Use one TI board in 2 separate boxes??? Gonna have to have plug in connectors for the fire switch, atty connector, etc. also.....
EverCool Variable Voltage Mod
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Is the order of connections in the rows important? For example, could row B and C be switched so that caps are between the PTR8100W and the atty/battery connections?
The diagram shows a cut in column 2. Could I just cut off the leg of the pot so there is no connection in column 2, and then I don't have to cut the PCB?
If I add a voltmeter with connections to columns 4 and 3, will it read differently than if I connect it by paralleling the atty connection?
The diagram shows a cut in column 2. Could I just cut off the leg of the pot so there is no connection in column 2, and then I don't have to cut the PCB?
If I add a voltmeter with connections to columns 4 and 3, will it read differently than if I connect it by paralleling the atty connection?
Depending on the POT you use it will probably physically cover that hole anyways. You can remotely locate any of the components by extending with wire.
double check the values of the components you have and they should be wired in like this.
You want the ohms of the two red components to have a total ohm reading of 200 when the pot it turned all the way up and 0 all the way down. The 220 resistor needs to stay to limit your lowest resistance or highest voltage.
Resistance calc
Use this to calculate the values you need. Put the rating of the POT in and the total of 200 ohm and calculate for the resistor you need in parallel. Also pay attention to the drop down labels on the calculator.
So for a 47K ohm pot you need a 200 ohm resistor in parallel. A 47K and 200K give you 38K.
You can also remotely locate the POT by extending F3 and F4 with wire to the center and one outside leg of the POT. Which outside leg you use will determine if the value goes up or down with a specific direction of turn. If the POT acts the opposite of what you want just use the other outside leg instead. Or if its board mounted and seems to work backwards just flip it around. F2 is a dead connection and has no importance.
Here is a pic of one I did with all 3 resistors remotely located.
This is a 500 ohm POT and 500 ohm resistor in parallel and 200 ohm in series.
The Green wire with this would go to either E3 or F3 and the blue wire would go to E5.
If you where to measure the ohms between F3 and E5 you should get between 220 ohm and 420 ohm when you adjust the POT from one end to the other.
Thanks, this helped a lot.
You were right, my resistor was a 220k and not a 220. They sent me the wrong ones and I didn't double check
It's working now, and working great
Hey guys. I just ordered a few samples caps. I ordered TAP107K016SCS. I hope these are the right ones. what is the normal wait time for these caps? thanks a bunch
Those will work for the regulator for sure. Never ordered samples from AVX so i couldn't tell you how long it would take to get them. Not all companies are like Ti when it comes to samples, more then once i have not gotten anything from sample requests.
So here is the part I have a question about. Will this wheel potentiometer work? 10k-Ohm Wheel Potentiometer - RadioShack.com maybe a dumb question but im nearly clueless. Also I got this pot if the other wont work. 1K-Ohm 15-Turn PC-Mount Cermet Potentiometer/Trimmer - RadioShack.com Will this work?
They can be made to work but you will have to add a resistor in parallel to bring them down to ~200 ohm. Check a couple of posts back to see how to do that.
thanks so much! I think I have it now. I got the wrong board too lol. I got the one with the little copper circles around each hole on accident. Can I use solder to connect those to complete the circuit?
Not sure what you are talking about?? =] Post a link to the part. I have not made an actual evercool yet so I am not sure of the specifics with the boards.
You got perf board instead of interconnect. yes you can complete with solder, it's just a real pain in the ... and looks terrible. Better off just getting some interconnect IMO.
Gotcha... The holes are usually big enough that you can use the wire out of a stripped twist tie for small jumpers and put that between each hole and then solder. This will make it a little cleaner than big solder bridges and you wont have to do any dremel work to the board.
Never even thought of that one bstedh, good one. I was thinking of recommending wire wrapping like I used to do b4 I heard of a Breadboard, but that would be kind of hard to get into a mod.
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