It would be .00353 for Ti grade 2 according to Steam Engine and just as you said many have said their wire is grade 2.
eVic-VT mini?
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Be careful with that pocket clip attachment I see in your photo. My friend bought the same one and had temperature control issues, gave it to me, and I put it away. You are adding two more threaded connections to your resistance chain. While it might not add much resistance on a meter, tiny changes especially with low ohm builds, can effect the quality of your vape, or in really bad circumstances drop you out of TC mode altogether. So keep an eye on things, and if you encounter any TC issues, take that clip off and retest.
I downloaded the csv file and converted the resistance factors into tsr#s
@400°f 0.003806
@500°f 0.003851
I don't have ssv wire or a mini to test the tsr's
Uh oh...
Mine doesn't display either M2 or M3. It just round robins from M1 back to Power.
Yours is the first pic I've seen showing "M3", so I was working on the presumption that it used the last highlighted register before 5 clicking out of TCR Adjust mode. Posted that somewhere as well... now I have to figure out where and correct my post. Damn... been on decons for two days, memory is pretty dodgy.
So... anyone know the secret exit click sequence so I can do it properly?
ETA: Nevermind... found the extra selection "level" for the registers. All is good.
I'll just leave the post to demonstrate how loopy Sudafed makes me.
Just hold down the fire button to exit after making your changes.Uh oh...
Mine doesn't display either M2 or M3. It just round robins from M1 back to Power.
Yours is the first pic I've seen showing "M3", so I was working on the presumption that it used the last highlighted register before 5 clicking out of TCR Adjust mode. Posted that somewhere as well... now I have to figure out where and correct my post. Damn... been on decons for two days, memory is pretty dodgy.
So... anyone know the secret exit click sequence so I can do it properly?
Ah... you're right there.
I edited my post above. I was missing the mem reg selection in the main screen. Got it now.
I'm curious where you found this. I can't seem to find SS430 anywhere and don't really understand why SS316 seems so readily available when 430 seems to be better suited to temp limiting.
28 gauge Stainless Steel Wire - 430 Grade Nickel Free - 200 feet - 100% Guarantee - Unkamen Supplies
28 gauge only, though. You can also buy Ti, 304, 316 and 317L there.
A UK company. They ship to the US as long as a tracking method of shipping is chosen.
430 Grade Stainless Steel - Magnetic
Thanx for the replies guys!!
Mactavish....where is a good place to get G1 Ti??
Spirometry....with your much appreciated conversion, should I set 0385 for 500f in the mini ??
Thanx again guys!!
304 is what joyetech used for calibration and 304 is higher grade, but if 430 makes you feel better go right ahead ;-)
Be sure to give it a good cleaning first, it comes pretty dirty, heck of a deal though.
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Actually, with firmware 3.0 they have changed to using 316l for calibration on the stock setting.
The reason people opt for 430 over 304 is because 430 contains no nickel, whereas 304 is 8% nickel.
so they change a better wire for a worse one, 316... from what i know 304 and 316 are more or less the same except more carbon and other metals in 316 to make it corrosion resistant.. why would they use a Marine grade metal is beyond me. i remember the L stands for Low-something, maybe carbon?
The difference is primarily their chromium content. 316 and 317 are the most corrosion resistant, with 317 being more so than 316.
To prevent oxidation the SS must have a chromium content of 13% or higher.
Each of them have different applications based on their resistance to different types of acids as well oxidation resistance.
I've been trying SS 430 for its slightly higher TC Precision and just to see how I like working with the metal. So far, so good.
I suspect 304, 316, 317 are better than 430 in the "non corrosive / non-reactive" department, but my builds only last a day at most. Hey, I like coil-gunking juice.
For me it's not for reasons of nickel avoidance (or any metal and/or oxide avoidance), but I completely respect those who have taken that position.
I suspect 304, 316, 317 are better than 430 in the "non corrosive / non-reactive" department, but my builds only last a day at most. Hey, I like coil-gunking juice.
For me it's not for reasons of nickel avoidance (or any metal and/or oxide avoidance), but I completely respect those who have taken that position.
I thought it was OK to dry burn stainless, to clean the coils?
I can't speak to the "OK" question, only that I don't dry-burn SS coils to clean them, because I like the crisp taste of a fresh, shiny coil.
That said, I dry-burn my coils around SS mesh in my genesis atomizers for weeks. And I won't say what alloy I use in them, because it might horrify folks and derail this good thread.
it's ok to dry burn any type of wire, for our purpose the metal doesn't get hot enough to cause the metal to start producing toxic vapors. besides, you don't need to get the coil cherry red/orange to clean it. it takes very little to dry burn the crud off the coil. some people are just overly paranoid i guess. the eliquid their vaping might be more a lot more harmful that the type of coil wire they're using..
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