EverCool Variable Voltage Mod
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Here is a couple of the places i use for parts. Digikey has cheaper shipping with the choice of First class Mail as long as your order is not over the weight limit.
Digi-Key - 296-22773-5-ND (Manufacturer - PTR08100WVD)
PTR08100WVD Texas Instruments DC/DC Switching Controllers
not to hijack this great thread but I am having issues. I have built this board before and worked great. Now I built a new board to spec (except the caps are 100uf 16v) and I get voltage to the board but not out. I tested continuity to everything, checked all soldering points, using 3amp switch but No voltage out? any ideas? Thanks guys. Great and very informative thread.
Many thanks to BigBlue and all the technical contributors, and a special thanks to all the intrepid neophytes who convincingly made the case for untrained success. This forum rocks thanks to all you peoples.
I turned this...
into this
With all your help.
I turned this...
into this
With all your help.
Ok, having a bit of trouble here... built an evercool bottom feeder a while back, decided to build another for carto use, but wanted to include a digital voltage readout so I don't start frying cartos. I have searched and searched, and for the life of me cannot determine where in the circuit the display would go. I'm not so concerned about readings while not under load, so no additional switch to include. Just press the fire switch, check voltage, adjust as needed, lather, rinse, repeat...
As an aside, I feel completely beaten by this damn display... something so easy should not be so hard to figure out.
-Creighton
As an aside, I feel completely beaten by this damn display... something so easy should not be so hard to figure out.
-Creighton
I would use either wire leading to the atty and splice the voltage meter in series on the atty circuit.
Of course that will only give a voltage readout with a carto to complete the circuit.
Otherwise, I should think you could simply wire the voltage meter as if it were a second atty. Just two sets of wires from your PCB. One to atty, the other to meter.
Of course that will only give a voltage readout with a carto to complete the circuit.
Otherwise, I should think you could simply wire the voltage meter as if it were a second atty. Just two sets of wires from your PCB. One to atty, the other to meter.
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This configuration would be appropriate for measuring current (amperes) The circuit would have to be complete for this one to work. Remove the atty and your ammeter would read 0A (zero). Remove the meter and the atty won't fire. The full current drawn by the atty will flow through the Ammeter so it (the meter) should be rated appropriately.
This configuration would be appropriate for measuring voltage(drop) (volts) This method would also not require the atty be connected to the circuit for a reading. You would be able to take both loaded and unloaded voltage readings. (atty installed and atty removed) The atty would still fire if the Voltmeter were to be removed. The full current drawn by the atty does not flow through the meter in this configuration.
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View attachment POT KNOB.pdf
This is a spec data sheet from Digikey. Would this work in place of the usual trim pot?
This is a spec data sheet from Digikey. Would this work in place of the usual trim pot?
It will work with a ptr08100w. Looks like 470ohm is the closest one digikey stocks. So it will take your voltage swing down a bit to should go from 5.5 volts to around 2.3 volts. Might be a bit sensitive since it is a less then one turn pot. Has a rotation of 300 degrees.
I am hoping that those of you who are able to write "Electronics For Dummies" books, would help me and answer a few questions. I have been reading all the Mod postings and I want to make a variable volt mod for myself. The evercool which uses the TI SIP has caught my fancy and I tried putting one together using a freebie from TI. However, with my shaky hands and lack of proper tools I've managed to completely botch that attempt. I found a few other chips or whatever their called, that look and sound very similar to the TI. Because of the price I'm interested in the Okami series and am posting a Digi-Key reference url.
Digi-Key - 811-2179-ND (Manufacturer - OKR-T/6-W12-C)
Would one wire and connect this the same as the TI Mod?
Digi-Key - 811-2179-ND (Manufacturer - OKR-T/6-W12-C)
Would one wire and connect this the same as the TI Mod?
You can put a resistor in parallel with that pot to make it 200ohm. Optionally, if you connect the center (wiper) to one leg, that 470ohm pot would become a 235ohm pot. Maybe that would be close enough for you. That method effectively puts the fixed resistor function of the pot in parallel with the variable function of the pot.
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The Pins are the same on the two chips the okami would work wired in the same way as the Ti in the evercool circuit. There are some slight differences in the chips like the Okami has a max out of 6 volts compared to the Ti's 5.5 volts is the main one, which could be considered better if you like using high resistance atomizers. There are a few modders in here already using the Okami chips. Dont have time to dig up the threads but maybe you can find them with a search.
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The pin configuration on page 5 looks the same to me. The trim resistance looks comparable. I didn't read it in any further detail to know about the caps. It's cheaper. I wonder if it has to come from Japan and that makes me wonder how Murata was affected by the earthquake/tsunami and loss of electrical power.... I know some of their stuff isn't manufactured in Japan and some is.
Maybe you could start another thread for this one? I would be interested in following it.
Ooops, I would go with Java_az's suggestion. Sorry I'm very slow in my old age.
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I went on a whim and prayer and ordered them from Digi-Key and they arrived 2 days later...today.
I have parts coming from Jameco so I'll just vape and bite my nails until everything arrives.
Thank you guys so much for your speedy reply...what a great resource this is.
I'm not interested right now with going above 5 volts....I am satisfied with regular 510's but would like to run them a little hotter.....4.3 to 4.5 vape volts.
I have parts coming from Jameco so I'll just vape and bite my nails until everything arrives.
Thank you guys so much for your speedy reply...what a great resource this is.
I'm not interested right now with going above 5 volts....I am satisfied with regular 510's but would like to run them a little hotter.....4.3 to 4.5 vape volts.
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Hi, i too built my evercool thanks to bigblue, I've also read that he asked the TI technician if he could use the chip with no capacitors.
I too would like to know what his results were, or if anyone else tried, or knows if taking off the 1st cap will put much more stress on the ptr08060 and lead it to a premature failure. The second cap i know is just there to make the output more linear and can be bypassed.
Thanks
I too would like to know what his results were, or if anyone else tried, or knows if taking off the 1st cap will put much more stress on the ptr08060 and lead it to a premature failure. The second cap i know is just there to make the output more linear and can be bypassed.
Thanks
Big Blue Thanks For Showing me this Chip i Love it.....
this is the One my friend made when he showed me how to wire this chip
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa58/nickx786/?action=view¤t=342343-1.jpg
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa58/nickx786/?action=view¤t=324232243-1.jpg
And this is the one i made
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa58/nickx786/?action=view¤t=3232-1.jpg
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa58/nickx786/?action=view¤t=mailgooglecom-1.jpg
this is the One my friend made when he showed me how to wire this chip
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa58/nickx786/?action=view¤t=342343-1.jpg
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa58/nickx786/?action=view¤t=324232243-1.jpg
And this is the one i made
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa58/nickx786/?action=view¤t=3232-1.jpg
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa58/nickx786/?action=view¤t=mailgooglecom-1.jpg
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ok... problem here... I wired it as though it were another atty, and when I press the switch, the display flashes and I get nothing... no display, no vapor, nothing. Tried it with atty screwed in and off completely. I actually thought maybe I had a bad pot, so I pulled everything from the first evercool and just added the 2 new wires, and still nothing.
Help?
-Creighton
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