EUREKA! No-Battery sacrifice adapter for 801 Penstyle
- Thread starter Ripley
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Looks great! Nobody at the home depot knew where the hell the nylon spacers were so I decided to venture online and found these RSN-04/12 Nylon Spacer, 3/4" Long x 0.187" OD x 0.115" ID for #4 Screw Size - SmallParts.com It says its for a #4 screw and they have others that say its for a #2 screw. Does that matter at all? I haven't ordered any of them yet as I was not sure if that detail about the screw sizes matters or not.
I'll double check the size when I hit up my hardware store tomorrow. If you have a Lowes, or ACE hardware, you'll be able to find them. That would be your best bet so you can test fit everything.
I have used brass tubing from a hobby store and sahrink wrap as an insulator. I don't think that the tubing is necessary for airflow. They also sell solid round brass stock in like 1 foot lengths cheap.
thanks for the heads up on the brass tube, but I decided its not worth the hassle anymore.
to ceo
I went to another home depot thats close by (wierd that there are no loews or ace close by me but 2 home depots) and I am sure that the one you used cannot be the 3/16" OD nylon spacers, they are just to small. 1/4" on the other hand fits better but will probably require glue to fasten it. So the size of the nylon spacer you want should be 1/4" and possibly 5/16" maybe but probably not, if the one you have required some forcing in it was probably the 5/16" if it looks like it covers all the inside but goes in and out smoothly its the 1/4".
I went to another home depot thats close by (wierd that there are no loews or ace close by me but 2 home depots) and I am sure that the one you used cannot be the 3/16" OD nylon spacers, they are just to small. 1/4" on the other hand fits better but will probably require glue to fasten it. So the size of the nylon spacer you want should be 1/4" and possibly 5/16" maybe but probably not, if the one you have required some forcing in it was probably the 5/16" if it looks like it covers all the inside but goes in and out smoothly its the 1/4".
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Nice this means I can make a manual switch pass through quite easily for my 801 now! It sucks since in the car I have a killer sub setup that at like 1/4 volume sets the batteries off. The spare Im not too worried about since its just the LED lighting up, that shouldnt kill the battery (I would think, its only an LED for 15 mins or so, which was lit up when I got the package so it was lit most of the way from china and still had power left to vape). However this could burn up the atomizer since it would be running damn near nonstop.
So basically I could screw this in (after adding center screw), hook up the + and - from a usb cord (switch on the + duh) and be good basically? Also which is which on these for the polarity? Sorry for the questions, I just got my be-112 (aka dse-801) and NEED a manual switch passthrough for the car. Curse my sound system for hampering the e-smoking!!!!
So basically I could screw this in (after adding center screw), hook up the + and - from a usb cord (switch on the + duh) and be good basically? Also which is which on these for the polarity? Sorry for the questions, I just got my be-112 (aka dse-801) and NEED a manual switch passthrough for the car. Curse my sound system for hampering the e-smoking!!!!
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Well I just got done making my usb manual passthrough and it works like a charm. For a small case I used an old car adapter dongle and the inside was perfect, a little cutting away of stuff and everything went in just fine. The cable is a bit short for my pc but I need to get a powered usb hub anyways. Its the perfect length for the car however. Now I might make a battery pack with the other switch and connector, or something.
I didn't realize this post was about a battery pack, I thought it was about making passthroughs, so I went to work on that.
Considering I have spent over $100 on passthroughs that are now dead, I had been on analogs for the last 3 days waiting for my stuff to come in. I had to do something quick.
I followed the posts here with the Radio Shack phone jack and bought the smallest momentary switch available and came up with this:
The box is an empty pellet box from my dad's pellet gun, just to hold the connections. The wife says it's looks, well you know, but I'm off analogs.
I couldn't find a tubing for the insulator, but I found this at the local hardware store. I'ts a 1/4" x 3/4" nylon anchor for drywall and a 4-40 x 1 1/4" brass screw. I figured the anchor would spread and hold onto the inner wall of the jack and since the screw head was small enough, I didn't have to modify that.
I did, however have to trim the head off of the nylon anchor. All I did was chuck it up in my drill and ran it on some sandpaper until the head was gone.
This is the best a sheet metal guy could do with limited electronic knowledge. And here are a couple more pics.
This is day one, so I really don't know if it will last but, we'll see.
-Paul
Considering I have spent over $100 on passthroughs that are now dead, I had been on analogs for the last 3 days waiting for my stuff to come in. I had to do something quick.
I followed the posts here with the Radio Shack phone jack and bought the smallest momentary switch available and came up with this:
The box is an empty pellet box from my dad's pellet gun, just to hold the connections. The wife says it's looks, well you know, but I'm off analogs.
I couldn't find a tubing for the insulator, but I found this at the local hardware store. I'ts a 1/4" x 3/4" nylon anchor for drywall and a 4-40 x 1 1/4" brass screw. I figured the anchor would spread and hold onto the inner wall of the jack and since the screw head was small enough, I didn't have to modify that.
I did, however have to trim the head off of the nylon anchor. All I did was chuck it up in my drill and ran it on some sandpaper until the head was gone.
This is the best a sheet metal guy could do with limited electronic knowledge. And here are a couple more pics.
This is day one, so I really don't know if it will last but, we'll see.
-Paul
you will be surprised on how long the manual switch usb lasts even if it is a DIY. The thing that seems to go bad in the passthroughs is the plunger switch. I found that a 1/4" OD nylon spacer with a #6 brass screw works best. Although you do have to secure it with some hot glue. great job on the mod paul!
Thanks for all the great info here. I'm determined to make a couple of these 801 battery box mods for me wifey and myself. It may take a while since my favorite tools are my Kubota taractor and a 24" chainsaw.
I wish I found this thread before I went to ratshack for the boxes, switches and phone jacks. I was pretty confused when I checked out the phone jacks and was wondering how to make a connection until I read about the brass screws and nylon sleeves.
Now trying to dissect a phone jack so it will physically fit inside of a AA box. This will be a challenge for the mechanically challenged. Maybe I'll have things ready before my batts and charger get here from China. LOL
I wish I found this thread before I went to ratshack for the boxes, switches and phone jacks. I was pretty confused when I checked out the phone jacks and was wondering how to make a connection until I read about the brass screws and nylon sleeves.
Now trying to dissect a phone jack so it will physically fit inside of a AA box. This will be a challenge for the mechanically challenged. Maybe I'll have things ready before my batts and charger get here from China. LOL
Sorry to drag up an older thread, but I wanted to share the new way I create a center conductor for 801 mods using the Radio Shack 1/4" mono phone jack. Thanks for that find, Ripley!!
I had varying degrees of success and failure sleeving a screw in a tube and inserting into the phone jack. Most failures occurred when too much juice seeped into the atomizer connector and loosened the adhesive holding the tube and screw. The other problem was the varing depth of the center conductor from an 801 to a 4072 to a BE112. I was constantly using my staple mod to get a connection.
About two weeks ago I visited a relatively new True Value Hardware store nearby. They have the absolute finest collection of bits and parts I have ever seen. I walked with a few short, hollow, 1/4" O.D. nylon spacers last week, hoping to use them with my last 801 Magnum build.
The photo below shows the my new favorite way to make a center conductor for the 801 connector.
The nylon spacer fits perfectly inside the phone jack and can be secured from the rear of the connector. The spring from a retractable ballpoint pen fits perfectly inside the spacer. This was a huge leap forward for me as the spring makes contact with the center conductor of every penstyle atomizer I have. Probably this spring concept is used by a few of the commercially available higer voltage devices, but I am offering this as an alternative for modders to consider and play with.
The nylon spacer can be set at any point below the deepest of the center conductors of your atomizer. The spring can stay proud of the entire connector and will retreat into the nylon spacer as the atomizer is screwed on.
I had varying degrees of success and failure sleeving a screw in a tube and inserting into the phone jack. Most failures occurred when too much juice seeped into the atomizer connector and loosened the adhesive holding the tube and screw. The other problem was the varing depth of the center conductor from an 801 to a 4072 to a BE112. I was constantly using my staple mod to get a connection.
About two weeks ago I visited a relatively new True Value Hardware store nearby. They have the absolute finest collection of bits and parts I have ever seen. I walked with a few short, hollow, 1/4" O.D. nylon spacers last week, hoping to use them with my last 801 Magnum build.
The photo below shows the my new favorite way to make a center conductor for the 801 connector.
The nylon spacer fits perfectly inside the phone jack and can be secured from the rear of the connector. The spring from a retractable ballpoint pen fits perfectly inside the spacer. This was a huge leap forward for me as the spring makes contact with the center conductor of every penstyle atomizer I have. Probably this spring concept is used by a few of the commercially available higer voltage devices, but I am offering this as an alternative for modders to consider and play with.
The nylon spacer can be set at any point below the deepest of the center conductors of your atomizer. The spring can stay proud of the entire connector and will retreat into the nylon spacer as the atomizer is screwed on.
Just a quick note: these 1/4 inch mono jacks are used on a ton of musical instruments. I just had my janty classic atty sticking out of my telecaster. Took off the retaining screw, and it screwed right on. You can find very pretty versions of these jacks at music stores. I'm already imagining a neat retro mod based on the stratocaster jack plate.
This is a great innovation.
It solves the problem of bad connections between the atomizer and connector that is common to most of our mods.
I had placed the spring behind the center conductor and using a 3/16" insulated sleeve, allowed the center contact and sleeve to float in the 1/4" hole, which works quite well.
This idea is much simpler, however and has fewer "moving parts" which is always better.
This would be a great "sticky" as well.
Sorry for the thread drift.
OK, am I completely losing it?!
Been working on a "Magnum" mod for the last week or so using this as my connector. My 801 attys just came in today, and will not fit. They are way too big, so it's not even a close one.
ETA- Nevermind...I am a complete tard. The retaining nut for the connector was blocking it from going all the way down.
Been working on a "Magnum" mod for the last week or so using this as my connector. My 801 attys just came in today, and will not fit. They are way too big, so it's not even a close one.
ETA- Nevermind...I am a complete tard. The retaining nut for the connector was blocking it from going all the way down.
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That's a great find ... now I wonder if it will fit my m201 atty I heard that it's a different thread. Well I guess I'm off to the rat shack in the morning to see if it fits.
Thanks
Thanks
Glad I bumped it for ya. This should really be a Sticky. Works like a charm.
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