone's chimney did not fit on the authentic.
 

Phone Guy

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 25, 2013
3,202
5,826
Arlington, Texas - USA
My $15 FastTech version finally shipped yesterday! I can't wait to try the 2mm posi post, drip tip adapter and steel drip tip... The anticipation is killing me!

Ive seen the clone with the steel drip tip and adapter, is there a clone with the 2mm air post? or is that an original piece?
Linky??? :D
 

Phone Guy

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 25, 2013
3,202
5,826
Arlington, Texas - USA
Oh man. That totally sux! Yeah, I'd be ...... as hell if I screwed up my WAE II as well. When I got my first ErlK, I was having an issue with it making a good contact with my WAE II too. I tried to back out the 510 connector but it was already as far out as it would come. Then, qorax told me that the Erlkonigin guys taped a spacer to the box. Put that on and all was well.

I so wish I had made that washer in the beginning :( I obviously forcibly unscrewed my 510 pin on my WAE2 beyond where it was supposed to be, and damaged the threads.............. oh well, hopefully Mark (Bugs) can get me a new 510 pin assembly....



I had an authentic SQr. Personally, I'd say that it performs right up there with my ErlKs. The SQr can be opened up to have more air flow than the ErlK. I ended up trading it with another forum member for his ErlK. The reason I traded it was because of the weight, length and capacity differences. That's where the ErlK shined above the SQr imo.

That was the main reason I wanted the SqR was the larger air flow, but the Earl seems to have decent air flow, I have had little problem drawing lung hits and producing some decent vapor clouds....and with a 2mm air tube (see my above post with question) that would pretty much eliminate any restrictive air draw, at least I think.

Thanks for the response...
 

KTMRider

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 5, 2014
4,538
18,079
NJ
I broke out my dslr and have been taking pics but was so annoyed that I didn't want to post pics before.

3rd or 4th wicking on a 1.98mm ID coil

DSC_1921_zpsd421b318.jpg


DSC_1925_zps9c3bc4c4.jpg



Then I tried a 2.38mm coil, 1.7 ohm.

DSC_1928_zps89b12870.jpg



How much rayon I used

DSC_1930_zps86e39aad.jpg


DSC_1932_zpsfa285652.jpg



Trimmed

DSC_1933_zpsc85052f3.jpg


DSC_1935_zps60d18a99.jpg
 
Last edited:

vakaion

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 25, 2014
1,031
2,375
Australia
KTMRider: if you're still having trouble I have a suggestion, your wick is too long perhaps.

General rule of thumb I use for wick length on the Erl...
Wicking that goes down vertical juice channel: when dry and horizontal, never goes past a line vertical from the o-ring on the base.
Wick in the chimney: when dry and horizontal never goes far past a line vertical from the chimney threading on the base.
(you want the wick to just block the chimney, not possibly rotate with it when you screw the chimney on)

YMMV, but those rules haven't failed me with both cotton and rayon... yet. lol :)

edit: using a pic of yours as example:
DSC_1933_zpsc85052fgsg3.jpg
apologies for the basic Paint job, but I hope it helps. lol :)
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread