+1 for that, I keep looking for it over there then remember it is in tips and tricks.
Possible Solution to 901 fitting to avoid battery destruction
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Can I just add, that for any of us based in the UK who don't have access to a RadioShack, you could try Maplin product code JK09K.
I've done the same as nicowolf and just removed the unused contacts. Fits perfectly inside an original 901 battery casing. Now all I need to do is find something clever to do with all the casings I've got from destroying batteries before coming across this connector !
I've done the same as nicowolf and just removed the unused contacts. Fits perfectly inside an original 901 battery casing. Now all I need to do is find something clever to do with all the casings I've got from destroying batteries before coming across this connector !
Thanks, Sun. That will help a lot.
Nicowolf--You are right--got to get organinzed around here. I had to bump this thread just so I could find it to move it--LOL---talk about the need for those catagories!!! Sun
This was one of the ones still left over in the Tips and Tricks section from ages ago, so don't feel bad, it wasn't exactly your domain.
Further info regarding chasis DC power sockets such as the UK Maplins JK10L that is perfect for a 901 atm.
We know the centre pin is the positive and has a solder tab at the rear of the socket.We allso know the other two solder tabs at the rear of the socket are not connected to the body of the socket (essensial as the body acts as the negative earth when the atomiser is screwed on).These two "spare"tabs act as a switch for the normal power plug the socket is designed for,the contact being a thin metal "tongue" that can be seen from the front of the socket.Now I have been soldering one of these tabs to the rear of the metal body to ground it and cutting off the third contact as not needed.
However my latest box mod utilises re chareable NiMh batts and I had rigged a second DC power socket into the body of the mod to allow re charge without removing the batts.
Only after I had finished did I have the Einstein "lightbulb" moment and realise just one of these sockets could act as both atomiser connection and re charge port.
Centre pin remains positive
Unswitched negative pin (connected to "tongue") to negative line in mod
Swithed negative metal finger pulled to exterior of socket,shortened then soldered to external body of switch to earth the screw body.Pin wired to negative line in mod.
One socket now acts as both atomiser connector and re-charge port.
Battery pack 7 1000 AAA NiMh 4 in series, 3 in series and both packs wired into mod in paralel gives 4 volts at atomiser.Re-charge uses 6volt 200 Mah cell phone charger.Use mod all day, plug in overnight.So far so good for 10 days!!
We know the centre pin is the positive and has a solder tab at the rear of the socket.We allso know the other two solder tabs at the rear of the socket are not connected to the body of the socket (essensial as the body acts as the negative earth when the atomiser is screwed on).These two "spare"tabs act as a switch for the normal power plug the socket is designed for,the contact being a thin metal "tongue" that can be seen from the front of the socket.Now I have been soldering one of these tabs to the rear of the metal body to ground it and cutting off the third contact as not needed.
However my latest box mod utilises re chareable NiMh batts and I had rigged a second DC power socket into the body of the mod to allow re charge without removing the batts.
Only after I had finished did I have the Einstein "lightbulb" moment and realise just one of these sockets could act as both atomiser connection and re charge port.
Centre pin remains positive
Unswitched negative pin (connected to "tongue") to negative line in mod
Swithed negative metal finger pulled to exterior of socket,shortened then soldered to external body of switch to earth the screw body.Pin wired to negative line in mod.
One socket now acts as both atomiser connector and re-charge port.
Battery pack 7 1000 AAA NiMh 4 in series, 3 in series and both packs wired into mod in paralel gives 4 volts at atomiser.Re-charge uses 6volt 200 Mah cell phone charger.Use mod all day, plug in overnight.So far so good for 10 days!!
The best ideas are the simplest - proved again !
Excellent tip, very well described. Thanks for sharing
Excellent tip, very well described. Thanks for sharing
,(break off the normally closed switch contact, the one that connects to the bottom of the post on the inside(not needed) and solder the metal strip that runs up the side to the base of the cap (portions with threads). This will be the ground or negative side. The center pin connector will be the positve side.
This would be a lot like Madog's tire valve mod for the 901. The part you just showed would be your negative contact. You would have to fashion your own positive contact. You could use a nail like Madog did. You just trim the length a little bit longer than the audio jack, insulate it so it can't touch the audio jack metal to metal, then stick it in the center. It should end up looking like a coax fitting like for cable TV. That center pin that you make is your positive connection.
EDIT to add: If this works, please start a thread and tell us all about it and how you did it. I know there are several modders looking for a fitting like this for the penstyle. They would be delighted to hear about it.
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I think breakfastchef posted his mod for this exact item
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/12260-pen-atomizer-thread-mods.html
Hope that helps.
Ok so I assume a few of you have tried this by now. How is the airflow for the atty. Does the center pin block the hole? Do the atty get exsesively hot because of this and is their a fix? Also is the diff beteen the ''M" and "N" conector make the difference in this posibal problem?
I used this in 2 mods now and works great. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/13992-11-00-battery-mods.html
the threads fit all my pen style atomizers perfectly. first i grinded it down almost to the the bolt. Used a thin nail for my positive. I used only hot glue to hold the nail in the center and insulate it from the outer bolt. I am still looking for something that is easier to use as grinding off all the outer crap on this plug is a pain.
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I have had no problem at all with air flow. The purpose of that hole on the bottom of the atomizer was not to provide airflow to the atty. It was there to allow the inhale to create a vacuum inside the battery housing, to activate the automatic switch. With no automatic switch to activate, we really have no need for that hole. I have seen people post that they soldered over that hole to keep from dripping liquid on their batteries. The DSE901/RN4075 has a tiny hole on the side of the atomizer - this provides the main airflow.
I plug that hole with calking as I do not want to be inhaling the inside of the battery box---just thought it would be a good idea. I also employ lead free solder as that seems prudent to do---great Mod Nicowolf--did you check out the box that is a little thicker with the slide kill switch? Sun
Good post! I use those kind of jacks all the time for guitar related stuff (effects pedals). Think I'll build me a fancy battery pack!
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