Erlkonigin and Clone Comparison
- Thread starter jaxgator
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This one is under $16, and from the picture, appears to have a 2mm air flow hole. Here's the link.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1893601
Ok received this one today, it does NOT have a 2mm air flow, it has the same 1.5mm air flow as my $17.xx version, I know this because a 2mm screwdriver will not fit in the hole but a 1.5mm screwdriver fits like a glove.
The o rings are red, NO spare parts, came with a wad of what looks like "cotton", 2 pre made coils that will not fit under the screws, the gauge wire is too thick, and the classic blue screwdriver.
Had NO o ring for the chimney and the top cap where it threads on, so I used a drip tip o ring there. Had NO wick ring thingy either (don't think that makes any difference honestly? )
I could not take the threading (510) piece out to remove the positive pin assembly, I tried but it sure didn't feel like it wanted to come loose. I'm sure it comes apart but I needed more time and the right tools, which I did not have at that moment.
The plastic tank just barely seals against the upper and lower red orings. Very loose fit, in fact I can spin just the tank once it's filled, assembled and attached.
It is wobbly even cranked down as far as I can safely torque it down on my wizard, I think that has to do with the 510 threaded part where the positive pin goes. I may have loosened it trying to separate it? Not sure until I examine that further.
It is MUCH quieter than my other erlkonigin, a lot less air noise (wooshing). It did come with a metal drip tip and adapter.
The 510 screw in the base is basically flush, but even flush it makes contact and fires. But still wobbles. Maybe this one had a longer 510 connector? Or maybe trying to disassemble it I moved it down?
Best part of the new one is less air noise, same draw with no afc. [emoji6]
It sounds like yours might be slightly different than mine. Possibly a different batch? Have you tried replacing the red o-rings with spare black ones from another Erlk? My tank fits tightly with the red o-rings and definitely has a larger airflow hole than the silver box version.
Mine didn't develop the dreaded "wobble" until after I dropped it (and the mod it was attached to) onto concrete from waist height. I'm waiting until the tank is empty before I take it apart and re-tighten everything.
Mine didn't develop the dreaded "wobble" until after I dropped it (and the mod it was attached to) onto concrete from waist height. I'm waiting until the tank is empty before I take it apart and re-tighten everything.
Can someone tell me how to rotate the pics? They are always right on my phone but I upload them here, and they rotate.
Maybe I need to do it from a desktop.
Maybe I need to do it from a desktop.
When I have time, I will take them off the mods and lay them next to each other and get more/better pics. I switched them last night anyway. The Yiloong has a longer 510 and that Paragon clone does not have an adjustable pin. That gap was bothering me, lol! The FT Erlk is the only atty I have that looks ok on it.
Lesson learned: don't assume all Paragons have an adjustable pin. Read the description thoroughly before getting excited about rose red carbon fiber
Lesson learned: don't assume all Paragons have an adjustable pin. Read the description thoroughly before getting excited about rose red carbon fiber
Must be? I haven't tried much with it yet. I'll play more today as time permits.
I don't know why this forum does that with attachments. The only way I know of to get them to show up correctly is to host them somewhere (I use my ISP) and then point to that address.
The problem is actually not the forum. Smartphones are really not smart when it comes to handling the photo's (exif)metadata. When you take a photo, they will write the appropriate orientation to the metadata based on a half a dozen different factors.
My phone won't copy the whole link from photobucket, etc. Its such a pain because then I have to go to my desktop.
So gonna rebuild my clone in a little bit, gonna be sitting in a Provari P3 & 2.5, so no lower than a 1.2 ohm (I believe that is the 2.5s limit). I have 32, 30, 28, 26, & 24 gauge kanthal, kgd, organic cotton, & ss mesh. What build should I do this time?
Current build is a 28g, kgd, 1.8 ohm micro.
Current build is a 28g, kgd, 1.8 ohm micro.
I would stick with 28. Too many wraps to use 26 with the cutoff on the Provari.
Parallel 32, one coil with two strands of 32 side by side... Smoothest vape ever.
If you more of "I like it ruff" kind of guy, then a twisted 30. Should pop and scream like crazy hehehe
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
If you more of "I like it ruff" kind of guy, then a twisted 30. Should pop and scream like crazy hehehe
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
28g, 7 wrap came out to 1.2 exactly...... sorry no pics.
homemade juice, 50/50, 12ml nic. 14.4 watts, 4v.
nice!!!!!
edit: now it's reading 1.1 on the P3
homemade juice, 50/50, 12ml nic. 14.4 watts, 4v.
nice!!!!!
edit: now it's reading 1.1 on the P3
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next build..... I'll try it.
how many wraps? what size bit?Need to do a Clapton on this, not sure if there's enough room without the bigger chimney. hmmm...... could possibly do that, but would have to run it on a mech, would probably come out below the .8 that the P3 will do.
Ugh. My IBTanked glass wouldn't fit my silver box clone. Not happy right now...
next build..... I'll try it.
Need to do a Clapton on this, not sure if there's enough room without the bigger chimney. hmmm...... could possibly do that, but would have to run it on a mech, would probably come out below the .8 that the P3 will do.
Bit size 2mm.
On the side-by-side parallel you will need 6 wraps (which in the end count as 12) will put you at 1.31 Ohms
With the twisted you'll have to experiment. Try with 7 wraps and if too high, remove a wrap and retest. I use 32 Ohms mixed with 29 Ohms which comes out at 1.3 with 7 wraps.
Regards
Tony
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